2007 GMC Savana Owners Manual

We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

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Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.

California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.

Doing Your Own Service Work

{CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,

and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 96. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 413.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 437.

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Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 289 for additional information.

Fuel If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System” in the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this. Gasoline Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep your engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, GM recommends the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 386. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel E85
(85% Ethanol) on page 290. In all other gasoline engines, use only regular unleaded gasoline.

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California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 178. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel.

However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.

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Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer for service.

Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 386. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel on page 288. In all other engines, use only the unleaded gasoline described under Gasoline Octane on page 288.

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Only vehicles that have the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z) may use 85% ethanol fuel (E85). General Motors encourages the use of E85
in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops. Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (www.eere.energy.gov/ afdc/infrastructure/locator.html) that can help you find E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. By definition, this means that fuel labeled E85 will have an ethanol content between 70% and 85%. Filling the fuel tank with fuel mixtures that do not meet ASTM specifications can affect driveability and could cause the check engine light to come on.

To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E85, it may be because your E85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to your fuel tank may improve starting. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. It is best not to alternate repeatedly between gasoline and E85. If you do switch fuels, it is recommended that you add as much fuel as possible — do not add less than three gallons (11 L) when refueling. You should drive the vehicle immediately after refueling for at least seven miles (11 km) to allow the vehicle to adapt to the change in ethanol concentration. E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to refill your fuel tank more often when using E85 than when you are using gasoline. See Filling the Tank on page 292.

Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85 fuel and may harm your vehicle’s fuel system. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.

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The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver side of the vehicle.

If the vehicle has E85 fuel capability, a yellow cap with the words “E85/gasoline” can be seen. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.

Filling the Tank

{CAUTION:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.

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{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure

Notice: to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 178.

If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 380. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 178.

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Checking Things Under the Hood

{CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine or fuel operated heater (FOH) parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine or fuel operated heater (FOH).

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

{CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved

containers.

(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.

(cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.

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Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located in front of the driver’s side door frame near the floor.

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up the secondary hood release, which is located underneath the middle of the hood.

3. Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its

retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood.

If your vehicle has an underhood lamp, it will automatically come on and stay on until the hood is closed. Before closing the hood, be sure all of the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Let the hood down and close it firmly.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you lift the hood, here is what you will see:

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A. Battery. See Battery on page 323. B. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure

Cap on page 309.

C. Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System

on page 311.

D. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 303.

E. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine

Oil” under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 297.

F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 297.

G. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air

Cleaner/Filter on page 302.

H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power

Steering Fluid on page 317.

I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake

Fluid” under Brakes on page 319.

J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 318.

Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Oil” in the DURAMAX® Diesel Engine Supplement. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296
for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper

towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

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When to Add Engine Oil

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.

If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 393. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use

These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Look for two things: • GM6094M

Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. • SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.

You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.

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When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light will come on. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 183. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

Engine Oil Life System (Gasoline Engine) When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.

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How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a change engine oil light being turned on, reset the system. To reset the change engine oil light, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the

engine off.

2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal

slowly three times within five seconds.

3. If the Change Engine Oil light flashes for

five seconds, the system is reset.

4. Turn the key to LOCK. If the change engine oil light comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. If it still does not reset, see your dealer for service. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 183.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

The engine air cleaner/filter is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for more information on location.

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When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (85 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. Never use compressed air to clean the filter. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Unhook the retainer clips and remove

the cover.

2. Lift the filter out of the engine air cleaner/filter housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services (Gasoline Engine) on page 402, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409.

3. Clean the engine air cleaner/filter housing. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter.

Make sure that the filter fits properly into the housing.

5. Reinstall the cover and fasten the

retaining clips.

{CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire

Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

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To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: • When outside temperatures are above

90°F (32°C).

• At high speed for quite a while. • • While pulling a trailer.

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift

lever in PARK (P).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). 4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes

or more.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The transmission dipstick is located near the center of the engine compartment and will be labeled with the graphic shown.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296
for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds

and then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409. Using a funnel, add fluid down the transmission dipstick tube only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409. • After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.

• When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 309. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: • Give freezing protection down to

−34°F (−37°C).

• Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). • Protect against rust and corrosion. • Help keep the proper engine temperature. • Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, radiator and fuel operated heater (FOH) corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant.

If you use an improper coolant

Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409 for more information.

If you use extra inhibitors and/or

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Checking Coolant for Gasoline Engines If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Checking Coolant” under “Van Models” in the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement for information on checking your vehicle’s coolant.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

The coolant recovery tank is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296
for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD FILL mark, or a little higher.

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{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 311.

Radiator Pressure Cap The radiator pressure cap is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for more information on location. Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.

If the pressure cap is not tightly

Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 178 for more information.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

If your engine catches fire because

Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: • Climb a long hill on a hot day. • Stop after high-speed driving. • Idle for long periods in traffic. • Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under

Towing a Trailer on page 266.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in

NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest

fan speed and open the windows as necessary.

Cooling System If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Van Models” under “Cooling System” in the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement. When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Engine Cooling Fan(s) If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down.

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When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD FILL mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

{CAUTION:

Heater, fuel operated heater (FOH), radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

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Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank for Gasoline Engines If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank” under “Van Models” in the Cooling System section of the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement for the proper coolant fill procedure. If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the COLD FILL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 306
for more information.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer

fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.

(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in

your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

In cold weather, water can freeze and

Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

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{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot components in the engine compartment. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine or components in the engine compartment.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the COLD FILL mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator for Gasoline Engines If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “How to Add Coolant to the Radiator” under “Van Models” in the Cooling System section of the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement for the proper radiator fill procedure.

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1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap

when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now

push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 306 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

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4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the

COLD FILL mark.

5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank,

but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can

feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the

radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time

during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap.

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Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch partially disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.

Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296
for reservoir location.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine

compartment cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the

reservoir clean.

3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Then remove the cap again and look at

the fluid level on the dipstick.

The level should be at the COLD FILL mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. To prevent contamination of brake fluid, never check or fill the power steering reservoir with the brake master cylinder cover off. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer

fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.

(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in

your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

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So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399. Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine and/or fuel operated heater parts, if equipped. If your vehicle has a diesel engine and a fuel operated heater, see “Fuel Operated Heater (FOH)” in the diesel engine supplement. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

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Look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 380.

(cid:127)

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

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Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

or ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 324 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

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Ignoring these steps could result in

Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a

12-volt battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a

Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper

cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles.

Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

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4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+)

and negative (−) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind a red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive bracket on the driver’s side of the engine compartment, below the alternator. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover. The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the engine drive bracket on all V8 engines and is marked GND (Ground). On V6 engines the remote negative (−) terminal is located on a tab attached to the engine accessory drive bracket and is marked GND (Ground).

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

326

{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

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7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect

it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal for this purpose. It is marked GND. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery

and run the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead

battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover

to its original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or

Remote Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and

Remote Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

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All-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409.

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

If you have the 1500 Series, the proper level is from 5/8 inch (15 mm) to 1 5/8 inch (40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 2500 and 3500 Series is from 0 to 1/4 (6 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399.

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Noise Control System Tampering with Noise Control System Prohibited The following information relates to compliance with federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States.

How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant.

When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 3/8 inch (10 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409.

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Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof: 1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any

person, other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or

2. The use of the vehicle after such device or

element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation: • Removal of the noise shields or any

underhood insulation.

Engine: • Removal or rendering engine speed governor,

if the vehicle has one, inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.

Fan and Drive: • Removal of fan clutch, if the vehicle has one,

or rendering clutch inoperative.

• Removal of the fan shroud, if the vehicle

has one. Air Intake: • Removal of the air cleaner silencer. • Modification of the air cleaner. Exhaust: • Removal of the muffler and/or resonator. • Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust

pipe clamps.

Fuel Operated Heater (FOH) — Diesel Engine: • Removal of the muffler.

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Headlamps To remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle and access the bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on

page 295 for more information.

2. Remove the two bolts from the headlamp

assembly.

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 338. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

3. Remove the two pins on the top of the

headlamp assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin clockwise and pull it straight up. To remove the inner pin, turn it counterclockwise and pull it straight up.

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4. Lift the inboard side of the headlamp to release the inboard tab from the radiator support.

5. Lift the outboard side of the headlamp to release the outboard tab from the radiator support.

6. Lower the headlamp to allow the vertical

adjustor to clear the tie bar.

7. Turn the headlamp forward and upward to

remove it from the grille.

8. Turn the bulb connector counterclockwise and

pull it out of the housing.

9. Without removing the headlamp assembly

itself, remove the bulb socket from the back of the headlamp on the driver’s side.

10. Turn the bulb counterclockwise one quarter

turn to remove it from the socket.

11. On the passenger’s side, turn the bulb

clockwise one turn.

12. Install the new bulb into the socket then reinstall it into the headlamp assembly.

13. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp

assembly.

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3. Remove the lamp from the grille. 4. Squeeze the tab on the side of the bulb socket while turning it counterclockwise.

5. Remove the bulb socket from the back of the

lamp assembly.

6. Replace the bulb. 7. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall it in

the lamp assembly.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) The center high-mounted stoplamp (CHMSL) is located above the rear doors at the center of the vehicle.

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps To replace the front turn signal, sidemarker and/or parking lamp bulb(s), do the following:

1. Use a small tool to unlatch the outboard clip

on the lamp.

2. Pull the lamp forward to completely unlatch the clip. Move the lamp outboard to loosen the tabs.

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To replace a bulb, do the following:

Taillamps To replace one of these bulbs, do the following:

1. Remove the

two inboard nuts from the inside of the taillamp assembly.

1. Remove the two screws from the CHMSL

assembly.

2. Remove the assembly. 3. Turn the bulb counterclockwise one quarter

turn to remove it from the socket.

4. Install a new bulb. 5. Reverse the steps to reinstall the assembly. If items are loaded on the roof of the vehicle, as in a luggage carrier, care should be taken not to block or damage the center high-mounted stoplamp unit.

2. Pull the taillamp assembly rearward to clear

the studs.

3. Slide the taillamp assembly slightly upward to

release the lower clip.

4. Remove the three nuts on the taillamp

assembly.

5. Remove the taillamp assembly from the

vehicle.

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Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp Back-up, Rear Parking, Stoplamp, and Turn Signal Lamp CHMSL Front Parking and Turn Signal Lamp Front Sidemarker Lamp Headlamps

Composite High-Beam Composite Low-Beam Sealed Beam Headlamp

Bulb Number

3157

912

3157KX

194

9005

9006GS H6054

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399 for more information on wiper blade inspection.

6. Remove the bulb socket by squeezing the tab

on the side of the socket while turning it counterclockwise.

7. Turn the bulb counterclockwise to remove it. 8. Install a new bulb. 9. Reverse the steps to reinstall the taillamp

assembly.

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Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. To remove the type with a release clip, do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical

position.

2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot

locking tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.

3. The insert has two notches at one end that

are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the

notched end last, into the end with two blade claws. Then slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end.

5. Make sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slot.

6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull it up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade

assembly into the windshield.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same

danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If

the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

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(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 356.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348
and Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

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Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual configuration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

(D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(E) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

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Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

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(A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the first two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.

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GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the