2002 Chevrolet Tahoe Owners Manual

can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel (Gasoline) The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E-85); also see “Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol)” following. In all other engines, including the 5.3L V8 (VIN Code T), use only regular unleaded gasoline. Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it is bad enough, it can damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary.

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Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers’ Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Canada Only

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Additives Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E-85); also see “Fuel (Gasoline)” listed previously. In all other engines, including the 5.3L V8 (Code T), use only regular unleaded gasoline.

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Only vehicles that have the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z) may use 85% ethanol fuel (E-85). Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E-85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (http://afdcmap.nrel.gov/nrel/) that can help you find E-85 fuel. Those stations that do have E-85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. Your vehicle may not operate properly if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. At a minimum, E-85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. To insure quick starts in the wintertime, the E-85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E-85, it may be because your E-85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to your fuel tank may improve starting. Your vehicle is designed to accommodate a mixture of gasoline and E-85 fuel. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32_F (0_C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol.

E-85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you’ll need to refill your fuel tank more often when using E-85
than when you’re using gasoline. Regular unleaded gasoline is recommended when pulling a trailer. For payload capacity with ethanol fuel see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Some additives are not compatible with E-85 fuel and may harm your fuel system. Damage caused by additives wouldn’t be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Don’t use additives with E-85 fuel.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. Don’t use fuel containing methanol.

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Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. Filling Your Tank

CAUTION:

The fuel cap is located on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

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CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

While refueling, hang the fuel cap by the tether using the hook located on the inside of the filler door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

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When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into

approved containers.

D Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

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Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood do the following:

CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

1. Pull the handle inside

the vehicle located under and to the left of the steering wheel.

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2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on

the secondary hood release located near the center of the grill.

3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the VORTEC 5300 V8 engine (VORTEC 4800 and 6000 V8 engines similar), you’ll see the following:

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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If Equipped) F. Engine Oil Fill G. Fan

H. Remote Negative (-) Terminal (GND) I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal K. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir L. Underhood Fuse Block M. Battery N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

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When you open the hood on the VORTEC 8100 V8 engine you’ll see the following:

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick F. Engine Oil Fill 6-14

G. Fan H. Remote Negative (-)

Terminal (GND)

I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir

K. Brake Master Fluid Reservoir L. Underhood Fuse Block M. Battery N. Windshield Washer

Fluid Reservoir

Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Engine Oil

If the CHECK ENG OIL LEVEL message appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.

For more information, see “CHECK ENG OIL LEVEL” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

8100 Engines

All Other Engines

The engine oil dipstick has a yellow ring handle and is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

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8100 Engines

All Other Engines

The engine oil fill cap for the VORTEC 4800, 5300, 6000 and 8100 V8
engines is located on the engine valve cover, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

Your vehicle may have a cap with text and a graphic, or just a graphic as shown. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life Systemt) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

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How to Reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL Message The GM Oil Life Systemt calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal

three times within five seconds.

If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message flashes for five seconds, the system is reset.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The engine air cleaner/filter assembly has an indicator that lets you know when the air filter is dirty and needs to be serviced. The indicator is located on the air cleaner cover. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index to determine when to check the indicator.

The service window A with the percentage scale shows the amount of engine air cleaner/filter life used. When both service window A and service window B turn orange, replace the engine air cleaner/filter.

After changing the air filter, press the top button on the indicator to reset it.

Your engine air cleaner/filter is located in the front corner of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

1. To remove the engine/air cleaner filter, loosen the

screws on the housing cover.

2. Then lift the cover upward and remove the filter

from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.

3. Clean the filter sealing surface and the filter housing. 4. Install the new filter. 5. Reinstall the housing cover.

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Passenger Compartment Air Filter (If Equipped) Your vehicle may be equipped with a passenger compartment air filter. The filter is located under the instrument panel, below the glove compartment. Your vehicle may or may not be equipped with an access panel. To replace the passenger compartment air filter, do the following: 1. If your vehicle has an access panel, remove the bolts on it and set the panel aside. If your vehicle does not have the access panel, skip this step.

3. Remove the air filter by pulling downward on the

element. Remove the second portion of the air filter by sliding it towards the rear of the vehicle and then pulling downward.

4. Install the new filter by reversing the steps listed previously. Be sure to follow any instructions that may be included in the replacement filter package.

Because this procedure can be a little difficult, you may choose to have it done at your dealer’s service department. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the passenger compartment air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance” in the Index.

2. Next, pull

downward on the filter retaining bracket.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50_F (10_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and

wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

The red transmission dipstick handle with the TRANS/LOCK text or graphic is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side.

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross–hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross–hatched area for a hot check. 4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

1500 Series shown, 2500 and 3500 Series similar To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 2500 Series is from 0 to 3/8 inch (0 to 10 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.

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How to Check Lubricant

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Front Axle

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

Automatic Transfer Case

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant

The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

If the LOW COOLANT light comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

See “Low Coolant” in the Index.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FILL COLD mark.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.

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Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap

Your vehicle may be equipped with one of the two caps shown. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank.

NOTICE:

Your coolant surge tank pressure cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating.

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Power Steering Fluid

8100 Engines

All Other Engines

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.

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So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Checking Brake Fluid

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

NOTICE:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for battery location. WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

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Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index for the proper types of bulbs to use. Halogen Bulbs

CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

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Headlamps

1. Remove the two pins on the top of the headlamp assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin outward and pull it straight up. To remove the inner pin, turn it in and pull it straight up.

A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. High-Beam Headlamp

2. Pull the headlamp assembly out. 3. Unplug the electrical connector. 4. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it

from the headlamp assembly.

5. Put the new bulb into the assembly and turn it

clockwise until it is tight. Use care not to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands. 6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

Install and tighten the two pins.

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Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime Running Lamps

1. Remove the headlamp assembly as

mentioned previously.

2. Press the retainer clip, located behind the turn signal

housing, towards the outside of the vehicle.

3. Pull the turn signal housing out from the vehicle. 4. Press the locking release lever, turn the bulb

socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal housing.

5. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 6. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. Use care not

to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands.

7. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing and

turn it clockwise until it locks.

8. Put the turn signal housing back onto the vehicle

placing the hook and posts on the inner side into the alignment holes first and then the outer side into the retainer bracket. Push until you hear a click.

9. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Retainer Clip C. Front Turn Signal Lamp D. Daytime Running Lamp

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Taillamps

A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Back-up Lamp C. Stoplamp

2. Remove the lamp assembly. 3. Press the release tab and turn the bulb

socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp housing.

4. Pull the old bulb straight

out from the socket.

1. Use a tool to remove the

two screws from the lamp assembly.

5. Press a new bulb into the socket, insert the socket

into the taillamp housing and turn the socket clockwise into the taillamp housing until it clicks.

6. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly.

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Roof Marker Lamps

1. Remove the two screws

and lift off the lens.

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2. The center roof marker lamps has six screws

to remove.

3. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise to remove it

from the socket.

4. Put a new bulb into the

socket and turn clockwise until it locks in place.

5. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in the Index for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index.

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To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is facing

away from the windshield.

2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly

toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.

3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details.

CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as

overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

D Overinflated tires are more likely to be

cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Certification/Tire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy

NOTICE: (Continued)

NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the ratchet/wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” in the Index. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

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When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

D You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fabric.

D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow).

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If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

If your vehicle has 17 inch road tires (those originally installed on your vehicle) it is all right to drive with the 16 inch spare tire that came with your vehicle. When new, your vehicle included a spare tire and wheel assembly with the same overall diameter as your vehicle’s road tires and wheels. Because this spare tire was developed for use on your vehicle, it will not affect vehicle handling or cause damage to your vehicle.

CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

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Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

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NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Used Replacement Wheels

CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

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Tire Chains

CAUTION:

If your vehicle has P265/75R16, LT265/75R16 or P265/70R16 size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

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NOTICE:

If you have a tire size other than P265/75R16, LT265/75R16 or P265/70R16, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Don’t use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

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Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: D Alcohol D Laundry Soap D Bleach D Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Here are some cleaning tips: D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. D Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set.

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D Carefully scrape off any excess stain. D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the

entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask

surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. 3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate

the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge

to remove any excess cleaner.

6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened

towel or cloth.

7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to

dry completely.

3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.

You may have to do it more than once.

D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain

if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your

dealer for this product.

D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

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Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

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Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

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Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.

NOTICE:

Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.

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Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts. Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels (If Equipped) Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels.

Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels. Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.

NOTICE:

When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.

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Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty. Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection.

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At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you. Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first. This applies only to materials manufactured and sold by General Motors. Bodies, body conversions or equipment not made or sold by General Motors are not covered.

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

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Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.

Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts. Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label located in the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: D your VIN, D the model designation, D paint information and D a list of all production options and

special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

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Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment

NOTICE:

Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. Windshield Wipers The windshield wiper motor is protected by an internal circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed.

Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away. Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible thermal links. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette lighter -- and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can.

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Instrument Panel Fuse Block

The fuse block access door is on the driver’s side edge of the instrument panel. Pull off the cover to access the fuse block.

You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor which is mounted to the fuse block access door. To remove fuses if you don’t have a fuse extractor, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out. You may have spare fuses located behind the fuse block access door. These can be used to replace a bad fuse. However, make sure it is of the correct amperage.

Fuse HVAC 1
IGN 3
BRAKE

Usage Climate Control System Ignition, Power Seats Anti-Lock Brake System

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Fuse HTR A/C IGN 0

CRUISE 4WD

TURN

RR WIPER WS WPR SEO IGN

ILLUM IGN 1
SEO ACCY

L BODY CRANK

Usage Climate Control System PRND321 Display, Odometer, PCM Cruise Control, Instrument Cluster Four-Wheel Drive System, Auxiliary Battery Exterior Lamps, Turn Signals, Hazard Lamps Rear Window Wiper Windshield Wipers Special Equipment Option, Ignition, OnStarR Interior Lamps Ignition, Instrument Panel Special Equipment Option Accessory, Cellular Telephone Retained Accessory Power Relay Starting System

Usage Air Bag Power Mirrors, Power Door Locks Power Seat Circuit Breaker Power Door Locks Retained Accessory Power Relay Power Door Locks Interior Lamps Power Door Locks

Fuse AIR BAG MIR/LOCK SEAT DR LOCK RAP #1
LOCK INT PRK UNLOCK DRV UNLOCK Power Door Lock Relay L DOOR Power Door Lock Relay Power Window Circuit Breaker PWR WDO Audio System, OnStarR RDO I RAP #2
Rear Power Windows, Sunroof, Radio, OnStarR Power Door Lock Relay Power Door Lock Relay

LOCK UNLOCK

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Center Instrument Panel Fuse Block The center instrument panel fuse block is located underneath the instrument panel, to the left of the steering column.

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Relay Name SEO HTD ST SPARE VANITY TRAILER PWR ST SPARE UPF PARK LAMP FRT PRK EXPT* SPARE 2
PUDDLE LP SL RIDE SPARE 3
INADV PWR CTSY LP CEL PHONE

Usage Special Equipment Option Heated Seats Not Used Headliner Wiring Trailer Brake Wiring Power Seats Not Used Upfitter Parking Lamps (Relay) Not Used Not Used Puddle Lamps Not Used Not Used Interior Lights Feed (Relay) Courtesy Lamps (Relay) Cellular Telephone Wiring

Underhood Fuse Block

The underhood fuse block is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle near the battery. Lift the cover for access to the fuse/relay block. You will see fuses to the top right of the fuse center block once you remove the cover. These are spare fuses and can be used accordingly. You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor. The fuse extractor is located in the underhood fuse block. To remove fuses if you don’t have a fuse extractor, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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Fuse STUD #1

ABS IGN A AIR RAP #1

IGN B RAP #2

STUD #2

TRL R TRN TRL L TRN IGN 1
INJ B STARTER

Usage Accessory Power/Trailer Wiring Feed/Load Leveling Anti-Lock Brakes Ignition Switch A.I.R. System Retained Accessory Power, Power Mirrors, Power Door Locks, Power Seat(s) Ignition Switch Retained Accessory Power/Rear Power Windows, Sunroof, Radio Accessory Power/Trailer Wiring Brake Feed Right Turn Signal Trailer Wiring Left Turn Signal Trailer Wiring Ignition, Fuel Controls Ignition, Fuel Controls (Relay) Starter (Relay)

Fuse PARK LP FRT HVAC STOP LP ECM I CHMSL VEH STOP TRL B/U INJ A RR HVAC VEH B/U ENG 1

ETC IGN E

B/U LP

Usage Parking Lamps Climate Control System Exterior Lamps, Stoplamps PCM Center High Mounted Stoplamp Stoplamps, Cruise Control Backup Lamps Trailer Wiring Fuel Controls, Ignition Rear HVAC Vehicle Backup Lamps Engine Controls, Canister Purge,