2009 Pontiac G6 Owners Manual

1. Pull the handle with

this symbol on it. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver side of the vehicle.

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push the

secondary hood release lever to the right.

3. Lift the hood, release the hood prop rod from its

retainer, and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood marked with an arrow.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then let the hood down and close it firmly.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.4L L4 engine, this is what you see:

5-14

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (3.5 L V6 Engine) on

page 5-26 or Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (All Other Engines) on page 5-27.

B. Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on

page 5-32.

C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-21.

D. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking

Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-21.

E. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Engine Coolant

on page 5-33.

F. Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-32. G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake

Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-42.

H. Battery on page 5-45. I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding

Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-40.

J. Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-112.

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When you open the hood on the 3.5L V6 engine, this is what you see:

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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (3.5 L V6 Engine) on

page 5-26 or Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (All Other Engines) on page 5-27.

B. Power Steering Fluid on page 5-39. C. Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on

page 5-32.

D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-21.

E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-21.

F. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Engine Coolant

on page 5-33.

G. Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-32. H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake

Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-42.

I. Battery on page 5-45. J. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on

page 5-112.

K. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding

Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-40.

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When you open the hood on the 3.6L V6 engine, this is what you see:

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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (3.5 L V6 Engine) on

page 5-26 or Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (All Other Engines) on page 5-27.

B. Power Steering Fluid on page 5-39. C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-21.

D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-21.

E. Electric Engine Cooling Fans (Out of View).

See Cooling System on page 5-32.

F. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Engine Coolant on

page 5-33.

G. Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-32.

H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”

under Brakes on page 5-42.

I. Automatic Transmission Fluid Cap/Dipstick.

See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid (2.4L L4, 3.5L and 3.6L V6
Engines) on page 5-29 or Automatic Transmission Fluid (3.9L Engine) on page 5-29.

J. Battery on page 5-45. K. Underhood Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment

Fuse Block on page 5-112.

L. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding

Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-40.

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When you open the hood on the 3.9L V6 engine, this is what you see:

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Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down and check the level.

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (3.5 L V6 Engine) on

page 5-26 or Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (All Other Engines) on page 5-27.

B. Engine Coolant Bleed Valve. C. Power Steering Fluid on page 5-39. D. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of View).

See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid (2.4L L4, 3.5L and 3.6L V6
Engines) on page 5-29 or Automatic Transmission Fluid (3.9L Engine) on page 5-29.

E. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-21.

F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-21.

G. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Engine Coolant on

page 5-33.

H. Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-32. I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake

Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-42.

J. Battery on page 5-45. K. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding

Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-40.

L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-112.

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Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.

Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.

When to Add Engine Oil

L4 Engine

V6 Engine

If the oil is below the MIN mark for the L4 engine or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick for the V6 engine, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-118.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things:

(cid:129) GM6094M

Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.

(cid:129) SAE 5W-30

SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

(cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol

Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.

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Cold Temperature Operation If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required specification, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information. Engine Oil Additives / Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system flushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.

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Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil and filter, the system must be reset. To reset the oil life system: 1. With the CHANGE OIL SOON message displayed,

press any of the three DIC buttons to clear the CHANGE OIL SOON message. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46.

2. Display OIL LIFE RESET on the DIC. 3. Press and hold the ENTER button for at least one

second. An ACKNOWLEDGED display message will appear for three seconds or until the next button is pressed. This will tell you the system has been reset. See DIC Vehicle Personalization on page 3-50.

4. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.

If the CHANGE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start the vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (3.5 L V6 Engine) When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.

How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.

3.5 L V6 Engine

1. Lift the two latches straight up. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector.

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3. Lift off the cover. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the cover and

reconnect the electrical connector.

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (All Other Engines)

{ CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can

Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.

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When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter: 1. Remove the screws that hold the cover on. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Lift off the cover.

4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the cover and

reconnect the electrical connector.

{ CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can

Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid (2.4L L4, 3.5L and 3.6L V6 Engines) It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to the dealer/retailer and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6 and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

For the 3.5L and 3.6L engines, the transmission fluid will not reach the end of the dipstick unless the transmission is at operating temperature. If you need to check the transmission fluid level, please take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer.

Automatic Transmission Fluid (3.9L Engine) When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check the automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6 and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

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How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:129) At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

(cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.

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(cid:129) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine

running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in P (Park).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in P (Park).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. The transmission fluid

dipstick handle has this symbol on it, and is located near the rear of the engine compartment.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.

2. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

3. Reinstall it back in all the way, wait three seconds,

and then pull it back out again.

4. Check both sides of the dipstick and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be within the crosshatched area.

5. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, reinstall

the dipstick back in all the way.

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How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Remove the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than a half pint (0.24 L). Do not overfill.

Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid” earlier in this section.

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, reinstall

the dipstick back in all the way.

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Cooling System The cooling system allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature.

3.6L V6 Engine shown, 2.4L L4, 3.5L, 3.9L Engines

similar

A. Engine Cooling Fans B. Engine Coolant Surge Tank C. Pressure Cap

{ CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{ CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. The coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-37.

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What to Use

{ CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

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Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture: (cid:129) Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C),

(cid:129) Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C),

outside temperature.

engine temperature.

(cid:129) Protects against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Will not damage aluminum parts. (cid:129) Helps keep the proper engine temperature. Notice: If an improper coolant mixture is used, the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13 for more information.

If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used

Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. See Engine Coolant for more information. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak in the cooling system.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank

{ CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

{ CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

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2. Keep turning the

pressure cap slowly and remove it.

3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture to the FULL COLD mark. Wait about five minutes and then check to see if the level is below the mark. If the level is below the FULL COLD mark, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the mark. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the FULL COLD mark for at least five minutes.

{ CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: 1. Remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.

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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank might be lower. If the level is lower than the FULL COLD mark, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.

5. Replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure

cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,

Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,

Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.

Engine Overheating The vehicle has an indicator to warn of engine overheating. There is an engine coolant temperature gage on the instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-37. You may decide not to lift the hood when this warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Then check to see if the engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, do not continue to run the engine and have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: If the engine catches fire while driving with no coolant, the vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-39 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

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If Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment

{ CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop the engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-39 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

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If No Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: (cid:129) Climbs a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer.

If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam: 1. Turn the air conditioning off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and

to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary.

3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral)

while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle.

If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally.

(cid:129) (cid:129) Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-21.

Power Steering Fluid

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.

If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down. Also, see ″Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode″ next in this section.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode lets the vehicle be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, there is a significant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage indicates an overheat condition exists. Driving extended distances and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.

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When to Check Power Steering Fluid Power steering fluid is used in all vehicles with V6 engines. Vehicles with the 4-cylinder engine have electric power steering and do not use power steering fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless a leak is suspected in the system or an unusual noise is heard. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on

the dipstick

The fluid level should be within the crosshatched area on the dipstick. If the fluid is at or below the ADD mark on the dipstick, add just enough fluid to bring the level within the crosshatched area. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When the vehicle needs windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If the vehicle will be operating in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

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Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer fluid reservoir is low, a LOW WASHER FLUID message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46 for more information.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the reservoir is full.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow

the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.

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(cid:129) Brakes Brake Fluid

The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down:

The brake fluid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the fluid level goes back up.

(cid:129) A fluid leak in the brake hydraulic system can also

cause a low fluid level. Have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.

Do not top off the brake fluid. Adding fluid does not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

5-42

(cid:129) { CAUTION:

{ CAUTION:

If too much brake fluid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the BRAKE FLUID message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) displays. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46. What to Add Use only new DOT-3 brake fluid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake

hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If brake fluid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-105.

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(cid:129) Brake Wear This vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal firmly.

{ CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 5-118. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.

5-44

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time the brakes are applied, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved

replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed.

Battery This vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

5-45

Vehicle Storage

{ CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-46 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This helps keep the battery from running down. See “Power Window Initialization” in Power Windows on page 2-15. Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.

Jump Starting If the vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{ CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

5-46

Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (PARK) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

If you leave the radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.

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5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

{ CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

{ CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{ CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. If the security light flashes, wait until the light stops flashing.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

5-49

If the jumper cables are connected or

Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

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Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If the headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommended that you take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer for service.

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-57. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.

Halogen Bulbs

{ CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

5-51

Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps

To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Remove the two screws that secure the headlamp

assembly.

A. Front Sidemarker B. Front Turn Signal/

Parking Lamp

C. Low-Beam Headlamp D. High-Beam Headlamp

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2. Remove the fasteners of the front facia by lifting

under them.

3. Pull the front facia back and then pull the headlamp

assembly out of the vehicle. Assistance may be needed with this step to avoid possible damage to the vehicle.

4. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the fender

to release the ball stud from the retainer in the fender bracket.

5. Remove the bulb access cover by turning it

counterclockwise.

6. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull out

the bulb assembly.

7. Disconnect the bulb socket from the wiring harness

for headlamps. For the front turn signal/parking or sidemarker bulbs, unclip the bulb from the socket.

8. Install a new bulb. 9. Turn the bulb access cover clockwise to reinstall it. 10. Push the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle

making sure to align the ball stud into its retainer.

11. Push the front fascia back into its original

location.

12. Reinstall the plastic push pins on the top of the

tire bar.

13. Reinstall the two screws that secure the

headlamp assembly.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) (Sedan) To replace a center high-mounted stoplamp (CHMSL) bulb: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-12. 2. Locate the center high-mounted stoplamp

(CHMSL) on the inside of the trunk lid.

3. Disconnect the wiring harness.

4. Remove the cover by pressing the tabs at either

end with a tool.

5. Remove the bulb by turning it counterclockwise. 6. Turn the bulb clockwise to install it. 7. Reinstall the cover and reconnect the wiring

harness.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) (Retractable Hardtop and Coupe) If your vehicle has this component and it needs replacement, it is recommended that it be replaced as a unit by your dealer/retailer.

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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps (Sedan)

4. Remove the two nuts that hold the taillamp

assembly.

5. Remove the taillamp assembly. 6. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove. 7. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 8. Push the new bulb straight in until it clicks. 9. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall. 10. Reinstall the taillamp assembly and the two nuts

that hold the taillamp assembly.

11. Reinstall the wing nuts holding the trunk trim.

A. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal B. Sidemarker Lamp C. Back-up Lamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-12. 2. Remove the convenience net. 3. Remove the wing nuts holding the trunk trim.

5-54

Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps (Coupe)

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-12. 2. Remove the convenience net.

3. Remove the two wing nuts from the trunk trim and

pull back the trunk trim to expose the hex nuts.

4. Remove the three hex nuts retaining the taillamp

assembly.

5. Pull the assembly off to the side to release it from

the rear of the vehicle.

6. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove

from the taillamp assembly.

7. Pull the bulb from the socket. 8. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 9. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall into the

taillamp assembly.

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10. Push the taillamp assembly back into the rear of

the vehicle.

11. Reinstall the three hex nuts retaining the taillamp

assembly.

12. Reinstall the trunk trim and the two wing nuts. Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps (Retractable Hardtop)

To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-12. 2. Locate the three rubber covers in the trunk trim,

near the taillamp assembly and remove them.

3. Remove the two nuts and one bolt retaining the

taillamp assembly.

4. Pull off the taillamp assembly to the side to release

it from the vehicle.

5. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove. 6. Pull the bulb from the bulb socket. 7. Push the new bulb straight in until it clicks. 8. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall. 9. Push the taillamp assembly back into place. 10. Reinstall the two nuts and one bolt retaining the

taillamp assembly.

11. Reinstall the trunk trim and three rubber covers.

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp

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License Plate Lamp To replace the license plate lamp bulb:

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Coupe and Retractable Hardtop Sedan Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) Front Parking and Turn Signal Lamp Front/Rear Sidemarker Lamp License Plate Lamp Headlamps

High-Beam Lamp Low-Beam Lamp

Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn Signal Lamp Sidemarker, Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn Signal Lamp *Coupe and Sedan only **Retractable Hardtop only ***Sedan Only

921

3057K

912***

3157KX

194
168

H9
H11

3057K*

3157K**

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.

5-57

1. Remove the license plate assembly by turning the

two screws counterclockwise.

2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward

through the fascia opening.

3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the

bulb straight out of the socket.

4. Push the new bulb in and turn it clockwise to install. 5. Replace the license plate lamp by pushing it through

the fascia opening.

6. Turn the two screws that hold the license plate

lamp clockwise to reinstall.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information on wiper blade inspection. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here is how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away from

the windshield.

2. Squeeze the grooved areas on each side of the

blade and turn the blade assembly away from the arm connector.

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3. Install the new blade onto the arm connector and make sure the grooved areas are fully set in the locked position.

For the proper type and size, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer.

{ CAUTION:

(cid:129) Poorly maintained and improperly used

tires are dangerous.

(cid:129) Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:129) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67. (cid:129) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

See High-Speed Operation on page 5-68 for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.

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Low-Profile Performance Tire If your vehicle has P225/50R18 or P225/50R17
size tires, they are classified as low-profile performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-profile performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: If the vehicle has low-profile tires, they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. The vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards. Winter Tires If your vehicle has P225/50R18 size tires, they are classified as low-profile performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered

roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. The low-profile performance tires may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. Winter tires, in general, are designed for increased traction on snow and ice covered roads. With winter tires, there may be decreased dry road traction, increased road noise and shorter tire tread life. After switching to winter tires, be alert for changes in vehicle handling and braking. See your retailer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-78
If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:129) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all

four wheel positions.

(cid:129) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load range,

and speed rating as your original equipment tires. Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.

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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

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(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-80. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

Compact Spare Tire Example

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(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-101 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-85. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67.

(F) Tire Size : A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

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Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20.

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Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

5-65

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-77. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings

are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-80. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20.

5-66

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much flexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road hazards

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-101.

5-67

High-Speed Operation

{ CAUTION:

Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Set the cold tire inflation pressure to 35 psi (241 kPa) for the front and rear tires, when operating your vehicle at high-speed conditions. When you end high-speed driving return the tires to the cold inflation pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67.

Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.)

As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale.

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Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-71
for additional information.

Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation.

The TPMS operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.

Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.

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Tire Pressure Monitor Operation This vehicle may have a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). The TPMS is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.

When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS turns on the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster.

At the same time a message to check the pressure in a specific tire appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure.

Using the DIC, tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-43 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67. Your vehicle’s TPMS system can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-76 and Tires on page 5-59. Notice: Liquid tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. Sensor damage caused by using a tire sealant is not covered by your warranty. Do not use liquid tire sealants.

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(cid:129) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/retailer for service.

(cid:129) Replacement tires or wheels do not match your

vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-78.

(cid:129) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction.

If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on.

TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: (cid:129) One of the road tires has been replaced with the spare tire. The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor. The TPMS sensor matching process was started but not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.

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(cid:129) TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel location. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel locations, in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/ wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key. You have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you need to start over.

TPMS Matching Process for Vehicles with Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the

engine off.

3. Press and hold the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter’s lock and unlock buttons, at the same time, for about five seconds to start the TPMS learn mode. The horn sounds twice indicating the TPMS receiver is ready and in learn mode.

4. Start with the driver side front tire. The driver side

front turn signal also comes on to indicate that corner’s sensor is ready to be learned.

5. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve

stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for about eight seconds. The horn chirp, can take up to 30 seconds to sound. It chirps one time and then all the turn signals flash one time to confirm the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position.

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TPMS Matching Process for Vehicles without Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the

engine off.

3. Using the Driver Information Center (DIC), press

the INFO and Set/Reset buttons at the same time for about one second. Then press and release the INFO button until the TIRE LEARN? message displays.

4. Press and hold the Set/Reset DIC button for

approximately three seconds to start the TPMS learn mode. The horn sounds twice to indicate the TPMS receiver is ready and the TIRE LEARN ON message displays. The driver side front turn signal also comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned.

5. Start with the driver side front tire.

6. The passenger side front turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side front tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.

7. The passenger side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.

8. The driver side rear turn signal comes on to

indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.

9. After hearing the single horn chirp for the driver

side rear tire, two additional horn chirps sound to indicate the tire learning process is done. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. If no tires are learned after entering the TPMS learn mode, or if communication with the receiver stops, or if the time limit has expired, turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF and start over beginning with Step 2.

10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure

level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.

11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

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6. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve stem.

Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for about eight seconds. The horn chirp, can take up to 30 seconds to sound. It chirps one time and then all the turn signals flash one time to confirm the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position.

7. The passenger side front turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side front tire and