1994 GMC Sierra Owners Manual

(Neutral), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in “P” (Park). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear - not in “N” (Neutral). If you are parking on a hill, or if you’re pulling a trailer, also see “Parking On Hills” in the Index.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:

Start your engine; Shift into a gear; and

0 Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Light Wiring See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.

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Problems on the Road

Section

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road . Hazard Warning Flasher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-2 Other Warning Devices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-3 Jumpstarting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-3 TowingYourVehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-7 Engine Overheating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-11 Engine Fan Noise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-25 If a Tire Goes Flat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-25 Changing a Flat Tire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-26 Jackstorage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-29 SpareTire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-29 If You’re Stuck: In Sand. Mud. Ice or Snow ..................... 5-40

5-1

Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lights will flash on and off. But they won’t flash if you’re braking.

Press the button in to make your front and rear turn signals flash on and off. Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.

To turn off the flashers, pull out on the collar.

When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work.

5-2

Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can use them to warn others. Set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (1 00 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another- vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.

things

NOTICE: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your vehicle warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it could damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission. And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that way.

5-3

To Jump Start Your Vehicle 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative

ground system.

I NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

If you have a diesel engine vehicle with two batteries (or more), you should know before you begin that, especially in cold weather, you may not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another vehicle to start your diesel engine. If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that’s on the passenger side of the vehicle - this will reduce electrical resistance. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be

sure the vehicle’s aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. You could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transmission in “P” (Park) or a manual transmission in “N” (Neutral). If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in “N” (Neutral).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all lights that aren’t

needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

NOTICE: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminals on each battery.

5-4

5. Check that the jumper cables don't have loose or missing insulation. 'Ir'

they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don't connect (+) to (-) or you'll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.

5-5

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+)

terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative

(-) cable. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part of the vehicle with the dead battery.

Good Battery (-)

Heavy Metal Engine Part

5-6

9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. :Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for

awhile.

1 1. ‘Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service. .Remove Cables in this Order:

1. Heavy Metal Engine Part

2. Good Battery (-) 3. Good Battery (+) 4. Dead Battery (+)

12. :Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent electrical shorting.

‘Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have your GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow it without damage. If your vehicle has been changed since it was factory-new, by adding such things like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these things coulcl be damaged during towing. Befolre you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers.

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When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle has rear-wheel drive, or that it has the four-wheel drive option. The make, model, and year of your vehicle. Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission and transfer case, if you have one. If there was an accident, what was damaged.

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmission and transfer case, if you have one, should be in Neutral and the parking brake released.

5-8

Towing From the Front

If you have a two-wheel drive vehicle, don’t have your vehicle towed on the rear wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the rear wheels, don’t go more than 35 mph (56 km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transmission will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear wheels have to be supported on a dolly. If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option and the transfer case is engaged, a dolly must be used under the rear wheels when towing from the front .

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Towing From the Rear

NOTICE: Towing pickup models from the rear while loaded with heavy cargo may cause the frame side rails to flex sufficiently to allow the pickup box to contact the cab and could cause damage cab and/or box.

to the

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,ngine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle instrument panel. If you have a diesel engine, you will also find a low coolant light on your instrument panel. If Steam 1s Coming From Your Engine

NOTICE: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

5-11

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. 0 Stop after high speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:

1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the

window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to “N” (Neutral). If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND GET EVERYONE OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-12

Cooling System -Gas Engines

When you decide it's safe to lift the hood, here's what you'll see: A. Coolant recovery

tank

B. Engine fan(s) C. Radiator pressure

cap

A CAUTION:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don't do anything else until it cools down.

The coolant level should be at or above the COLD mark. If it isn't, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

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NOTICE: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant’’ in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

5-14

I NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the COLD mark, start your vehicle. try. You If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator!, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

5-15

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system,

including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.

Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

it first stops. (Don’t press

I r

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3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the

coolant recovery tank to the COLD mark.

5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

I

6. Start the engine

and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan(s).

7. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the hase of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on pressure cap line up like this.

5-19

A CAUTION:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan is not running under the hood can start up even when the engine from and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

E The coolant level should be slightly above the COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

5-20

I NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge lank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the COLD mark add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

5-21

... . . , ..

..,. ~.

NOTICE: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.

5 -22

1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling

system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.

Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don't press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep

turning the cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

5-23

3. Open the air bleed valve located on the thermostat housing.

4. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mix, up to the COLD mark.

While filling the surge tank, watch to see if coolant begins to stream out the air bleed valve. When coolant begins to stream out, close the valve.

5. With the air bleed valve closed and the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan(s).

>. _:

5-24

..I . ... . ;. . .

Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day driving conditions the fan is spinning slower and clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch partially disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages. If a Tire Goes Flat It’s UfluSual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,’’ here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.

5-25

A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may a skid. In any rear blowout, remove require the same correction you’d use in the vehicle under control by your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next section shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely. Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

5-26

use the jack and change a tire.

L Blocked Tire

1 ne equipment you’ll need is behind the passenger’s seat. Your spare tire is stowed under the truck or mounted to the inside of the truck bed on the driver’s side. Jacking Tool Storage- Two and Four Door Models

1. Nut 2. Jack 3. Jack Handle Extension 4. Socket

5. Jack and Tool Storage Box 6. Ratchet 7. Jack Handle 8. Tool Retainer

5-27

Jacking Tool Storage- Extended Cab Models

1. Nut 2. Jack and Tool Cover 3. Jack Handle Extension 4. Tool Retainer

5. Jack and Tool Storage Box 6. Ratchet 7. Socket 8. Jack 9. Jack Handle

Jacking Tool Storage- Chassis Cab Models

1. Nut 2. Jack Handle Extension 3. Socket 4. Jack and Tool Storage Box

5. Ratchet 6. Jack Handle 7. Tool Retainer 8. Jack

5-28

Jack Storage Your jack and wheel ratchet are behind the passenger seat. Turn the wing nut to the left and remove the cover if there is one.

Spare Tire Storage-Underbody Carrier Remember, never remove or restow a tire from or to a stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle is supported only by a jack.

Spare Tire

Your spare tire may be mounted underneath the rear of the vehicle, OR;

it may be mounted to the inside of the truck bed on the driver’s side.

If you have a chassis cab, refer to the information from the body supplier/installer. The spare tire is a full size tire, like the other tires on your vehicle.

5-29

To Remove the Spare Tire

UP Marking

The ratchet has an UP and a DOWN marking.

Attach the ratchet, with the DOWN marking facing you, to the wheel wrench.

Put the chisel end of the wheel wrench on an angle through the hole in the rear bumper. Be sure the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft.

5-30

from under the vehicle.

When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening.

Turn the nut to the left until it comes off. Pull the tire off the bolt and remove it from the bed.

Pickup Bed Mounting To remove a pickup bed mounted spare tire:

5-31

Changing the Tire

Start with the jack, the jack handle and the ratchet.

If the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, you'll need the jack handle extensions also.

Attach the jack handle (and jack handle extensions, if needed) to the jack.

With the UP marking on the ratchet facing you, rotate the ratchet to the right.

5-32

That will lift the jack head a little. Before raising the vehicle, do the following things. Put your spare tire near the flat tire. Remove the wheel trim.

Be careful; the rim edges may be sharp. Don't try to remove it with your bare hands.

If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, use the wheel wrench and ratchet, with DOWN facing you, to unscrew and take them off.

Then take the hub cap off. If the wheel has a trim ring, remove it by using the flat end of the wheel wrench.

5-33

If the wheel has a smooth center piece or a center piece with recessed nuts, place the flat end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and pry out gently.

Using the wheel wrench and ratchet, with DOWN facing

Position the jack under the vehicle.

5-34

NOTICE: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

off the jack.

Front Position

Raise the vehicle by rotating the ratchet to the right. Make sure the UP marking faces you. Use the jack handle extentions if the flat is on the rear of the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

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Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

5-36

Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel.

Lower the vehicle by rotating the ratchet to the left. Lower the jack completely.

5-37

Tighten to the Left

Tightening Sequence

Tighten the nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Rotate the ratchet to the right with the UP marking facing you.

For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index. Put the wheel trim back on. For vehicles with plastic nut caps, tighten the c3ps until they are finger tight, then tighten them an additional one-half turn with the ratchet. Remove any wheel blocks. Remember, the jack and tire must be properly stored in their original storage position before you begin driving again. The next part, “Storing the Jack and Tire,” will show you how.

Storing the Tire and Jack

Storing Tire and Jack -Underbody Carrier Mounted Spare Tire

5. Valve Stem (Pointed Down) 6. Spare Tire 7. Retainer 8. Hoist Cable

1. Hoist Assembly 2. Ratchet 3. Wheel Wrench 4. Hoist Shaft Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle, with the valve stem pointed down. Pull the retainer through the wheel center. Attach the ratchet, with the UP side facing you, to the socket. Put the flat end of the socket into the hole in the rear bumper. Turn the ratchet until the tire is raised against the underside of the vehicle. YOU will hear two “clicks” when the tire is secure, but pull on the tire to make sure. Return the jack, ratchet, socket and jack extensions to their location behind the passengers’ seat. Store the jack; and jacking tools as shown in the

5-39

illustrations earlier in this section. Secure the items and replace the jack cover if there is one.

Storing Tire and Jack -Pickup Bed Mounted Spare Tire 1. Spare Tire 2. Spare Wheel

Mounting Nut

3. Spare Wheel

Mounting Bolt

it to the right

Put the tire in the bed of the vehicle and slide the spare wheel mounting bolt out. through the bottom wheel nut hole. Be sure the valve stem faces Then place the spare wheel mounting nut on the bolt and turn until the tire is secure. Return the jack, ratchet, socket and jack extensions to their location behind the passengers’ seat. Store the jack and jacking tools as shown in the illustrations earlier in this section. Secure the items and replace cover if there is one. If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

the jack

5-40

~

~~

~~

NOTICE: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your back and forth, you can destroy your .

as

Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between “R’ (Reverse) and a forward gear (or with a manual , between First or Second gear and Reverse), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index. Using the Recovery Hooks

is in gear. If

If you ever get stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

5-41

NOTICE: Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

5-42

Service & Appearance Care

Section

its appearance care .

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle . This section begins with service and fuel information. and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels . There is also technical information about your vehicle. and a section devoted to Service ................................................... 6-3 Fuel (Gasoline Engines) ...................................... 6-4 Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System ...................... 6-5 Checking Things Under the Hood ............................. 6-15 HoodRelease .......................................... 6-15 Cleaning Your Diesel Engine .............................. 6-16 Noise Control System .................................... 6-16 Engine Oil (Except Diesel) ................................ 6-17 Engine Oil (Diesel Engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-24 iri Air Cleaner ............................................ 6-29 Automatic Fluid ........................................ 6-30 ManualFluid ........................................... 6-33 Hydraulic Clutch ........................................ 6-34 RearAxle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-35 mnsfer Case .......................................... 6-36 FrontAxle ............................................. 6-37 Engine Coolant ......................................... 6-38 Power Steering Fluid .................................... 6-43

6-1

Checking Things Under the Hood (continued)

Windshield Washer Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brake Master Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Replacing Brake System Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Other Maintenance Items . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windshield Wiper Blade Inserts .............................. FluidLeakCheck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vehiclestorage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bulb Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuses and Circuit Breakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Exhaustsystem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Loading Your Vehicle Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inflation-Tire Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tire Inspection and Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . When it’s Time for New Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Buying New Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Uniform Tire Quality Grading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ......................... Wheel Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tire Chains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Appearancecare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle

6-45 6-46 6-49 6-49 6-50 6-51 6-51 6-52 6-52 6-53 6-62 6-64 6-64 6-71 6-71 6-73 6-74 6-76 6-77 6-78 6-78 6-79 6-80 6-81 6-84 Appearance Care Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-87 Vehicle Identification Number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-88 Service Parts Identification Label . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-90 Specifications Charts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-91

6-2

Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

6-3

NOTICE: If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough about it, your vehicle could be damaged.

Maintenance Schedule Section 7 of this manual, “Scheduled Maintenance Services”, explains the maintenance your new vehicle needs, and when it should be done. It also has a form that you can use to record the maintenance work done on your vehicle. Be sure to read this information. Fuel (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System” in this Section. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this. Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the U.S. and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see “UNLEADED” right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.’’ Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.

6-4

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5 % methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “co~olvent~” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions. Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System Some states and provinces have restrictions on the purchase of diesel fuel for light-duty vehicles and require you to buy permits or pay special taxes. Some of these restrictions apply only to residents, and others apply to both residents and visitors. These restrictions can change. To learn the current restrictions in any state or province, contact your auto club, the police or other officials.

6-5

Fuel Requirements

NOTICE: Diesel fuel or fuel additives not recommended in this manual could damage your fuel system and engine. Your warranty wouldn’t cover this damage. And:

Diesel fuel that has been mixed with engine oil could damage your engine and emission controls. Always check with your service station operator to make sure his diesel fuel has not been mixed with engine oil. If you ever run out of diesel fuel, it can be difficult to restart your engine. “Running Out of Fuel,” later in this section, tells you how to get it started again. To avoid all this, try never to let your tank get empty.

What Fuel to Use For best results, use number 2-D diesel fuel year-round (above and below freezing conditions) as oil companies blend number 2-D fuel to address climate differences. Number 1-D diesel fuel may be used in below freezing weather, however, it will produce a power and fuel economy loss. The use of number 1-D diesel fuel in warm or hot climates may result in stalling, poor starting when the engine is hot and may damage the fuel injection system. Diesel fuel may foam when you fill your tank. This can cause the automatic pump nozzle to shut off, even though your tank isn’t full. If this happens, just wait for the foaming to stop and then continue to fill your tank.

A CAUTION:

Heat coming from the engine may cause the fuel to expand and force the fuel out of your tank. If something ignites the fuel, a fire could start and people could be burned. To help avoid this, fill your fuel tank only until the automatic nozzle shuts off. Don’t try to “top it off.”

6-6

Cold Weather Operation In cold weather (below 20”F, or -7”C), use 1-D or “Winterized” Number 2-D fuel (a blend of I-D and 2-D). Be sure you get the right fuel. In very cold temperatures (when it stays below 0°F or -1 8OC), use Number 1-D. If you’re driving in very cold temperatures and can’t get Number I-D or a “winterized” Number 2-D, you can use one gallon of kerosene for every two gallons of diesel fuel. Once you add the kerosene, run your engine for several minutes so the fuels will mix. Add kerosene only when the temperature falls below 0°F (-1 8” C), because the fuel economy of kerosene isn’t as good as that of diesel fuel.

NOTICE: Never use home heating oil or gasoline in your diesel engine. They can cause engine damage.

In cold weather, your fuel filter may become clogged (waxed), especially if you use Number 2-D diesel fuel that hasn’t been “winterized.” To unclog it, warm the filter to between 32°F and 50°F (0°C to 10°C). You won’t need to replace it.

Water in Fuel Sometimes, water can be pumped into your fuel tank along with your diesel fuel. This can happen if a service station doesn’t regularly inspect and clean its fuel tanks, or if it gets contaminated fuel from its suppliers. If this happens, a “WATER IN FUEL” light will come on. If it does, the excess water must be drained. Your dealer can do this for you.

This light also should come on briefly when you start your engine, as a check. If it doesn’t, have it fixed so it will be there to let you know if you ever do get water in your fuel.

6-7

If the light comes on at any other time, use this chart. “Water in Fuel” Light Chart

Problem

Light comes on intermittently. Light stays on: 1. At temperatures above

freezing.

2. At temperatures below

freezing.

Recommended Action Drain water from fuel filter.

Drain fuel filter immediately. If no water can be drained and light stays on, see your dealer for assistance. Drain fuel filter immediately. If no water can be drained - water may be frozen. Open the air bleed valve to check for fuel pressure. If no fuel pressure is present, replace the fuel filter.

3. Immediately after refueling - Fuel tank purging required. See

large amount of water possibly your dealer for assistance. pumped into fuel tank.

Hesitation or “flat” performance at high speed or during hard acceleration may be an indication of premature fuel filter plugging due to dirty or contaminated fuel, The filter element may need to be changed if this happens. See your dealer for assistance.

NOTICE: If you drive when this warning light is on, you can damage your fuel injection system and your engine. If the light comes on right after you refuel, it means water was pumped into your fuel tank. Turn off your engine immediately. Then, have the water drained at once.

To drain water:

1. Stop and park the vehicle in a safe place. Turn off the engine and apply

the parking brake.

2. Remove the fuel tank cap. 3. Place a fuel-resistant container under the filter drain hose.

6-8

1 I 4. With the engine off, open the water drain valve 2 to 3 turns. When standing in front of the vehicle, the valve is located on the right side of the thermostat housing.

5. Start the engine and allow it to idle until clear fuel is observed. 6. Stop the engine and close the water drain valve. 7. Remove the fuel-resistant container and properly dispose of the

contaminated fuel. To find out how to properly dispose of contaminated diesel fuel see “What to Do with Used Oil” in the “Engine Oil (Diesel Engines)” part, later in this section.

8. Install the fuel tank cap. If the WATER IN FUEL light comes on again after driving a short distance or the engine runs rough or stalls-a been pumped into the fuel tank. The fuel tank should be purged.

large amount of water has probably

A CAUTION:

Diesel fuel containing water is still flammable. You could be burned. If you ever try to drain water from your fuel, keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from the mixture.

6-9

~

NOTICE: If there is water in your diesel fuel and the weather is warm or humid, fungus and bacteria can grow in the fuel. They can damage your fuel system. You'll need a diesel fuel biocide to sterilize your fuel system. Your dealer can advise you if you ever need this. If your fuel tank needs to be purged to remove water, see your dealer or a qualified technician. Improper purging can damage your fuel system.

Running Out of Fuel (Diesel Engines) If the engine stalls and you think that you've run out of fuel, do this:

First, open the fuel filter air bleed valve. If there is air, then you are probably out of fuel.

To restart your engine:

1. If you're parked on a level surface, add at least two gallons of fuel.

However, if you're parked on a slope, you may need to add up to five gallons of fuel.

2. With the air bleed valve open, turn your ignition key to "Start"

for 10

to 15 seconds to crank (but not start) your engine. Wait one minute between intervals of cranking to allow the starter motor to cool. Overheating the starter could damage it. Keep doing this until you can just see some clear fuel at the air bleed valve. (If, during this step, the engine starts, turn the ignition off and close the valve before restart.)

6-10

A CAUTION:

Diesel fuel is flammable. It could start a fire if it gets on hot engine parts. You could be burned. Don’t let too much fuel flow from the air bleed valve, and wipe up any spilled fuel with a cloth.

3. Close the air bleed valve. 4. Turn the ignition key to “Start” for 10 to 15 seconds at a time until your

engine starts.

Fuel Filter Replacement (Diesel Engines) If you want to change the fuel filter yourself, here’s how to do it: Before you remove the filter, drain any water that may have collected in the fuel filter or filter head. See “Water in Fuel” earlier in this section to find out how to remove water from the fuel system. Then, drain fuel from the filter by opening the air bleed valve and the water drain valve. This prevents the fuel from spilling as you replace the filter. Drain the fuel into a fuel-resistant container and dispose of it properly.

A CAUTION:

Diesel fuel is flammable. It could start a fire if something ignites it, and you could be burned. Don’t let it get on hot engine parts, and keep matches or other ignition sources away.

I . Turn off the engine and apply the parking brake. 2. Take off the fuel tank cap. This releases vacuum in the tank. 3. The filter is located at the rear of the intake manifold.

6-11

4. Unscrew and

remove the ring nut from the top of the filter head.

5. Lift the element out of the filter head.

6. If there is any dirt

on the element sealing surface of the filter head, clean it off.

7. Line up the

writing on the top of the filter so it faces (is readable from) the front of the vehicle. Push the element in until the mating surfaces touch.

8. With the air bleed valve open, turn your ignition key to START for 10

to 15 seconds. Wait one minute for your starter to cool. Do this until you can see clear fuel coming from

the air bleed valve.

9. Close the air bleed valve and replace the fuel cap. 10. Start your engine and let it idle for five minutes. Check your fuel filter

and air bleed valve for leaks.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation, North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7 Filling Your Tank

The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle.

/i\ CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns vioIently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from gasoline.

6-13

While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear a clicking noise.

I NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not €it or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

6-14

Checking Things Under the Hood Iood Release

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the secondary hood release, located just to the passenger side of the center of the grill. Lift the hood.

Your vehicle, if it has air conditioning, may have a auxiliary engine fan in addition to the belt driven fan.

6 - 15

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline or diesel fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or

I spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly. Cleaning Your Diesel Engine

NOTICE: If you spray or pour water or any other liquid on your engine when it is warm or hot, or when it is running, you could cause serious damage to it. If you ever clean the engine, clean it only when it is cold.

Noise Control System The following information relates to compliance with Federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 pounds (4 536 kilograms). The Maintenance Schedule booklet provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your Warranty hooklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States.

6- 16

Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof:

1 . The removal or rendering inoperative by any person, other than for

purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or

2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been

removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation:

Removal of noise shields or underhood insulation.

Engine:

Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if so equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.

Fan and Drive:

Removal of fan clutch (if so equipped) or rendering clutch inoperative. Removal of fan shroud (if so equipped).

Air Intake:

Removal of air cleaner silencer. Reversing air cleaner cover.

Exhaust:

Removal of muffler and/or resonator. Removal of exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe clamps.

Engine Oil (Except Diesel) It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

To Check Engine Oil

Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip lower. When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

6-18

The engine oil filler cap is located on the driver’s side engine valve cover.

Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Oil to Use Beginning midyear 1993, oils of the proper quality for your vehicle will be identified with this new “starburst” symbol. The “starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for use in your gasoline engine.

YOU should look for this on the front of the oil container, and use only oils that display this new symbol.

6- 19

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart: LIGHT DUTY EMISSIONS -GAS ENGINES

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

LOOK

ONE OF THESE

LABELS

-1

HOT

WEATHER

tlOO -

t 38

+ 8 0 -

t 27

+ 6 0 - + 4 0 - +20 -

t 16

t 4

- 7

0 -

- 18

--

-I SAE 1OW-30

5w-30 PREFERRED

IF NEITHER SAE 5W-30 NOR SAE 1OW-30 GRADE OILS ARE AVAILABLE, SAE GRADE MAY BE USED AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 40 DEGREES F (4 DEGREES C). DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

2OW-50 OR

30

As shown in the chart, SAE SW-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (-1 8°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE lOW-40 or SAE 20W-50.

6-20

HEAVY DUTY EMISSIONS -GAS ENGINES

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

ONE OF THESE

LOOK FOR LABELS

HOT

WEATHER “F +loo - - +3a +80 - - +27

O C

+60 - - + 1 6

+ 4 0 - - + 4

+ 2 0 - - - 7

0 - - - 1 8

SAE 1OW-30 PREFERRED above 0°F

(-1 SOC)

I SAE

5W-30

COLD

WEATHER

IF NEITHER SAE 5W-30 NOR SAE 1OW-30 GRADE OILS ARE AVAILABLE, SAE 30 GRADE MAY BE USED AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 40 DEGREES F (4 DEGREES C). DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 1OW-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60°F (16°C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE low40 or SAE 20W-50.

6-21

If you cannot find oils with the new “starburst” symbol on the front of the container, you should look for and use oils containing the following three things:

SHor SG “SH” or “SG” must be on the oil container, either by itself or combined with other quality designations, such as “SH/CD,” “SH,SG,CD,” “SG/CD,” etc. These letters show American Petroleum Institute (API) levels of quality.

0 SAE 5W-30 -Vehicles with Light Duty Emissions (SSOO GVWR or

less) OR SAE 1 OW-30 -Vehicles with Heavy Duty Emissions (850 1 GVWR or more).

0 Energy Conserving I1

Oils with these words on the container will help you save fuel.

These three things are usually included in a doughnut shaped logo (symbol) on most containers. If you cannot find oils with the “starburst” symbol, you should look for oils with the doughnut shaped symbol, containing the three things noted above.

NOTICE: If you use oils that do not have either the “starburst” symbol or an API SH or SG designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets a l l the requirements for your vehicle.

6-22

Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km). It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles (16 km). The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door-to-door delivery, or in stop-and-go You tow a trailer often. Most trips are through dusty places. The vehicle is frequently operated off-road.

traffic).

If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and-filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. Light Duty Emissions: If none of them is true, change the oil every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change and at every other oil change after that. Heavy Duty Emissions: If none of them is true, change the oil every 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change and at every other oil change after that if mileage determines when you change your oil. If time determines when you change your oil, change the filter each time you change your oil.

Engine Coolant Heater (Engine Block Heater) An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0°F (- 18°C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater ” in the Index.

6-23

What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don't let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer's warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure t.o drain all free-tlowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don't ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. Engine Oil (Diesel Engines) It's a good idea to check your engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don't, the oil dipstick might not show-the actual level.

5-24

To Check Engine Oil

Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip lower.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

6-25

The engine oil filler cap is located on a filler tube at the front of the engine.

Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Oil to Use Look for these two things:

C F 4 S H C F 4 S H is the best oil for your vehicle. However, if you can not find CF4/SH oil, you may use CF-4/SG or CE/SH or CE/SG oil. These may be listed as shown or in reverse order, for example SHEF-4. Other letters may also be listed, such as SH/CD, CE, CF-4. These letters show American Petroleum Institute (API) levels of quality.

NOTICE: If you use oils that don’t have these designations, you can cause engine damage which is not covered by your warranty.

6-26

DIESEL ENGINES

RECOMMENDHI SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

ON SELECT THE SAE GRADE OIL BASED THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE

BEFORE NEXT OIL CHANGE

30 I SAE

HOT

WEATHER ;F

k 100

+60 - - + 1 6

+32 - - 0 0 -- -18 -20 - -29

COLD

WEATHER

---I ---I

SAE 15W-40 PREFERRED above 0°F (- 18%)

SAE low* 830

DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

SAE 15W-40 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 15W-40 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be colder than 32°F (0°C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, below 0°F (-I 8OC), you should use SAE 1,0W-30 to improve cold starting. Also, SAE 30 may be used at temperatures above freezing, 32°F (0°C). These numbers on the oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 10W-40 or SAE 2OW-50.

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This doughnut-shaped logo (symbol) is used on most oil containers to help you select the correct oil. You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that display the logo. GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

0 Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km). 0 It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles

(16 km).

0 The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door-to-door

delivery, or in stop-and-go traffic).

0 You tow a trailer often. 0 Most trips are through dusty places.

The vehicle is frequently operated off-road.

If any of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 2,500 miles (4 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles (8 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer‘? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Air Cleaner

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

NOTICE: If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

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.-. - 1 To remove the air cleaner filter on a gas engine or a 6.5 liter naturally aspirated diesel, turn the wing nuts to the left. Remove the cover and change the filter.

Then, unhook the cover retaining clips and push the rear of the cover toward the engine.

Automatic Transmission Nuid

When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose t o have this done at a GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be SLIK to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

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I NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).

At high speed for quite a while.

0 In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.

While pulling a trailer.

IU get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). To check trunsmissioltfluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (1 0°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), drive the vehicle in “D” (3rd Gear) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures. To check trmzsnzissiorz jZuid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F ( 10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

To check the fluid hot or cold

Park your vehicle on a level place. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in “P” (Park). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds position the shift lever in “ P ’ (Park). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

in each range. Then,

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Then, .without shutting ofithe engine, follow these steps:

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all

the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides

of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level

is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the COLD area for a cold check or the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much tluid, generally less than a pint. Don’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111 or DEXRON@-IIE, because fluids with that label are made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-Ill or DEXRON@-IIE is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Fluid

When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at a GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.

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Then, follow these steps:

I. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole. 3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If

the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. I . Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the

fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch in your vehicle is self-adjusting. A slight amount of play (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) in the pedal is normal.

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When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid.

See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

How to check The proper fluid should be ridded if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place i n the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Hydraulic Clutch Grease Fitting If you have a five speed manual transmission with deep low (RPO MT8), a grease fitting is located on the clutch housing for lubricating the clutch fork ball stud. See your Maintenance Schedule for when to lubricate the clutch housing. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper lubricant to use. Be sure not to over-fill because you could damage your clutch. Rear Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four- Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication.

Transfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

Front Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” i n the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. If the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch ( 12 mm) below the filler plug hole.

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What to use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your vehicle will:

Give freezing protection down to -20 OF (-29”C), or -34°F (-37°C) in Canada and for vehicles with the cold climate option. Give boiling protection up to 258 OF ( 125 O C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean wuter (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 6038-M,” which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to “GM Specification 6038-M” with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

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I NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

Some conditions, such as air trapped in the cooling system, can affect the coolant level in the radiator. Check the coolant level when the engine is cold and follow the steps under “Adding Coolant” for the proper way to add coolant. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Adding Coolant -Gas Engines

The coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger side at the rear corner of the engine compartment.

To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at COLD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to HOT, or a little higher.

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To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tunk.

A CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

A CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Adding Coolant -Diesel Engines

The coolant surge tank is located on the passenger side at the rear corner of the engine compartment.

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To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be above the COLD mark.

If this light comes on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the surge tnnk, but only when the engine is cool. Open the air bleed valve on the thermostat housing to allow trapped air out of the system. Close the bleed valve when coolant begins to flow out.

I A CAUTION:

nrning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out: and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.

A CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

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Radiator Pressure Cap-Gas Engines

The radiator pressure cap must be tightly installed with the arrows on the cap lined up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

NOTICE: Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

Surge Tank Pressure Cap- Diesel Engines

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NOTICE: Your surge tank pressure cap is a unique 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap for use with surge tank cooling systems only. It must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the top tube of the coolant surge tank.

Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC" thermostat is recommended. Power Steering Fluid

NOTICE: Always turn the engine off before checking or adding power steering fluid. The power steering pump cap is close to the fan and other moving parts.

How To Check Power Steering Fluid

Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick.

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When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the FULL mark. When the engine compartment is cool, the level