2003 GMC Sierra Owners Manual

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside sf the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete. Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

Dispense gasoline only into approved containers.

* Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

5-9

Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood do the following:

1. Pull the handle inside

located

the vehicle under and to the left of the steering wheel.

I I

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

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2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on

the secondary hood release located near the center of the grill.

3. Lift the hood.

Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly.

5-1 1

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped) D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If equipped) F. Fan G. Engine Oil Fill H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir

1. Remote Negative (-) Terminal (GND) J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal K. Brake Fluid Reservoir L. Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped) M. Underhood Fuse Block N. Battery 0. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

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When you lift up the hood on the VORTEC 5300 V8 engine (VORTEC 4800 and 6000 V8 engines similar), you will see the following:

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A. Engine Air CleanedFilter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped) D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If €quipped) F. Engine Oil Fill G. Fan Y. Remote Negative (-) Terminal (GND)

I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal K. Brake Fluid Reservoir L. Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped) M. Underhood Fuse Block N. Battery 0. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

5-1 5

When you lift up the hood on the VORTEC 8100 V8 engine you will see the following:

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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If €quipped) D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If Equipped) F. Engine Oil Fill G. Fan H. Remote Negative (-) Terminal (GND) I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir K. Brake Fluid Reservoir L. Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped) M. Underhood Fuse Block N. Battery 0. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

Engine Oil If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Oil” in the Diesel Engine Supplement. If the CHECK OIL LEVEL light appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-50. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

5-1 7

Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again keeping the tip down, and check the level.

All Other Engines

The engine oil dipstick has a yellow ring handle and is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . o . . . . . . . . , . ” 0 . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.1 L Engine

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When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5- 120. Notice: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil fill cap for the VORTEC 4800,5300 and 6000 V8 engines is located on the engine valve cover on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. On the 81 00 engine, the oil fill cap is located on the front of the engine. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you choose to perform the engine oil change service yourself, be sure the oil you use has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the viscosity chart.

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RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

~~~

~~

~~

LOOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

. I

HOT

WEATHER - - _1 "C

"F

100 -

- t38

+ 80 -

- + 27

t60 -

- + 16

+ a0 -

- t 4

+ 20 -

- - 7

- ~. 18

0 -

WEATHER

ACCEPTABLE SAE 1OW-30

SAE 5W-30

RECOMMENDED

IF 5W-30 IS NOT

DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER VISCOSITY GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle. You should look for and use only oils which have the API Starburst symbol and which are also identified as SA€ 5W-30. If you cannot find such SAE 5W-30 oils, you can use an SAE IOW-30 oil which has the API Starburst symbol, if it's going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE IOW-40 or SAE 2OW-50 under any conditions.

Notice: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below -20°F recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don't add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

(-29"C), it is

When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life SystemTM) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL light will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

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How to Reset the GM Oil Life System Press the fuel information button until ENGINE OIL LIFE appears in the display. The GM Oil Life System shows an estimate of the oil’s remaining useful life. It will show 100% when the system is reset after an oil change. It will alert you to change your oil on a schedule consistent with your driving conditions. Always reset the engine oil life after an oil change. To reset the Oil Life System press and hold the select button while ENGINE OIL LIFE is displayed. The DIC does not replace the need to maintain your vehicle as recommended in the Maintenance Schedule in this manual. Also, the oil change reminder will not detect dusty conditions or engine malfunctions that may affect the oil. Also, the oil change reminder does not measure how much oil you have in your engine. So be sure to check your oil level often.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The air cleanedfilter assevbly has an indicator, if equipped, that lets you know when the engine air cleaner/filter is dirty and needs to be serviced. The air cleanedfilter indicator is located on the air cleaner cover. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6- 1 I to determine when to check the indicator.

The service window A with the percentage scale shows the amount of engine air cleaner/filter life used. When both service window A and service window B turn orange, replace the engine air cleaner/filter.

After changing the air filter, press the top button on the indicator to reset it.

The air cleanedfilter assembly is located on the front corner of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

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I"'

Operating the engine with the air cleanedfilter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn't there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don't drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleanerlfilter off.

Notice: If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you're driving.

To replace the engine air cleaner/filter do the following:

1. Loosen the screws on the cover of the housing

and lift up the cover.

2. Remove the air cleanedfilter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.

3. Clean the filter sealing surface and the housing. 4. Install the new engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the engine air cleanedfilter. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6- 1 I . 5-24

Automatic Transmission Fluid (Except Allison Transmission) When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer towing.

0 Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery

service.

If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (1 66 000 km). See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).

At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.

0 While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

-1

The red transmission dipstick handle with the graphic is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger's side.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (IOOC). If it's colder than 50°F (IO"C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (IOOC) or more. I f it's colder than 50°F (lo%), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

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3.

4.

Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 18. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill. Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@ 111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@ 111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under How to Check.

0 When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid (Allison Transmission) When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 25,000 miles (41 500 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.

0 When doing frequent trailer towing.

Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Pat? A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running.

0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, run the engine for at least once minute and shift to DRIVE (D). Then shift to NEUTRAL (N) and then REVERSE (R) to fill the hydraulic system. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

0 Allow the engine to run at idle (500-800 rpm).

Slowly release the brake pedal.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

Cold Check Procedure The purpose of the cold check is to determine if the transmission has enough fluid to be operated safely until a hot check can be made. The fluid level rises as fluid temperature increases. DO NOT fill above the COLD CHECK band if the transmission fluid is below normal operating temperatures. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check the fluid level reading. Repeat the check

procedure to verify the reading.

4. If the fluid level is within the COLD CHECK band, the transmission may be operated until the fluid is hot enough to perform a hot check. If the fluid level is not within the COLD CHECK band, add or drain fluid as necessary to bring the level into the middle of the COLD CHECK band.

5. Perform a hot check at the first opportunity after the

normal operating temperature of 160°F (71 "C) to 200°F (93°C) is reached.

6. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

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Hot Check Procedure The fluid must be hot to ensure an accurate check. The fluid level rises as temperature increases.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Operate the transmission in DRIVE (D) range until the normal operating temperature of 160°F (71 "C) to 200°F (93°C) is reached. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading. Safe operating level is within the HOT RUN band on the dipstick. The width of the HOT RUN band represents approximately 1.06 quart (1 .O liter) of fluid at normal operating temperature. If the fluid level is not within the HOT RUN band, add or drain fluid as necessary to bring the fluid level to within the HOT RUN band. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way.

5-30

Consistency of Readings Always check the fluid level at least twice using the procedures described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper fluid level. If inconsistent readings persist, check the transmission breather to be sure it is clean and unclogged. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer. How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-78. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn't take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don't over%//. Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@ 111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@ 111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under How to Check. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way.

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. See your maintenance schedule to find out when to change your transmission fluid. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.

Then, follow these steps:

5-speed for VORTEC 4300 V6 and 4800 V8 Engines

Shown, Other Manual Transmissions Similar

1. 2.

3.

Remove the filler plug. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

5-31

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 18.

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough

fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully

seated.

Hydraulic Clutch

The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

5-32

When to Check and What to Use

The clutch master cylinder reservoir is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-1 I and Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-18. How to Check and Add Fluid The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap.

Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine -- at 30,000 miles coolant will require change sooner (50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL@ engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL@ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-36. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F ( -37°C) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

5-33

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anythinq else.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. Checking Coolant

The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

to your cooling

Adding only plain wa system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. 5-34

Turning the surge tank pressure cap l...en the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If the LOW COOLANT LEVEL message comes on and stays on, it means you're low on engine coolant. See "Low Coolant Level" under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-60.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.

5-35

Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank.

Notice: Your pressure cap is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. See “Capacities and Specifications” for more information.

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-42. In addition, you will find a LOW COOLANT LEVEL, ENGINE OVERHEATED and a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message in the Driver Information Center on the instrument panel. See Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-50. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) If an overheated engine condition exists and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the life system. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.

oil

5-36

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

Steam from an overheated engine can bLl you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get

CAUTION:

(Continued)

everyone away trom tne VE cle it cot.- down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

Nofice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

5-37

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message, can indicate a serious problem. For more information, see Driver Information Center (DIC) OR page 3-50. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under Towing a Trailer on page 4-66.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it’s on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving - AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE @ or DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.

5-38

Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

8100 V8 Engines

All Other Engines

A. Coolant Surge Tank 6. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

5-39

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

- - E

er-,.ne

loses, and o t l ~

Heater and radiatc parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

5-40

1 come out at nigh speea. Never IU-

cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

~~

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Gasoline Engines If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-33 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they (Continued)

CAUTION:

5-41

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for theproper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant.

Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

1. Park the vehicle on a

level surface. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.

2. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left)

about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

3. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

5-42

4. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper

mixture, to the FULL COLD mark.

5. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark

5-43

6. Then replace the

pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages. Power Steering Fluid

Engine Fan Noise

Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.

5-44

8100 V8 Engine

How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 18. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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All Other Engines

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

Notice:

freeze and

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

if

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid

Q Open the cap with the

washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

5-46

Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

I ou have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6- 16.

5-47

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 18. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

i in your brake

Wit he wrong kind of fl system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

5-48

Notice:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6- 17.

5-49

Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco@ battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco@ battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

5-50

-

,es have acid that can burn you and ,as Batt,, that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3- 121.

Jump Starting

If your battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

Batteries c ~ . because:

. . A you. They can be dangerous

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

5-5 1

2.

3.

If you have a vehicle with a diesel engine with two batteries (or more), you should know before you begin that, especially in cold weather, you may not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another vehicle to start your diesel engine. If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that’s closer to the starter - this will reduce electrical resistance. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear not in NEUTRAL. Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

5. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (-) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind a red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive bracket. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover. The remote negative (-) terminal is located on the engine drive bracket on all V8 and diesel engines, and on the thermostat housing on the 8.1 L engine. On V8 engines it is marked “GND.” On V6 engines the remote negative (-) terminal is located on a tab attached to the engine accessory drive bracket where it is marked “GND.” See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

5-52

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco@ battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other movi - engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

6. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or a remote positive terminal (+) if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. On vehicles equipped with dual batteries, make all battery connections to the remote positive (+) and remote negative (-) terminals.

5-53

7. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

9. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

10. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next

step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery.

5-54

11. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the dead battery or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

12. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

13. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If

it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

V8 Engine

V8 Engine, Diesel

Similar

5-55

Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the bad battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover to its

original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (-) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (-) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

5-56

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 1500 HD Series, 2500 Series, 2500 HD, and 3500 Series is from 0 to 112 inch (0 to 13 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 1500 and 2500 Series vehicles with QUADRASTEERTM (4 Wheel Steer) is from 0 to 1/4 inch (0 to 6 mm) below the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-18.

1500 Series Shown, 2500 Series Similar

5-57

Four-wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6- 16. How to Check Lubricant

Manual Transfer Case

5-58

Automatic Transfer Case

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 18.

Front Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. 1'Vhen the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 0 to 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-18.

5-59

Noise Control System

Tampering with Noise Control System Prohibited

The following information relates to compliance with federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 Ibs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States. Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof:

1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person,

other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or

5-60

2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation:

Removal of the noise shields or any underhood insulation.

Engine:

Removal or rendering engine speed governor equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.

(if

Fan and Drive:

Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering clutch inoperative. Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped).

Air Intake:

Removal of the air cleaner silencer. Modification of the air cleaner.

Exhaust:

Removal of the muffler and/or resonator. Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe clamps.

Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. See Replacement Bulbs on page 5-70 for the proper types of bulbs to use. "dc-en Bu'%

Headlamps

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

1. If your vehicle is equipped with two pins, remove

the two pins on the top of the headlamp assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin outward and pull it straight up. To remove the inner pin, turn it in and pull it straight up.

5-6 1

.

A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. High-Beam Headlamp

If your vehicle has one pin on the headlamp assembly, remove the pin. To remove the pin, turn the pin up and pull it out straight out.

2. 3. 4.

5.

Pull the headlamp assembly out. Unplug the electrical connector. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it from the headlamp assembly. Put the new bulb into the assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight. Use care not to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands. Plug in the electrical connector. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle. Install and tighten the two pins. If your vehicle has one pin, install it and turn it into the locking feature.

6. 7.

5-62

3. Pull the turn signal housing out from the vehicle. 4. Press the locking release lever, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal housing.

5. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 6. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. Use care not

to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands.

7. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing and

turn it clockwise until it locks.

8. Put the turn signal housing back onto the vehicle placing the hook and posts on the inner side into the alignment holes first and then the outer side into the retainer bracket. Push until you hear a click.

9. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime Running Lamps

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Retainer Clip C. Front Turn Signal Lamp D. Daytime Running Lamp 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as mentioned

previously.

2. Press the retainer clip, located behind the turn

signal housing, towards the outside of the vehicle.

5-63

Roof Marker Lamps

5-64

2. Remove the six screws on the center roof marker

lamps.

3. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise to remove it

from the socket.

4. Put a new bulb into the

socket and turn clockwise until it locks in place.

5. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws.

5-65

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) and Cargo Lamp

I . Remove the screws and lift off the lamp assembly.

A. Cargo Lamps B. Center High-Mounted Stoplamps

2. Remove the CHMSL bulb holder back plate from

the housing by pressing the release tabs.

3. Remove the CHMSL bulb by pulling the bulb

straight out from the holder back plate. Remove a cargo bulb by turning the socket counterclockwise and pulling the bulb straight out.

5-66

Pickup Box Identification and Fender Marker Lamps 1. Remove the screws and lamp assembly. 2. Unplug the lamp assembly harness. 3. Gently pry the individual lamp from the lamp

housing.

4. Unplug the lamp. 5. Plug in a new lamp and snap it into the housing. 6. Reinstall the lamp housing. Taillamps 1. Open the tailgate.

2. Remove the two rear

lamp assembly screws near the tailgate latch and pull out the lamp assembly.

5-67

4. If a CHMSL bulb is replaced, put the new bulb into

the socket and press it in until it is tight. If a cargo lamp is replaced, put a new cargo lamp bulb into the socket and press it in until it is tight before turning the socket counterclockwise.

5. Put the bulb holder back plate into the lamp

housing.

6. Reinstall the lamp assembly and tighten the screws.

Your vehicle may have one of the following taillamp assemblies:

A. B. C.

Stoplamp Turn Signal Back-up Lamp

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3. Press the release tab, if equipped, and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp housing.

4. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket. 5. Press a new bulb into the socket and turn the socket

clockwise into the taillamp housing.

6. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly. 7. Close the tailgate.

5-69

Taillamps (Chassis Cab Models)

Replacement Bulbs

I Exterior LamD Low-Beam Headlamps

I Bulb Number 9006 9005 Hiah-Beam Headlamp

~~

~~

Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) 41 57K Front Roof Marker Lamps 194 I Front Parkina and Turn Lamo Rear Marker Lamp, Taillamp and Stop Lamp** I Taillamo and Stoo Lama** I Sidemarker Lamp Rear Turn Lamp

(If Equipped)

**

I Back-up

Lamp Back-up Lamp** Center Hiqh-Mounted Stoplamp Cargo Lamp

~~

I 3457A 3157 11157 I194 31 57 1156 Rear Turn Lamp I 31 57 1156 91 2 91 2 194 Fender Marker Lamps

I * For any Bulb not listed here, contact your dealer.

** Chassis Cab Models

A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Stoplamp C. Back-up Lamp 1. Using your hands, peel the rubber seal away from

the lens.

2. Lift the lens off the lamp assembly. 3. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket. 4. Put a new bulb into the socket and press it in until it

is tight.

5. Reinstall the lens and the lens seal.

5-70

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See Af Least Twice a Year on page 6-72 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5- 124.

To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following:

1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is

facing away from the windshield.

2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly

toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.

3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.

5-7 1

~

~~

Ifla_- 1 tires pose the same ______ ,er

Unde as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your warranty booklet for details.

Poort, ma .... ained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

5-72

Inflation -- Tire Pressure

The CertificationDire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing

0 Too much heat 0 Tire overloading

Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear Bad handling

0 Rough ride 0 Needless damage from road hazards When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

5-73

Dual Tire Operation

Tire Inspection and Rotation

Tires should be rotated every 7,500 miles (12 500 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-77 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-80 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench/hoist shaft to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-84. If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, also see Dual Tire Operation on page 5-74. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services,” in Section 6, for scheduled rotation intervals.

When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (1 6 0 , l 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque and wheel nut tightening information, see “Tightening the Wheel Nuts” later in this section. The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” earlier in this section. Also see “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals

If yo, Jperal, jour vet-..,.e with a tire t..J is badly underinflated, the tire can overheat. An overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including the spare) are properly inflated.

See “Tires” and “Inflation - Tire Pressure” in the Index for more information on proper tire inflation.

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FRT

FRT

If your vehicle has single rear wheels and the tread design for your front tires is the same as your rear tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires. If your vehicle has front tires with different tread designs (such as all season vs. on/off road) than the rear tires, don’t rotate your tires front to rear.

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the tread design for your front tires is the same as your rear tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires.

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After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certificationnire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-120.

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the tread design for the front tires is different from the dual rear tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here when rotating your tires. The dual tires are rotated as a pair, and the inside rear tires became the outside rear tires. When you install dual wheels, be sure the vent holes in the inner and outer wheels on each side are lined up.

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

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When It Is Time for New Tires

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.

* You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split.

0 The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Buying New Tires

To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certificationrnire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow).