2007 Pontiac G5 GT Owners Manual

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Dinghy Towing You may dinghy tow your vehicle from the front following these steps: To prevent the battery from draining while the vehicle is being towed, remove the following fuse from the ﬂoor console fuse block: 8 (Ignition Switch, PASS-Key® III+). See Floor Console Fuse Block on page 364 for more information. Remember to reinstall the fuse once you have reached your destination. Notice: towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle. If you exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock the steering wheel. 3. Shift an automatic transaxle to NEUTRAL (N) or a manual transaxle to NEUTRAL. 4. Release the parking brake. 255 Dolly Towing Your vehicle cannot be dolly towed, but can be dinghy towed. See “Dinghy Towing” earlier in this section. Notice: Dolly towing your vehicle may cause damage because of reduced ground clearance. Always tow your vehicle using the dinghy towing procedure listed in this section or put your vehicle on a ﬂatbed truck. Towing a Trailer (Manual Transaxle) Do not tow a trailer if your vehicle is equipped with a manual transaxle. Notice: Towing your vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from the rear. 256 Towing a Trailer (Automatic Transaxle) {CAUTION: If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with an automatic transaxle and the proper trailer towing equipment. If your vehicle is not equipped as stated previously, do not tow a trailer. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That is the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. Also, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. 257 If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:127) There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. (cid:127) Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. (cid:127) Do not tow a trailer at all during the ﬁrst 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. (cid:127) Then, during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. (cid:127) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts. 258 (cid:127) Do not tow when the outside air temperature is above 100°F (38°C). (cid:127) Do not tow more than 1,000 miles (1 600 km) per year. Three important considerations have to do with weight: (cid:127) The weight of the trailer (cid:127) The weight of the trailer tongue (cid:127) The total weight on your vehicle’s tires Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice. Also, see Customer Assistance Offices on page 397 for more information. Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers, or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 249 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity. If you are using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. 259 Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. You will ﬁnd these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 249. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:127) The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. (cid:127) Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you do not seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 123. Dirt and water can also enter the vehicle. 260 Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you will be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you will want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You will need more passing distance up ahead when you are towing a trailer. And, because the vehicle is a good deal longer, you will need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. 261 Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal ﬂasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also ﬂash, telling other drivers you are about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving on Grades Notice: Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal engine and transaxle temperatures may result and damage your vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to allow the engine and transaxle to cool. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. Pay attention to the engine coolant gage. If the indicator is in the red area, turn off the air conditioning to reduce engine load. See Engine Overheating on page 290. 262 When towing under severe conditions such as hot ambient temperatures or steep grades, your vehicle may experience more transaxle shifting. A COOLING MODE ON message may also appear in the DIC. This alerts the driver that the shifting mode is in progress and is aiding engine cooling. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 177 DIC Warnings and Messages for more information. Parking on Hills {CAUTION: You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here is how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle, or into gear for a manual transaxle. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb. 2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle or REVERSE (R) for a manual transaxle. 5. Release the regular brakes. 263 When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you: (cid:127) Start your engine. (cid:127) Shift into a gear. (cid:127) Release the parking brake. 2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you are pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 375 for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle ﬂuid (do not overﬁll), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you ﬁnd them quickly. If you are trailering, it is a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 290. 264 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ........................................................ 268 Accessories and Modiﬁcations ................... 268 California Proposition 65 Warning .............. 269 Doing Your Own Service Work .................. 269 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle .......................................... 270 Fuel ............................................................. 270 Gasoline Octane ........................................ 270 Gasoline Speciﬁcations .............................. 271 California Fuel ........................................... 271 Additives ................................................... 272 Fuels in Foreign Countries ........................ 273 Filling the Tank ......................................... 274 Filling a Portable Fuel Container ............... 276 Checking Things Under the Hood .............. 276 Hood Release ........................................... 277 Engine Compartment Overview .................. 278 Engine Oil ................................................. 279 Engine Oil Life System .............................. 282 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ............................ 284 Automatic Transaxle Fluid ......................... 286 Manual Transaxle Fluid ............................. 286 Hydraulic Clutch ........................................ 286 Engine Coolant .......................................... 287 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ............ 290 Engine Overheating ................................... 290 Cooling System ......................................... 292 Windshield Washer Fluid ........................... 297 Brakes ...................................................... 298 Battery ...................................................... 303 Jump Starting ............................................ 304 Headlamp Aiming ........................................ 309 Bulb Replacement ....................................... 312 Halogen Bulbs ........................................... 312 Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps ............. 313 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) ................................................ 315 Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps (Coupe) ................................................. 316 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps (Sedan) ......................... 316 Back-Up Lamps (Coupe) ........................... 317 License Plate Lamp ................................... 318 Replacement Bulbs ................................... 318 265 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ....... 319 Tires ............................................................ 320 Tire Sidewall Labeling ............................... 321 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions ............... 324 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure ............................. 327 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...................... 328 When It Is Time for New Tires .................. 330 Buying New Tires ...................................... 330 Different Size Tires and Wheels ................ 332 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 333 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 334 Wheel Replacement .................................. 335 Tire Chains ............................................... 336 If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 337 Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 338 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 339 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire ....................................... 344 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...... 349 Compact Spare Tire .................................. 352 Appearance Care ........................................ 353 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 353 Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 354 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces ..................................... 355 Care of Safety Belts .................................. 356 Weatherstrips ............................................ 356 Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 356 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 357 Finish Care ............................................... 357 Windshield and Wiper Blades .................... 358 Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels ......... 358 Tires ......................................................... 359 Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 359 Finish Damage .......................................... 359 Underbody Maintenance ............................ 360 Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 360 Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ............ 360 266 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Vehicle Identiﬁcation .................................. 361 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) ........... 361 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label ............... 362 Electrical System ........................................ 362 Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 362 Headlamp Wiring ....................................... 363 Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 363 Power Windows and Other Power Options .................................................. 363 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....................... 363 Floor Console Fuse Block ......................... 364 Engine Compartment Fuse Block ............... 365 Capacities and Speciﬁcations .................... 369 267 Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: Accessories and Modiﬁcations When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. 268 California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. Doing Your Own Service Work {CAUTION: You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 410. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 78. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 389. 269 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep your engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, GM recommends the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes your engine. You will ﬁnd the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 361. Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 2.2L L4 engine (VIN Code F), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code B), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You may also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration may be slightly reduced, and you may notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you may notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. 270 Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 272 for additional information. California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 168. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. 271 Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. 272 Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT.General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 273 Filling the Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. 274 The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. {CAUTION: If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 356. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 168. The CHECK GAS CAP message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 177 for more information. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to Notice: get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 168. 275 Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. (cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 276 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following. 1. Pull the interior hood release lever with this symbol on it. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push the secondary hood release lever to the left. It is located under the front center of the hood toward the driver’s side of the vehicle. 3. After you have partially lifted the hood, a gas strut will automatically take over to lift and hold the hood in the fully open position. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Lower the hood until the lifting force of the strut is reduced, then release the hood to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary. 277 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.2L L4 engine (2.4L L4 engine similar), here is what you will see: 278 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 284. B. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 279. C. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 279. D. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 298 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 286. E. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 365. F. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 304. G. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 304. H. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling System on page 292. I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 297. Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 278 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down and check the level. 279 When to Add Engine Oil See Engine Compartment Overview on page 278 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. If the oil is below the MIN (minimum) mark, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 369. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 280 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). 281 Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. 282 Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 177. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, the system must be reset as follows: 1. Turn the ignition to RUN, with the engine off. 2. Press the information and reset buttons on the DIC at the same time to enter the personalization menu. See DIC Vehicle Personalization on page 179. 3. Press the information button to scroll through the available personalization menu modes until the DIC display shows OIL-LIFE RESET. 4. Press and hold the reset button until the DIC display shows ACKNOWLEDGED. This will tell you the system has been reset. 5. Turn the key to LOCK. If the CHANGE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the reset procedure. 283 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 278 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help. 284 When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (85 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 375 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. Never use compressed air to clean the ﬁlter. To inspect or replace the ﬁlter, remove the screws that hold the cover on and lift off the cover. Be sure to reinstall the cover tightly. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre Notice: can cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. 285 Automatic Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle ﬂuid level. A transaxle ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 378, and be sure to use the transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 385. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 385. Manual Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle ﬂuid level. A transaxle ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealer and have it repaired as soon as possible. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 385 for the proper ﬂuid to use. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. This system does not have its own reservoir. It receives ﬂuid from the brake master cylinder reservoir. See Brakes on page 298 for more information. 286 Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 290. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the ﬁrst maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 287 If you use an improper coolant Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 385 for more information. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 288 Checking Coolant The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 278 for more information on location. {CAUTION: Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD FILL line. 289 Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. If the coolant surge tank is empty, a special ﬁll procedure is necessary. See Engine Overheating on page 290 for instructions on “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank.” {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated. If the pressure cap is not tightly Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 278 for more information on location. Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd an engine coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 167 for more information. 290 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. If your engine catches ﬁre because Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An engine coolant temperature warning can indicate a serious problem. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 167. If you get an engine coolant temperature warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer. If you get the engine coolant temperature warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn it off. 2. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) for automatic transmission or NEUTRAL for manual transmission, while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 291 Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: 2.2L L4 Engine shown, 2.4L L4 Engine similar A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap 3. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. 292 {CAUTION: CAUTION: (Continued) An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at the COLD FILL line. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. (Continued) CAUTION: Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 293 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a speciﬁc coolant ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the COLD FILL line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 287 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the coolant surge tank, add coolant as follows: {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 294 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. In cold weather, water can freeze and Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will let any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose. 295 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture, to the COLD FILL line. Wait about ﬁve minutes, then check to see if the level is below the COLD FILL line. If the level is below the line, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the line. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the COLD FILL line for at least ﬁve minutes. 296 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the COLD FILL line, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the COLD FILL line. 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. See your dealer, if necessary. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. 297 Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 278 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. 298 (cid:127) Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. Brakes Brake Fluid The brake master cylinder and, on manual transaxle vehicles, the clutch hydraulic system use the same reservoir. The reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 278 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system. If it is, you should have the brake and/or clutch system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes and/or clutch will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to top off the brake/clutch ﬂuid. Adding ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when the brake linings are worn, you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake/clutch hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If your vehicle has too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system. When the brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, the brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 165. 299 Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake/clutch system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake/clutch hydraulic system can damage brake/clutch system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 356. (cid:127) What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 385. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake/clutch system, the brakes/clutch may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. 300 Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and may have rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. If your vehicle has rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. 301 Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then the brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so the brakes will adjust properly. If your vehicle has rear drum brakes and the brake pedal goes down farther than normal, the rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and ﬁrmly applying the brakes a few times. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. 302 Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. Your vehicle’s battery is located in the trunk. You do not need to access the battery to jump start your vehicle. See Jump Starting on page 304. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 304 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. 303 Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. 304 Ignoring these steps could result in Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is Notice: not a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located in the trunk. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. The remote positive terminal is located under a red tethered cap on the engine compartment fuse block. Lift the cap to access the terminal. 305 The remote negative (−) ground terminal, marked GND (−), is located behind the engine coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 278 for more information on the location of the positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on your vehicle. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. 306 {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal marked GND (−). 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 307 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. 308 Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND) B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the positive (+) terminal cover to its original position. Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment However, If the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles ﬂash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall. (cid:127) The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall. (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall. (cid:127) The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud on it. (cid:127) The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. (cid:127) The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat. (cid:127) Tires should be properly inﬂated. 309 Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. The vertical headlamp aiming screws are located under the hood near the headlamps. To adjust the vertical aim on the headlamps, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 277 for more information. 2. Locate the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam headlamp. 3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low-beam headlamp. Record the distance. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm socket wrench. 310 4. At the wall measure from the ground upward (A) to the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it. 5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4. Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. Do not place directly on the headlamp. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the ﬂat surface. 7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm socket wrench. 8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam. 311 Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 318. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. 9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim. 10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite headlamp. 312 Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 277 for more information. A. Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp B. Sidemarker C. Headlamp 2. Remove the two hex bolts from the headlamp assembly. 313 3. Remove the two plastic fasteners from the fascia. 4. Pull the front fascia back. You may need someone else to assist you with Steps 3 and 4. 5. Pull the headlamp assembly up on an angle and towards the radiator to remove it. 6. Disconnect the bulb base from the wiring harness by lifting the plastic locking tab. 7. To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following: 7.1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the bulb socket. 7.2. Remove the black retainer by turning it counterclockwise. 8. Turn the bulb socket for the headlamp, front turn signal, or parking lamp counterclockwise. For the sidemarker bulb, you will need to use a tool to assist in turning the bulb socket. 9. Pull the old bulb out of the socket. 10. Install a new bulb. 11. Reinstall the bulb assembly by reversing Steps 1 through 8. When reinstalling the headlamp assembly, ﬁrst make sure that the wiring harness is in its original position. If not, the headlamp assembly will not ﬁt correctly. You will also need to line up the two tabs on the bottom of the assembly that ﬁt into two slots in the headlamp assembly bracket. 314 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To replace a CHMSL bulb, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 98 for more information. 2. Locate the CHMSL bulb assembly in the trunk lid. 3. Press the plastic tabs to release the bulb assembly. 4. Pull the bulb assembly down to access the bulbs. 5. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out. 6. Install a new bulb. 7. Align the tabs in the bulb assembly with the assembly in the trunk lid. Push the bulb assembly back into place until it snaps in. You may need to use a tool to guide the tabs into the assembly. 315 Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps (Coupe) To replace a taillamp or rear turn signal bulb, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 98 for more information. 2. Remove the screw retaining the taillamp assembly. Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps (Sedan) To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 98 for more information. 2. Remove the fastener which holds down the trunk trim. Once you have removed the trim, there will be one more fastener to remove. 3. Disconnect the wiring harness by lifting up on the tab to release and pull it straight out. 3. Remove the outer two screws from the taillamp assembly. 4. Hold and turn the bulb socket clockwise and then release it from the lamp housing. 4. Disconnect the wiring harness by lifting up on the tab to release and pull it straight out. 5. Pull the old bulb straight out of the socket. 6. Install a new bulb. 7. Reverse Steps 2 through 4 to reinstall the taillamp assembly. 5. Remove the taillamp from the quarter panel. 316 Back-Up Lamps (Coupe) To replace a back-up lamp bulb, do the following: A. Sidemarker B. Stoplamp/Turn Signal/Taillamp C. Back-up 6. Locate the bulb you need to change. 7. Remove the taillamp bulb socket from the assembly by turning it counterclockwise. 8. Pull the old bulb out of the socket. 9. Install a new bulb. 10. Reverse Steps 1 through 6 to reinstall the taillamp assembly. 1. Remove the two screws from the face of the back-up lamp. 2. Pull the lamp straight out from the fascia pocket. 3. Hold and turn the bulb socket clockwise and then release it from the lamp housing. 4. Pull the old bulb out of the socket. 5. Install a new bulb. 6. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the back-up lamp assembly. 317 License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamps Bulb Number Back-Up Lamps Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) Front Parking/Turn Signal Lamps Halogen Headlamps, High/Low-Beam License Plate Lamp and Sidemarker Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn Signal Lamps 921 912 3157KX 9007 LL 194 3057KX For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. 1. Remove the two screws holding each of the license plate lamps. 2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp toward you through the opening. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Install the new bulb.

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2007 Pontiac G5 GT Owners Manual