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you can tell if the wheels are straight and can maneuver as you back down. It is best to back down the hill with the wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.


Things not to do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, when going up a hill:


. Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into


N (Neutral) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. The vehicle can roll backward very quickly and could go out of control.


. Never try to turn around if about to stall when


going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall the vehicle, it is steep enough to cause it to roll over. If you cannot make it up the hill, back straight down the hill.


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Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, consider: . How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to


maintain vehicle control?


. What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?


Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?


. Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs?


Boulders?


. What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden


creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?


If you decide you can go down a hill safely, try to keep the vehicle headed straight down. Use a low gear so engine drag can help the brakes so they do not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping the vehicle under control at all times.


If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake, put your transmission in P (Park), and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. If the vehicle has a transfer case with a N (Neutral) position, do not shift the transfer case to Neutral when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.


{ WARNING:


If the vehicle has the two‐speed automatic transfer case, shifting the transfer case to Neutral can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). This is because the Neutral position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to P (Park). But, if the vehicle has a two‐speed automatic transfer case, do not shift the transfer case to Neutral.


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Vehicles are much more likely to stall when going uphill, but if it happens when going downhill:


1. Stop the vehicle by applying the regular brakes


and apply the parking brake.


2. Shift to P (Park) and, while still braking, restart the


engine.


3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,


and drive straight down. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.


4.


{ WARNING:


Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.


Things not to do when driving down a hill:


. When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down might be too steep to drive across. The vehicle could roll over.


. Never go downhill with the transmission in


N (Neutral), called free-wheeling. The brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.


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. Surface conditions can be a problem. Loose


gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause the tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over.


. Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, the vehicle can tilt even more.


For these reasons, carefully consider whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. If you feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. The best way to prevent this is to “walk the course” first, so you know what the surface is like before driving it.


Driving Across an Incline An off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. To decide whether to try to drive across the incline, consider the following:


{ WARNING:


Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.


. A hill that can be driven straight up or down


might be too steep to drive across. When going straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when driving across an incline, the narrower track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — might not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels which could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.


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Stalling on an Incline


{ WARNING:


Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.


If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over. Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do not get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick, turning is more difficult, and braking distances are longer. It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck.


When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause it to slide out of control.


{ WARNING:


Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.


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Driving in Water


{ WARNING:


Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.


Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before driving through it. Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get through. Deep water can damage the axle and other vehicle parts.


If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When going through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it might take longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 5‑26. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. The vehicle requires more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.


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Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include:


. Drive defensively. . Do not drink and drive. . Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside


rearview mirror.


. Slow down and keep more space between you and


other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.


. Watch for animals. . When tired, pull off the road. . Do not wear sunglasses. . Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. . Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle


clean — inside and out.


. Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or


curves.


No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.


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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle's tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include:


. Allow extra following distance. . Pass with caution. . Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. . Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled. . Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires


on page 6‑63 . Turn off cruise control.


Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep‐standing or flowing water.


{ WARNING:


Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


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Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer before departing. Things to check on your own include:


. Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows


clean — inside and outside?


. Wiper Blades: In good shape?


Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to recommended pressure?


. Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have


up-to-date maps?


Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include:


. Keep the vehicle well ventilated. . Keep interior temperature cool. . Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead


and to the sides.


. Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments


often.


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Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include:


. Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape. . Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling


system, and transmission.


. Going down steep or long hills, shift to a


lower gear.


{ WARNING:


If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.


{ WARNING:


Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.


. Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut


across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).


. Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks


area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action. See Off-Road Driving on page 5‑13 for information about driving off-road.


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Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 0°C (32°F) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.


The StabiliTrak® System on page 5‑6 improves the ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When driving through deep snow, turn off the traction control part of the StabiliTrak® System to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 5‑5
improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.


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Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Assistance Program on page 8‑7 . To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:


Turn on the Hazard Warning Flashers on page 4‑3 . Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.


{ WARNING:


Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. If the vehicle is stuck in the snow: . Clear away snow from around the base of


your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe.


. Check again from time to time to be sure


snow does not collect there.


(Continued)


WARNING: (Continued)


. Open a window about 5 cm (two inches) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air. Fully open the air outlets on or under the instrument panel.


. Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting


that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.


For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 3‑52. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust.


Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful.


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To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat. Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel. If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 5‑32.


If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle's traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.


{ WARNING:


If the vehicle's tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 55 km/h (35 mph) as shown on the speedometer.


For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 6‑86.


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Recovery Hooks


{ WARNING:


These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.


Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive vehicles, shift into Four‐Wheel High or, if the vehicle has a two‐speed automatic transfer case, Four‐Wheel Low. For vehicles with StabiliTrak®, turn the traction control part of the system off. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. Recovery hooks can be used, if the vehicle has them. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 5‑43.


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Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.


{ CAUTION:


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


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Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. For vehicles with recovery hooks at the front of the vehicle, you can use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.


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Tire and Loading Information Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver's door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.


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The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 6‑63 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6‑72 . There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle's placard.


2. Determine the combined weight of the driver


and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


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4. The resulting figure equals the available


amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).


6.


5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 5‑50 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.


Example 1


Item


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight @ 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


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Example 2


Example 3


Item


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight @ 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


Item


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


750 lbs (136 kg)


250 lbs (113 kg)


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight @ 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


0 lbs (0 kg)


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Refer to your vehicle's tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle's capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle's capacity weight. Certification/Tire Label


Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle.


A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver's door. The label shows the size of your vehicle's original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called


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The Certification/Tire label also contains information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.


{ CAUTION:


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


Notice : Overloading the vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Do not overload the vehicle. The label will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry.


Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


{ WARNING:


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. . Put things in the cargo area of your


vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.


. Never stack heavier things, like


suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. . Do not leave an unsecured child restraint


in your vehicle.


(Continued)


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WARNING: (Continued)


. When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


. Do not leave a seat folded down unless


you need to.


There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving on page 5‑13 .


Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment Before installing a snow plow on your vehicle, here are some things you will need to know: Notice: If your vehicle does not have the snow plow prep package, adding a plow can damage your vehicle, and the repairs would not be covered by warranty. Unless your vehicle was built to carry a snow plow, do not add one to your vehicle. If your vehicle has the snow plow prep package, called RPO VYU, then the payload your vehicle can carry


will be reduced when a snow plow is installed. Your vehicle can be damaged if either the front or rear axle ratings or the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) are exceeded. Some vehicles are built with a special snow plow prep package, called RPO VYU. If your vehicle has this option, you can add a plow to it, provided certain weights, such as the weights on the vehicle's axles and the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW), are not exceeded. The plow your vehicle can carry depends on many things, such as:


The options your vehicle came with, and the weight of those options. The weight and number of passengers you intend to carry. The weight of items you have added to your vehicle. The total weight of any additional cargo you intend to carry.


Say, for example, you have a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow. The total weight of all occupants and cargo inside the cab should not exceed 300 lb (135 kg). This means that you may only be able to carry one passenger. But, even this may be too much if you have got other equipment already adding to the weight of your vehicle.


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Front axle reserve capacity is the difference between your front Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the front axle weight of your vehicle with full fuel and passengers. Basically, it is the amount of weight you can add to your front axle before reaching your front GAWR. The front axle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the Certification/Tire label, as shown.


United States


Canada


Here are some guidelines for safely carrying a snow plow on your vehicle:


. Make sure the weight on the front and rear axles


does not exceed the axle rating for each. For the front axle, if more cargo or passengers must be carried, appropriate counter ballast must be installed rear of the rear axle. Counter ballast must be properly secured so it will not move during driving. Follow the snow plow manufacturer's recommendations regarding rear ballast. Rear ballast may be required to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual weight at the front axle may be less than the front axle rating. The snow plow manufacturer or installer can assist you in determining the amount of rear ballast required, to help make sure your snowplow/vehicle combination does not exceed the GVW rating, the front and rear axle ratings, and the front and rear weight distribution ratio. The total vehicle must not exceed the GVW rating.


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In order to calculate the amount of weight any front accessory, such as a snow plow, is adding to the front axle, use the following formula:


For example, adding a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow actually adds more than 700 lbs (318 kg) to the front axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft (122 cm) in front of the front axle and the wheel base is 10 ft (305 cm), then:


W = 700 lb (318 kg) A = 4 ft (122 cm) W.B. = 10 ft (305 cm)


(W x (A + W.B.))/W.B. = (700 x (4 + 10))/10 = 980 lbs (445 kg) So, if your vehicle's front axle reserve capacity is more than 980 lbs (445 kg), you could add the snow plow without exceeding the front GAWR.


(W x (A + W.B.)) /W.B.= Weight the accessory is adding to the front axle. Where:


W = Weight of added accessory A = Distance that the accessory is in front of the front axle W.B. = Vehicle Wheelbase


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You can add heavier equipment on the front of the vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear GAWR, and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) must never be exceeded.


{ WARNING:


On some vehicles that have certain front mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it may be possible to load the front axle to the front gross axle weight rating (GAWR) but not have enough weight on the rear axle to have proper braking performance. If your brakes can not work properly, you could have a crash. To help your brakes work properly when a snow plow is installed, always follow the snow plow manufacturer or installer's recommendation for rear ballast to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual front weight may be less


(Continued)


WARNING: (Continued)


than the front GAWR, and the total vehicle weight is less than the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). Maintaining a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio is necessary to provide proper braking performance.


Total vehicle reserve capacity is the difference between your GVWR and the weight of your vehicle with full fuel and passengers. It is the amount of weight you can add to your vehicle before reaching your GVWR. Keep in mind that reserve capacity numbers are intended as a guide when selecting the amount of equipment or cargo your vehicle can carry. If you are unsure of your vehicle's front, rear, or total weight, go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can also help you with this. The total vehicle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the Certification/ Tire label as shown previously. See your dealer for additional advice and information about using a snow plow on your vehicle. Also, see Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑33.


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Emergency Roof Lamp Provisions Vehicles with the RPO VYU snow plow prep package also have an emergency roof lamp provision package, RPO TRW. Wiring for the emergency roof lamp is provided above the overhead console. See Auxiliary Roof-Mounted Lamp on page 4‑14 for switch location. Towing


Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 8‑7 . To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes, such as behind a motorhome, see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing If the vehicle has a two–mode hybrid engine, see the Two–mode Hybrid manual for more information. Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing. Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly. Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing:


. What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?


Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.


. What is the distance that will be travelled? Some


vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Is the proper towing equipment going to be used? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 5‑27.


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Dinghy Towing Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles and Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Single Speed Automatic Transfer Case


Notice: If the vehicle is towed with all four wheels on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Do not tow the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles and four-wheel drive vehicles with a single speed automatic transfer case shoul d not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. Four-wheel drive vehicles with a single speed automatic transfer case have no neutral position and will spin the transmission when the rear wheels turn.


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Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Two Speed Automatic Transfer Case


{ WARNING:


Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle's transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). The driver or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral).


4. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting


into Neutral” under “Four-Wheel Drive” for the proper procedure to select the Neutral position for the vehicle.


5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle


being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.


6. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF and remove the


key — the steering wheel will still turn.


After towing, see “Shifting Out of Neutral” under “Four-Wheel Drive” for the proper procedure to take the vehicle out of the Neutral position.


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Use the following procedure to dinghy tow a four-wheel drive vehicle with a two speed automatic transfer case:


1. Position the vehicle being towed behind the tow


vehicle and shift the transmission to P (Park). 2. Turn the engine off and firmly set the parking


brake.


3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow


vehicle.


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Dolly Towing Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles and Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Single Speed Automatic Transfer Case


Notice: If a two-wheel drive vehicle or a four-wheel drive vehicle with a single speed automatic transfer case is towed with the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Never tow the vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles and four-wheel drive vehicles with a single speed automatic transfer case should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. Four-wheel drive vehicles with a single speed automatic transfer case have no neutral position and will spin the transmission when the rear wheels turn. To dolly tow a two‐wheel‐drive vehicle or a four-wheel drive vehicle with a single speed automatic transfer case, the vehicle must be towed with the rear wheels on the dolly. See “Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)” later in this section for more information.


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Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Two Speed Automatic Transfer Case


{ WARNING:


Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle's transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). The driver or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral).


5. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting


into N (Neutral)” under “Four-Wheel Drive”. 6. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the


manufacturer's instructions.


7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle


being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.


8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.


After towing, see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under “Four-Wheel Drive”.


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Use the following procedure to dolly tow a four-wheel drive vehicle from the front:


1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the


dolly manufacturer's instructions.


2. Drive the front wheels onto the dolly. 3. Shift the transmission to P (Park). 4. Firmly set the parking brake.


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Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)


Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles and Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Single Speed Automatic Transfer Case Use the following procedure to dolly tow the vehicle from the rear:


1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the


dolly manufacturer's instructions.


2. Drive the rear wheels onto the dolly.


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3. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake


on page 3‑48 .


4. Put the transmission in P (Park). 5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the


manufacturer's instructions.


6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for


towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.


7. For four-wheel drive vehicles with a single speed


automatic transfer case, turn the transfer case knob to the Two-Wheel High position.


8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.


Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Two Speed Automatic Transfer Case Use the following procedure to dolly tow a four-wheel drive vehicle from the rear:


1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the


dolly manufacturer's instructions.


2. Drive the rear wheels onto the dolly. 3. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake


on page 3‑48 .


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4. Put the transmission in P (Park). 5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the


manufacturer's instructions.


6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for


towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.


{ WARNING:


Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle's transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). The driver or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral).


7. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting


into N (Neutral)” under “Four-Wheel Drive”.


8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.


After towing, see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under “Four-Wheel Drive”.


Level Control Automatic Level Control The automatic level control rear suspension is available on light‐duty vehicles and comes as a part of the Autoride® suspension, if equipped. This type of level control is fully automatic and will provide a better leveled riding position as well as better handling under a variety of passenger and loading conditions. An air compressor connected to the rear shocks will raise or lower the rear of the vehicle to maintain proper vehicle height. The system is activated when the ignition key is turned to ON/RUN and will automatically adjust vehicle height thereafter. The system may exhaust (lower vehicle height) for up to ten minutes after the ignition key has been turned off. You may hear the air compressor operating when the height is being adjusted. If a weight‐distributing hitch is being used, it is recommended to allow the shocks to inflate, thereby leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the hitch.


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Autoride® With this feature, improved vehicle ride and handling is provided under a variety of passenger and loading conditions. The system is fully automatic and uses a computer controller to continuously monitor vehicle speed, wheel to body position, lift/dive and steering position of the vehicle. The controller then sends signals to each shock absorber to independently adjust the damping level to provide the optimum vehicle ride. Autoride also interacts with the tow/haul mode that, when activated, will provide additional control of the shock absorbers. This additional control results in better ride and handling characteristics when the vehicle is loaded or towing a trailer. See “Tow/Haul Mode” under Towing a Trailer on page 5‑50 for more information.


Towing a Trailer If the vehicle has a two–mode hybrid engine, see the Two–mode Hybrid manual for more information. Do not tow a trailer during break‐in. See New Vehicle Break-In on page 3‑27 for more information.


{ WARNING:


The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.


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Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer.


Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


. Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later


in this section.


. Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles


(800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. Vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. If the vehicle has the Side Blind Zone Alert (SBZA) system and it doesn't seem to be working properly while pulling a trailer, turn the system off. See Side Blind Zone Alert (SBZA) on page 3‑60 for more information.


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Important considerations that have to do with weight:


The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The weight on the vehicle's tires


. And the weight of the trailering combination Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how the rig is used. Speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend


on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Trailer weight rating (TWR) is calculated assuming the tow vehicle has only the driver but all required trailering equipment. Weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the trailer weight rating. Use the following chart to determine how much the vehicle can weigh, based upon the vehicle model and options.


Vehicle 1500 Series 2WD Short Wheel Base


5.3L V8
5.3L V8
5.3L V8 K5L HD Cooling Pkg


1500 Series 2WD Long Wheel Base


5.3L V8
5.3L V8
5.3L V8 K5L HD Cooling Pkg 6.2L V8


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.08
3.42
3.42


3.08
3.42
3.42
3.42


5,400 lbs (2 449 kg) 5,900 lbs (2 676 kg) 8,400 lbs (3 810 kg)


11,000 lbs (4 990 kg) 11,500 lbs (5 216 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)


5,100 lbs (2 313 kg) 5,600 lbs (2 540 kg) 8,100 lbs (3 674 kg) 8,100 lbs (3 674 kg)


11,000 lbs (4 990 kg) 11,500 lbs (5 216 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)


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Vehicle 1500 Series 4WD Short Wheel Base


5.3L V8
5.3L V8
5.3L V8 K5L HD Cooling Pkg


1500 Series 4WD Long Wheel Base


5.3L V8
5.3L V8
5.3L V8 K5L HD Cooling Pkg 6.2L V8


2500 Series 2WD Long Wheel Base


6.0L V8


2500 Series 4WD Long Wheel Base


6.0L V8


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.08
3.42
3.42


3.08
3.42
3.42
3.42


3.73


3.73


5,200 lbs (2 359 kg) 5,700 lbs (2 586 kg) 8,200 lbs (3 720 kg)


11,000 lbs (4 990 kg) 11,500 lbs (5 216 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)


5,000 lbs (2 268 kg) 5,400 lbs (2 449 kg) 7,900 lbs (3 583 kg) 7,900 lbs (3 583 kg)


11,000 lbs (4 990 kg) 11,500 lbs (5 216 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)


9,600 lbs (4 355 kg)


16,000 lbs (7 257 kg)


9,300 lbs (4 218 kg)


16,000 lbs (7 257 kg)


*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for the vehicle should not be exceeded.


Ask your dealer for trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 8‑6 for more information.


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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is very important because it is also part of the vehicle weight. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle as well as trailer tongue weight. Vehicle options, equipment, passengers and cargo in the vehicle reduce the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑33 for more information about the vehicle's maximum load capacity.


Trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent and fifth wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be 15 to 25 percent of the loaded trailer weight up to the maximums for vehicle series and hitch type shown below:


Maximum


Vehicle Series 1500
2500
1500
2500


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Hitch Type


Weight Carrying Weight Carrying


Tongue Weight 272 kg (600 lbs) 453 kg (1,000 lbs) Weight Distributing 499 kg (1,100 lbs) Weight Distributing 680 kg (1,500 lbs)


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Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for the vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle's ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue or kingpin weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). See “Total Weight on the Vehicle's Tires” later in this section for more information. After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on the Vehicle's Tires Be sure the vehicle's tires are inflated to the inflation pressures found on the Certification label on the drivers door or see Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑33 for more information. Make sure not to exceed the GVWR limit for the vehicle, or the RGAWR, with the tow vehicle and trailer fully loaded for the trip including the weight of the trailer tongue. If using a weight distributing hitch, make sure not to exceed the RGAWR before applying the weight distribution spring bars.


Weight of the Trailering Combination It is important that the combination of the tow vehicle and trailer does not exceed any of its weight ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Trailer Weight Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh the tow vehicle and trailer combination, fully loaded for the trip, getting individual weights for each of these items. Hitches The correct hitch equipment helps maintain combination control. Most small-to-medium trailers can be towed with a weight carrying hitch which simply features a coupler latched to the hitch ball. Larger trailers may require a weight distributing hitch that uses spring bars to distribute the trailer tongue weight among the two vehicle and trailer axles. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” earlier in this section for rating limits with various hitch types. If a step-bumper hitch will be used, the bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper. Consider using sway controls with any trailer. Ask a trailering professional about sway controls or refer to the trailer manufacturer's recommendations and instructions.


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Weight‐Distributing Hitch Adjustment


Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. If the trailer being towed weighs up to 5,000 lbs (2 271 kg) with a factory-installed step bumper, safety chains may be attached to the attaching points on the bumper, otherwise, safety chains should be attached to holes on the trailer hitch platform. Always leave just enough slack so the combination can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.


A: Body to Ground Distance B: Front of Vehicle When using a weight-distributing hitch, the spring bars should be adjusted so the distance (A) is the same after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle and adjusting the hitch.


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Tow/Haul Mode


Pressing this button at the end of the shift lever turns on and off the tow/ haul mode.


This indicator light on the instrument panel cluster comes on when the tow/ haul mode is on.


Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. See Tow/Haul Mode on page 3‑39 for more information.


Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle's Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” earlier in the section. Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving conditions:


. When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy


load through rolling terrain.


. When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy


load in stop and go traffic.


. When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy


load in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.


Operating the vehicle in Tow/Haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/ Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.


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Trailer Brakes A loaded trailer that weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg) needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Since the vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, the trailer brakes cannot tap into the vehicle's hydraulic system. Integrated Trailer Brake Control System


The vehicle may have an Integrated Trailer Brake Control (ITBC) system for electric trailer brakes.


This symbol is located on the Trailer Brake Control Panel on vehicles with an Integrated Trailer Brake Control System. The power output to the trailer brakes is based on the amount of brake pressure being applied by the vehicle’s brake system. This available power output to the trailer brakes can be adjusted to a wide range of trailering situations. The ITBC system is integrated with the vehicle’s brake, anti‐lock brake and StabiliTrak systems. In trailering conditions that cause the vehicle’s anti‐lock brake or StabiliTrak systems to activate, power sent to the trailer's brakes will be automatically adjusted to minimize trailer wheel lock-up. This does not imply that the trailer has the StabiliTrak system. If the vehicle’s brake, anti‐lock brake or StabiliTrak systems are not functioning properly, the ITBC system may not be fully functional or may not function at all. Make sure all of these systems are fully operational to ensure full functionality of the ITBC system.


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The ITBC system is powered through the vehicle's electrical system. Turning the ignition off will also turn off the ITBC system. The ITBC system is fully functional only when the ignition is in ON or in RUN. The ITBC system can only be used with trailers with electric brakes.


{ WARNING:


Connecting a trailer that is not compatible with the ITBC system may result in reduced or complete loss of trailer braking. There may be an increase in stopping distance or trailer instability which could result in personal injury or damage to the vehicle, trailer, or other property. An aftermarket controller may be available for use with trailers with surge, air, or electric‐over‐hydraulic trailer brake systems. To determine the type of brakes on the trailer and the availability of controllers, check with your trailer manufacturer or dealer.


When trailering, make sure of the following:


The ITBC system is used only with trailers that are equipped with electric brakes.


. All applicable local and federal laws and


regulations are followed.


. All electrical and mechanical connections to the


trailer are made correctly. The trailer’s brakes are in proper working condition. The trailer and vehicle are properly loaded for the towing condition.


The ITBC system is a factory installed item. Out‐of‐factory installation of this system should not be attempted. GM is not responsible for warranty or performance of the system resulting from out‐of‐factory installation.


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Trailer Brake Control Panel


A. Manual Trailer Brake Apply Lever B. Trailer Gain Adjustment Buttons


The ITBC system has a control panel located on the instrument panel to the left of the steering column. See Instrument Panel on page 1‑2 . The control panel allows adjustment to the amount of output, referred to as trailer gain, available to the electric trailer brakes and allows manual application the trailer brakes. The Trailer Brake Control Panel is used along with the Trailer Brake Display Page on the DIC to adjust and display power output to the trailer brakes.


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Trailer Brake DIC Display Page The ITBC system displays messages into the vehicle’s Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 4‑62 for more information. The display page indicates Trailer Gain setting, power output to the electric trailer brakes, trailer connection and system operational status. The Trailer Brake Display Page can be displayed by performing any of the following actions:


. Scrolling through the DIC menu pages using the


odometer trip stem or the DIC Vehicle Information button (if equipped).


. Pressing a Trailer Gain button – If the Trailer Brake Display Page is not currently displayed, pressing a Trailer Gain button will first recall the current Trailer Gain setting. After the Trailer Brake Display Page is displayed, each press and release of the gain buttons will then cause the Trailer Gain setting to change.


. Activating the Manual Trailer Brake Apply lever . Connecting a trailer equipped with electric trailer


brakes


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All DIC warning and service messages must first be acknowledged by the driver by pressing the odometer trip stem or the DIC Vehicle Information button (if equipped) before the Trailer Brake Display Page can be displayed and Trailer Gain can be adjusted. TRAILER GAIN – This setting is displayed anytime the Trailer Brake Display Page is active. This setting can be adjusted from 0.0 to 10.0 with either a trailer connected or disconnected. To adjust the Trailer Gain, press one of the Trailer Gain adjustment buttons located on the Trailer Brake Control Panel. Press and hold a gain button to cause the Trailer Gain to continuously adjust. To turn the output to the trailer off, adjust the Trailer Gain setting to 0.0 (zero). 0.0 (zero) gain is the factory default setting. To properly adjust trailer gain, see the Trailer Gain Adjustment Procedure later in this section.


TRAILER OUTPUT – This is displayed any time a trailer with electric brakes is connected. Output to the electric brakes is based on the amount of vehicle braking present and relative to the Trailer Gain setting. Output is displayed from 0 to 10 bars for each gain setting. The Trailer Output will indicate “- - - - - -“ on the Trailer Brake Display Page whenever the following occur:


. No trailer is connected. . A trailer without electric brakes is connected (no


DIC message is displayed).


. A trailer with electric brakes has become


disconnected (a CHECK TRAILER WIRING message will also be displayed on the DIC). There is a fault present in the wiring to the electric trailer brakes (a CHECK TRAILER WIRING message will also be displayed on the DIC). There is a fault in the ITBC system (a SERVICE TRAILER BRAKE SYSTEM message will also be displayed in the DIC).


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Use the following procedure to correctly adjust Trailer Gain for each towing condition:


1. Make sure the trailer brakes are in proper working


condition.


2. Connect a properly loaded trailer to the vehicle and


make all necessary mechanical and electrical connections. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑33 for more information.


3. After the electrical connection is made to a trailer


equipped with electric brakes: . A TRAILER CONNECTED message will be


briefly displayed on the DIC display. The Trailer Brake Display Page will appear on the DIC showing TRAILER GAIN and TRAILER OUTPUT. In the Trailer Output display on the DIC, “- - - - - -“ will disappear if there is no error present. Connecting a trailer without electric brakes will not clear the six dashed lines.


Manual Trailer Brake Apply The Manual Trailer Brake Apply Lever is located on the Trailer Brake Control Panel and is used to apply the trailer’s electric brakes independent of the vehicle’s brakes. This lever is used in the Trailer Gain Adjustment Procedure to properly adjust the power output to the trailer brakes. Sliding the lever to the left will apply only the trailer brakes. The power output to the trailer is indicated in the Trailer Brake Display Page in the DIC. If the vehicle’s service brakes are applied while using the Manual Trailer Brake Apply Lever, the trailer output power will be the greater of the two. The trailer and the vehicle's brake lamps will come on when either vehicle braking or manual trailer brakes are applied. Trailer Gain Adjustment Procedure Trailer Gain should be set for a specific trailering condition and must be adjusted any time vehicle loading, trailer loading or road surface conditions change. Setting the Trailer Gain properly is needed for the best trailer stopping performance. A trailer that is over-gained may result in locked trailer brakes. A trailer that is under-gained may result in not enough trailer braking. Both of these conditions may result in poorer stopping and stability of the vehicle and trailer.


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4. Adjust the Trailer Gain by using the gain


adjustment (+ / -) buttons on the Trailer Brake Control Panel.


5. Drive the vehicle with the trailer attached on a level road surface representative of the towing condition and free of traffic at about 20 to 25 mph (32 to 40 km/h) and fully apply the Manual Trailer Brake Apply lever. Adjusting trailer gain at speeds lower than 20 to 25 mph (32 to 40 km/h) may result in an incorrect gain setting.


6. Adjust the Trailer Gain to just below the point of


trailer wheel lock-up, indicated by trailer wheel squeal or tire smoke when a trailer wheel locks. Trailer wheel lock-up may not occur if towing a heavily loaded trailer. In this case, adjust the Trailer Gain to the highest allowable setting for the towing condition.


7. Re-adjust Trailer Gain any time vehicle loading,


trailer loading or road surface conditions change or if trailer wheel lock-up is noticed at any time while towing


Other ITBC Related DIC Messages In addition to displaying TRAILER GAIN and TRAILER OUTPUT through the DIC, trailer connection and ITBC system status is displayed in the DIC. TRAILER CONNECTED – This message will be briefly displayed when a trailer with electric brakes is first connected to the vehicle. This message will automatically turn off in about ten seconds. The driver can also acknowledge this message before it automatically turns off. CHECK TRAILER WIRING – This message will be displayed if:


1. The ITBC system first determines connection to a


trailer with electric brakes and then the trailer harness becomes disconnected from the vehicle. If the disconnect occurs while the vehicle is stationary, this message will automatically turn off in about thirty seconds. This message will also turn off if the driver acknowledges this message off or if the trailer harness is re-connected. If the disconnect occurs while the vehicle is moving, this message will continue until the ignition is turned off. This message will also turn off if the driver acknowledges this message off or if the trailer harness is re-connected.


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2. There is an electrical fault in the wiring to the


electric trailer brakes. This message will continue as long as there is an electrical fault in the trailer wiring. This message will also turn off if the driver acknowledges this message off.


To determine if the electrical fault is on the vehicle side or trailer side of the trailer wiring harness connection, do the following:


1. Disconnect the trailer wiring harness from the


vehicle.


2. Turn the ignition OFF. 3. Wait ten seconds, then turn the ignition back


4.


to RUN. If the CHECK TRAILER WIRING message re-appears, the electrical fault is on the vehicle side. If the CHECK TRAILER WIRING message only re-appears when connecting the trailer wiring harness to the vehicle, the electrical fault is on the trailer side.


SERVICE TRAILER BRAKE SYSTEM – This message will be displayed when there is a problem with the ITBC system. If this message persists over multiple ignition cycles there is problem with the ITBC system. Take the vehicle to an authorized GM dealer to have the ITBC system diagnosed and repaired. If either the CHECK TRAILER WIRING or SERVICE TRAILER BRAKE SYSTEM message is displayed while driving the vehicle, power is no longer available to the trailer brakes. When traffic conditions allow, carefully pull the vehicle over to the side of the road and turn the ignition off. Check the wiring connection to the trailer and turn the ignition back on. If either of these messages continues, either the vehicle or trailer needs service. An authorized GM dealer may be able to diagnose and repair problems with the trailer. However, any diagnosis and repair of the trailer is not covered under the vehicle warranty. Please contact your trailer dealer for assistance with trailer repairs and trailer warranty information.


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Chevrolet Tahoe/Suburban Owner Manual - 2010


Black plate (65,1)


Driving with a Trailer


{ WARNING:


When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. To maximize safety when towing a trailer: . Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks


and make necessary repairs before starting a trip.


. Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch,


or rear-most window open. Fully open the air outlets on or under the instrument panel.


. Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting


that brings in only outside air and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.


For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 3‑52.


Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. The combination you are driving is longer and not as responsive as the vehicle itself. Get acquainted with the handling and braking of the rig before setting out for the open road. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirrors. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the combination moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes work. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure and the lamps and any trailer brakes still work.


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Chevrolet Tahoe/Suburban Owner Manual - 2010


Black plate (66,1)


Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. The combination will not accelerate as quickly and is longer so it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


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If the trailer turn signal bulbs burn out, the arrows on the instrument panel will still flash for turns. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might get hot and no longer work well. Vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. The tow/haul mode may be used if the transmission shifts too often. See Tow/Haul Mode on page 3‑39. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If the engine is turned off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, the vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with the automatic transmission in P (Park) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If the overheat warning comes on, see Engine Overheating on page 6‑36.


Chevrolet Tahoe/Suburban Owner Manual - 2010


Black plate (67,1)


Parking on Hills


{ WARNING:


Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.


If parking the rig on a hill:


1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking


5.


brake and shift into P (Park). If the vehicle is four-wheel-drive and has a two-speed transfer case, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in N (Neutral).


6. Release the brake pedal.


{ WARNING:


It can be dangerous to get out of the vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in P (Park) with the parking

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