2002 Chevrolet Tracker Owners Manual

The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water

NOTICE:

If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Driving Through Flowing Water

CAUTION:

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and the other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

D Have good tires with proper tread depth.

See “Tires” in the Index.

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City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: D Know the best way to get to where you are

going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”

D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.

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At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit.

The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Chevrolet dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

Here are some things you can check before a trip: D Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?

Are all windows clean inside and outside?

D Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? D Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked

all levels?

D Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? D Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,

trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

D Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?

D Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated,

with a comfortably cool interior.

D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently.

D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest,

service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. See “Off-Road Driving” in the Index for information about driving off-road. D Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

D Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

CAUTION:

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

D Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.

D Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane

roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving: D Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

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Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to brake very gently, too. If you do have anti-lock, see “Anti-Lock” in the Index. This system improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Whether you have the anti-lock braking system or not, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without anti-lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can. Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you’ll just slide. Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer. D Whatever your braking system, allow greater following

distance on any slippery road.

D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

D Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that

you’ve been stopped by the snow.

D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: D Turn on your hazard flashers.

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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

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Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle -- such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: D What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?

Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

D How far will you tow? Some vehicles have

restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.

D Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations.

D Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would

prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See “Before Leaving on a Long Trip” in the Index.

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Dinghy Towing Four-Wheel-Drive Only To tow your vehicle from the front (four-wheel-drive only), do the following:

NOTICE:

If your vehicle is a two-wheel drive model, do not tow it on all four wheels. If you do, your transmission could be damaged and the damage would not be covered by your warranty.

Follow these steps: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Shift your automatic transmission into PARK (P),

or your manual transmission to SECOND (2).

3. With the ignition key in the ON position, move the

transfer case to NEUTRAL and make sure the 4WD light on the instrument panel cluster is off. See “Four-Wheel Drive” in the Index.

4. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock the

steering wheel.

5. Release the parking brake.

NOTICE:

If you tow your four-wheel-drive vehicle from the front, make sure to move the transfer case into NEUTRAL or your vehicle could be badly damaged and the damage would not be covered by your warranty.

Stop towing every 200 miles (300 km) and start the engine. Leave the transfer case shift lever in NEUTRAL. Shift your automatic transmission to DRIVE (D); leave a manual transmission in SECOND (2) with the clutch engaged. Run the engine at medium speed for one minute to circulate oil in the transfer case. Turn the ignition key to ACC. Now, you can continue towing your vehicle.

NOTICE:

The front wheels transmit shocks during towing. The steering column may not be strong enough to withstand the shocks. Always unlock the steering wheel before towing.

NOTICE:

Make sure that the towing speed does not exceed 55 mph (90 km/h), or your vehicle could be badly damaged.

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Dolly Towing To tow your vehicle from the rear, do the following:

CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in Park (P), for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

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The best way to tow your vehicle is from the rear. Follow these steps: 1. Put the rear wheels on a dolly.

NOTICE:

NOTICE:

Make sure that the towing speed does not exceed 55 mph (90 km/h), or your vehicle could be badly damaged.

Do not tow your vehicle with the rear wheels in contact with the ground, or the transmission could be damaged.

CAUTION:

2. If your vehicle is a four-wheel-drive vehicle, turn the ignition key to ON, move the transfer case lever into NEUTRAL and make sure the 4WD light on the instrument panel cluster is turned off. See “Four-Wheel Drive” in the Index.

3. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock the

steering wheel.

4. Make sure the front wheels are facing straight forward and secure the steering wheel with a steering wheel clamping device designed for towing.

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL.

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Loading Your Vehicle

Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The tire-loading information label found on the driver’s door lock pillar tells you the proper size and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle.

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The other label is the certification label, also found on the driver’s door lock pillar. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 400 lbs. (181 kg) in your rear area when four people are in your two-wheel-drive vehicle. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, don’t carry more than 200 lbs. (91 kg) in your rear area when four people are in your vehicle.

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

NOTICE:

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. D Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle.

Try to spread the weight evenly.

D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint

in your vehicle.

D When you carry something inside the

vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

D Don’t leave a seat folded down unless

you need to.

If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

There’s also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” in the Index.

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Your vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

Towing a Trailer

CAUTION:

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

NOTICE:

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: D There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

D Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch

dealer about sway controls.

D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you

tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

D If you have an automatic transmission, you can use THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission. If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use the highest gear.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: D the weight of the trailer, D the weight of the trailer tongue D and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg) for two-door models and 1,500 lbs. (680 kg) for four-door models. But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:

Chevrolet Chevrolet Customer Assistance P.O. Box 33170
Detroit, MI 48232-5170

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In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

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If you’re using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the tire-loading information label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: D If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could

be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.

D Will you have to make any holes in the body of your

vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index. Dirt and water can, too.

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Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. D Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. If it does, both systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.

D Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa)

of pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle.

D If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

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Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring (included in the optional trailering package). The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. If you are towing a trailer and you have a manual transmission with FIFTH (5) gear, you may prefer not to use FIFTH (5). Just drive in FOURTH (4) (or, as you need to, a lower gear).

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Parking on Hills

CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual transmission. 2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.

5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL.

6. Release the regular brakes.

CAUTION:

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: D start your engine, D shift into a gear, and D release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

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Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating

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Cooling System If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

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Hazard Warning Flashers

The hazard warning flasher is located on the instrument panel near the comfort controls.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. Press this button to make the front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off. Press the button again to turn the flashers off. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: D They contain acid that can burn you. D They contain gas that can explode or ignite. D They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. The ACDelcoR battery in your vehicle has a built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

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2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminal locations on each battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

CAUTION:

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

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CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelcoR battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to a positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

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7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

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9. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and

run the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

NOTICE:

Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index.

Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

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Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” in the Index. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. D Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (B) or DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

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Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. Don’t reach through the grille to release the underhood lever.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Engine Cooling Fan C. Radiator Pressure Cap D. Auxiliary Cooling Fan (If Equipped)

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CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

The coolant level should be at or above FULL. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant.

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CAUTION:

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the FULL mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. Fill the radiator with the proper coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the FULL mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank,

but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

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6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the

upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever

in PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).

CAUTION: (Continued)

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CAUTION: (Continued)

3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle,

be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL.

4. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

2. Turn the jack screw to remove the jack from the clamps. If the screw is too tight, use the jack handle to loosen it.

The jack, wheel wrench and jack handle are stowed in the rear left corner of the luggage compartment. 1. To open the jacking tool storage compartment,

turn the knob counterclockwise. Open the cover two inches and pull the entire cover towards the front of the vehicle.

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The spare tire is mounted on your tailgate. Your vehicle may be equipped with either a soft, vinyl cover or a hard cover.

3. To remove the hard cover from the spare tire, insert your key into the wheel lock and pull the wheel lock off.

The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A), jack handle (B) and wheel wrench (C).

Hard Cover

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4. Using the wheel wrench, remove the wheel cover nut. Gently pry the spare tire cover off the wheel.

Vinyl Cover

5. If your vehicle is equipped with a vinyl cover, unzip the cover to find the wheel lock. Insert the key into the wheel lock and pull it off.

6. Using the wheel wrench, remove the wheel nut under

the lock.

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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

7. Remove the remaining wheel nuts with the

wheel wrench.

8. Remove the spare tire from the mounting bracket

and place it near your flat tire.

1. If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, loosen them by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise to find the wheel nuts.

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Front Wheel Location

Rear Wheel Location

2. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts

but don’t remove them yet.

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3. Under the vehicle near each wheel, there are knobs

in the vehicle’s frame. Position the jack and raise the jack lift head until it fits firmly onto the knobs nearest to the flat tire.

CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle

clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit underneath the wheel well.

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5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

6. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

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CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

7. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

8. Reinstall the wheel nuts

with the cone-shaped end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

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10. Tighten the wheel nuts

firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.

NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

When you reinstall the full-size wheel and tire, you must also reinstall the plastic nut caps. 11. Tighten the plastic nut caps by hand. Then tighten them one half turn with the wheel wrench. Do not overtighten the nut caps or they may break.

CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 69 lb-ft (95 N·m).

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Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

1. Store your vehicle’s flat or spare tire by mounting it

on the tailgate.

NOTICE:

Ensure that the wheel balance weight is on the lower left section of the tire in order to allow proper installation of the spare wheel cover.

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2. Put the top two wheel nuts back on with the

wheel wrench.

3. Put the spare tire cover back on, if equipped. Using the wheel wrench, put the wheel cover nut back on.

4. Put the spare wheel lock back on, if equipped and

lock it.

Put the jack, jack handle and wheel wrench back into the storage area. To stow the jack, place it in the storage bracket and turn the shaft clockwise until the jack is securely held in place. Reinstall the trim cover by inserting the cover tabs into the slots. Push the cover closed and turn the knob clockwise to secure the cover.

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A. Wrench B. Jack Handle C. Jack

CAUTION:

Make sure the tire and carrier are secure. Driving with the tire or carrier unlatched could injure pedestrians or damage the vehicle.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

CAUTION:

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

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Using the Recovery Hooks

Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks. The hooks are provided at the front and rear of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have the four-speed automatic, see “Power Mode Selector Switch” in the Index for information on traction. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

NOTICE:

Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

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Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Passenger Compartment Air Filter (If Equipped) Automatic Transmission Fluid Manual Transmission Fluid Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement

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Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Special Care for Canvas Top and Plastic Windows Cleaning Aluminum Wheels (If Equipped) Cleaning Tires Finish Damage Underbody Maintenance GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

6-1

Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

6-2

CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it is bad enough, it can damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary.

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Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers’ Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the fuel pump.

Canada Only

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California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

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Filling Your Tank

CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

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The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the passenger’s side of your vehicle.

CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

While refueling, place the fuel cap in the holder provided. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into

approved containers.

D Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground.

D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

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Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. Don’t reach through the grille to release the underhood lever.

CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

1. Pull the release handle located on the driver’s side of the vehicle on the lower portion of the instrument panel.

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3. Lift the hood, release

the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood.

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle, pull up on the

hood, and push the hood release lever to your right.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then let the hood down and close it firmly.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 1.6L engine (Canada Only), you’ll see:

A. Engine Compartment Fuse Block B. Engine Air/Cleaner Filter C. Battery D. Engine Oil Dipstick

E. Radiator Pressure Cap F. Engine Oil Fill Cap G. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir

(If Equipped)

H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir I. Brake Fluid Reservoir J. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank K. Windshield Washer Reservoir

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When you open the hood on the 2.0L engine, you’ll see:

A. Engine Compartment Fuse Block B. Engine Air/Cleaner Filter C. Battery D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir

E. Radiator Pressure Cap F. Engine Oil Dipstick G. Engine Oil Fill Cap H. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir (If Equipped)

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I. Brake Fluid Reservoir J. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank K. Windshield Washer Reservoir

When you open the hood on the 2.5L engine, you’ll see:

A. Engine Compartment Fuse Block B. Engine Air/Cleaner Filter C. Battery D. Radiator Pressure Cap

E. Engine Oil Fill Cap F. Automatic Transmission Dipstick

(If Equipped)

G. Engine Oil Dipstick

H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir I. Brake Fluid Reservoir J. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank K. Windshield Washer Reservoir

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Engine Oil

If the engine oil pressure light appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.

For more information, see “Engine Oil Pressure Light” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The handle of the engine oil dipstick is a round, yellow ring. On the 1.6L engine, it is located near the front of the engine compartment towards the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

1.6L Engine (Canada Only)

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The handle of the engine oil dipstick is a round, yellow ring. On the 2.0L engine it is located near the center of the engine on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

The handle of the engine oil dipstick is a round, yellow ring. On the 2.5L engine it is located near the front of the engine compartment towards the driver’s side of the vehicle.

2.0L Engine

2.5L Engine

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

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When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the L (low) mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

1.6L Engine (Canada Only)

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil fill cap is located in the front of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

2.0L Engine

2.5L Engine

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

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When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: D Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is

particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent

driving in stop-and-go traffic).

D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top

of your vehicle.

D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi

or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 7.5 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

To check or replace the filter do the following:

1. Release the four clips

on the cover.

2. Lift the cover up.

The engine air cleaner/filter is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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3. Pull out the engine air cleaner/filter and check

or replace it.

4. Reinstall the cover and fasten the clips.

CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

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The access panel for the air filter is in the glove box. To replace the filter, follow these steps:

Passenger Compartment Air Filter (If Equipped) Passenger compartment air, both outside and recirculated air, is routed through a passenger compartment air filter. The filter removes certain contaminants from the air, including pollen and dust particles. Reductions in airflow, which may occur more quickly in dusty areas, indicate that the filter needs to be replaced early. An air filter is available through your dealer. For how often to change the air filter, see “Maintenance Schedule” in the Index.

1. Lower the glove box door to the second detent position. Push in the sides of the glove box to completely lower the door to allow access to the filters.

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2. Lift the top tab on the cover to remove the

filter cover.