2008 Saturn SKY Owners Manual

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(cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident). (cid:129) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action. 4-17 (cid:129) Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:129) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:129) You might want to put winter emergency supplies in your trunk. Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer ﬂuid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a ﬂashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reﬂective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 5-50. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful. 4-18 What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even if your vehicle has the Traction Control System (TCS), slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you might want to turn the TCS off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds or if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6, Electronic Stability Control (ESC) on page 4-8, If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-22, and Winter Tires on page 5-51. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4. If the ABS is ever disabled, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can. (cid:129) Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. (cid:129) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ﬁne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers. 4-19 If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on the hazard warning ﬂashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow. (cid:129) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, ﬂoor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. 4-20 You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful. (cid:129) (cid:129) {CAUTION: Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out. Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. 4-21 Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability system. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6 and Electronic Stability Control (ESC) on page 4-8. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-28. If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-22. If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method. {CAUTION: If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment ﬁre or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-72. 4-22 Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certiﬁcation label. {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. Tire and Loading Information Label Label Example A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar) of your vehicle. With the driver’s door open, you will ﬁnd the label attached below the door latch. This label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inﬂation pressures (D). 4-23 4. The resulting ﬁgure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be ﬁve 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. Your vehicle is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer. For more information on tires and inﬂation see Tires on page 5-50 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-56. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certiﬁcation label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certiﬁcation Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle. 3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs. 4-24 Example 1 Example 2 Item Total Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = 400 lbs (181 kg) Subtract Occupant Weight @ 150 lbs (68 kg) x 1 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 250 lbs (113 kg) 150 lbs (68 kg) Item Description Total Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = 400 lbs (181 kg) Subtract Occupant Weight @ 150 lbs (68 kg) x 2 = Available Cargo Weight = 300 lbs (136 kg) 100 lbs (45 kg) 4-25 Certiﬁcation Label A vehicle speciﬁc Certiﬁcation label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door or the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar) below the driver’s door latch. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. Example 3 Item Description Total Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = 400 lbs (181 kg) Subtract Occupant Weight @ 200 lbs (91 kg) x 2 = Available Cargo Weight = 400 lbs (181 kg) 0 lbs (0 kg) Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. 4-26 {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going. {CAUTION: Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. (cid:129) Put things in the rear area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly. (cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. (cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. (cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. 4-27 Towing Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. Recreational Vehicle Towing Notice: Dolly towing or dinghy towing your vehicle may cause damage to the vehicle. Always put your vehicle on a ﬂatbed truck. Your vehicle was neither designed nor intended to be towed with any of its wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, see “Towing Your Vehicle” earlier in this section. Towing a Trailer Your vehicle is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer. 4-28 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ............................................................5-3 Accessories and Modiﬁcations ..........................5-3 California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4 California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4 Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle ..............................................5-5 Fuel ................................................................5-5 Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-6 California Fuel ...............................................5-6 Additives .......................................................5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7 Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8 Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10 Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10 Hood Release ..............................................5-11 Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12 Engine Oil ...................................................5-15 Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-19 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-21 Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-23 Manual Transmission Fluid .............................5-23 Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-23 Engine Coolant .............................................5-24 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-26 Engine Overheating .......................................5-26 Cooling System ............................................5-28 Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-33 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-34 Brakes ........................................................5-35 Battery ........................................................5-38 Jump Starting ...............................................5-39 Rear Axle .......................................................5-44 Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-44 Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-44 Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-45 Headlamps and Parking Lamps ......................5-45 Front Turn Signal, Parking and Fog Lamps ......5-46 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Sidemarker Lamps .....................................5-46 Back-Up Lamps ............................................5-47 License Plate Lamp ......................................5-48 Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-48 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-49 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Tires ..............................................................5-50 Winter Tires .................................................5-51 Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-52 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions .....................5-54 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-56 Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-58 Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-59 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-63 When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-65 Buying New Tires .........................................5-66 Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-67 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-68 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-69 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-70 Tire Chains ..................................................5-72 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-72 Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit ....................5-74 Appearance Care ............................................5-84 Interior Cleaning ...........................................5-84 Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-85 Leather .......................................................5-86 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces ........................................5-86 Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-87 Weatherstrips ...............................................5-87 Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-87 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-88 Finish Care ..................................................5-88 Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-89 Convertible Top ............................................5-89 Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels and Trim ..................................................5-90 Tires ...........................................................5-91 Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-91 Finish Damage .............................................5-91 Underbody Maintenance ................................5-91 Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-91 Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-92 Vehicle Identiﬁcation ......................................5-93 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) .................5-93 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label .....................5-93 Electrical System ............................................5-94 Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-94 Headlamp Wiring ..........................................5-94 Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-94 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-94 Floor Console Fuse Block ..............................5-95 Underhood Fuse Block ..................................5-96 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ..........................5-99 5-2 Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks. Accessories and Modiﬁcations When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-48. 5-3 Doing Your Own Service Work {CAUTION: You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless entry transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate. 5-4 If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-48. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16. Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Gasoline Octane Use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. 5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information. California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-32. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. 5-6 Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 5-7 Filling the Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. 5-8 The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. {CAUTION: Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-87. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-32. Your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC). The CHECK GAS CAP message displays if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-41 for more information. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer/ retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-32. 5-9 Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:129) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while pumping fuel. Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-10 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 2. Pull down on the rear edge of the lever to release the hood latch. 1. Locate the interior hood release lever. It is located below the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 3. Go to the side of the vehicle and pull up on the rear edge of the hood, near the windshield to open the hood. Notice: Closing the hood with the doors open may damage the hood and/or doors. Always close the doors before closing the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then, pull the hood down and close it ﬁrmly. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.4L L4 engine, this is what you will see: 5-12 A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34. B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-28. C. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-35 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-23. D. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. E. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-33. H. Remote Negative (−) Ground (Out of View). See Jump Starting on page 5-39. I. Battery (Out of View). See Battery on page 5-38. J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-39. K. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-96. 5-13 When you open the hood on the 2.0L L4 engine, this is what you will see: 5-14 A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34. B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-28. C. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-35 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-23. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. E. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-33. H. Remote Negative (−) Ground (Out of View). See Jump Starting on page 5-39. I. Battery (Out of View). See Battery on page 5-38. J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-39. K. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-96. Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down and check the level. When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is below the MIN (minimum) mark, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. 5-15 This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-99. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use For Vehicles With the 2.0L L4 Engine 2.4L L4 Engine 2.0L L4 Engine See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 5-16 Look for three things: (cid:129) GM4718M Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M, such as Mobil 1® or equivalent. Oils meeting this standard may be identiﬁed as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. If you use oils that do not have the Notice: GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:129) Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Your vehicle’s engine is ﬁlled at the factory with a synthetic oil which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. 5-17 For Vehicles With the 2.4L L4 Engine (cid:129) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:129) Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. 5-18 Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has the Engine Oil Life System, a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-41. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. 5-19 What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, the system must be reset: 1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN, with the engine off. 2. Press the information and reset buttons on the Driver Information Center (DIC) at the same time to enter the personalization menu. See DIC Vehicle Personalization on page 3-45. 3. Press the information button to scroll through the available personalization menu modes until the DIC display shows OIL-LIFE RESET. 4. Press and hold the reset button until the DIC display shows ACKNOWLEDGED. This will tell you the system has been reset. 5. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF. If the CHANGE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the reset procedure. 5-20 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter 2.4L L4 Engine See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 2.0L L4 Engine 5-21 When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter element at each scheduled Maintenance II service interval and replace the air cleaner/ﬁlter element at the ﬁrst oil change after 50,000 miles (80 000 km). If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the ﬁlter, open the clamps that hold the cover on and lift off the cover. Be sure to reinstall the cover tightly. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. 5-22 Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to a dealer/retailer and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in the Maintenance Schedule. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Be sure to use the transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Manual Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the manual transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to a dealer/retailer for service. Have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have your ﬂuid level checked by your dealer/retailer when you have your oil changed. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for the proper ﬂuid to use. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. This system does not have its own reservoir. It receives ﬂuid from the brake master cylinder reservoir. See Brakes on page 5-35 for more information. 5-23 Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the ﬁrst maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-24 What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. (cid:129) If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information. Checking Coolant See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD FILL line. Do not overﬁll the surge tank. Too much coolant can result in an overﬂow condition when the ﬂuid is hot. The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 5-25 Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. If the coolant surge tank is empty, a special ﬁll procedure is necessary. See Engine Overheating on page 5-26 for instructions on “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank.” Engine Overheating There is an engine coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-30 for more information. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 5-26 Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An engine coolant temperature warning can indicate a serious problem. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-30. If you get an engine coolant temperature warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. If you get the engine coolant temperature warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 3. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. 5-27 (cid:129) Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: 2.4 L4 Engine A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (Out of View) B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap 5-28 2.0L L4 Engine A. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (Out of View) {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at the COLD FILL line. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan are running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. 5-29 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: The engine has a speciﬁc cooling system drain and ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If the engine’s cooling system needs to be drained and re-ﬁlled, please see the dealer/retailer. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the COLD FILL line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-24 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the coolant surge tank, add coolant as follows: {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-30 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 1. Remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 5-31 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the COLD FILL line, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the COLD FILL line. 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. See your dealer/retailer, if necessary. 3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture, to the COLD FILL line. Wait about ﬁve minutes, then check to see if the level is below the COLD FILL line. If the level is below the line, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the line. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the COLD FILL line for at least ﬁve minutes. 5-32 Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. The level should be between the COLD and HOT marks. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the COLD mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Notice: Use of the incorrect ﬂuid may damage your vehicle and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5-33 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill the washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for ﬂuid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint. 5-34 (cid:129) Brakes Brake Fluid The brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system. If it is, you should have the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes and/or clutch will not work well. It is not a good idea to top off the brake/clutch ﬂuid. Adding ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If ﬂuid is added when the brake linings are worn, there will be too much ﬂuid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake/clutch hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If your vehicle has too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system. When the brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, the brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-27. 5-35 What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake or clutch hydraulic system, the brakes or clutch might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake or clutch hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake or clutch hydraulic system can damage brake or clutch hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-87. 5-36 (cid:129) Brake Wear Your vehicle has disc brakes. Front disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque speciﬁcations in Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-99. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. 5-37 Vehicle Storage {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-39 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. 5-38 Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. 5-39 If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! The remote positive (+) terminal is located under a red plastic cover on the engine compartment fuse block. Open the red plastic cover to access the terminal. 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. Do not remove fuse block cover to jump start the vehicle. The remote negative (−) ground bracket is located in the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, and is marked GND (−). 5-40 See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on the location of the positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on your vehicle. {CAUTION: {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5-41 {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) ground bracket for this purpose. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-42 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the positive (+) terminal cover to its original position. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-43 Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. 5-44 If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if oncoming drivers ﬂash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If the headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommended that you take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer for service. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-48. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer. To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11 for more information. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. Headlamps and Parking Lamps A. High-beam Headlamp B. Low-beam Headlamp C. Parking Lamp 2. Remove the bulb access cover from the bulb (high or low-beam only) you need to change. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it from the headlamp assembly. 4. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb socket. 5. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old bulb from the socket. 6. Install a new bulb. 7. Reverse Steps 2 through 5 to reinstall. 5-45 Front Turn Signal, Parking and Fog Lamps A. Front Turn Signal/ Parking Lamp B. Fog Lamp Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Sidemarker Lamps To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-8 for more information. To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11 for more information. 2. Reach underneath the front bumper and locate the bulb assembly. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull out the bulb assembly. 2. Remove the two screws, which hold the taillamp assembly, from inside the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the bulb socket from the electrical connector. 5. Install a new bulb. 6. Reverse the steps to reinstall. 3. Pull the taillamp assembly upwards and sideways to disengage it from the vehicle. 4. Remove the taillamp assembly. 5-46 5. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove. 6. Pull the bulb from the socket. 7. Install a new bulb. 8. Reverse the steps to reinstall the taillamp assembly. Back-Up Lamps To replace a bulb: 1. Reach behind, up and under the rear fascia and locate the bulb socket. 2. Turn it counterclockwise to remove from the bulb assembly. 3. Pull the bulb from the bulb socket. 4. Push in a new bulb into the bulb socket. 5. Reinstall the bulb socket by lining up the tabs in the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to secure it. The back-up lamps are located in the rear fascia. 5-47 Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Back-Up Lamp, Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn Signal Fog Lamp Front Parking Lamp (In Headlamp Assembly) Front Parking Lamp/ Turn Signal Lamp (Below Headlamp Assembly) Front and Rear Sidemarker Lamp License Plate Lamp Headlamps High-Beam Headlamp Low-Beam Headlamp 3157K H11 W5W-B50X2 5702KA 194 168 H9 H11 For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer. License Plate Lamp To replace the license plate lamp bulb: 1. Remove the two screws holding the license plate lamp assembly to the fascia. 2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward through the fascia opening. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the lamp assembly. 5-48 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. 2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C). 3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm until you hear the release lever click into place. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield. 5-49 CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:129) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-56. (cid:129) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner Manual. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:129) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much ﬂexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-23. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-50 If your vehicle has low-proﬁle tires, Low-Proﬁle Tires If your vehicle has P245/45R18 size tires, they are classiﬁed as low-proﬁle tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-proﬁle performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard proﬁle tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inﬂation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards. Winter Tires If your vehicle has P245/45R18 size tires, they are classiﬁed as low-proﬁle performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. The low-proﬁle performance tires may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. Winter tires, in general, are designed for increased traction on snow and ice covered roads. With winter tires, there may be decreased dry road traction, increased road noise, and shorter tire tread life. After switching to winter tires, be alert for changes in

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2008 Saturn SKY Owners Manual