axle sets.
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Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear.
Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
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Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. If the battery has a very low charge or is dead, you might not be able to remove the ignition key from the ignition switch or shift out of PARK (P). See Shifting Out of PARK (P) on page 2-35.
Vehicle Storage
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-46 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.
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Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or
(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to
ignite.
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
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Ignoring these steps could result in costly
Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.
If you leave your radio or other accessories
Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!
4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not use your vehicle’s battery for jump starting. It has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal, located on the underhood fuse block, for that purpose.
If your vehicle has one of the 3.8L V6 engines, to uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, press the tab at the bottom of the fuse block and lift the cover up.
3.8L V6 Engine
If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine, to uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, remove the fuse block cover.
5.3L V8 Engine
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Always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
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5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−), or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (–) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at
least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.
If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
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If the jumper cables are connected or
Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its
original position.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote
Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
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Headlamp Aiming The visual optical headlamp aiming system has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, If the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure.
The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are
25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall.
(cid:127) The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall. (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular
to the wall.
(cid:127) The vehicle should not have any snow, ice, or
mud on it.
(cid:127) The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.
(cid:127) The vehicle should be normally loaded with a
full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver’s seat.
(cid:127) Tires should be properly inflated.
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Headlamp aiming is done with the low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. To adjust the vertical aim, do the following:
4. At the wall measure from the ground upward (A) to
the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.
5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the
width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4.
6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.
Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.
1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11
for more information. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam lamp.
2. Locate the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam
headlamp.
3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim
dot on the lamp. Record the distance.
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Driver’s Side shown
7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood, near the headlamps. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The adjustment screws can be turned with a 6 mm hex key bit socket or a 6 mm hex key.
8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam.
9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is
positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim.
10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite
headlamp.
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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-60. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps To replace a headlamp or sidemarker bulb:
A. High-Beam Headlamp
B. Low-Beam Headlamp
C. Sidemarker Lamp
1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
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2. Locate the metal retaining clip. Remove the bolt. 3. Pull up half-way on the metal retaining clip while pushing rearward on the headlamp. Align the square cut-out on the retaining clip with the notch on the headlamp.
4. Pull the headlamp assembly straight out from the
vehicle. Moving the headlamp up and down slightly may help with its removal.
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6. Pull the old bulb from the socket. 7. Place the new bulb into the socket. 8. Turn the bulb socket ring one-quarter turn clockwise
to reinstall it back into the headlamp assembly.
9. Carefully reinstall the headlamp assembly. 10. Push down on the metal retaining clip while pushing
rearward on the headlamp, making sure the headlamp assembly is secure.
11. Reinstall the bolt and tighten to secure.
A. High-Beam Headlamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. Sidemarker Lamp
5. Turn the bulb socket ring one-quarter of a turn
counterclockwise to remove it from the headlamp assembly.
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Front Turn Signal, Parking and Fog Lamps The front turn signal, parking, and fog lamps, if the vehicle has them, are located below the headlamp assembly.
2. Locate the front turn
signal/parking lamp (all models) and fog lamp bulbs (if equipped), which are located below the headlamp assembly.
A. Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp B. Fog Lamp (If Equipped) To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Follow Steps 1 through 4 of the headlamp
replacement procedure. See Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps on page 5-54 for more information.
The arrow indicates which is the turn signal/parking lamp bulb. The fog lamp bulb is below it, if your vehicle has this bulb. If you need to have fog lamp bulb replaced, see your dealer/retailer for service.
3. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn
counterclockwise to remove it from its assembly.
4. Pull the old bulb from the socket and replace it with
a new one.
5. Turn the bulb socket a quarter turn clockwise to
reinstall it.
6. Reinstall the headlamp assembly. 7. Push down on the metal retaining clip while pushing
rearward on the headlamp, making sure the headlamp assembly is secure.
8. Reinstall the bolt and tighten to secure.
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6. Remove the taillamp assembly by pulling it out from the vehicle.
7. Turn the appropriate
lamp socket a quarter turn counterclockwise and remove it.
Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps
A. Taillamp B. Taillamps, Turn Signal
and Stoplamps
1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-14 for more
information.
2. Remove the convenience net, if equipped, by
removing the net hook attachments.
3. Remove the plastic cap from the trunk trim. 4. Pull the trunk trim and carpet away from the back of
the trunk.
5. Remove the bottom bolt and two nuts.
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8. Remove the old bulb.
9. Replace with a new bulb into the socket and turn
the lamp socket clockwise to install it.
10. Reinstall the taillamp assembly by reversing
Steps 2 through 5.
Back-Up Lamps The back-up lamps are located on the trunk lid.
To replace the back-up lamp bulb(s): 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-14 for more
information.
2. Turn the appropriate lamp socket a quarter turn
counterclockwise and remove it.
3. Remove the old bulb. 4. Put the new bulb into the lamp socket. 5. Turn the bulb a quarter turn clockwise to reinstall it.
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License Plate Lamp
To replace one of these bulbs:
1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-14
Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamps
Back-Up Lamp
Front Parking/Turn Signal Lamp
Front Sidemarker and License Plate Lamp Headlamps
High-Beam Halogen Low-Beam Halogen
Bulb Number
3157
3757 NAK* or
5702 KA**
194
9005
9006
3057
Stop/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamps * Base Models with the Optional Fog Lamps ** For Lamps Not Equipped with the Fog Function and GXP Models
For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.
2. Turn the appropriate lamp socket a quarter turn
counterclockwise and remove it.
3. Remove the old bulb. 4. Put the new bulb into the lamp socket. 5. Turn the bulb a quarter turn clockwise to reinstall it.
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Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. Here is how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away from
the windshield.
Windshield Replacement
If your vehicle is equipped with the Head-Up Display
(HUD) system, keep in mind that your windshield is part
of the HUD system. If you ever have to get your
windshield replaced, be sure to get one that is designed
for HUD or your HUD image may look blurred or out
of focus.
Windshield Wiper Blade
Replacement
Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear
or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information on wiper blade inspection.
2. While holding the wiper arm, pull the clip up from
the blade connecting point, and pull the blade assembly down toward the windshield to remove it from the wiper arm.
3. Install the new wiper blade onto the wiper arm and
snap the clip into place.
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CAUTION:
(Continued)
(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same
danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69.
(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely
to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.
Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details.
{CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
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Low-Profile Performance Tire (GXP) If your vehicle has P255/45R18 size tires on the front wheels and P225/50R18 size tires on the rear wheels, they are classified as low-profile performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-profile performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.
If your vehicle has low-profile tires,
Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example
(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
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(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-80. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.
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Compact Spare Tire Example
(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-109 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-85.
(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69. (F) Tire Size : A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.
(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.
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(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and Definitions
Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
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Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.
GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
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Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.
Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.
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Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-77. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-80. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.
Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards
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A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-109.
How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
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Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability.
Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-72 for additional information.
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Tire Pressure Monitor Operation The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.
When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light, located in the instrument panel cluster.
Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,
including interference that may cause undesired operation.
The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,
including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.
Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.
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At the same time a message to check the pressure in a specific tire appears on the Driver Information center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. Using the DIC buttons, tire pressure readings can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays (Uplevel DIC with Trip Computer) on page 3-55 or DIC Operation and Displays (Base Level DIC) on page 3-62 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-67. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure.
A tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69. Your vehicle’s TPMS system can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-75 and Tires on page 5-62. Your vehicle, when new, may have included a factory-installed Tire Inflator Kit. This kit uses a GM approved liquid tire sealant. See Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit (GXP) on page 5-86. Notice: Using non-approved tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. TPMS sensor damage caused by using an incorrect tire sealant is not covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use the GM approved tire sealant available through your dealer/retailer.
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TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: (cid:127) One of the road tires has been replaced with the
spare tire and wheel. The spare, if your vehicle has one, does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor.
(cid:127) The TPMS sensor matching process was started but
not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.
(cid:127) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/retailer for service.
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(cid:127) Replacement tires or wheels do not match your
vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tire and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-78.
(cid:127) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction.
If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on. TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel positions, in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer for service. The TPMS sensors may also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key.
You have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you need to start over. The TPMS matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the
engine off.
3. Press the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter’s
LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time for approximately five seconds. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode.
4. Start with the driver side front tire. 5. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve stem.
Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for 10 seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds to sound, confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position.
6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire, and repeat
the procedure in Step 5.
7. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire, and repeat
the procedure in Step 5.
8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5. The horn sounds two times to indicate the sensor identification code has been matched to the driver side rear tire, and the TPMS sensor matching process is no longer active.
9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. 10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure
level as indicated on the tire and loading information label.
11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.
Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect your vehicle’s tires, including the spare tire, for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-77 for more information. Tire rotation is not recommended if your vehicle is a GXP model equipped with P255/45R18 size tires on the front wheels and P225/50R18 size tires on the rear wheels. Different tire sizes front to rear should not be rotated. Tire rotation is recommended if the original equipment tires installed on your vehicle are of the same size and type on all four tire/wheel positions. Original equipment tires of the same size and type should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
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The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve
a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will
ensure that your vehicle continues to perform most
like it did when the tires were new.
Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your
vehicle’s tires as soon as possible and check the
wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires
or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on
page 5-77 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-82
for more information.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label, and reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-71 for additional information. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-128.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-96.
Rotation Pattern for Non-GXP Tires Only
The correct rotation pattern shown here is only for non-GXP tires. Do not include a compact spare tire, if your vehicle has one, in the vehicle’s tire rotation.
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When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions influence when you need new tires.
One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
You need new tires if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric. (cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that
cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information.
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Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall near the tire size. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC Spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-63 for additional information.
GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of your vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-75 for information on proper tire rotation.
{CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle), brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle) may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type tires on all wheels. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, it is all right to drive your vehicle with the compact spare temporarily. It was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-109.
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{CAUTION:
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires.
Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system could give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC Spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-71. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.
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Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.
{CAUTION:
If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.
See Buying New Tires on page 5-78 and Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for additional information.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis.
Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, or Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, and TPMS sensors for your vehicle.
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Used Replacement Wheels
{CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.
{CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.
Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-96 for more information.
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Tire Chains
{CAUTION:
If your vehicle has P225/55R17, P255/45R18 or P225/50R18 size tires, do not use tire chains, there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
CAUTION:
(Continued)
To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.
If your vehicle does not have P225/55R17,
Notice: P255/45R18 or P225/50R18 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class S-type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.
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If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. See Tires on page 5-62. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, and your vehicle has a spare tire, see Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-96. This information shows you how to use your vehicle’s tire changing equipment and how to change a flat tire safely.
{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.
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If a Tire Goes Flat (GXP) GXP models have no spare tire, no tire changing equipment, and no place for storing a spare or flat tire. If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place and stopping. Then do this: 1. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. See Hazard
Warning Flashers on page 3-6.
2. Park your vehicle. Set the parking brake firmly and
put the shift lever in PARK (P). See Shifting Into PARK (P) on page 2-34 for additional information.
3. Turn off the engine. 4. Inspect the flat tire. If the tire has been separated from the wheel or has damaged sidewalls or large tears that allow rapid air loss, call a tire repair facility. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If the flat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the tire inflator kit may be used to temporarily repair the damaged tire. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant to seal small punctures in the tread area of the tire. The flat tire is then inflated to at least 30 psi (207 kPa) and driven to evenly distribute the tire sealant. The tire pressure is checked after driving for a maximum of five miles (8.0 km) to see if the slow leak has been stopped. If the tire pressure is 19 psi (131 kPa) or more, inflate the tire up to the standard operating
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If the tire pressure has dropped below
pressure as shown on the tire and loading information
label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center-pillar
below the driver’s door latch. See Inflation - Tire Pressure
on page 5-69.
Notice:
19 psi (131 kPa), the vehicle should not be driven.
Damage to the tire may be severe and the sealant
will not be effective. Contact Roadside Assistance,
see Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6.
You should have the damaged tire repaired as soon as
possible. The tire sealant is a temporary repair only.
If the tire has been filled with tire sealant, take the tire to
a GM dealer/retailer for inspection and repair. See
Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit (GXP) on page 5-86
for additional information.
Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit (GXP) Your vehicle may have a tire inflator kit. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant and air at the same time to seal small punctures in the tread area of the tire. Be sure to read and follow all the tire inflator kit instructions.
The kit includes:
If the flat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the tire inflator kit may be used to temporarily repair the damaged tire. After temporarily repairing a tire using the tire inflator kit, it is recommended to take your vehicle to your dealer/retailer within 100 miles (161 kilometers) of driving to have the tire inspected and repaired. If the sealant is not removed from the tire within a 100 miles (161 kilometers) of driving, it is more likely that the tire and tire pressure monitoring sensor may get damaged and have to be replaced.
A. Air Compressor B. Tire Sealant Canister C. Air Compressor Accessory Plug
D. On/Off Switch
E. Air Pressure Gage F. Air Compressor
Inflator Hose
G. Sealant Filling Hose
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Accessing the Tire Inflator Kit To access the tire inflator kit: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-14 for more
information.
2. Locate the tire inflator kit by lifting up the carpet.
3. Remove the inflator kit
cover by turning the center nut counterclockwise.
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4. Remove the inflator kit by pulling it straight out of
the foam container.
Tire Sealant The kit contains a liquid sealant that when injected into a flat tire, may temporarily repair nail holes or cuts in the tread area of the tire. The tire sealant cannot repair tire damage caused while driving on a flat tire or a tire that has had a “blow out” or a tire that has punctures in the sidewall areas. The tire sealant solution is to be used for a single tire and can only be used once. Check the tire sealant expiration date on the sealant canister. The sealant may not be as effective beyond the expiration date. If needed, see your dealer/retailer for a replacement canister. After temporarily repairing a tire using the tire sealant, take your vehicle to your dealer/retailer to have the tire inspected and repaired.
Using the Tire Inflator Kit To use the tire inflator kit: 1. Place the inflator kit on the ground and unwrap the
sealant filling hose from the compressor.
2. Remove the air compressor accessory plug from
the unit. To do this, pull the top portion of the wrapped cord out first, then the bottom, then unsnap the plug. Do not insert the plug into an accessory outlet yet.
3. Remove the valve stem cap from the flat tire by
turning it counterclockwise. If an object, such as a nail, has penetrated the tire, do not remove it.
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{CAUTION:
Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See Engine Exhaust on page 2-36.
6. Start the vehicle. See Starting the Engine on
page 2-25 for more information. The vehicle must be running while using the air compressor.
{CAUTION:
Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate the tire to its recommended pressure. Do not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).
7. Move the inflator kit switch to the I (on) position. The inflator kit will force sealant and air into the tire. Sealant may leak from the puncture hole until the vehicle is driven and the hole has sealed.
4. Attach the sealant filling hose (A) onto the tire valve
stem. Turn it clockwise until it is tight. Make sure the inflator kit on/off switch (B) is in the O (off) position.
5. Plug the air compressor accessory plug (C) into an
accessory power outlet in the vehicle. See Accessory Power Outlet(s) on page 3-26 for more information.
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10. Move the inflator kit switch to the O (off) position
once the correct tire pressure is obtained.
11. Turn off the engine. 12. Unplug the air compressor accessory plug from the
accessory power outlet in the vehicle.
13. Disconnect the sealant filling hose from the tire valve stem, by turning it counterclockwise, and replace the tire valve stem cap. Be careful when handling the tire inflator components as they may be hot after usage.
14. Wrap the sealant filling hose around the air
compressor channel to stow it in its original location.
8. Make sure there is a proper connection between the tire valve stem and the sealant filling hose by looking at the air pressure gage. If there is not a pressure reading while the compressor is running, the connection between the inflator kit and the tire is bad. Check the attachment between the sealant filling hose and the tire valve stem.
9. Inflate the tire up to the recommended inflation
pressure, found on the Tire and Loading Information label located on the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar) below the vehicle’s door latch, using the air pressure gage on the top of the unit as a guide. The pressure gage reading is slightly high while the compressor is on. Turn the compressor off to get an accurate pressure reading.
If the recommended pressure cannot be
Notice: reached after 15 minutes, the vehicle should not be driven. The tire is too severely damaged and cannot be inflated or sealed with the tire sealant and compressor kit. Remove the air compressor accessory plug from the accessory power outlet and unscrew the sealant/air hose from the tire valve or tire pressure monitoring sensor valve. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6.
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15. Stow the air compressor accessory plug back in the air compressor. To do this, wrap the air compressor accessory plug, snap in the plug, and then push in the bottom and then the top of the wrapped air compressor accessory plug.
16. If the flat tire was able
to inflate to the recommended inflation pressure, remove the maximum speed label from the sealant canister.
Place it in a highly visible location such as the inside of the upper left corner of the windshield or to the face of the radio/clock. The maximum speed label reminds you to drive cautiously and not to exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) until you have the damaged tire inspected and repaired.
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{CAUTION:
Storing the tire sealant and compressor kit or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store the tire sealant and compressor kit in the proper place.
17. Return the equipment to the proper storage location
in the trunk of your vehicle.
18. Immediately drive the vehicle 5 miles (8 km) to
distribute the sealant evenly in the tire. Stop at a safe location and check the tire pressure. Refer to Steps 1 through 8 under “Using the Air Compressor without Sealant” next in this section. If the tire pressure has fallen more than 10 psi (68 kPa) below the recommended inflation pressure, stop driving the vehicle. The tire is too damaged for the sealant to work. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If the tire pressure has not dropped more than 10 psi (68 kPa) from the recommended inflation pressure, you can inflate the tire back up to the recommended inflation pressure.
19. Dispose of the sealant canister at your
dealer/retailer or in accordance with your local state codes and practices. After using the sealant canister, replace it with a new canister from your dealer/retailer.
20. After temporarily repairing a tire with the emergency
flat tire repair kit, take your vehicle to your dealer/retailer to have the tire inspected and repaired.
Using the Air Compressor without Sealant To use the air compressor by itself to inflate a tire: 1. Remove the air compressor accessory plug from
the air compressor.
2. Unlock the air compressor hose from the sealant
canister by pulling up on the lever.
3. Pull the air compressor inflator hose from the
sealant canister.
4. Push the air compressor inflator hose onto the tire
valve stem and push the lever down to secure in place.
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5. Plug the air compressor accessory plug into an
accessory power outlet in the vehicle. See Accessory Power Outlet(s) on page 3-26 for more information.
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See Engine Exhaust on page 2-36.
6. Start the vehicle. See Starting the Engine on
page 2-25 for more information. The vehicle must be running while using the air compressor.
Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate the tire to its recommended pressure. Do not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).
7. Move the inflator kit switch to the I (on) position. 8. Make sure there is a proper connection between the
tire valve stem and the air compressor hose by looking at the air pressure gage. If there is not a pressure reading while the compressor is running, the connection between the inflator kit and the tire is bad. Check the attachment between the air compressor hose and the tire valve stem.
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9. Inflate the tire up to the recommended inflation pressure using the air pressure gage on the top of the unit as a guide.
10. Turn off the air compressor by moving the switch to
the O (off) position.
Removal and Installation of the Sealant Canister To remove the sealant canister:
{CAUTION:
Storing the tire sealant and compressor kit or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store the tire sealant and compressor kit in the proper place.
11. Disconnect the compressor inflator hose and wrap
the hose in the bottom of the inflator kit.
12. Place the equipment in the original location in the
trunk of your vehicle.
1. Unlock the air compressor inflator hose from the
sealant canister by pulling the lever up.
2. Disconnect the air compressor inflator hose from
the sealant canister.
3. Unwrap the sealant filling hose from the
compressor.
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To install a new sealant canister: 1. Align the sealant filling hose with the slot in the air
compressor.
2. Push the sealant canister down and turn it
clockwise.
3. Wrap the sealant filling hose around the air
compressor channel to stow it in its original location.
4. Push the air compressor inflator hose onto the sealant canister inlet and push the lever down.
Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your vehicle’s hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6 for more information.
4. Turn the sealant canister so the inflator filling hose
is aligned with the slot in the compressor.
5. Lift the sealant canister from the air compressor
and replace with a new sealant canister. See your dealer/retailer for more information.
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{CAUTION:
Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart
while the vehicle is raised.
4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the
vehicle.
To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.
When your vehicle has a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.
The following information tells you how to use the jack and change a tire.
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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment needed to change a tire is located in the trunk. 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-14 for more
information.
2. Remove the convenience net, if equipped, by
removing the net hook attachments.
3. Lift up the carpet.
4. Turn the center nut on the compact spare tire cover counterclockwise to remove it.
5. Remove the cover. 6. Remove the compact spare tire. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-109 for more information.
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7. Turn the nut holding the jack counterclockwise and
remove it. Then remove the jack and wrench.
8. The tools you will be using include the jack (A), extension and protector/guide (B) and the wheel wrench (C).
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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire Your vehicle may have aluminum wheels. If so, you will see exposed stainless steel wheel nuts. Use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Do not remove them yet. Or, your vehicle may have steel wheel covers.
To remove the steel wheel covers and wheel nut caps, loosen the plastic nut caps with the wheel wrench in a counterclockwise direction. If needed, you can finish loosening them with your fingers. The plastic nut caps will not come off. Use the flat end of the wheel wrench and pry along the edge of the cover until it comes off. The edge of the wheel cover could be sharp, so do not try to remove it with your bare hands. Do not drop the cover or lay it face down, as it could become scratched or damaged. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until the flat tire is repaired or replaced.
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Once you have removed the wheel cover, use the following procedure to remove the flat tire and install the spare tire. 1. It is recommended that you do a safety check before preceding. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-96 for more information.
2. Set the park brake
firmly.
3. Turn the wheel wrench
once on each wheel nut to loosen them. Do not remove them yet.
4. Find the jacking location located on the underside of the rocker trim using the diagram. For jacking at the vehicle’s front location, put the jack lift head (C) about 6 inches (15 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel opening (B). Line up the jack with the arrow (A) as shown.
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{CAUTION:
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.
{CAUTION:
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.
For jacking at the vehicle’s rear location, put the jack lift head (B) about 9 inches (23 cm) from the front edge of the rear wheel opening (C). Line up the jack with the arrow (A) as shown.
5. Put the compact spare tire near you.
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{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.
6. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle
clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the compact spare tire to attach to the vehicle.
7. Remove all wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.
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{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel or other parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose and eventually the wheel could come off and cause a crash. Always remove all rust and dirt from wheels and other parts.
8. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.
9. Install the compact spare tire.
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{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. Because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash.
10. Reinstall the wheel
nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.
11. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
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12. Tighten the wheel nuts
firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.
Notice: Wheel covers will not fit on your vehicle’s compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, the cover or the spare could be damaged.
{CAUTION:
Incorrect or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-128 for wheel nut torque specification.
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead
Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-128 for the wheel nut torque specification.
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Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools
{CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.
After the compact spare tire is put on the vehicle, store the flat tire in the trunk. Use the following procedure to secure it in the trunk. When storing a full-size tire, use the extension and protector/guide, located in the foam holder, to help avoid wheel surface damage.
To store a full-size tire: 1. Install the tools in their original location in the trunk
area and secure.
2. Place the tire in the trunk with the valve stem facing
down, and the protector/guide placed through a wheel bolt hole.