2007 Chevrolet Tahoe Owners Manual

you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider. Surface Conditions: Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow, or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration, and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances.

Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you are not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow, or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:

Is the path ahead clear?

(cid:129) Will the surface texture change abruptly up

ahead?

(cid:129) Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? There is more discussion of these subjects later.

(cid:129) Will you have to stop suddenly or change

direction quickly?

When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you are not prepared. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, the wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you cannot control the vehicle as well or at all.

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(cid:129) Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits, or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what is not. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious — or even fatal — accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. See Drunken Driving on page 357.

Driving on Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you cannot control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, do not drive the hill.

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(cid:129) Are there obstructions on the hill that can

block your path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts?

(cid:129) What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an

embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is one of those hills that is just too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill.

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping? Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you will not have to make turning maneuvers?

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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps. (cid:129) Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the

steering wheel.

(cid:129) Get a smooth start up the hill and try to

maintain your speed. Do not use more power than you need, because you do not want the wheels to start spinning or sliding.

{CAUTION:

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

(cid:129) Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

(cid:129) Ease up on your speed as you approach the

top of the hill.

(cid:129) Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

(cid:129) Sound the horn as you approach the top of the

hill to let opposing traffic know you are there.

(cid:129) Use your headlamps even during the

day. They make your vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.

{CAUTION:

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

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Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and I cannot make it up the hill?

A: If this happens, there are some things you should do, and there are some things you must not do. First, here is what you should do:

(cid:129) Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle

and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake. If your engine is still running, shift the transmission to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).

If your engine has stopped running, you will need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).

(cid:129) As you are backing down the hill, put your left

hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you will be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It is best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill. (cid:129) Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting

into NEUTRAL (N) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

{CAUTION:

Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). This is because the NEUTRAL position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P). But do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

(cid:129) Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you cannot make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

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Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the hill and decide I just cannot do it. What should I do?

A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in PARK (P) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you will want to consider a number of things: (cid:129) How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to

maintain vehicle control?

(cid:129) What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?

Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

(cid:129) Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts?

Logs? Boulders?

(cid:129) What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a

hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they will not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

{CAUTION:

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

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Q: Are there some things I should not do

when driving down a hill?

A: Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose control and have a serious accident.

(cid:129) When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you do not drive straight down.

(cid:129) Never go downhill with the transmission in

NEUTRAL (N). This is called “free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill? A: It is much more likely to happen going

uphill. But if it happens going downhill, here is what to do.

1. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular

brakes. Apply the parking brake.

2. Shift to PARK (P) and, while still braking,

restart the engine.

3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking

brake, and drive straight down.

4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.

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Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:

{CAUTION:

Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.

(cid:129) A hill that can be driven straight up or down

may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end.

But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

(cid:129) Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over.

(cid:129) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.

For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

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Q: What if I am driving across an incline that

is not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do?

A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide

sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

Stalling on an Incline

{CAUTION:

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

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If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, your wheels will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer braking distances. It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud —the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not get stuck. When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

{CAUTION:

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

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Driving in Water

{CAUTION:

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.

Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it is deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts.

If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 390
for more information on driving through water. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

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Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving. (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the

glare from headlamps behind you.

(cid:129) Since you cannot see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.

(cid:129) Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare, as from a driver who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps, slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) Keep the windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that the headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as the headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it.

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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you cannot stop, accelerate, or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires do not have much tread left, you will get even less traction.

It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It is wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer fluid reservoir filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

{CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They may not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply the brake pedal lightly until the brakes work normally.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before you hit them.

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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.

Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through the engine’s air intake and badly damage the engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly. Driving Through Flowing Water

{CAUTION:

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

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City Driving

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips (cid:129) Turn on your low-beam headlamps — not just your parking lamps — to help make you more visible to others.

(cid:129) Besides slowing down, allow some extra

following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

(cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See

Tires on page 507.

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

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Freeway Driving

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: (cid:129) Know the best way to get to where you are

going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

(cid:129) Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross

most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 394. (cid:129) Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

Mile for mile, freeways — also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.

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The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass.

Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your blind spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.

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Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They will be ready and willing to help if you need it.

Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir

full? Are all windows clean inside and outside?

(cid:129) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? (cid:129) Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you

checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?

(cid:129) Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

(cid:129) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather

outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?

(cid:129) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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(cid:129) Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as highway hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen.

Then here are some tips: (cid:129) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with

a comfortably cool interior.

(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your vehicle’s mirrors and instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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(cid:129) If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. See Off-Road Driving on page 372 for information about driving off-road. (cid:129) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all

fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system, and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

{CAUTION:

If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

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(cid:129) Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

(cid:129) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

(cid:129) You may see highway signs on mountains that

warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

{CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

(cid:129) Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

(cid:129) Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift

down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.

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Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:129) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:129) You may want to put winter emergency

supplies in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 507. Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

Winter Driving

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very careful.

What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. StabiliTrak® will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. But you can turn StabiliTrak® off if you ever need to. See StabiliTrak® System on page 363 and If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 404. Even with StabiliTrak®, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you may want to turn StabiliTrak® off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds.

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The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 361. (cid:129) Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

(cid:129) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: (cid:129) Turn on your hazard flashers. (cid:129) Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police

that you have been stopped by the snow.

(cid:129) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around

you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

{CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin the wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.

{CAUTION:

If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

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Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it may need to be towed out. Or, you can use the recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 417.

Notice: Spinning the wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting the transmission back and forth, you can destroy the transmission. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 530.

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around the front wheels. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into Four-Wheel High or Four-Wheel Low. Turn the StabiliTrak® System off. See StabiliTrak® System on page 363. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.

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Recovery Hooks

{CAUTION:

These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

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Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. Your vehicle may have recovery hooks at the front of the vehicle. You may need to use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Tire and Loading Information Label

Label Example

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.

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4. The resulting figure equals the available

amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).

5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.

6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load

from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 422 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.

The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 507 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 515. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined

weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.

2. Determine the combined weight of the driver

and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.

3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.

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Example 1

Example 2

Item

Description

Total

Item

Description

Total

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

300 lbs (136 kg)

700 lbs (317 kg)

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight = 250 lbs (113 kg)

750 lbs (136 kg)

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Certification/Tire Label

A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo.

Example 3

Item

Description

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight = 0 lbs (0 kg)

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.

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The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. The Certification/Tire label also contains information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. The label will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.

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If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

{CAUTION:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

(cid:129) Put things in the cargo area of your

vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like

suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

(cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child

restraint in your vehicle.

(cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down

unless you need to.

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There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving on page 372.

If your vehicle does not have the snow

Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment Before installing a snow plow on your vehicle, here are some things you will need to know: Notice: plow prep package, adding a plow can damage your vehicle, and the repairs would not be covered by warranty. Unless your vehicle was built to carry a snow plow, do not add one to your vehicle. If your vehicle has the snow plow prep package, called RPO VYU, then the payload your vehicle can carry will be reduced when a snow plow is installed. Your vehicle can be damaged if either the front or rear axle ratings or the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) are exceeded.

Q: How do I know if my vehicle can handle a

snow plow?

A: Some vehicles are built with a special snow plow prep package, called RPO VYU. If your vehicle has this option, you can add a plow to it, provided certain weights, such as the weights on the vehicle’s axles and the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW), are not exceeded.

Q: How heavy can a snow plow safely be? A: The plow your vehicle can carry depends on

many things, such as:

(cid:129) The options your vehicle came with, and the

weight of those options.

(cid:129) The weight and number of passengers you

intend to carry.

(cid:129) The weight of items you have added to your

vehicle.

(cid:129) The total weight of any additional cargo you

intend to carry.

Say, for example, you have a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow. The total weight of all occupants and cargo inside the cab should not exceed 300 lb (135 kg). This means that you may only be able to carry one passenger. But, even this may be too much if you have got other equipment already adding to the weight of your vehicle. Here are some guidelines for safely carrying a snow plow on your vehicle: (cid:129) Make sure the weight on the front and rear

axles does not exceed the axle rating for each. (cid:129) For the front axle, if more cargo or passengers

must be carried, appropriate counter ballast must be installed rear of the rear axle. Counter ballast must be properly secured so it will not move during driving.

(cid:129) Follow the snow plow manufacturer’s

recommendations regarding rear ballast. Rear ballast may be required to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual weight at the front axle may be less than the front axle rating.

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The front axle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the Certification/Tire label, as shown.

United States

Canada

(cid:129) The snow plow manufacturer or installer can assist you in determining the amount of rear ballast required, to help make sure your snowplow/vehicle combination does not exceed the GVW rating, the front and rear axle ratings, and the front and rear weight distribution ratio.

(cid:129) The total vehicle must not exceed the GVW

rating.

Q: What is front axle reserve capacity, and

how do I calculate it?

A: Front axle reserve capacity is the difference between your front Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the front axle weight of your vehicle with full fuel and passengers. Basically, it is the amount of weight you can add to your front axle before reaching your front GAWR.

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In order to calculate the amount of weight any front accessory, such as a snow plow, is adding to the front axle, use the following formula:

For example, adding a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow actually adds more than 700 lbs (318 kg) to the front axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft (122 cm) in front of the front axle and the wheel base is 10 ft (305 cm), then: W = 700 lb (318 kg) A = 4 ft (122 cm) W.B. = 10 ft (305 cm) (W x (A + W.B.))/W.B. = (700 x (4 + 10))/10 = 980 lbs (445 kg) So, if your vehicle’s front axle reserve capacity is more than 980 lbs (445 kg), you could add the snow plow without exceeding the front GAWR.

(W x (A + W.B.)) /W.B.= Weight the accessory is adding to the front axle. Where: W = Weight of added accessory A = Distance that the accessory is in front of the front axle W.B. = Vehicle Wheelbase

415

Q: What if I want to add heavier equipment to

my vehicle?

A: You can add heavier equipment on the front

of the vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear GAWR, and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) must never be exceeded.

416

{CAUTION:

On some vehicles that have certain front mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it may be possible to load the front axle to the front gross axle weight rating (GAWR) but not have enough weight on the rear axle to have proper braking performance. If your brakes can not work properly, you could have a crash. To help your brakes work properly when a snow plow is installed, always follow the snow plow manufacturer or installer’s recommendation for rear ballast to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual front weight may be less than the front GAWR, and the total vehicle weight is less than the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). Maintaining a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio is necessary to provide proper braking performance.

Q: What is total vehicle reserve capacity? A: This is the difference between your GVWR and

the weight of your vehicle with full fuel and passengers. It is the amount of weight you can add to your vehicle before reaching your GVWR. Keep in mind that reserve capacity numbers are intended as a guide when selecting the amount of equipment or cargo your vehicle can carry. If you are unsure of your vehicle’s front, rear, or total weight, go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can also help you with this. The total vehicle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the Certification/Tire label as shown previously.

See your dealer for additional advice and information about using a snow plow on your vehicle. Also, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 407.

Emergency Roof Lamp Provisions Vehicles with the RPO VYU snow plow prep package also have an emergency roof lamp provision package, RPO TRW. Wiring for the emergency roof lamp is provided above the overhead console. See Auxiliary Roof Mounted Lamp on page 218 for switch location. Towing

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 604. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

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Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing, towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, and dolly towing, towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”. With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing”, following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

(cid:129) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.

(cid:129) Do you have the proper towing equipment?

See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 396.

If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle

Dinghy Towing Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: with all four wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed.

418

(cid:129) Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 3. Firmly set the parking brake. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the

tow vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See Four-Wheel Drive on page 150 for the proper procedure to select the NEUTRAL (N) position for your vehicle.

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

7. Turn the ignition off.

419

If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle

Dolly Towing Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: with the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. Two-wheel-drive vehicles can be towed on a dolly with the front wheels on the ground provided that the wheels are straight. Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles If your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, it is not designed to be dolly towed. If you need to tow your vehicle, see “Dinghy Towing” earlier in this section.

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If your vehicle is not equipped with StabiliTrak®, use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Drive the vehicle up onto the tow dolly. 2. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 3. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 4. Firmly set the parking brake. 5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the

tow dolly.

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See

Four-Wheel Drive on page 150 for the proper procedure to select the NEUTRAL position for your vehicle.

7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

Level Control Automatic Level Control The automatic level control rear suspension is available on two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive light-duty vehicles and comes as a part of the Autoride® suspension, if equipped. This type of level control is fully automatic and will provide a better leveled riding position as well as better handling under a variety of passenger and loading conditions. An air compressor connected to the rear shocks will raise or lower the rear of the vehicle to maintain proper vehicle height. The system is activated when the ignition key is turned to RUN and will automatically adjust vehicle height thereafter. The system may exhaust (lower vehicle height) for up to ten minutes after the ignition key has been turned off. You may hear the air compressor operating when the height is being adjusted. If a weight-distributing hitch is being used, it is recommended to allow the shocks to inflate, thereby leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the hitch.

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Autoride® If equipped, the Autoride® feature will provide a superior vehicle ride and handling under a variety of passenger and loading conditions. The system is fully automatic and uses a computer controller to continuously monitor vehicle speed, wheel to body position, lift/dive and steering position of the vehicle. The controller then sends signals to each shock absorber to independently adjust the damping level to provide the optimum vehicle ride. Autoride® also interacts with the tow/haul switch that, when engaged, will provide additional control of the shock absorbers. This additional control results in better ride and handling characteristics when the vehicle is loaded or towing a trailer. See Tow/Haul Mode Light on page 259 for more information.

Towing a Trailer Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See New Vehicle Break-In on page 139 for more information.

{CAUTION:

If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

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To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in acceleration, braking, handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:129) There are many different laws, including speed

limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

(cid:129) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches”

later in this section.

(cid:129) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first

500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

(cid:129) Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that

you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

(cid:129) You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to

shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). See “Tow/Haul Mode” later in this section.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: (cid:129) The weight of the trailer (cid:129) The weight of the trailer tongue (cid:129) The weight on your vehicle’s tires

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Tow/Haul Mode Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the Tow/Haul mode is to: (cid:129) Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. (cid:129) Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Increase the charging system voltage to assist in recharging a battery installed in a trailer.

424

Press this button at the end of the shift lever to enable/disable the tow/haul mode.

A light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that tow/haul mode has been selected.

(cid:129) (cid:129) Your vehicle is equipped with a button at the end of the shift lever which, when pressed, enables tow/haul. Your vehicle may be equipped with Autoride® which further improves your vehicle’s ride while towing. See Autoride® on page 422 for more information. When the button is pressed, a light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that Tow/Haul has been selected. Tow/Haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off Tow/Haul every time it is started. Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See Weight of the Trailer later in this section. Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: (cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or

heavy load through rolling terrain.

(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or

heavy load in stop and go traffic.

(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or

heavy load in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.

Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.

425

Use one of the following charts to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options.

C-1500 (2WD)

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

4800 V8

5300 V8

5300 V8 (Extended

Models)

6000 V8 (Extended

Models)

3.23
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.73
4.10

4.10

4,200 lbs (1 905 kg) 6,200 lbs (2 812 kg) 6,200 lbs (2 812 kg) 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) 7,100 lbs (3 220 kg) 8,100 lbs (3 674 kg)

8,100 lbs (3 674 kg)

K-1500 (4WD)

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

5300 V8

5300 V8 (Extended

Models)

6000 V8 (Extended

Models)

3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10

4.10

6,700 lbs (3 039 kg) 7,700 lbs (3 493 kg) 7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 8,000 lbs (3 629 kg)

7,900 lbs (3 583 kg)

GCWR

10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)

14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)

GCWR

13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)

14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)

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C-2500 (2WD)

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

6000 V8 (Extended

Models)

3.73
4.10

7,700 lbs (3 493 kg) 9,700 lbs (4 400 kg)

K-2500 (4WD

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

6000 V8 (Extended

Models)

3.73
4.10

7,500 lbs (3 402 kg) 9,500 lbs (4 309 kg)

GCWR

14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg)

GCWR

14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg)

The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

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The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum of 600 lbs (272 kg) with a weight carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum of 1,000 lbs (453 kg) for the 1500 series and up to a maximum of 1,500 lbs (680 kg) for the 2500 series with a weight distributing hitch. Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle.

After you have loaded the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:

You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).

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Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.

But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:

Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle.

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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Loading Your Vehicle on page 407 for more information. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch.

Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches

(A) Body to Ground Distance (B) Front of Vehicle When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle. If you use a step-bumper hitch, the bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.

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If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when driving. Always use a sway control if the trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Safety Chains You should always attach safety chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Attach the safety chains to the attaching point on the hitch platform. If you are towing with an aftermarket hitch, following the trailer or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. If your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, your trailer cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if: (cid:129) The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi

(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

(cid:129) The trailer’s brake system will use less than 0.02 cubic inches (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.

If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

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Driving with a Trailer

{CAUTION:

If you have a rear-most window open and you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You cannot see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. See Engine Exhaust on page 160. To maximize your safety when towing a trailer:

(cid:129) Have your exhaust system inspected for leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:129) Keep the rear-most windows closed.

If exhaust does come into your vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use the climate control setting for maximum air because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. See Climate Control System on page 227.

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.

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(cid:129) Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.

You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode” earlier in this section for more information. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant at higher altitudes will boil at a lower temperature than at or near sea level. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 473.

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Parking on Hills

{CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brake, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer

wheels.

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release

the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your

parking brake and shift into PARK (P).

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