2006 Chevrolet Tahoe Owners Manual

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Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. Look at the brake ﬂuid reservoir. The ﬂuid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-103. 5-39 (cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. 5-40 Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-42 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. 5-41 Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to or ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. 5-42 Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put the automatic transmission in PARK (P) before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear, not in NEUTRAL. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all the lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind a red plastic cover, if equipped, near the engine accessory drive bracket. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover, if equipped. The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the engine drive bracket, or on the thermostat housing on the 8.1L engine. It is marked GND (Ground). See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on the location of the remote positive (+) and remote negative (−) terminals. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. 5-43 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 5-44 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the remote negative (−) terminal, marked GND, on the vehicle with the dead battery. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-45 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the bad battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover, if equipped, to its original position. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-46 All-Wheel Drive If your vehicle has the LTZ package, lubricant checks in this section also apply to this vehicle. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant Suburban LTZ (A) Drain Plug (B) Filler Plug To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. All axle assemblies are ﬁlled by volume of ﬂuid during production. They are not ﬁlled to reach a certain level. When checking the ﬂuid level on any rear axle, variations in the readings can be caused by factory ﬁll differences between the minimum and maximum ﬂuid volume. Also, if a vehicle has just been driven before checking the ﬂuid level, it may appear lower than normal because ﬂuid has traveled out along the axle tubes and has not drained back to the sump area. 5-47 Therefore, a reading taken ﬁve minutes after the vehicle has been driven will appear to have a lower ﬂuid level than a vehicle that has been stationary for an hour or two. Remember that the rear axle assembly must be supported to get a true reading. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. The proper level for the 2500 Series is from 0 to 1/2 inch (0 to 13 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Add only enough ﬂuid to reach the proper level. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 1500 Series shown, 2500 similar 5-48 (cid:127) (cid:127) Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak, or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. When to Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to change the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Automatic Transfer Case 5-49 Front Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant: (cid:127) When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 0 to 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) below the ﬁller plug hole. (cid:127) When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5-50 Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-57. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Headlamps To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11 for more information. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. 2. Remove the two pins on the top of the headlamp assembly. To remove them, turn the outer pin outward and pull it straight up. To remove the inner pin, turn it inward and pull it straight up. 5-51 Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime Running Lamps A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Retainer Clip C. Front Turn Signal Lamp D. Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. High-Beam Headlamp 3. Pull the headlamp assembly out. 4. Unplug the electrical connector. 5. Turn the bulb counterclockwise and remove it from the headlamp assembly. 6. Put the new bulb into the headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight. 7. Plug in the electrical connector. 8. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle. 9. Install and turn the two pins to secure the headlamp assembly. 5-52 To replace a front turn signal, sidemarker or DRL bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11 for more information. 2. Remove the headlamp assembly as described previously. See Headlamps on page 5-51 for more information. 5. Press the locking release lever, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal assembly. 6. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 7. Install a new bulb into the bulb socket. 8. Insert the bulb socket into the turn signal assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks. 9. Reinstall the turn signal assembly back into the vehicle placing the hook and posts on the inner side into the alignment holes ﬁrst, then the outer side into the retainer bracket until you hear a click. 10. Reinstall the headlamp assembly. 3. Press the retainer clip (B), located behind the turn signal assembly, towards the outside of the vehicle. 4. Pull the turn signal assembly out of the vehicle. 5-53 Roof Marker Lamps To replace a roof marker lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the two screws and lift off the lens. Side Identiﬁcation Marker Lamps To replace a side identiﬁcation marker bulb, do the following: 1. Locate the lamp gasket near the rear wheel to expose the service slot and pull back the edge. 2. Using a ﬂat tool, push into the slot to release the lamp housing. 3. Pull the housing out to expose the wiring harness and connector. 4. Unplug the lamp assembly harness from the housing. 5. Unplug the lamp. 6. Put in a new lamp and snap it into the housing. 7. Reinstall the lamp housing. 5-54 2. Install a new bulb into the socket and turn clockwise until it locks into place. To replace a center roof marker lamp bulb, do the following: 3. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws. 1. Remove the six screws from the center roof marker lamp assembly. 2. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise to remove it from the socket. 3. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws. 5-55 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Back-up Lamp C. Stoplamp/Taillamp To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Remove the two screws from the taillamp assembly. 2. Remove the taillamp assembly. 3. Press the release tab, if equipped, and turn the socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp housing. 5-56 4. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Back-up Lamp Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Front Roof Marker Lamp and Sidemarker Front Turn Signal Lamp Headlamps High-Beam Low-Beam Rear Turn Signal Lamp, Taillamp and Stoplamp Side Identiﬁcation Marker Lamp 3157 4114K 194 3157 9005 9006 3157 — For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. 5. Press a new bulb into the socket, insert the socket into the taillamp housing and turn the socket clockwise into the taillamp housing until it clicks. 6. Reinstall the taillamp assembly. 5-57 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield. 5-58 2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C). 3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm until you hear the release lever click into place. To replace the rear wiper blade, follow the steps listed above. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. 20-Inch Tires If your vehicle has the optional 20-inch P275/55R20 size tires, they are classiﬁed as touring tires and are designed for on road use. The low-proﬁle, wide tread design is not recommended for off-road driving. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-17, for additional information. 5-59 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire (A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. 5-60 (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-74. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire (A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual conﬁguration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. (D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (E) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. 5-61 (G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire 5-62 (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the ﬁrst two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75% as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. 5-63 Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. 5-64 Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-71. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-74. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: Too much ﬂexing Too much heat Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards 5-65 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door lock post (striker). This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and their recommended cold tire inﬂation pressures. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the spare tire. For additional information regarding the spare tire, see Spare Tire on page 5-99. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they’re underinﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. If your vehicle has this feature, sensors are mounted on each tire and wheel assembly, except the spare tire. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. The TPMS is designed to alert the driver, if a low tire pressure condition exists. This system also allows the driver to check tire pressure levels using the Driver Information Center (DIC). 5-66 When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS displays the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message on the DIC, and at the same time illuminates the low tire pressure warning symbol. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-52 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55. You may notice, during cooler weather conditions, that the tire pressure monitor light, located on the instrument panel cluster, and the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE message will appear when the vehicle is ﬁrst started and then turn off as you start to drive the vehicle. This could be an early indicator that the tire pressures are getting low and need to be inﬂated to the proper pressure. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inﬂated to the inﬂation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label, you should determine the proper inﬂation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated. Accordingly, When the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inﬂate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inﬂation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inﬂation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. The CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message and low tire pressure light (telltale) will appear at each ignition cycle until the tires are inﬂated to the correct inﬂation pressure. 5-67 You will have one minute to match the ﬁrst tire/wheel position, and ﬁve minutes overall to match all four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer than one minute, to match the ﬁrst tire and wheel, or more than ﬁve minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions the matching process stops and you will need to start over. The TPMS sensor matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to RUN with the engine off. 3. Turn the headlamp switch from off to the parking lamps setting four times within three seconds. A double horn chirp will sound and the TPMS low tire warning light will begin to ﬂash. The double horn chirp and ﬂashing TPMS warning light indicate that the TPMS matching process has started. The TPMS warning light should continue ﬂashing throughout the matching procedure. The SERVICE TIRE MONITOR message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC). 4. Start with the driver’s side front tire. The Tire and Loading Information label (tire information placard) shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the correct inﬂation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65. For the location of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48. Your vehicle’s TPMS can alert you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-70 and Tires on page 5-59. Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle has Tire Pressure Monitors. The liquid sealant can damage the tire pressure monitor sensors. Resetting the TPMS Identiﬁcation Codes Each TPMS sensor has a unique identiﬁcation code. Any time you rotate your vehicle’s tires or replace one or more of the TPMS sensors, the identiﬁcation codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. Each tire/wheel position is matched to a sensor, by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: LF TIRE (left front tire on the driver’s side of the vehicle), RF TIRE (right front tire on the passengers side of the vehicle), RR TIRE (right rear tire on the passengers side of the vehicle), and LR TIRE (left rear tire on the driver’s side of the vehicle). 5-68 5. Remove the valve cap from the valve cap stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for 10 seconds, then stop and listen for a single horn chirp. The single horn chirp should sound within 15 seconds, conﬁrming that the sensor identiﬁcation code has been matched to this tire and wheel position. If you do not hear the conﬁrming single horn chirp, you will need to start over with Step 1. To let air-pressure out of a tire you can use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage or a key. 6. Proceed to the passenger’s side front tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5. 7. Proceed to the passenger’s side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5. 8. Proceed to the driver’s side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5. 9. After hearing the conﬁrming horn chirp for the left rear tire, check to see if the TPMS warning light is still ﬂashing. If it is, turn the ignition switch to LOCK to exit the sensor matching process. If the TPMS warning light is not ﬂashing, the ﬁve minute time limit has passed and you will need to start the process over beginning with Step 1. 10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label. 11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. If you replace one of the road tires with the spare, the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE message will be displayed on the DIC screen. This message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor. The SERVICE TIRE MONITOR message is displayed when the TPMS is malfunctioning. One or more missing or inoperable TPMS sensors will cause the service tire monitor message to be displayed. See your dealer for service. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation. 5-69 The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device. Changes or modiﬁcations to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-71 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-75 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the ratchet/wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-79. 5-70 The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. When rotating your vehicle’s tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the spare tire in the tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the tire and loading information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65, for more information. Vehicles that have the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) will need to have the TPMS sensors reset after a tire rotation. See “TPMS Sensor Identiﬁcation Codes” under Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-66. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-118. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-79. When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators. You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. (cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. 5-71 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched speciﬁc tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical speciﬁcations that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-60 for additional information. {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size, brand, and type tires on all wheels. Your vehicle may have a different size spare than the road tires (those originally installed on your vehicle). When new, your vehicle included a spare tire and wheel assembly with a similar overall diameter as your vehicle’s road tires and wheels, so it is all right to drive on it. Because this spare was developed for use on your vehicle, it will not affect vehicle handling. 5-72 {CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-66. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle. Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, antilock brakes; traction control; and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected. {CAUTION: If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM speciﬁc wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certiﬁed technician. See Buying New Tires on page 5-72 and Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for additional information. 5-73 Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. 5-74 Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. 5-75 Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-79 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement. Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. 5-76 Tire Chains {CAUTION: If your vehicle has P265/75R16, LT265/75R16, P265/70R16, P265/70R17, or P275/55R20 size tires, do not use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your vehicle’s wheels. If you do ﬁnd traction devices that will ﬁt, install them on the rear tires. If you have a tire size other than Notice: P265/75R16, LT265/75R16, P265/70R16, P265/70R17, or P275/55R20 use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the rear tires only. Do not use chains on the front tires. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle. 5-77 If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. {CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a ﬂat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a ﬂat tire. If a tire goes ﬂat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a ﬂat tire safely. 5-78 Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning ﬂashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-5 for more information. {CAUTION: Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) 3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in NEUTRAL. 4. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised. 5. Do not allow passengers to remain in the vehicle. 6. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle. 5-79 When your vehicle has a ﬂat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks. Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The following information will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. Regular Models - Rear Access Panel A. Retaining Bracket and Wing Nut B. Tool Kit and Jack Tools C. Wing Nut Retaining Wheel Blocks D. Wheel Blocks E. Jack F. Knob 5-80 On the regular models, the equipment is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, behind the left trim panel in the rear of the vehicle. Unlatch the release lever to open the trim panel door. Skip the ﬁrst step and follow the last three. On the extended models, the equipment you will need is under the storage tray on the driver’s side of the vehicle, in the trim panel. 1. Remove the tray to access the tools. 2. Remove the wing nut used to retain the tool kit by turning it counterclockwise. 3. Turn the knob on the jack counterclockwise to release the jack from its holder and to lower the jack head. 4. Remove the wheel blocks and the wheel block retainer by turning the wing nut counterclockwise. You will use the jack handle extensions and the wheel wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire. 5-81 Extended Models A. Knob B. Removable Storage Tray C. Retaining Hook D. Retaining Bracket and Wing Nut E. Tool Kit and Jack Tools F. Mounting Bracket G. Wing Nut Retaining Wheel Blocks H. Wheel Blocks I. Jack 1. Open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and use the ignition key to remove the lock if your vehicle is equipped with a spare tire lock (J). 2. Assemble the wheel wrench (H) and the two jack handle extensions (I) as shown. A. Spare Tire (Valve Stem Pointed Down) B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of Extension Tool G. Hoist Shaft Access Hole H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle Extensions J. Spare Tire Lock (If Equipped) 5-82 3. Insert the spare tire end (open end) (F) of the extension through the hole (G) in the rear bumper. 4. Turn the wheel wrench (H) counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower. See Secondary Latch System on page 5-90. Be sure the hoist end of the extension connects to the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire. 5. Use the wheel wrench hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you to assist in reaching the spare tire. 5-83 6. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable when the tire has been lowered, so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening. Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire Use the following pictures and instructions to remove the ﬂat tire and raise the vehicle. 7. Put the spare tire near the ﬂat tire. 5-84 The tools you will be using include the jack (A), the wheel blocks (B), the jack handle (C), the jack handle extensions (D), and the wheel wrench (E). 1. Remove the center cap by placing the chisel end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently prying the cap out. If the wheel has bolt-on wheel covers, loosen the plastic nut caps by turning the wheel wrench in a counterclockwise direction. If needed, ﬁnish loosening them by hand. The nut caps will not come off. Using the ﬂat end of the wheel wrench, pry along the edge of the cover until it comes off. 2. Use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Do not remove the wheel nuts yet. 5-85 {CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. {CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. Jacking Locations (Overall View) A. Front Position B. Rear Position 5-86 3. Position the jack under the vehicle as shown. Front Position Front Tire Flat: If the ﬂat tire is on a front tire of the vehicle, you will need to use the jack handle (C) and only one jack handle extension (D). Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extension. Attach the jack handle to the jack. Position the jack on the frame behind the ﬂat tire where the frame sections overlap. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground. Rear Position – 1500 Series Rear Position – 2500 Series Rear Tire Flat: If the ﬂat tire is on a rear tire of the vehicle, you will need to use the jack handle (C) and both jack handle extensions (D). Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extensions. Attach the jack handle to the jack. Use the jacking pad provided on the rear axle. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground. 5-87 4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the ﬂat tire. 5. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. {CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. 5-88 6. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel after mounting the spare. 7. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the wheel wrench to tighten the nuts until the wheel is held against the hub. 8. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Lower the jack completely. {CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-118 for wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. 5-89 Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-118 for the wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. 9. Tighten the nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence as shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise. When you reinstall the regular wheel and tire, you must also reinstall the either the center cap, or bolt-on hub cap, depending on what your vehicle is equipped with. For center caps, place the cap on the wheel and tap it into place until it seats ﬂush with the wheel. 5-90 The cap only goes on one way. Be sure to line up the tab on the center cap with the indentation on the wheel. For bolt-on hub caps, align the plastic nut caps with the wheel nuts and then tighten by hand. Then use the wheel wrench to tighten. Secondary Latch System Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle. For the secondary latch to work, the spare must be installed with the valve stem pointing down. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-94. {CAUTION: Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed below. To release the spare tire from the secondary latch, do the following: 1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable end is visible. If the cable is not visible proceed to Step 6. 5. If the spare does not lower, turn the wrench counterclockwise until approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed. 6. Stand the wheel blocks on their shortest ends, with the backs facing each other. 7. Place the bottom edge of the jack (A) on the wheel blocks (B), separating them so that the jack is balanced securely. 2. If it is visible, ﬁrst try to tighten the cable by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable. 3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench counterclockwise three or four turns. 4. Repeat this procedure at least two times. If the spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with Step 5 of Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-80. 5-91 8. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheel wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel blocks) under the vehicle toward the front of the rear bumper. 9. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the spare tire. 10. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it lifts the end ﬁtting. 11. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops moving upward and is held ﬁrmly in place. The secondary latch has released and the spare tire is balancing on the jack. 12. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable. 5-92 {CAUTION: Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from the spare. 14. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle. 13. Disconnect the jack handle from the jack and carefully remove the jack. Use one hand to push against the spare while ﬁrmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire with the other hand. If the spare tire is hanging from the cable, insert the hoist handle, extension and wheel wrench into the hoist shaft hole in the bumper and turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare the rest of the way. 15. Turn the wheel wrench in the hoist shaft hole in the bumper clockwise to raise the cable back up if the cable is hanging under the vehicle. Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or ﬂat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been replaced. To continue changing the ﬂat tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 5-84. 5-93 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools {CAUTION: Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place. Notice: Storing an aluminum wheel with a ﬂat tire under your vehicle for an extended period of time or with the valve stem pointing up may damage the wheel. Always stow the wheel with the valve stem pointing down and have the wheel/tire repaired as soon as possible. 5-94 Store the tire under the rear of the vehicle in the spare tire carrier. Use the art and text following to help you: A. Spare Tire (Valve Stem Pointed Down) B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of Extension Tool G. Hoist Shaft Access Hole H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle Extensions J. Spare Tire Lock (If Equipped) 1. Remove the wheel center cap, if equipped. 2. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle with the valve stem pointed down, and to the rear. 3. Tilt the retainer downward and through the wheel opening. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel. 4. Attach the wheel wrench (H) and extensions (I) together. 5. Insert the hoist end (F) of the wheel wrench through the hole (G) in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft. 5-95 6. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the tire. After raising the tire halfway upward, check to make sure the retainer is still seated properly across the wheel opening and that the tire is level with the underside of the vehicle. 7. Continue raising the tire until it is fully against the underside of the vehicle and you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable. 8. For the Z71 model, to ensure that the tire is level and positioned properly in the spare tire well, turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise two turns to slightly loosen the tire and wheel assembly. Grasp the tire and make needed adjustments to ensure that the tire is completely level and properly positioned in the spare tire well. Repeat Step 7. 5-96 9. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull (A), and then try to turn (B) the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable. 10. Reinstall the spare tire lock (if equipped). Regular Models - Rear Access Panel A. Retaining Bracket and Wing Nut B. Jack Tools C. Wing Nut Retaining Wheel Blocks D. Wheel Blocks E. Jack F. Knob 1. Put the jack tools (B), in the tool bag and place in the retaining clip above the jack (E). 2. Tighten down with the wing nut (A). 3. Assemble the wheel blocks (D) and jack (E) together with the wing nut (D) and knob (F). 4. Position the jack storage cover in the left rear side panel and tighten, adjusting clockwise until the jack is secured tight in the mounting bracket. Be sure to position the holes in the base of the jack onto the pin in the mounting bracket. 5-97 1. Return the jack tools (E), to the tool bag. 2. Assemble wheel blocks (H) and jack (I) together with the wing nut (G) and retaining hook (C). 3. Position under the jack storage tray (B) in the left rear side panel below the wheelbase and tighten, adjusting clockwise until the jack is secured tight in the mounting bracket. Be sure to position the holes in the base of the jack onto the pin in the mounting bracket. 4. Use the retaining clip to fasten the tool kit on the stud in the storage compartment in the rear left trim panel and turn the wing nut clockwise to secure. 5. Return the storage tray (B) to its original location. Extended Models A. Knob B. Removable Storage Tray C. Retaining Hook D. Retaining Bracket and Wing Nut E. Jack Tools F. Mounting Bracket G. Wing Nut Retaining Wheel Blocks H. Wheel Blocks I. Jack 5-98 Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully-inﬂated spare tire. A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inﬂation pressure regularly. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48 for information regarding proper tire inﬂation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 5-84 and Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-94. Your vehicle may have a different size spare tire than the road tires originally installed on your vehicle. This spare tire was developed for use on your vehicle, so it is all right to drive on it. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive and the different size spare tire is installed, keep the vehicle in two-wheel drive. Notice: different size spare tire is installed on your vehicle, do not drive in four-wheel drive until you can have your ﬂat tire repaired and/or replaced. You could damage your vehicle, and the repair costs would not be covered by your warranty. Never use four-wheel drive when the different size spare tire is installed on your vehicle. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive and the After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inﬂated. Have the damaged or ﬂat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, the spare tire will be available in case you need it again. Do not mix tires and wheels of different sizes, because they will not ﬁt. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. If your vehicle has a spare tire that does not match your vehicle’s original road tires and wheels in size and type, do not include the spare in the tire rotation. Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. 5-99 If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior. When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners speciﬁcally designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth.

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2006 Chevrolet Tahoe Owners Manual