5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL.
6. Release the regular brakes.
{CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle will not move, even when you are on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
If the transfer case on four-wheel-drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in NEUTRAL.
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the
chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
437
(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle is equipped with the following wiring harnesses for towing a trailer. Basic Trailer Wiring The trailer wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector, is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness connector can be plugged into a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector available through your dealer.
The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Taillamps (cid:129) White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
(cid:129) Red: Battery Feed* (cid:129) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake* *The fuses for these two circuits are installed in the underhood electrical center, but the wires are not connected. They should be connected by your dealer or a qualified service center.
438
(cid:129) Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Harness Package
Your vehicle is equipped with the seven-wire trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform.
The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Taillamps (cid:129) White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
(cid:129) Red: Battery Feed* (cid:129) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake* *The fuses for these two circuits are installed in the underhood electrical center, but the wires are not connected. They should be connected by your dealer or a qualified service center. If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, press the tow/haul mode button located at the end of the shift lever. This will boost the vehicle system voltage and properly charge the battery. If the trailer is too light for tow/haul mode, you can turn on the headlamps as a second way to boost the vehicle system and charge the battery.
439
(cid:129) Electric Brake Control Wiring Provisions These wiring provisions are included with your vehicle as part of the trailer wiring package. These provisions are for an electric brake controller. The instrument panel contains blunt cut wires near the data link connector for the trailer brake controller. The harness contains the following wires: (cid:129) Dark Blue: Brake Signal to Trailer Connector (cid:129) Red/Black: Battery
Light Blue/White: Brake Switch
(cid:129) White: Ground It should be installed by your dealer or a qualified service center. Power Winches If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.
Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) for your vehicle. CWR is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But you can figure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see Towing a Trailer on page 422.
440
(cid:129)
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Service ........................................................ 444
Accessories and Modifications ................... 444
California Proposition 65 Warning .............. 445
Doing Your Own Service Work .................. 445
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle .......................................... 446
Fuel ............................................................. 446
Gasoline Octane ........................................ 447
Gasoline Specifications .............................. 447
California Fuel ........................................... 447
Additives ................................................... 448
Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) ............................ 449
Fuels in Foreign Countries ........................ 450
Filling the Tank ......................................... 451
Filling a Portable Fuel Container ............... 455
Checking Things Under the Hood .............. 456
Hood Release ........................................... 457
Engine Compartment Overview .................. 458
Engine Oil ................................................. 459
Engine Oil Life System .............................. 462
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ............................ 464
Automatic Transmission Fluid .................... 466
Engine Coolant .......................................... 470
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ............ 473
Engine Overheating ................................... 473
Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode ..................................... 476
Cooling System ......................................... 477
Engine Fan Noise ..................................... 483
Power Steering Fluid ................................. 484
Windshield Washer Fluid ........................... 485
Brakes ...................................................... 486
Battery ...................................................... 490
Jump Starting ............................................ 491
Rear Axle .................................................... 496
Four-Wheel Drive ........................................ 497
Front Axle ................................................... 498
Headlamp Aiming ........................................ 499
Bulb Replacement ....................................... 502
Halogen Bulbs ........................................... 502
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Back-up Lamps ...................................... 502
License Plate Lamp ................................... 504
Replacement Bulbs ................................... 504
441
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ....... 505
Tires ............................................................ 507
Tire Sidewall Labeling ............................... 508
Tire Terminology and Definitions ............... 512
Inflation - Tire Pressure ............................. 515
Tire Pressure Monitor System ................... 516
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...................... 521
When It Is Time for New Tires .................. 523
Buying New Tires ...................................... 524
Different Size Tires and Wheels ................ 526
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 527
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 528
Wheel Replacement .................................. 528
Tire Chains ............................................... 530
If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 531
Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 532
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 533
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing
the Spare Tire ....................................... 537
Secondary Latch System ........................... 543
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...... 547
Spare Tire ................................................. 552
442
Appearance Care ........................................ 553
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 553
Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 554
Leather ...................................................... 555
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other
Plastic Surfaces ..................................... 556
Care of Safety Belts .................................. 556
Weatherstrips ............................................ 556
Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 557
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 557
Finish Care ............................................... 557
Windshield, Backglass, and Wiper
Blades ................................................... 558
Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels
and Trim ................................................ 559
Tires ......................................................... 560
Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 560
Finish Damage .......................................... 560
Underbody Maintenance ............................ 560
Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 561
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ............ 561
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Vehicle Identification .................................. 562
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ........... 562
Service Parts Identification Label ............... 563
Electrical System ........................................ 563
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 563
Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 564
Power Windows and Other Power
Options .................................................. 564
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....................... 564
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..................... 565
Center Instrument Panel Fuse Block ......... 566
Underhood Fuse Block .............................. 567
Capacities and Specifications .................... 572
443
Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.
444
California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.
Doing Your Own Service Work
{CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
CAUTION:
(Continued)
(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient
knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
(cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,
and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 616.
445
Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 106. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 594.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.
Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, GM recommends the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 562. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code 0) or the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code 3), you can use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 449. In all other engines, use only regular unleaded gasoline.
446
Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.
Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 448 for additional information.
California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 253. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
447
Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer for service.
Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels.
448
Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 562. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (Code 0) or the 5.3L V8 engine (Code 3), you can use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel on page 446. In all other engines, use only the unleaded gasoline described under Gasoline Octane on page 447. Only vehicles that have the 5.3L V8 engine (Code 0) or the 5.3L V8 engine (Code 3) can use 85% ethanol fuel (E85). We encourage the use of E85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops.
Many service stations will not have an 85%
ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U. S.
Department of Energy has an alternative
fuels website (www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/
infrastructure/locator.html) that can help you
find E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85
should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do
not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater
than 85%.
At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM
Specification D 5798. By definition, this means
that fuel labeled E85 will have an ethanol content
between 70% and 85%. Filling the fuel tank
with fuel mixtures that do not meet ASTM
specifications can affect driveability and could
cause the malfunction indicator lamp to come on.
To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the
E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your
climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If
you have trouble starting on E85, it could be
because the E85 fuel is not properly formulated
for your climate. If this happens, switching to
gasoline or adding gasoline to the fuel tank can
improve starting. For good starting and heater
efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel
tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol.
449
Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.
It is best not to alternate repeatedly between gasoline and E85. If you do switch fuels, it is recommended that you add as much fuel as possible — do not add less than three gallons (11 L) when refueling. You should drive the vehicle immediately after refueling for at least seven miles (11 km) to allow the vehicle to adapt to the change in ethanol concentration. E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to refill the fuel tank more often when using E85 than when you are using gasoline. See Filling the Tank on page 451. Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85 fuel and can harm your vehicle’s fuel system. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.
450
Filling the Tank
{CAUTION:
Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.
The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. For vehicles with E85 fuel capability, a yellow cap with the words “E85 or gasoline” will appear.
451
To open the fuel door, push the rearward center edge inboard and release. The door will pop open. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.
452
{CAUTION:
If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 557. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 253.
453
If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the TIGHTEN GAS CAP message will be displayed if the fuel cap is not properly installed.
{CAUTION:
If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to
Notice: get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 253.
454
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
CAUTION:
(Continued)
{CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
(cid:129) Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
(cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside
a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.
(cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping
gasoline.
(cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while
pumping gasoline.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
455
Checking Things Under the Hood
{CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
456
Hood Release To open the hood do the following:
1. Pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle to the lower left of the steering wheel.
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and locate the secondary hood release, near the center of the grille.
3. Push the secondary hood release to the right. 4. Lift the hood.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then bring the hood from full open to within 6 inches (152 mm) from the closed position, pause, then push the front center of the hood with a swift, firm motion to fully close the hood.
457
Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 5.3L engine (4.8L and 6.0L similar), here is what you will see:
458
A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 464.
B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 464.
C. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap.
See Cooling System on page 477 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 473. D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump
Starting on page 491.
E. Battery. See Battery on page 490. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” under Engine Oil on page 459.
G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 466.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Out of View).
See Jump Starting on page 491.
I. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See
“Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 459.
J. Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on
page 477.
K. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power
Steering Fluid on page 484.
L. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” under Brakes on page 486.
M. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse
Block on page 567.
N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 485.
Engine Oil If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) comes on, check the engine oil level right away. For more information, see CHECK OIL LEVEL under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 270. You should check the engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
459
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 458
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil
several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper
towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
When to Add Engine Oil
Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 458 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.
If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 572.
460
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
(cid:129) Oils meeting these
requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M
Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.
(cid:129) SAE 5W-30
As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.
Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.
461
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 270. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.
If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the
temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is
recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide
easier cold starting and better protection for
the engine at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended
oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM
Standard GM6094M are all you need for good
performance and engine protection.
Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.
462
How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message coming on, reset the system. Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Engine Oil Life System, do the following: 1. Display the OIL LIFE REMAINING on the DIC. If your vehicle does not have DIC buttons, the vehicle must be in PARK (P) to access this display. See DIC Operation and Displays (With DIC Buttons) on page 261 or DIC Operation and Displays (Without DIC Buttons) on page 267.
2. Press and hold the SET/RESET button on
the DIC, or the trip odometer reset stem if your vehicle does not have DIC buttons, for more than five seconds. The oil life will change to 100%.
If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the Engine Oil Life System has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.
463
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 458 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter and the air filter restriction indicator, if the vehicle has one.
When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter If your vehicle has an air filter restriction indicator, it lets you know when the engine air cleaner/filter needs to be replaced. On vehicles with a restriction indicator, you should inspect the air filter restriction indicator at every oil change and replace the engine air cleaner/filter when the indicator tells you to. On vehicles without an air filter restriction indicator, inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 579 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.
464
How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Vehicles With an Air Filter Restriction Indicator Locate the air filter restriction indicator on the engine air cleaner/filter cover. When the indicator turns black or is in the red/orange “change” zone, replace the filter and reset the indicator. See the steps following to replace the engine air cleaner/ filter and to reset the air filter restriction indicator. Vehicles Without an Air Filter Restriction Indicator To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the engine air cleaner/filter from the vehicle by following Steps 1 through 6. When you have the engine air cleaner/filter removed, lightly shake it to release loose dust and dirt. If the engine air cleaner/filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.
Replacing the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator
1. Locate the air cleaner/filter assembly. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 458.
2. Loosen the four screws on the cover of the
housing and lift up the cover.
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{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 582, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 590.
3. Remove the engine air cleaner/filter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.
4. Clean the engine air cleaner/filter sealing
surfaces and the housing.
5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 6. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. 7. Reset the air filter restriction indicator, if
the vehicle has one, by pressing the top button on the indicator.
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How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above
90°F (32°C).
(cid:129) At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
(cid:129) While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.
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(cid:129)
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 458
for more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the
dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or
paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds
and then pull it back out again.
Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift
lever in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). 4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes
or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick handle with this graphic is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the
lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.
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Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 590. (cid:129) After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.
(cid:129) When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
Consistency of Readings Always check the fluid level at least twice using the procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper fluid level. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer. How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 590. Using a funnel, add fluid down the transmission dipstick tube only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.
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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 473.
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down to
−34°F (−37°C).
(cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature.
Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.
Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
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(cid:129) What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
If you use an improper coolant
Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 590 for more information.
If you use extra inhibitors and/or
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Checking Coolant The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 458 for more information on location.
{CAUTION:
Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark.
Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.
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If the pressure cap is not tightly
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 458 for more information on location.
Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 252. In addition, you will find an ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE, ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE, and an ENGINE POWER IS REDUCED message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) on the instrument panel. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 270.
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CAUTION:
(Continued)
See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 476 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.
If your engine catches fire because
Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 476 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.
If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine The ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message, along with a low coolant condition, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic.
(cid:129) Tow a trailer. See Towing a Trailer on
page 422.
If you get the ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn
it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest
fan speed and open the windows as necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in
NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle immediately.
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(cid:129) If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle is equipped with an engine-driven cooling fan, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least five minutes while you are parked. If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle is equipped with an electric cooling fan, idle the engine for five minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 459.
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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:
5.3L Engine (4.8L and 6.0L Similar)
A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan(s)
{CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If possible, the vehicle should be parked on a level surface. Check the coolant level after the system cools down. Some amount of coolant may be lost due to overheating.
477
{CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.
478
Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 476 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 470 for more information.
479
If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
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In cold weather, water can freeze and
Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
1. You can remove the
coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.
Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly,
and remove it.
481
3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper
mixture, to the FULL COLD mark.
4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off,
start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.
482
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages. If your vehicle has electric cooling fans, you may hear the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is required. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, or if you are operating your air conditioning system, the fans may change to high speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and indicates that the cooling system is functioning properly. The fans will change to low speed when additional cooling is no longer required.
5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. 6. Verify coolant level after engine is shut off
and the coolant is cold. If necessary, repeat coolant fill procedure steps 1 through 6.
Engine Fan Noise If your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan, when the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
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Power Steering Fluid
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 458 for reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine
compartment cool down.
2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir
clean.
3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a
clean rag.
4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the
fluid level on the dipstick.
The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 590. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
484
Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Your vehicle has a low washer fluid message in the DIC that comes on when the washer fluid is low. The message is displayed for 15 seconds at the start of each ignition cycle. When the WASHER FLUID LOW ADD FLUID message is displayed, you will need to add washer fluid to the windshield washer fluid reservoir.
Open the cap with the
washer symbol on it.
Add washer fluid until
the tank is full. See
Engine Compartment
Overview on page 458
for reservoir location.
Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer
fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.
(cid:129) Fill your washer fluid tank only
three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in
your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
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Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 458 for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
Brakes Brake Fluid
486
{CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.
When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 249. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 579.
Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.
Look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.
After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.
487
What to Add
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed
container only. See Recommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 590.
Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the
area around the cap before removing it. This
will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
{CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 557.
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(cid:129) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.
489
Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down.
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 491 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 458 for battery location.
490
Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or
(cid:129) They contain enough electricity to
ignite.
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
Ignoring these steps could result in
Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a
12-volt battery with a negative ground system.
If the other vehicle’s system is not a
Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper
cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put the automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear, not in NEUTRAL.
491
Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all the lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!
4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate
the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal, if equipped, is located under a red plastic cover at the positive battery post. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover.
492
The remote negative (-) terminal is a stud located
on the right front of the engine, where the
negative battery cable attaches.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 458
for more information on the location of the
remote positive (+) and remote negative (-)
terminals.
{CAUTION:
An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the
CAUTION:
(Continued)
CAUTION:
(Continued)
right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
493
Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
6. Connect the red
positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
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7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect
it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the remote negative (−) terminal, on the vehicle with the dead battery.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery
and run the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead
battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from
the vehicle that had the bad battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from
the vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
other vehicle.
5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover,
if equipped, to its original position.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and
Remote Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
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Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. All axle assemblies are filled by volume of fluid during production. They are not filled to reach a certain level. When checking the fluid level on any axle, variations in the readings can be caused by factory fill differences between the minimum and the maximum fluid volume. Also, if a vehicle has just been driven before checking the fluid level, it may appear lower than normal because fluid has traveled out along the axle tubes and has not drained back to the sump area. Therefore, a reading taken five minutes after the vehicle has been driven will appear to have a lower fluid level than a vehicle that has been stationary for an hour or two. Remember that the rear axle assembly must be supported to get a true reading.
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How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. (cid:129) For 4.8L and 5.3L engines, the proper level is
from 0.04 inch to 0.75 inch (1.0 mm to 19.0 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.
(cid:129) For 6.0L engines, the proper level is from
0.6 inch to 1.6 inches (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.
(cid:129) The proper fill level for the 2500 Series is from 0 to 1/2 inch (0 to 13 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located at the front of the axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.
Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case fluid unless you suspect there is a leak, or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.
How to Check Lubricant
Automatic Transfer Case
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. When to Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to change the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 579.
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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 590. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.
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A: Fill Plug B: Drain Plug If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant: (cid:129) When the differential is cold, add enough
lubricant to raise the level from 0 (0 mm) to 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) below the filler plug hole.
(cid:129) When the differential is at operating
temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 590. Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim of the headlamps have been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the aim of the headlamps may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may mean the vertical aim of your headlamps needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be adjusted. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure.
The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: (cid:129) The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps
are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall.
(cid:129) The vehicle must have all four tires on a level surface which is level all the way to the wall.
(cid:129) The vehicle should be placed so it is
perpendicular to the wall.
(cid:129) The vehicle should not have any snow, ice, or
mud on it.
(cid:129) The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed.
(cid:129) The vehicle should be normally loaded with a
full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver’s seat. (cid:129) Tires should be properly inflated. (cid:129) The spare tire is in its proper location in the
vehicle.
Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly.
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To adjust the vertical aim, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on
page 457 for more information.
4. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from
the ground upward (A) to the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.
5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall or flat surface the width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4.
Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a