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ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 121


CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) DESCRIPTION


The cylinder head covers are made of die cast mag- nesium, and are not interchangeable from side-to- side. is imperative that nothing rest on the cylinder head covers. Prolonged contact with other items may wear a hole in the cylinder head cover.


It


CLEANING


Clean cylinder head cover gasket surface. Clean head rail, if necessary.


INSTALLATION


INSTALLATION - RIGHT SIDE


REMOVAL


REMOVAL - RIGHT SIDE


(1) Disconnect battery negative cable. (2) Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-


bly and air inlet hose.


(3) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -


STANDARD PROCEDURE).


(4) Remove accessory drive belt


(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).


(5) Remove air conditioning compressor retaining


bolts and move compressor to the left.


(6) Remove heater hoses. (7) Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors. (8) Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ven-


tilation (PCV) hose.


(9) Remove oil fill tube. (10) Un-clip injector and ignition coil harness and


move away from cylinder head cover.


(11) Remove right rear breather tube and filter


assembly.


(12) Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts. (13) Remove cylinder head cover.


NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.


REMOVAL - LEFT SIDE


(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery. (2) Remove the resonator assemble and air inlet


hose.


cover.


bolts.


(3) Disconnect injector connectors and un-clip the


injector harness.


(4) Route injector harness in front of cylinder head


assembly.


(5) Disconnect


the left side breather tube and


remove the breather tube.


(6) Remove the cylinder head cover mounting


(7) Remove cylinder head cover and gasket.


bolts.


NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.


CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers may occur.


CAUTION: DO NOT allow other components includ- ing the wire harness to rest on or against the engine cylinder head cover. Prolonged contact with other objects may wear a hole in the cylinder head cover.


(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-


faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.


(2) Install cylinder head cover and hand start all fasteners. Verify that all double ended studs are in the correct location shown in (Fig. 39).


Fig.39CylinderHeadCover—Right


ITEM


DESCRIPTION Cover Fasteners


TORQUE


12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)


(3) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double


ended studs to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs).


(4) Install right rear breather tube and filter


(5) Connect injector, ignition coil electrical connec-


tors and harness retaining clips.


(6) Install the oil fill tube. (7) Install PCV hose. (8) Install heater hoses. (9) Install air conditioning compressor retaining


(10) Install accessory drive belt


(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 122
CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) (Continued)


DR


(11) Fill Cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -


STANDARD PROCEDURE).


(12) Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-


bly and air inlet hose.


(13) Connect battery negative cable.


INSTALLATION—LEFT SIDE


CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers may occur.


CAUTION: DO NOT allow other components includ- ing the wire harness to rest on or against the cylin- der head cover. Prolonged contact with other objects may wear a hole in the engine cylinder head cover.


(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-


faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.


(2) Install cylinder head cover and hand start all fasteners. Verify that all studs are in the correct loca- tion shown in (Fig. 40).


Fig.40CylinderHeadCover—Left


ITEM


DESCRIPTION Cover Fasteners


TORQUE


12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)


(3) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double


ended studs to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).


(4) Install left side breather and connect breather


tube.


(5) Connect injector electrical connectors and injec-


tor harness retaining clips.


(6) Install the resonator and air inlet hose. (7) Connect negative cable to battery.


INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS DESCRIPTION


The valves are made of heat resistant steel and have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. Each valve is actuated by a roller rocker arm which pivots on a stationary lash adjuster. All valves use three bead lock keepers to retain the springs and promote valve rotation.


REMOVAL


NOTE: The cylinder heads must be removed in order to perform this procedure.


(1) Remove rocker arms and lash adjusters(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL). (Fig. 41).


Fig.41RockerArmRemoval


1 - CAMSHAFT 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516


(2) Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the


camshaft.


NOTE: All six valve springs and valves are removed in the same manner; this procedure only covers one valve and valve spring.


(3) Using Special Tool C-3422–B or C-3422–C tool 8519


Valve Spring Compressor and Special Adapter, compress the valve spring.


DR INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 123


NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks enough to be removed.


(4) Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.


NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.


(5) Remove the valve spring compressor. (6) Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.


NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper grooves. Remove any burrs from the valve stem before removing the valve from the cylinder head.


(7) Remove the valve from the cylinder head.


Fig.42TestingValveSprings


NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.


1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647


(8) Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for


proper installation.


TESTING VALVE SPRINGS


NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the cylinder head it the valve springs be inspected and tested for reuse.


is recommended that


Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 until surface is in line with the 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place spring over the stud on the table and lift compress- ing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give the spring load at test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. Refer to Specifications Section to obtain specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any springs that do not meet specifications (Fig. 42).


INSTALLATION


(1) coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and


insert it into the cylinder head.


(2) Install the valve stem seal. make sure the seal is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top of the seal is intact.


(3) Install the spring and the spring retainer (Fig.


43).


(4) Using the valve spring compressor, compress the spring and install the two valve spring retainer halves.


(5) Release the valve spring compressor and make sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring retainer are fully seated.


Fig.43ValveAssemblyConfiguration


1 - VALVE LOCKS (3–BEAD) 2 - RETAINER 3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL 4 - INTAKE VALVE 5 - EXHAUST VALVE 6 - VALVE SPRING


(6) lubricate the camshaft


then Position the camshaft


journal with clean engine oil (with the sprocket dowel on the left camshaft at 11 o’clock and the right camshaft at 12 o’clock), then position the camshaft bearing caps.


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 124
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)


DR


(7) Install


the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts 9–13 N·m (100 in. lbs.) in 1⁄2
turn increments in the sequence shown (Fig. 44).


Fig.44CamshaftBearingCapsTightening


Sequence


(8) Position the hydraulic


rocker arms.


lash adjusters and


ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSEMBLY DESCRIPTION


The rocker arms are steel stampings with an inte- gral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate a 2.8
mm (0.11 inch) oil hole in the lash adjuster socket for roller and camshaft lubrication.


DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER


A tappet-like noise may be produced from several


items. Check the following items.


(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be spongy.


(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin- der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be required.


(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has reached normal operating temperature.


(4) Low oil pressure.


(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.


(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked


oil pump pick up.


(7) Worn valve guides. (8) Rocker arm ears


retainer.


contacting valve


spring


(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-


mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.


(10) Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylin-


der head.


(11) Faulty lash adjuster. a. Check lash adjusters


sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily.


for


b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace. c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.


REMOVAL


NOTE: Disconnect the battery negative cable to pre- vent accidental starter engagement.


(1) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).


(2) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 3 and 5
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC exhaust stroke.


(3) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 2 and 8
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC compression stroke.


(4) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 4 and 6
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC compression stroke.


(5) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 1 and 7
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC compression stroke.


(6) Using special tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover, press downward on the valve spring, remove rocker arm (Fig. 45).


INSTALLATION


CAUTION: Make sure the rocker arms are installed with the concave pocket over the lash adjusters. Failure to do so may cause severe damage to the rocker arms and/or lash adjusters.


NOTE: Coat the rocker arms with clean engine oil prior to installation.


DR ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSEMBLY (Continued)


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 125


REMOVAL


(1) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).


(2) Using Special Tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover, remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash adjusters (Fig. 46).


Fig.45RockerArm—Removal


1 - CAMSHAFT 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516


(1) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 3 and 5 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC exhaust stroke.


(2) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 2 and 8 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC compression stroke.


(3) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 4 and 6 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC compression stroke.


(4) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 1 and 7 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC compression stroke.


(5) Using special tool 8516 press downward on the


valve spring, install rocker arm (Fig. 45).


(6) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).


VALVE SPRINGS DESCRIPTION


The valve springs are made from high strength chrome silicon steel. The springs are common for intake and exhaust applications. The valve spring seat is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a positive type seal to control lubrication.


Fig.46RockerArm—Removal


1 - CAMSHAFT 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516


(3) Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the


valve spring and seal are to be removed from.


(4) Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the


valves in place when the spring is removed


(5) Remove the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/


CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) - REMOVAL).


NOTE: All eight valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner; this procedure only covers one valve seal and valve spring.


(6) Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compres-


sor, compress the valve spring.


NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks enough to be removed.


(7) Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.


NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.


(8) Remove the valve spring compressor.


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 126
VALVE SPRINGS (Continued)


(9) Remove the spring retainer, and the spring. (10) Remove the valve stem seal.


NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.


INSTALLATION


(1) coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and install the valve stem seal. Make sure the seal is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top of the seal is intact.


(2) Install the spring and the spring retainer (Fig.


47).


(3) Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compres- sor, compress the spring and install the two valve spring retainer halves.


(4) Release the valve spring compressor and make sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring retainer are fully seated.


Fig.47ValveAssemblyConfiguration


1 - VALVE LOCKS (3–BEAD) 2 - RETAINER 3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL 4 - INTAKE VALVE 5 - EXHAUST VALVE 6 - VALVE SPRING


(5) Install the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ INSTALLA-


CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) TION).


(6) Position the hydraulic


lash adjusters and


rocker arms (Fig. 46).


(7) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).


DR


VALVE STEM SEALS DESCRIPTION


The valve stem seals are made of rubber and incor- porate an integral steel valve spring seat. The inte- gral garter spring maintains consistent lubrication control to the valve stems.


ENGINE BLOCK DESCRIPTION


The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to the block. The block design allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included in the cast aluminum front cover.


STANDARD PROCEDURE—CYLINDER BORE HONING


Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft area.


(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim- its.


CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove cylinder wall glaze.


(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin- der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf- ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from major oil distributors.


CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.


DR ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)


(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern. The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (Fig. 48).


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 127


INSPECTION


(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE- MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 49).


Fig.48CYLINDERBORECROSSHATCHPATTERN 1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN 2 - INTERSECT ANGLE


(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross- hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross- hatch angle.


(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter- gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint- free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.


CLEANING


Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-


ket surfaces.


Use compressed air to clean out: † The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole. † The front and rear oil galley holes. † The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings. Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N·m (177 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N·m (240 in. lbs.) torque.


Fig.49BOREGAUGE-TYPICAL


1 - FRONT 2 - BORE GAUGE 3 - CYLINDER BORE 4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)


(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen- dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft and then take two additional reading.


(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore, then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore. (4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller


diameter from the larger diameter.


(5) Rotate measuring device 90° and repeat steps


above.


(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the


difference between each measurement.


(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.


9 - 128


ENGINE - 4.7L


DR


CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS STANDARD PROCEDURE - CONNECTING ROD BEARING FITTING


Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and bent alignment tabs (Fig. 50). Check the bearings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and pitting (Fig. 51). Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.


Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of


scoring, nicks and burrs.


Fig.50LockingTabInspection


1 - ABNORMAL CONTACT AREA CAUSED BY LOCKING TABS NOT FULLY SEATED OR BEING BENT


Fig.51ScoringCausedbyInsufficientLubrication


orDamagedCrankshaftJournal


Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con- necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to any of these components indicate the probability of a misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con- necting rods.


(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal. (2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install


in connecting rod.


(3) Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins Special Tool 8507 (Fig. 52) to install the rod and pis- ton assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must face front of the engine. The “F”’s near the piston wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine.


Fig.52PistonandConnectingRod-Installation


1 - “F” TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE 2 - OIL SLINGER SLOT 3 - RING COMPRESSOR 4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8507


(4) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas- tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen- ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.


(5) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the journal and tighten bolts to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.


(6) Remove the bearing cap and determine amount of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the width of compressed Plastigage (Fig. 53). Refer to Engine Specifications for the proper clearance. Plas- tigage should indicate the same clearance across the entire width of the insert. If the clearance varies, it may be caused by either a


DR CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS (Continued)


tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign material trapped between the insert and cap or rod.


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 129


Fig.53MeasuringBearingClearancewith


Plastigage


1 - PLASTIGAGE SCALE 2 - COMPRESSED PLASTIGAGE


(7) If the correct clearance is indicated, replace- ment of the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove the Plastigage from crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Proceed with installation.


(8) If bearing-to-journal


the specification, determin which services bearing set to use the bearing sizes are as follows:


clearance exceeds


Bearing


Mark


.025 US


SIZE


USED WITH


JOURNAL SIZE


.025 mm (.001 in.)


50.983-50.967 mm (2.0073-2.0066 in.)


Std.


STANDARD


50.992-51.008 mm (2.0076-2.0082 in.)


.250 US


.250 mm (.010 in.)


50.758-50.742 mm (1.9984-1.9978 in.)


(9) Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify


your bearing selection prior to final assembly.


(10) Once you have selected the proper insert, install the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn.


Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the con- necting rod and crankshaft journal flange (Fig. 54). Refer to Engine Specifications for the proper clear- ance. Replace the connecting rod if the side clearance is not within specification.


Fig.54CheckingConnectingRodSideClearance-


Typical


CORE PLUGS REMOVAL


(1) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-


ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).


(2) Using a blunt tool such as a drift or a screw driver and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the cup plug (Fig. 55)


Fig.55EngineCorePlugRemoval


1 - CYLINDER BLOCK 2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS 3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER 4 - DRIFT PUNCH 5 - CUP PLUG


(3) Using a suitable pair of pliers, grasp the core


plug and remove.


DR


(4) Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan


gasket /windage tray.


(5) Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the


location of the three stud bolts for installation.


(6) Remove the connecting rods from the crankshaft.


CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on or damage this surface in anyway.


NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear- ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main bearing halves in the wrong position will cause sever damage to the crankshaft.


NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it. Use these points only. The pry points are on both the left and right sides, only the left side is shown.


(7) Carefully pry on the pry points (Fig. 56) to


loosen the bedplate then remove the bedplate.


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 130
CORE PLUGS (Continued) INSTALLATION


NOTE: Thoroughly clean core plug bore, remove all of the old sealer.


(1) Coat the edges of the engine core plug and the core plug bore with Mopar Gasket Maker, or equivalent.


NOTE: It is not necessary to wait for the sealant to cure on the core plugs. The cooling system can be filled and the vehicle returned to service immediately.


(2) Using proper plug driver, drive core plug into the core plug bore. The sharp edge of the core plug should be at least 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead in chamfer.


(3) Refill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-


ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).


CRANKSHAFT DESCRIPTION


The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron. The crankshaft is a crosshaped four throw design with eight counterweights for balancing purposes. The crank- shaft is supported by five select fit main bearings with the number three serving as the thrust washer location. The main journals of the crankshaft are cross drilled to improve rod bearing lubrication. The number eight counterweight has provisions for crankshaft position sensor target wheel mounting. The select fit main bear- ing markings are located on the rear side of the target wheel. The crankshaft oil seals are one piece design. The front oil seal is retained in the timing chain cover, and the rear seal is pressed in to a bore formed by the cylinder block and the bedplate assembly.


REMOVAL


NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine, the engine must be removed from the vehicle.


(1) Remove the engine. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -


REMOVAL).


(2) Remove the engine oil pump.(Refer to 9 -


ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).


CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted to the cylinder block in three locations and will remain attached to block when removing oil pan. Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.


(3) Remove oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-


CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).


Fig.56BedplatePryPointLocation


1 - CYLINDER BLOCK 2 - BEDPLATE 3 - PRY POINT


CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use care not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.


(8) Remove the crankshaft. (9) Remove the crankshaft target wheel.


DR CRANKSHAFT (Continued) INSPECTION


NOTE: Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bear- ing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blue- ing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may be required.


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 131


If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston and rod assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinder block main bearing bores show damage the engine must be replaced.


(1) If required, remove the main bearing halves


from the cylinder block and bedplate.


(2) Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all oil and sealant residue.


(3) Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition exists the engine must be replaced.


(4) Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scor- ing, scratches, wear or blueing. If either condition exist replace the thrust washer.


(5) Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces. Replace gasket as necessary.


INSTALLATION


CAUTION: Main bearings are select fit. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MAIN BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for proper bearing selections.


BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT


(1) Lubricate upper main bearing halves with


clean engine oil.


CAUTION: When installing crankshaft, use care not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.


NOTE: Apply sealant to the target wheel retaining screws prior to installation.


(2) Install the crankshaft target wheel. Torque the


mounting screws to 15 N·m (12 ft. lbs.).


(3) Position crankshaft in cylinder block. (4) Install the thrust washers (Fig. 57).


Fig.57CrankshaftThrustWasherInstallation


1 - CRANKSHAFT THRUST WASHER


NOTE: Make sure that the bedplate and cylinder block sealing surfaces are clean and free of oil or other contaminants. Contaminants on the sealing surfaces may cause main bearing distortion and/or oil leaks.


(5) Apply a 2.5mm (0.100 inch) (Fig. 58) bead of Mopart Gen II Silicone Rubber Adhesive sealant to the cylinder block-to-bedplate mating surface as shown (Fig. 59).


CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mateing surface must be coated with sealant prior to instal- lation. Failure to do so will cause severe oil leaks.


NOTE: The installation time to install the bedplate after the sealant has been applied is critical.


Fig.58CuttingAplicatortoAchieve2.5mm(0.100in.)


Bead


1 - CUT HERE


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 132
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)


DR


(8) Measure crankshaft end play.


(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT - STAN- DARD PROCEDURE).


(9) Install the connecting rods and measure side clearance. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/ CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).


(10) Position the oil pan gasket/windage tray, using a new o-ring, install the oil pickup tube. Torque the bolt to 28N·n (20 ft. lbs.) torque the nuts to 28N·m (20 ft. lbs.).


(11) Install the oil pan. Torque the retaining bolts to


15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig. 61).


Fig.61OilPanTighteningSequence


(12) Install the engine (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -


INSTALLATION).


Fig.59CylinderBlock-to-Bedplate


SealentBeadLocation


1 - CYLINDER BLOCK 2 - SEALANT BEAD LOCATION


(6) Coat


the crankshaft main bearing journals with clean engine oil and position the bedplate onto the cylinder block.


NOTE: Lubricate the bedplate retaining bolts with clean engine oil prior to installation.


(7) Install the bedplate retaining bolts, making sure to place the stud bolts in the correct location, Torque the bolts in the sequence shown (Fig. 60). † Tighten bolts A – L to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) † Tighten bolts 1–10 to 2.8 N·m (25 in. lbs.) † Turn bolts 1–10 an additional 90°. † Tighten bolts A1– A6 to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)


1 - BEDPLATE


Fig.60BedplateTighteningSequence 2 - CYLINDER BLOCK


DR


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 133


CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS STANDARD PROCEDURE—CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING - FITTING


MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)


Crankshaft removed from the cylinder block. Clean the oil off the main bearing journal. Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each end of the journal.


The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004
inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.002
inch). Compare the measured diameter with the jour- nal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.


CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION


The main bearings are “select fit” to achieve proper oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crank- shaft position sensor target wheel has grade identifi- cation marks stamped into it (Fig. 62). These marks are read from left to right, corresponding with jour- nal number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. The crankshaft position sensor target wheel is mounted to the number 8
counter weight on the crankshaft.


NOTE: Service main bearings are coded. These codes identify what size (grade) the bearing is.


MAIN BEARING SELECTION CHART—4.7L


GRADE


MARKING


SIZE mm


(in.)


FOR USE WITH


JOURNAL SIZE


0.008 mm


63.488–63.496 mm


U/S


(0.0004 in.)


(2.4996–2.4999 in.)


U/S


NOMINAL


63.496–63.504 mm (2.4999–2.5002 in.)


0.008 mm


63.504–63.512 mm


O/S


(0.0004 in.)


(2.5002–2.5005 in.)


O/S


INSPECTION


Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear patterns are illustrated (Fig. 63).


Fig.62MainBearingMarkingsonTargetWheel


1 - REARMOST CRANKSHAFT COUNTER WEIGHT 2 - TARGET WHEEL 3 - MAIN BEARING SELECT FIT MARKINGS


Fig.63MainBearingWearPatterns


1 - UPPER INSERT 2 - NO WEAR IN THIS AREA 3 - LOW AREA IN BEARING LINING 4 - LOWER INSERT


NOTE: If any of the crankshaft journals are scored, the crankshaft must be repaired or replaced.


Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrap-


ings or irregular wear patterns.


Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage. Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.


9 - 134


ENGINE - 4.7L


DR


CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT REMOVAL


(11) Using Special Tool 8511, remove crankshaft


front seal (Fig. 65).


(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery. (2) Remove accessory drive belt


(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).


(3) Remove A/C compressor mouning fasteners and


set aside.


(4) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -


STANDARD PROCEDURE).


(5) Remove upper radiator hose. (6) Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted


inside radiator shroud.


(7) Remove radiator shroud attaching fasteners.


NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud lower right hand corner.


(8) Remove radiator cooling fan and shroud (Refer - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -


to REMOVAL).


(9) Remove crankshaft damper bolt. (10) Remove damper using Special Tools 8513


Insert and 1026 Three Jaw Puller (Fig. 64).


Fig.65CrankshaftFrontSealRemoval


1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8511


INSTALLATION


CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crank- shaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512, thoroughly clean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose before installing Damper.


(1) Using Special Tool 8348 and 8512,


install


crankshaft front seal (Fig. 66).


(2) Install vibration damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTAL- LATION).


(3) Install radiator cooling fan and shroud (Refer - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -


to INSTALLATION).


(4) Install upper radiator hose. (5) Install A/C compressor and tighten fasteners to


54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.).


(6) Install accessory drive belt refer (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).


(7) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -


STANDARD PROCEDURE).


(8) Connect negative cable to battery.


Fig.64CrankshaftDamperRemoval


1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8513 INSERT 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 1026


DR CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 135


CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).


(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth.


CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.


(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis- assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.


(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).


BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT


REMOVAL


NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.


(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the


transmission.


(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/


ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).


NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused after removal.


NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal. Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.


Fig.66CrankshaftFrontSealInstallation


1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8348
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 8512


CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS


Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.


If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal


area:


(1) Disconnect the battery. (2) Raise the vehicle. (3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak:


(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates


seal leakage or crankshaft damage.


(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur- faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of these items. (4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank- case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 136
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)


(3) Using Special Tool 8506 (Fig. 67), remove the


crankshaft rear oil seal.


DR


(3) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle (Fig. 69), with a hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to tap on the driver handle until the seal installer seats against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.


Fig.67CrankshaftRearOilSealRemoval


1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8506


INSTALLATION


(1) Lubricate the crankshaft flange with engine oil. (2) Position the magnetic seal guide Special Tool 8349–2 (Fig. 68) onto the crankshaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the guide.


Fig.69CrankshaftRearOilSealInstallation


1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349–1 INSTALLER 3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4171 HANDLE


(4) Install the flexplate. (5) Install the transmission.


Fig.68CrankshaftRearOilSealGuideSpecialTool


8349–2andOil


1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349–2 GUIDE


DR


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 137


FLEX PLATE REMOVAL


(1) Remove the transmission. (2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.


INSTALLATION


(1) Position the flexplate onto the crankshaft and


install the bolts hand tight.


(2) Tighten the flexplate retaining bolts to 60 N·m


(45 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig. 70).


(3) Install the transmission.


STANDARD PROCEDURE—PISTON FITTING


(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl- inder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm ( .0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.


(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at a point 38.0 mm (1.5 inches) below top of bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft at point A and then take an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point B (Fig. 72).


(3) The coated pistons will be serviced with the


piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled.


(4) The coating material is applied to the piston after the final piston machining process. Measuring the outside diameter of a coated piston will not pro- vide accurate results (Fig. 71). Therefore measuring the inside diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial Bore Gauge is MANDATORY. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is required.


(5) Piston installation into


cylinder bore requires slightly more pressure than that required for non-coated pistons. The bonded coating on the piston will give the appearance of a line-to-line fit with the cylinder bore.


the


Fig.70FlexplateTighteningSequence


1 - FLEXPLATE


PISTON & CONNECTING ROD DESCRIPTION


CAUTION: Do not use a metal stamp to mark con- necting rods as damage may result, instead use ink or a scratch awl.


The pistons are made of a high strength aluminum alloy. The anodized top ring groove and crown has been replaced with a coated top ring that is blue in color on the bottom surface. Piston skirts are coated with a solid lubricant (Molykote) to reduce friction and provide scuff resistance. The connecting rods are made of forged powdered metal, with a “fractured cap” design. A pressed fit piston pin is used to attach the piston and connecting rod.


Fig.71DONOTMEASUREMOLYCOATEDPISTON 1 - MOLY COATED 2 - MOLY COATED


REMOVAL


(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery. (2) Remove the following components: † Oil pan and gasket/windage tray (Refer to 9 - † Cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -


ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 138
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)


DR


Fig.73IdentifyConnectingRodtoCylinder


Position—Typical


CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the fractured rod and cap joint face surfaces, as engine damage may occur.


(5) Remove connecting rod cap. Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod Guides into the connecting rod being removed. Remove piston from cylinder bore. Repeat this procedure for each piston being removed.


CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick crank- shaft journals, as engine damage may occur


(6) Immediately after piston and connecting rod removal, install bearing cap on the mating connect- ing rod to prevent damage to the fractured cap and rod surfaces.


(7) Carefully remove piston rings from piston(s),


starting from the top ring down.


CLEANING


CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire wheel or other abra- sive cleaning devise to clean the pistons or con- necting rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this coating must not be damaged.


(1) Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pis-


tons in warm water and towel dry.


(2) Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring


land grooves.


CAUTION: DO NOT remove the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.


INSPECTION


Check the connecting rod journal


for excessive wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN- GINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).


Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bend-


ing.


Fig.72BOREGAUGE-TYPICAL


1 - FRONT 2 - BORE GAUGE 3 - CYLINDER BORE 4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)


REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL). † Timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL). † Cylinder head(s) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN- DER HEAD - REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).


(3) If necessary, remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cylinder block. Be sure to keep tops of pis- tons covered during this operation. Pistons and connecting rods must be removed from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from the engine, rotate crankshaft so the each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.


CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch to mark connecting rods or caps, as damage to connecting rods could occur


NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be marked before removing to ensure correct reassembly.


(4) Mark connecting rod and bearing cap positions using a permanent ink marker or scribe tool (Fig. 73).


DR PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)


Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into the cylinder bore (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECT- ING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).


Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks and/or deterioration.


INSTALLATION


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 139


(5) The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore surface with an raised “F” indicating installation position. This mark must be pointing toward the front of engine on both cylinder banks. The connect- ing rod oil slinger slot faces the front of the engine (Fig. 75).


(1) Before installing piston and connecting rod


assemblies into the bore, install the piston rings.


(2) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston and rings. Tighten ring compressor. Ensure posi- tion of rings do not change during this opera- tion.


(3) Position bearing onto connecting rod. Ensure that hole in bearing shell aligns with hole in connect- ing rod. Lubricate bearing surface with clean engine oil.


(4) Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod


Guides into connecting rod bolt threads (Fig. 74).


Fig.75PISTONANDCONNECTINGROD


ORIENTATION


1 - MAJOR THRUST SIDE OF PISTON 2 - OIL SLINGER SLOT


(6) Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with


engine oil.


(7) Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal is on the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and pis- ton into cylinder bore and carefully position connect- ing rod guides over crankshaft journal.


(8) Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a ham- mer handle. While at the same time, guide connect- ing rod into position on rod journal.


Fig.74PISTONANDCONNECTINGROD


INSTALLATION


1 - “F” TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE 2 - OIL SLINGER SLOT 3 - RING COMPRESSOR 4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8507


CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened or removed.


(9) Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing. Tighten bolts to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) plus 90°.


DER HEAD - INSTALLATION).


(10) Install the following components: † Cylinder head(s). (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN- † Timing chain and cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).


DR


PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE


NOTE: Make sure the piston ring grooves are clean and free of nicks and burrs.


(5) Measure the ring side clearance as shown (Fig. 77)make sure the feeler gauge fits snugly between the ring land and the ring. Replace any ring not within specification.


Fig.77MeasuringPistonRingSideClearance


1 - FEELER GAUGE


(6) Rotate the ring around the piston, the ring


must rotate in the groove with out binding.


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 140
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued) † Cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION). † Oil pan and gasket/windage tray. (Refer to 9 - INSTALLA- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - TION).


(11) Fill crankcase with proper engine oil to cor-


rect level.


(12) Connect negative cable to battery.


PISTON RINGS STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON RING FITTING


Before reinstalling used rings or installing new


rings, the ring clearances must be checked.


(1) Wipe the cylinder bore clean. (2) Insert the ring in the cylinder bore.


NOTE: The ring gap measurement must be made with the ring positioned at least 12mm (0.50 inch.) from bottom of cylinder bore.


(3) Using a piston, to ensure that the ring is squared in the cylinder bore, slide the ring downward into the cylinder.


(4) Using a feeler gauge check the ring end gap (Fig. 76). Replace any rings not within specification.


Fig.76RingEndGapMeasurement-Typical


1 - FEELER GAUGE


DR PISTON RINGS (Continued)


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 141


PISTON RING SPECIFICATION CHART


least 45° from the side rail gaps, but not on the pis- ton pin center or on the thrust direction.


Ring Position


Groove


Upper Ring


Clearance .051-.094mm (0.0020- .0037


in.)


Maximum Clearance


0.11mm (0.004 in.)


Intermediate


0.04-0.08mm


0.10mm


Ring


(0.0016-0.0031


(0.004 in.)


Oil Control Ring


(Steel Rails)


in.)


.019-.229mm (.0007-.0090


in.)


Ring Position


Ring Gap


Upper Ring


0.20-0.36mm (0.0079-0.0142


in.)


.25mm


(0.010 in.)


Wear Limit


0.43mm


(0.0017 in.)


Intermediate


0.37-0.63mm


0.74mm


Ring


(0.0146-0.0249


(0.029 in.)


in.)


Oil Control Ring


(Steel Rail)


0.025-0.76mm (0.0099- 0.03


1.55mm (0.061 in.)


in.)


(7) The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a differ- ent cross section. Ensure No. 2 ring is installed with manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards top of the piston.


NOTE: Piston rings are installed in the following


order:† Oil ring expander. † Upper oil ring side rail. † Lower oil ring side rail. † No. 2 Intermediate piston ring. † No. 1 Upper piston ring. (8) Install the oil ring expander. (9) Install upper side rail (Fig. 78) by placing one end between the piston ring groove and the expander ring. Hold end firmly and press down the portion to be installed until side rail is in position. Repeat this step for the lower side rail.


(10) Install No. 2 intermediate piston ring using a


piston ring installer (Fig. 79).


(11) Install No. 1 upper piston ring using a piston


ring installer (Fig. 79).


(12) Position piston ring end gaps as shown in (Fig. 80). It is important that expander ring gap is at


Fig.78SideRail—Installation


1 - SIDE RAIL END


Fig.79UpperandIntermediateRings—Installation VIBRATION DAMPER REMOVAL


(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery. (2) Remove accessory drive belt


(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).


(3) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -


STANDARD PROCEDURE).


(4) Remove radiator upper hose. (5) Remove upper fan shroud. (6) Using Special Tools 6958 Spanner with Adapter loosen fan and viscous assembly from


Pins 8346, water pump (Fig. 81).


(7) Remove fan and viscous assembly. (8) Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted


inside radiator shroud.


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 142
VIBRATION DAMPER (Continued)


DR


Fig.80PistonRingEndGapPosition


1 - SIDE RAIL UPPER 2 - NO. 1 RING GAP 3 - PISTON PIN 4 - SIDE RAIL LOWER 5 - NO. 2 RING GAP AND SPACER EXPANDER GAP


Fig.81FANASSEMBLY-REMOVAL/ASSEMBLY 1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WRENCH WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346
2 - FAN


NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud lower right hand corner.


(9) Remove crankshaft damper bolt. (10) Remove damper using Special Tools 8513


Insert and 1026 Three Jaw Puller (Fig. 82).


Fig.82CRANKSHAFTDAMPER-REMOVAL


1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8513 INSERT 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 1026


INSTALLATION


CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crank- shaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512–A, thoroughly clean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose before installing Damper.


(1) Align crankshaft damper slot with key in


crankshaft. Slide damper onto crankshaft slightly.


CAUTION: Special Tool 8512–A, is assembled in a specific sequence. Failure to assemble this tool in this sequence can result in tool failure and severe damage to either the tool or the crankshaft.


(2) Assemble Special Tool 8512–A as follows, The nut is threaded onto the shaft first. Then the roller bearing is placed onto the threaded rod (The hard- ened bearing surface of the bearing MUST face the nut). Then the hardened washer slides onto the threaded rod (Fig. 83). Once assembled coat the threaded rod’s threads with Mopart Nickel Anti- Seize or (Loctite No. 771).


(3) Using Special Tool 8512–A, press damper onto


crankshaft (Fig. 84).


175 N·m (130 ft. lbs.).


(4) Install then tighten crankshaft damper bolt to


(5) Install fan blade assembly (Refer to 7 - COOL- ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - INSTALLATION).


DR VIBRATION DAMPER (Continued)


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 143


(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -


STANDARD PROCEDURE).


(11) Connect negative cable to battery.


STRUCTURAL COVER DESCRIPTION


The structural dust cover is made of die cast alu- minum and joins the lower half of the transmission bell housing to the engine bedplate.


OPERATION


The structural cover provides additional power-


train stiffness and reduces noise and vibration.


REMOVAL


(1) Raise vehicle on hoist. (2) Remove the left hand exhaust pipe from


exhaust manifold.


(3) Loosen the right hand exhaust manifold-to-ex-


haust pipe retaining bolts.


(4) Remove the eight bolts retaining structural


cover (Fig. 85) in the sequence shown.


(5) Pivot the exhaust pipe downward and remove


the structural cover.


Fig.85StructuralCover


1 - BOLT 2 - BOLT 3 - BOLT


INSTALLATION


CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as described in the following steps. Failure to do so will cause severe damage to the cover.


(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle. (2) Install all four bolts retaining the cover-to-en-


gine. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.


Fig.83PROPERASSEMBLYMETHODFOR


SPECIALTOOL8512–A


1 - BEARING 2 - NUT 3 - THREADED ROD 4 - BEARING HARDENED SURFACE (FACING NUT) 5 - HARDENED WASHER


Fig.84CrankshaftDamperInstallation


1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8512


(6) Install radiator upper shroud and tighten fas-


teners to 11 N·m (95 in. lbs.).


(7) Connect electrical connector for shroud fan. (8) Install radiator upper hose. (9) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL- ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL- LATION).


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 144
STRUCTURAL COVER (Continued)


(3) Install the four cover-to-transmission bolts. Do


NOT tighten at this time.


CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly against both the engine and the transmission bell housing during tightening sequence. Failure to do so may cause damage to the cover.


(4) Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Fig. 86) to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.), then tighten bolts (2) (Fig. 86) and (3) to 54 N·m ( 40
ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.


Fig.86StructuralCover


1 - BOLT 2 - BOLT 3 - BOLT


(5) Install the exhaust pipe on left hand exhaust


manifold.


(6) Tighten


exhaust manifold-to-exhaust retaining bolts to 20–26 N·m (15–20 ft. lbs.).


pipe


FRONT MOUNT REMOVAL


2WD


(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.


CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.


(2) Remove the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOL- ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - REMOVAL).


(3) Raise the vehicle. (4) Remove the engine oil filter. (5) Remove the oil drain trough.


DR


(6) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.


(7) Support the front axle with a suitable jack. (8) Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine


mounts to the front axle.


(9) Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle


to the left engine bracket.


(10) Lower the front axle. (11) Remove the through bolts (12) Raise the engine far enough to be able to


remove the left and right engine mounts.


(13) Remove the (8) mount to engine attaching


(14) Remove the engine mounts.


bolts


4WD


(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. (2) Remove the viscous fan. (3) Raise the vehicle. (4) Remove the skid plate. (5) Remove the front crossmember. (6) Remove the engine oil filter. (7) Remove the oil drain trough. (8) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.


(9) Support the front axle with a suitable jack. (10) Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine


mounts to the front axle (Fig. 87).


(11) Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle


to the left engine bracket.


(12) Lower the front axle. (13) Remove the (6) through bolts (14) Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left (Fig. 89) and right (Fig. 88) engine mounts.


(15) Remove the engine mounts.


INSTALLATION


2WD


NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply MoparT Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.


(1) Install the right and left side engine mounts to the engine block with (8) bolts. Torque bolts to 54
N·m (40 ft. lbs.).


(2) Insert the (2) through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.


(3) Lower the engine until the through bolts rest


onto the slots in the frame brackets.


(4) Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 N·m (70 ft.


lbs.).


DR FRONT MOUNT (Continued)


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 145


Fig.87ENGINEINSULATORMOUNTS4X4


1 - RH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT 2 - NUT 3 - PINION SUPPORT MOUNT 4 - LH INSULATOR MOUNT


5 - LH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT 6 - FRONT AXLE 7 - NUT 8 - RH INSULATOR MOUNT


(5) Install the oil drain trough. (6) Install the engine oil filter. (7) Lower the vehicle. (8) Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - REMOVAL).


(9) Reconnect the negative battery cable.


4WD


NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply MoparT Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.


(1) Install the right and left side engine mounts to


the front axle. Torque nuts to 94 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).


(2) Raise the front axle into the frame and install the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to 94 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).


(3) Insert the two upper through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.


Fig.88ENGINEMOUNTSUPPORTBRACKETRH 1 - BOLT 2 - ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET


ENGINE - 4.7L


9 - 146
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)


DR


(4) Lower the engine until the left and right side engine brackets rest on the through bolts, and the lower engine bracket through holes align with the engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes align with the front axle slots (Fig. 90).


(5) Loose assemble the (3) bolts that attach the


front axle to the left engine bracket.


(6) Loose assemble the lower through bolts. (7) Torque the nuts for the (4) through bolts to 101


N·m (75 ft. lbs.).


(8) Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle


to the left engine bracket to 101 N·m (75 ft. lbs.).


(9) Install the oil drain trough. (10) Install the engine oil filter. (11) Install the front crossmember. (12) Install the skid plate. (13) Lower the vehicle. (14) Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOL- ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - REMOVAL).


(15) Reconnect the negative battery cable.


Fig.89ENGINEMOUNTSUPPORTBRACKET

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