2002 Chevrolet Tracker Owners Manual

3. Remove the top air filter, then lift out the lower filter. 4. Reverse the steps to install the new filters. Once you remove the filter, if you choose not to replace it, it will not damage your vehicle. However, the air will no longer be filtered.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50_F (10_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The automatic transmission dipstick has a red ring handle located in the rear of the engine compartment toward the center of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your transmission fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Chevrolet dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

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Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of

the filler plug hole.

3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure

it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated.

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Hydraulic Clutch It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. How to Check and Add Fluid You do not need to check the fluid level unless you suspect a clutch problem. To check the fluid level, look at the markings on the reservoir. If the fluid reaches the MAX line, the fluid level is correct. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” and “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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Four-Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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Front Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” and “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -33_F (-36_C). D Give boiling protection up to 258_F (125_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half coolant that meets GM Specification 1825-M, which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to GM Specification 1825-M with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant.

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NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant

The coolant recovery tank is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at LOW, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL, or a little higher.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see “Cooling System” in the Index.

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Radiator Pressure Cap

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for information on location.

NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a 15.6 psi (110 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

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Power Steering Fluid When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location.

How To Check Power Steering Fluid You can check your fluid without taking the cap off. The level should fall between the MIN and MAX marks on the reservoir. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

NOTICE:

When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system.

If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Checking Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

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NOTICE:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for battery location. WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.

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Bulb Replacement For the type of bulbs, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs

Headlamps

CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

A. Headlamp B. Front Parking and Turn Signal Lamps

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To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood.

2. Remove the rubber

cover and socket from the headlamp.

3. Release the retainer clip holding the bulb by pressing down and moving the metal retainer away from you.

4. Pull the bulb out of the fixture. 5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.

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Sidemarker Lamps To replace the sidemarker bulb, do the following:

1. Remove the two screws holding the sidemarker lamp assembly. The assembly should pull away from the vehicle.

2. Turn the socket counterclockwise and pull it out

of the housing.

3. Pull the bulb out of the socket. 4. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.

Front Parking and Turn Signal Lamps To replace the parking and turn signal bulb, do the following: 1. See “Headlamps” for location.

2. Locate the turn signal bulb. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out

of the lamp housing.

4. Push the bulb in, turn it counterclockwise and pull

the bulb straight out of the socket.

5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.

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Rear Combination Lamps

To remove the rear combination bulbs, do the following:

A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Back-Up Lamp C. Brake Lamp

Driver’s Side

Passenger’s Side

1. Remove the two screws from the combination lamps.

Gently pull the housing away from the vehicle.

2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out

of the lamp housing.

3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. 5. Reinstall the housing and the screws.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Chevrolet Warranty booklet for details.

CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

D Overinflated tires are more likely to be

cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

D Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label, which is on the driver’s door lock pillar, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy

NOTICE: (Continued)

NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

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When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

D You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged

deep enough to show cord or fabric. D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.

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Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Used Replacement Wheels

CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

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Tire Chains

NOTICE:

Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the drive axle (four-wheel-drive vehicles can use chains on both axles). Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover

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They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too. Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: D Alcohol D Laundry Soap D Bleach D Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.

Here are some cleaning tips: D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. D Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. D Carefully scrape off any excess stain. D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the

entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.

Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate

the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge

to remove any excess cleaner.

6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened

towel or cloth.

7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

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Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to

dry completely.

3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.

You may have to do it more than once.

D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if

you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your

dealer for this product.

D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

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Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.

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Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

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Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.

NOTICE:

Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.

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The plastic windows are pliable and can be scratched if you don’t take these precautions when you clean them: D Wipe off dust with a soft cotton cloth moistened with

clean, cool or lukewarm water. Don’t use a “dry” cloth. Wipe in one direction only, not back and forth.

D To remove frost, snow or ice, use lukewarm water.

Don’t use a scraper or any de-icing fluids.

D Wash the windows with a soft cloth and clean, cool or lukewarm water. Never use a dry cloth, hot water, strong soap or detergent, solvents or harsh cleaning agents. Rinse thoroughly and wipe with a slightly moist soft, clean cloth.

D Don’t put any labels, stickers or tape on windows.

It’s hard to remove adhesives left on the window when such items are removed. If a sticker or label must be removed, remove any adhesive left on the window while the adhesive is still soft and sticky. Press on a new sticker or piece of tape and then lift it off again; keep doing this until all the adhesive lifts off with the sticker or tape.

Special Care for Canvas Top and Plastic Windows Your canvas top should be cleaned often. If you use an automatic car wash, use one with water jets and hanging cloths. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. When you hand wash the top, do it in partial shade. Use a mild soap, lukewarm water and a soft sponge. A chamois or cloth may leave lint on the top, and a brush can chafe the threads in the top fabric. Don’t use detergents, harsh cleaners, solvents or bleaching agents. Wet the entire vehicle and wash the top evenly to avoid spots or rings. Let the soap remain on the fabric for a few minutes. When the top is really dirty, use a mild foam-type cleaner. Thoroughly rinse the entire vehicle, then let the top dry in direct sunlight. To protect the canvas top: D After you wash the vehicle, make sure the top is

completely dry before you open or remove it.

D Don’t get any vinyl cleaner on the vehicle’s painted

finish; it could leave streaks.

D If you decide to go through an automatic car wash,

ask the manager if the equipment could damage your top.

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Cleaning Aluminum Wheels (If Equipped) Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.

NOTICE:

When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.

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Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, Chevrolet will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

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GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

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Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.

Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.

Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label inside the glove box on the door. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: D your VIN, D the model designation, D paint information and D a list of all production options and

special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

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Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment

NOTICE:

Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.

Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by fuses, circuit breakers and thermal links in the wiring itself. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the copper-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the correct size. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette lighter -- and use its fuse, if it is the size you need. Replace it as soon as you can. Before replacing a fuse, turn every vehicle electrical switch off. There are two fuse blocks in your vehicle: the instrument panel fuse block and the engine compartment fuse block.

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Instrument Panel Fuse Block

Fuse P/W DOM TAIL

HAZ IG

CIG

Usage Power Windows Dome Light, Radio Memory License Plate Light, Clearance/Marker Lights, Instrument Panel Illumination, Warning Tone Hazard Lights, Turn Signal O2 Sensor Heater, Cruise Control, Ignition Coil, Meter, G Sensor Cigar/Cigarette Lighter, Radio, Power Mirror

This fuse block is located under the driver’s side of the instrument panel. The fuses here protect each separate circuit including headlamps. There are spare fuses inside the fuse box. If you have electrical failure, check here first.

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Fuse D/L STP

FOG DEF

S/H TRN

WIP

Usage Door Locks Brake Light, Horn, Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp, Cruise Control Not Used Rear Window Defogger, DRL, Heater, Air Conditioning Not Used Turn Signal, Back-Up Light, Hazard Lights Windshield Wiper/Washer, Rear Window Wiper/Washer

Fuses for the air bags are located next to the instrument panel fuse block.

Engine Compartment Fuse Block

The engine compartment fuse block is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle and protects all electrical loads. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. For access to the main fuses, pull off the cover.

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Fuse Usage

10

Cigar Lighter, Radio, I.G. Coil, Meter, Wiper, Washer, Rear Defroster, Turn Signals, Back-Up Lamps Anti-Lock Brake System All Electrical Loads Air Conditioning

Replacement Bulbs Lamps Back-up Lamp Front Parking and Turn Signal Headlamp (Halogen)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bulb Number 921
1157 NA

. . . . . . . . . . .

High Beam

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

Low Beam

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rear Hazard and Turn Signal Rear Parking and Brake

. . . . .

GM Part No. 91174685
or equivalent GM Part No. 91174687
or equivalent 921
GM Part No. 91174349
or equivalent 194

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Sidemarker

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fuse Usage

Accessory Power Outlet Electronic Fuel Injection System Right Headlamp Left Headlamp, High-Beam Indicator Heater Hazard Lamps, Rear Combination Lamps, Dome Light, Horn

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For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Capacities and Specifications The following approximate capacities are given in English and metric conversions. Cooling System 1.6L Engine (Canada Only) 2.0L Engine 2.5L Engine Engine Oil with Filter 1.6L Engine (Canada Only) 2.0L Engine 2.5L Engine Fuel Tank Two-Door Convertible Four-Door Hardtop

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . .

4.4 quarts (4.2 L)** 5.5 quarts (5.2 L)** 5.8 quarts (5.5 L)**

5.8 quarts (5.5 L) 6.9 quarts (6.5 L) 8.5 quarts (8.0 L)

14.8 U.S. gallons (56 L) 16.9 U.S. gallons (64 L)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.6 quarts (2.5 L)*

1.6 quarts (1.5 L)* 2.0 quarts (1.9 L)*

Automatic Transmission Drain and Refill Manual Transmission Four-Wheel Drive Two-Wheel Drive Differential Front Rear Transfer Case

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.1 quarts (1.0 L)* 2.3 quarts (2.2 L)* 1.8 quarts (1.7 L)

*Recheck fluid level after filling. See “Automatic Transmission Fluid” or “Manual Transmission Fluid” in the Index. **When changing the oil filter, additional oil may be needed. Recheck the oil level after filling. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.

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Engine Specifications 1.6L Engine Specifications (Canada Only) VIN Engine Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Type

L4

2.0L Engine Specifications VIN Engine Code Type

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

L4

2.5L Engine Specifications VIN Engine Code Type

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

V6

Air Conditioning Refrigerant Capacity If you do your own service work, you’ll need the proper service manual. See “Doing Your Own Service Work” in the Index for additional information. It is recommended that service work on your air conditioning system be performed by a qualified technician. Air Conditioning

Refrigerant R134a

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.9 lbs. (0.4 kg)

Use Referigant Oil, R134a Systems

Wheel and Tires Wheel Nut Torque Tire Pressure

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

69 lb-ft (95 N·m) See the Tire-Loading Information label. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

. . . .

GM Part No. 30025009
or equivalent

Engine Oil Filter

1.6L Engine (Canada Only) 2.0L Engine

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.5L Engine

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

Passenger Compartment

Air Filter

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

GM Part No. 25011520
or equivalent (PF-53) GM Part No. 91173772
or equivalent GM Part No. 91176162
or equivalent

GM Part No. 91175923
or equivalent

PCV Valve

1.6L Engine (Canada Only) 2.0L Engine

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.5L Engine

Spark Plugs

1.6L Engine (Canada Only)

2.0L/2.5L Engine

GM Part No. 96068664
or equivalent GM Part No. 91174516
or equivalent GM Part No. 91176183
or equivalent

. . . . . . . . . . . .

GM Part No. 91173854, 91176053 or 91173855
DENSO SK20PR-A11 or NGK IFR6E11
Gap: 0.043 inch (1.1 mm) GM Part No. 91176020, 91173854 or 91173855
DENSO SK16PR11 or NGK IFR5J11
Gap: 0.043 inch (1.1 mm)

. . . . . . .

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Section 7 Maintenance Schedule

This section covers the maintenance required for your vehicle. Your vehicle needs these services to retain its safety, dependability and emission control performance.

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7-4
7-9
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Introduction Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance

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7-49
7-51
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Part B: Owner Checks and Services Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants Part E: Maintenance Record

7-

7-1

Introduction Your Vehicle and the Environment Proper vehicle maintenance not only helps to keep your vehicle in good working condition, but also helps the environment. All recommended maintenance procedures are important. Improper vehicle maintenance can even affect the quality of the air we breathe. Improper fluid levels or the wrong tire inflation can increase the level of emissions from your vehicle. To help protect our environment, and to keep your vehicle in good condition, please maintain your vehicle properly. Maintenance Requirements Maintenance intervals, checks, inspections and recommended fluids and lubricants as prescribed in this manual are necessary to keep your vehicle in good working condition. Any damage caused by failure to follow recommended maintenance may not be covered by warranty.

Have you purchased the GM Protection Plan? The Plan supplements your new vehicle warranties. See your Warranty and Owner Assistance booklet or your dealer for details.

7-2

How This Section is Organized This maintenance schedule is divided into five parts: “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services” explains what to have done and how often. Some of these services can be complex, so unless you are technically qualified and have the necessary equipment, you should let your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center do these jobs.

CAUTION:

Performing maintenance work on a vehicle can be dangerous. In trying to do some jobs, you can be seriously injured. Do your own maintenance work only if you have the required know-how and the proper tools and equipment for the job. If you have any doubt, have a qualified technician do the work.

If you want to get the service information, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.

“Part B: Owner Checks and Services” tells you what should be checked and when. It also explains what you can easily do to help keep your vehicle in good condition. “Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections” explains important inspections that your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center should perform. “Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” lists some recommended products necessary to help keep your vehicle properly maintained. These products, or their equivalents, should be used whether you do the work yourself or have it done. “Part E: Maintenance Record” is a place for you to record and keep track of the maintenance performed on your vehicle. Keep your maintenance receipts. They may be needed to qualify your vehicle for warranty repairs.

7-3

Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services Using Your Maintenance Schedule We at General Motors want to help you keep your vehicle in good working condition. But we don’t know exactly how you’ll drive it. You may drive very short distances only a few times a week. Or you may drive long distances all the time in very hot, dusty weather. You may use your vehicle in making deliveries. Or you may drive it to work, to do errands or in many other ways. Because of all the different ways people use their vehicles, maintenance needs vary. You may need more frequent checks and replacements. So please read the following and note how you drive. If you have any questions on how to keep your vehicle in good condition, see your dealer. This part tells you the maintenance services you should have done and when you should schedule them. If you go to your dealer for your service needs, you’ll know that GM-trained and supported service people will perform the work using genuine GM parts.

7-4

The proper fluids and lubricants to use are listed in Part D. Make sure whoever services your vehicle uses these. All parts should be replaced and all necessary repairs done before you or anyone else drives the vehicle. These schedules are for vehicles that: D carry passengers and cargo within recommended limits. You will find these limits on your vehicle’s Tire-Loading Information label. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

D are driven on reasonable road surfaces within legal

driving limits.

D are driven off-road in the recommended

manner. See “Off-Road Driving With Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle” in the Index. D use the recommended fuel. See “Fuel” in

the Index.

Selecting the Right Schedule First you’ll need to decide which of the two schedules is right for your vehicle. Here’s how to decide which schedule to follow:

Scheduled Maintenance

Short Trip/City Definition

Short Trip/City Intervals

Follow the Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance if any one of these conditions is true for your vehicle: D Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is

particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent

driving in stop-and-go traffic).

D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top

of your vehicle.

D If the vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi

or other commercial application.

One of the reasons you should follow this schedule if you operate your vehicle under any of these conditions is that these conditions cause engine oil to break down sooner.

Every 3,000 Miles (5 000 km): Engine Oil and Filter

Change (or 3 months, whichever occurs first).

Every 6,000 Miles (10 000 km): Passenger

Compartment Air Filter Inspection (If Equipped). Tire Rotation.

Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Engine Air Cleaner

Filter Inspection, if driving in dusty conditions. Front Wheel Bearing Repack (2WD only) (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first). Automatic Transmission Service (severe conditions only). Manual Transmission Fluid Change. Transfer Case Fluid Change. Differential Fluid Change. Valve Lash (Clearance) Adjustment (1.6L Code 6 engine only). Propeller Shafts and U-Joints Inspection (or every 15 months, whichever occurs first).

(Continued)

7-5

Scheduled Maintenance

Short Trip/City Intervals

Short Trip/City Intervals

Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Engine Air Cleaner

Filter Replacement. Passenger Compartment Air Filter Replacement (If Equipped). Ignition Coil Plug Cap Inspection (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). Engine Accessory Drive Belt Inspection (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). Cooling System Service (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines Inspection. Fuel Filter Replacement (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first).

Every 45,000 Miles (75 000 km): Automatic

Transmission Fluid Hose Inspection (or every 45 months, whichever occurs first).

Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Fuel Tank Cap

Gasket Replacement. Emission System Hoses Inspection. Camshaft Timing Belt Replacement (1.6L Code 6 engine only). Brake Fluid Service. Spark Plug Replacement. Spark Plug Wire Replacement (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).

At 90,000 Miles (150 000 km): Camshaft Timing Belt

Inspection (1.6L Code 6 engine only).

Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Automatic

Transmission Service (normal conditions).

Every 120,000 Miles (200 000 km): Evaporative

Emissions Canister and Air Suction Filter Replacement (or every 120 months, whichever occurs first). Engine Accessory Drive Belt Replacement (or every 120 months, whichever occurs first).

These intervals only summarize maintenance services. Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance on the following pages.

7-6

Scheduled Maintenance

Long Trip/Highway Definition

Long Trip/Highway Intervals

Follow this scheduled maintenance only if none of the conditions from the Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance are true. Do not use this schedule if the vehicle is used for trailer towing, driven in a dusty area or used off paved roads. Use the Short Trip/City schedule for these conditions. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower.

Every 7,500 Miles (12 500 km): Engine Oil and Filter

Change (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first). Tire Rotation.

Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Automatic

Transmission Service (severe conditions only). Passenger Compartment Air Filter Inspection (If Equipped). Valve Lash (Clearance) Adjustment (1.6L Code 6 engine only). Propeller Shafts and U-Joints Inspection (or every 15 months, whichever occurs first).

7-7

Scheduled Maintenance

Long Trip/Highway Intervals

Long Trip/Highway Intervals

Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Engine Accessory

Drive Belt Inspection (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). Cooling System Service (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines Inspection. Engine Air Cleaner Filter Replacement. Passenger Compartment Air Filter Replacement (If Equipped). Ignition Coil Plug Cap Inspection (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). Front Wheel Bearing Repack (2WD only) (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first). Manual Transmission Fluid Change. Transfer Case Fluid Change. Differential Fluid Change. Fuel Filter Replacement (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first).

Every 45,000 Miles (75 000 km): Automatic

Transmission Fluid Hose Inspection (or every 45 months, whichever occurs first).

Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Fuel Tank Cap

Gasket Replacement. Emission System Hoses Inspection. Camshaft Timing Belt Replacement (1.6L Code 6 engine only). Spark Plug Replacement. Spark Plug Wire Replacement (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first) (1.6L Code 6 engine only). Brake Fluid Service.

At 90,000 Miles (150 000 km): Camshaft Timing Belt

Inspection (1.6L Code 6 engine only).

Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Automatic

Transmission Service (normal conditions).

Every 120,000 Miles (200 000 km): Evaporative

Emissions Canister and Air Suction Filter Replacement (or every 120 months, whichever occurs first).

These intervals only summarize maintenance services. Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance on the following pages.

7-8

Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance

The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles (166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles (166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life of this vehicle. The service shown at 120,000 miles (200 000 km) should be repeated at the same interval after 120,000 miles (200 000 km) for the life of this vehicle. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” following.

Footnotes [ The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded. # Lubricate the parking brake lever and cable, suspension system and propeller shafts and steering wheel linkage. + A good time to check your brakes is during tire rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C of this schedule.

7-9

Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance

3,000 Miles (5 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

An Emission Control Service.

6,000 Miles (10 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

An Emission Control Service.

j If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment air filter. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

9,000 Miles (15 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

An Emission Control Service.

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

SERVICED BY:

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

7-10

Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance

12,000 Miles (20 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

An Emission Control Service.

j If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment air filter. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

15,000 Miles (25 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

An Emission Control Service.

j Inspect engine air cleaner filter if you are driving in dusty conditions.

Replace filter if necessary. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote [.)

j For Two-Wheel-Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel

bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).

(Continued)

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

7-11

Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance

15,000 Miles (25 000 km) (Continued) j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly

driven under one or more of these conditions: – In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly

reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher. – In hilly or mountainous terrain. – When doing frequent trailer towing. – Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).

j Change manual transmission fluid. j Change transfer case fluid. j Change differential fluid. j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).

An Emission Control Service.

j Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness and damage (or every

15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts if necessary.

7-12

Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance

18,000 Miles (30 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

An Emission Control Service.

j If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment air filter. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

21,000 Miles (35 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

An Emission Control Service.

24,000 Miles (40 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

An Emission Control Service.

j If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment air filter. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

SERVICED BY:

7-13

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

SERVICED BY:

Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance

27,000 Miles (45 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).