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This mixture: (cid:129) Gives freezing protection down
to −34°F (−37°C), outside temperature.
(cid:129) Gives boiling protection up to
265°F (129°C), engine temperature.
(cid:129) Protects against rust and
corrosion.
(cid:129) Will not damage aluminum parts. (cid:129) Helps keep the proper engine
temperature.
If an improper coolant
Notice: mixture is used, the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: and/or additives are used in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information.
If extra inhibitors
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Service and Appearance Care
Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level.
The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it. It is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for more information on location. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything
else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD, or a little higher. When the engine is warm, the level could be above the FULL COLD level. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, there could be a leak in the cooling system.
How to Add Coolant to the Recovery Tank
{ CAUTION
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start the vehicle. If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.
Service and Appearance Care
5-25
How to Add Coolant to the Radiator
{ CAUTION
An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{ CAUTION Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly.
(Continued)
CAUTION (Continued)
They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
If coolant is needed, add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done.
1. Remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.
2. Keep turning the cap to
remove it.
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Service and Appearance Care
3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.
5. Reinstall the cap on the coolant
recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off.
4. Fill the coolant recovery tank to
the FULL COLD mark.
6. Start the engine and let it run
until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck might be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Notice: tightly installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.
If the pressure cap is not
Service and Appearance Care
5-27
The air conditioning might stop working if the engine is too hot. This is normal and helps cool the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: because of being driven with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty.
If the engine catches fire
Engine Overheating The vehicle has an indicator to warn of engine overheating. A coolant temperature gage is displayed on the instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-29. You may decide not to lift the hood when this warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Service on page 7-6. If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Then check to see if the engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, do not continue to run the engine and have the vehicle serviced.
If Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment { CAUTION
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
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Service and Appearance Care
If No Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: (cid:129) Climbs a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under Towing a Trailer on page 4-42.
If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam: 1. Turn the air conditioning off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest
temperature and to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle
in N (Neutral) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle.
If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down.
Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
(cid:129) (cid:129) Service and Appearance Care
5-29
What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage the vehicle and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid 1. Turn the key off and let the
engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the
reservoir clean.
3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the
dipstick with a clean rag.
4. Replace the cap and completely
tighten it.
5. Then remove the cap again and
look at the fluid level on the dipstick.
The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range.
Power Steering Fluid
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless a leak in the system is suspected or an unusual noise is heard. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
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Service and Appearance Care
Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When windshield washer fluid is needed, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If operating the vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.
Adding Washer Fluid
Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated
washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
(cid:129) Do not mix water with
ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for reservoir location.
(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant
(antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.
Brakes Brake Fluid
The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down:
The brake fluid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the fluid level goes back up.
(cid:129) A fluid leak in the brake hydraulic system can also cause a low fluid level. Have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.
(cid:129) (cid:129) Service and Appearance Care
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Do not top off the brake fluid. Adding fluid does not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{ CAUTION
If too much brake fluid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check the brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
Checking Brake Fluid Check brake fluid by looking at the brake fluid reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.
What to Add Use only new DOT-3 brake fluid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
{ CAUTION
With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If brake fluid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-86.
(cid:129) 5-32
Service and Appearance Care
Brake Wear This vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal firmly.
{ CAUTION
The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced.
Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 5-96. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.
Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required.
Brake Adjustment Every brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear.
Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts.
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When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed.
Battery This vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
Vehicle Storage
{ CAUTION
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-34 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This helps keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.
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Service and Appearance Care
Jump Starting If the vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{ CAUTION
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:129) They contain acid that can
burn you.
(cid:129) They contain gas that can
explode or ignite.
(cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
Ignoring these steps
Notice: could result in costly damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle.
It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system.
If the other vehicle’s
Notice: system is not a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.
2. Get the vehicles close enough so
the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in Neutral before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in Neutral.
If you leave the radio or
Notice: other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both
vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!
Service and Appearance Care
5-35
4. Open the hoods and locate
the batteries on both vehicles. You will use the positive (+) battery terminal and the remote negative (−) jump starting terminal to jump start your vehicle. To access the positive (+) battery terminal, open the terminal cover. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for more information on the terminal locations.
{ CAUTION
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light.
(Continued)
CAUTION (Continued)
Be sure the batteries have enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery (or batteries) installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
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Service and Appearance Care
{ CAUTION
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
6. Connect the red positive (+)
cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch
metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black
negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the
negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal, marked GND (Ground), for this purpose.
Service and Appearance Care
5-37
10. Now start the vehicle with the
good battery and run the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had
the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
If the jumper cables are
Notice: connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine
Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote
Positive (+) Terminal
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−)
cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−)
cable from the vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+)
cable from the other vehicle.
5. Return the positive (+) battery
terminal cover to its original position.
Four-Wheel Drive It is recommended that the four-wheel drive transfer case fluid be checked and filled by the dealer/retailer.
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Service and Appearance Care
Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless a leak is suspected or an unusual noise is heard. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.
How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.
A. Rear Axle B. Filler Plug
The proper level for the rear axle fluid is 0 to 3/8 inch (0 mm to 10 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle.
What to Use See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 to determine which kind of lubricant to use.
Service and Appearance Care
5-39
Front Axle It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid unless a leak is suspected or an unusual noise is heard. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. It is recommended that the front axle fluid be checked and filled by your dealer/retailer.
Headlamp Aiming The vehicle may have a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described.
The vehicle should be: (cid:129) Placed so the headlamps are
25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface. (cid:129) On a level surface which is level
all the way to a wall.
(cid:129) Placed so it is at a right angle to
the wall or other flat surface.
(cid:129) Clear of any snow, ice, or
mud on it. Fully assembled, the tires properly inflated, and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed.
(cid:129) Normally loaded with the spare tire in its original location and a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver seat.
(cid:129) 5-40
Service and Appearance Care
To adjust the vertical aim: 1. Open the hood. See Hood
Release on page 5-9.
This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the wall.
2. Record the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the headlamp.
3. At a wall, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2 and mark it. 4. Draw or tape a horizontal line the
width of the vehicle at the wall where it was marked it Step 4.
Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 5. Turn on the headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed.
Passenger Side Shown 6. Locate the vertical headlamp
aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with an E8 Torx® socket or T15 Torx® screwdriver.
Service and Appearance Care
5-41
Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-43. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.
Halogen Bulbs
{ CAUTION
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
Headlamps To replace a headlamp bulb: 1. Open the hood. See Hood
Release on page 5-9 for more information.
2. Turn the bulb socket
counterclockwise to remove it from the headlamp assembly and pull it straight out.
3. Unplug the electrical connector by pushing the release tab and pulling the bulb socket out.
4. Replace with a new bulb socket. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to
reinstall.
7. Turn the vertical aiming screw
until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the beam. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.
8. Repeat Steps 7 and 8 for the
opposite headlamp.
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Service and Appearance Care
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps (H3)
To replace one of these bulbs in the taillamp assembly: 1. Open the swing-gate.
See Swing-gate on page 2-9.
5. Pull the old bulb to release it
from the socket.
6. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to
reinstall.
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps (H3T)
A. Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn
Signal Lamp
B. Back-up Lamp
Passenger Side Shown
2. Remove the two screws from the
taillamp assembly.
3. Pull the taillamp assembly away
from the vehicle.
4. Turn the bulb socket
counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp assembly.
A. Stoplamp and Taillamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp
Service and Appearance Care
5-43
To replace one of these bulbs in the taillamp assembly: 1. Open the tailgate. See Tailgate
on page 2-7.
6. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall in the taillamp assembly.
4. Install the new bulb into the
socket.
7. Reinstall the taillamp assembly making sure to line up the pins with the vehicle.
8. Reinstall the two screws.
5. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to
reinstall.
Replacement Bulbs
License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs:
1. Remove the two screws holding
the license plate lamp.
2. Pull the license plate lamp away
from the fascia.
3. Turn the bulb socket
counterclockwise and pull the bulb straight out of the license plate lamp assembly.
Exterior Lamp
Back-up Lamp (H3T) Back-up (H3), Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn Signal Lamp License Plate Lamp Low-Beam and High-Beam Headlamp
Bulb
Number W16W
3157K
194
H13
For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.
2. Remove the two screws from the
taillamp assembly.
3. Pull the taillamp assembly away
from the vehicle.
4. Turn the bulb socket
counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp assembly. 5. Pull the old bulb to release it
from the socket.
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Service and Appearance Care
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. To replace the windshield wiper blade:
1. Lift the wiper arm away from the
windshield.
2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C).
3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm until you hear the release lever click into place.
To replace the rear wiper blade, lift the rear wiper arm from the window and pull the blade.
Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer.
{ CAUTION Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
(cid:129) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35.
(Continued)
Service and Appearance Care
5-45
Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire
(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height,
aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.
CAUTION (Continued)
(cid:129) Underinflated tires pose
the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-51.
(cid:129) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
(cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause
accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.
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Service and Appearance Care
(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-62.
(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-51 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire
(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height,
aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual configuration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-51 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35.
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For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-51 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35. Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the first two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
(D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (E) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single.
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(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and Definitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-51. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.
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DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35.
Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.
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Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-51 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.
Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-58. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-62.
Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35.
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A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry.
When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also check the tire pressure of the spare tire. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). See Spare Tire on page 5-82 for additional information. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).
Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much flexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road
hazards
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Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.)
As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale.
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Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your
vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-54 for additional information. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause
harmful interference.
2. This device must accept any
interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.
The TPMS operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause
interference.
2. This device must accept any
interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.
Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.
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Tire Pressure Monitor Operation This vehicle may have a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). The TPMS is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly on the vehicle, excluding the spare tire. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmit the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.
When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster.
At the same time, a Driver Information Center (DIC) message is displayed on the DIC display screen. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-34 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-37. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure.
A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to the vehicle, shows the size of the vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for the vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on the vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-51. The vehicle’s TPMS can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-57 and Tires on page 5-44. Notice: Liquid tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. Sensor damage caused by using a tire sealant is not covered by your warranty. Do not use liquid tire sealants.
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The TPMS sensor matching process was started but not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.
(cid:129) One or more TPMS sensors are
missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/retailer for service.
(cid:129) Replacement tires or wheels do not match the vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for the vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-59.
(cid:129) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction.
If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on.
TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: (cid:129) One of the road tires has been
replaced with the spare tire. The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor.
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TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. If increasing the tire’s air pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To let air-pressure out of a tire you can use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key.
You have one minute to match the first tire/wheel position, and five minutes overall, to match all four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer than one minute, to match the first tire and wheel, or more than five minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions, the matching process stops and you need to start over. The TPMS sensor matching procedure is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to
ON/RUN with the engine off. 3. Turn the exterior lamp switch from AUTO to OFF four times within three seconds. A double horn chirp will sound and the TPMS low tire warning light starts flashing. The double horn chirp and flashing TPMS warning light indicates the TPMS matching process has started. The TPMS warning light should continue flashing
throughout the matching procedure. The LOW TIRE message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC).
4. Start with the driver side front tire. 5. Remove the valve cap from the
valve cap stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for 10 seconds, then stop and listen for a single horn chirp. The single horn chirp should sound within 15 seconds, confirming that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position. If you do not hear the confirming single horn chirp, turn the ignition switch to LOCK and start over beginning with Step 2.
6. Proceed to the passenger side
front tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
7. Proceed to the passenger side
rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
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Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate the tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-58 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-64. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench/hoist shaft to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-66.
8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
9. After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the driver side rear tire, check to see if the TPMS low tire warning light and the DIC LOW TIRE messages have turned off. If yes, the TPMS sensors have been relearned. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. If the low tire warning light and the SERV TPM message on the DIC are on after completing Step 5 for the driver side rear tire, the sensor relearn process has not been successful. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF and repeat the matching process beginning with Step 2.
10. Set all four tires to the
recommended air pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.
11. Put the valve caps back on the
valve stems.
Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect the vehicle’s tires, including the spare tire, for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-58 for more information. Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that the vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new.
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Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-54. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-96.
When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions influence when you need new tires.
When rotating the vehicle’s tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the spare tire in the tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-51 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35.
{ CAUTION
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-66.
One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when the tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
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You need new tires if any of the following statements are true: (cid:129) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.
(cid:129) You can see cord or fabric
showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to
