2000 Chevrolet Tahoe Owners Manual

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Playing a Cassette Tape Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that are up to 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin they may not work well in this player. To load a cassette tape with the ignition off, press EJECT or RECALL. Then, insert the cassette tape. If the ignition is on but the radio is off, the tape will begin playing. Once the tape is playing, use the VOL, AUTO TONE, BAL, FADE, BASS and TREB controls just as you do for the radio. The tape symbol and a direction arrow will be on the display whenever a tape is being played. Anytime a tape is inserted, the top side is selected for play first. The player automatically senses if the cassette tape is metal or CrO2 and adjusts for best playback sound. PREV (1): Press the PREV button or the SEEK left arrow to search for the previous selection. A minimum three-second blank gap is required for the player to stop at the beginning of the selection. The tape direction arrow will blink during the SEEK operation.

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PROG (2): Press this button to switch from one side of the tape to the other. NEXT (3): Press the NEXT button or the SEEK right arrow to search for the next selection. A minimum three-second blank gap is required for the player to stop at the beginning of the selection. The tape direction arrow will blink during the SEEK operation. The sound will mute while searching for the next selection. REV (4): Press this button to rapidly reverse the tape to the beginning of the cassette or until you press REV again. The radio will play the last selected station while reversing the tape. The tape direction arrow will blink during the reverse operation. D (5): Press this button to reduce cassette tape noise. The double-D symbol will appear on the display while the player is in this mode. Dolby Noise Reduction is manufactured under a license from Dolby Laboratories Licensing Corporation. Dolby and the double-D symbol are trademarks of Dolby Laboratories Licensing Corporation. FWD (6): Press this button to rapidly forward the tape to the end of the cassette or until you press FWD again. The radio will play the last selected station while forwarding the tape. The tape direction arrow will blink during the forward operation.

AM-FM: Press this button to switch from a tape to the radio. TAPE AUX: Press this button to return to the tape player when playing the radio. The lighted arrow will appear and show the direction of play when a tape is in the active mode. EJECT: Press this button to remove the tape. The radio will now play. EJECT can be used with either the ignition or radio off. To load a cassette tape with the ignition or radio off, press EJECT before loading the cassette. CLN: If this message appears on the display, the cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to the tapes and player. See “Care of Your Cassette Tape Player” in the Index. After you clean the player, press and hold EJECT for five seconds to reset the CLN indicator. The radio will display --- to show the indicator was reset.

CD Adapter Kits It is possible to use a portable CD player adapter kit with your cassette tape player after activating the bypass feature on your tape player. To activate the bypass feature, use the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY. 2. Turn the radio off. 3. Press and hold the TAPE AUX button for five

seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash for two seconds, indicating the feature is active.

4. Insert the adapter into the cassette slot. It will

power up the radio and begin playing.

This override routine will remain active until EJECT is pressed.

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AM-FM Stereo with Compact Disc Player and Automatic Tone Control (If Equipped)

Playing the Radio PWR-VOL: Press this knob to turn the system on and off. To increase volume, turn this knob clockwise. Turn it counterclockwise to decrease volume. The knob is capable of rotating continuously. RECALL: Display the time with the ignition off by pressing this button. When the radio is playing, press this button to recall the station frequency.

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SCV: Your system has a feature called Speed-Compensated Volume (SCV). With SCV, your audio system adjusts automatically to make up for road and wind noise as you drive. Set the volume at the desired level. Turn the control ring behind the upper knob clockwise to adjust the SCV. Then, as you drive, SCV automatically increases the volume, as necessary, to overcome noise at any particular speed. The volume level should always sound the same to you as you drive. If you don’t want to use SCV, turn the control all the way down. Each notch on the control ring allows for more volume compensation at faster vehicle speeds.

Finding a Station AM-FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1 and FM2. The display will show your selection. TUNE: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn it to choose radio stations. Push the knob back into its stored position when you’re not using it. SEEK: Press the right arrow to tune to the next higher station and the left arrow to tune to the next lower station and stay there. The sound will mute while seeking.

SCAN: Press and hold SEEK for two seconds until SCAN appears on the display. SCAN allows you to listen to stations for a few seconds. The receiver will continue to scan and momentarily stop at each station until you press the button again. The sound will mute while scanning. PUSHBUTTONS: The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to 18 stations (six AM, six FM1 and six FM2). Just: 1. Turn the radio on. 2. Press AM-FM to select the band. 3. Tune in the desired station. 4. Press AUTO TONE to select the setting you prefer. 5. Press and hold one of the six pushbuttons. The

sound will mute. When it returns, release the button. Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return and the tone you selected will be automatically selected for that button.

6. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.

P.SCAN: The preset scan button lets you scan through your favorite stations stored on your pushbuttons. Select either the AM, FM1 or FM2 mode and then press P.SCAN. It will scan through each station stored on your pushbuttons and stop for a few seconds before continuing to scan through all of the pushbuttons. Press P.SCAN again or one of the pushbuttons to stop scanning to listen to a specific stored station. P.SCAN will light up on the display while in this mode. If one of the stations stored on a pushbutton is too weak for the location you are in, the radio display will show the channel number (P1-P6) for several seconds before advancing to the next preset station.

Setting the Tone BASS: Press lightly on this knob to release it from its stored position. Turn the knob clockwise to increase bass and counterclockwise to decrease bass. When the BASS control is rotated, the AUTO TONE display will go blank. TREB: Press lightly on this knob to release it from its stored position. Turn the knob clockwise to increase treble and counterclockwise to decrease treble. When the TREB control is rotated, the AUTO TONE display will go blank. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble. Push these knobs back into their stored positions when you’re not using them.

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AUTO TONE: Press this button to select among the six preset equalization settings and tailor the sound to the music or voice being heard. Each time you press the button, the selection will switch to one of the preset settings of CLASSIC, NEWS, ROCK, POP, C/W (Country/Western) or JAZZ. To return to the manual mode, press and release this button until the AUTO TONE display goes blank. This will return the tone adjustment to the BASS and TREB controls. If a BASS or TREB control is rotated, the AUTO TONE display will go blank. Use PUSHBUTTONS to program AUTO TONE.

Adjusting the Speakers BAL: Press lightly on this knob to release it from its stored position. Turn the control clockwise to adjust sound to the right speakers and counterclockwise to adjust sound to the left speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers. FADE: Press lightly on this knob to release it from its stored position. Turn the control clockwise to adjust the sound to the front speakers and counterclockwise for the rear speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers. Push these knobs back into their stored positions when you’re not using them.

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Playing a Compact Disc PWR: Press this knob to turn the system on. (You can also turn the system on when you insert a compact disc into the player with the ignition on.) Insert a disc partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull it in. Wait a few seconds and the disc should play. CD and a CD symbol will also appear on the display. Anytime you are playing a CD, the letters CD will be next to the CD symbol. If the disc comes back out and ERR appears on the display, it could be that: D You are driving on a very rough road. (The disc

should play when the road gets smoother.)

D The disc is upside down. D It is dirty, scratched or wet. D It is very humid. (If so, wait about an hour

and try again.)

D The disc player is very hot. Press RECALL to make ERR go off the display.

PREV (1): Press PREV or the SEEK left arrow to search for the previous selection. If you hold this button or press it more than once, the disc will advance further. Sound is muted in this mode. RDM (2): Press this button to play the tracks on the disc in random order. While in the RDM mode, RANDOM appears on the display. Press RDM again to return to normal play. NEXT (3): Press NEXT or the SEEK right arrow to search for the next selection. If you hold this button or press it more than once, the disc will advance further. The next track number will appear on the display. Sound is muted in this mode. REV (4): Press and hold REV to return rapidly to a favorite passage. You will hear the disc selection play at high speed while you press the REV button. This allows you to listen and find out when the disc is at the desired selection. Release REV to resume playing. FWD (6): Press and hold this button to advance rapidly within a track. You will hear the disc selection play at high speed while you press the FWD button. This allows you to listen and find out when the disc is at the desired selection. Release FWD to resume playing.

RECALL: Press this button to see what track is playing. Press it again within five seconds to see how long the CD has been playing that track. Elapsed time is displayed in minutes and seconds. The track number will also appear when a new track begins to play. Press RECALL again to return to the time display. AM-FM: While in the CD mode, press this button to stop playing the CD and play the radio. The CD symbol will still display but the word CD will be replaced with either AM, FM1 or FM2. (If the radio is turned off, the disc stays in the player and will resume playing at the point where it stopped.) CD AUX: To switch between the player and the radio when a disc is playing, press the AM-FM button. To return to the player, press CD AUX. When a disc is playing, the letters CD and the CD symbol will appear on the display. (If the radio is turned off, the disc stays in the player and will resume playing at the point where it stopped.) EJECT: Press this button to eject the disc from the player and play the radio. When the same or a new disc is inserted, the disc will start playing on track one. If a compact disc is left sitting in the opening for more than a few seconds, the player will pull the CD back in. The radio will continue playing. When the ignition is off, press this button to load a CD.

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Rear Seat Audio (If Equipped)

This feature allows rear seat passengers to listen to any of the music sources including AM-FM, automatic tone control, cassette tapes and CDs. However, the rear seat passengers can only control the music sources that the front seat passengers are not listening to. For example, rear seat passengers may listen to a cassette tape through headphones while the driver listens to the radio through the front speakers. The rear seat passengers have control of the volume for each set of headphones. Be aware that the front seat audio controls always override the rear seat audio controls. Note that this feature is intended for rear seat passengers.

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PWR: Press this button to turn the rear seat audio system on or off. The rear speakers will be muted when the power is turned on. You may operate the rear seat audio functions even when the primary radio power is off. VOL: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn the knob clockwise to increase volume and counterclockwise to decrease volume. Push the knob back into its stored position when you’re not using it. The upper VOL knob controls the upper headphone and the lower VOL knob controls the lower headphone. AM-FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1
and FM2. If the front passengers are already listening to AM-FM, the rear seat audio controller will not switch between the bands and cannot change the frequency. SEEK: While listening to AM-FM, press the up arrow to tune to the next higher station and stay there. Press the down arrow to tune to the next lower station and stay there. The sound will mute while seeking. The SEEK button is inactive if the AM-FM mode on the front radio is in use. While listening to a cassette tape, press the up arrow to hear the next selection on the tape. Press the down arrow to go back to the previous selection. The SEEK button is inactive if the tape mode on the front radio is in use.

While listening to a CD, press the up arrow to hear the next selection on the CD. Press the down arrow to go back to the start of the current selection (if more than eight seconds have played). The SEEK button is inactive if the CD mode on the front radio is in use. SCAN: Press and hold SEEK until the radio goes into SCAN mode. SCAN allows you to listen to stations for a few seconds. The receiver will continue to scan and momentarily stop at each station until you press SEEK again. The SCAN function is inactive if the AM-FM mode on the front radio is in use. P.SET PROG: The front passengers must be listening to something different for each of these functions to work: D Press this button to seek through the preset radio

stations set on your primary radio pushbuttons.

D When a cassette tape is playing, press this button

to go to the other side of the tape.

TAPE CD: With a cassette tape/CD in the player and the radio playing, press this button to play a cassette tape/CD. Press AM-FM to return to the radio when a cassette tape/CD is playing. The inactive tape/CD will remain safely inside the radio for future listening.

Remote Compact Disc Player (If Equipped)

If you have this option, you can play one compact disc (CD) at a time. To load a CD into the player, hold the disc with the label side up and insert it carefully into the player (approximately halfway). The disc will automatically be pulled into the player. If the radio is off and the ignition is on when a CD is inserted, the radio will turn on and begin playing the CD. It is possible to load and unload CDs with the ignition off. To load a disc with the ignition off, press the EJECT button on the remote player and then insert the disc. To remove the disc, press the EJECT button and remove the disc from the player.

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A disc that has been ejected but is still sitting in the remote CD player will be pulled back into the player after approximately 30 seconds. This protects the disc and player from damage. The disc will not start playing. To remove the disc, press the EJECT button and remove the disc from the player. All of the compact disc functions are controlled by the radio buttons except for EJECT. When a disc is in the player, a CD symbol will appear on the display. When a disc is playing, the letters CD will appear next to the CD symbol in the bottom left corner. The track number will also be displayed. If the disc comes back out and ERR appears on the display, it could be that: D The disc is upside down. D It is dirty, scratched or wet. D There’s too much moisture in the air. (Wait about

an hour and try again.)

D You are driving on a very rough road. Please contact your dealership if any error recurs or cannot be corrected.

PREV (1): Press this button to go back to the start of the current track if more than eight seconds have played. Press PREV again to go to the previous track on the disc. NEXT (3): Press this button to advance to the next track on the disc. REV (4): Press and hold this button to quickly reverse within a track. As the CD reverses, elapsed time will be displayed to help you find the correct passage. FWD (6): Press and hold this button to quickly advance within a track. As the CD advances, elapsed time will be displayed to help you find the correct passage. SEEK: Press the left arrow while playing a CD to go back to the start of the current track. It will go back to the current track if more than eight seconds have played. Press the left arrow again to go to previous tracks. Press the right arrow to go to the next higher track on the disc.

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RANDOM: Press P.SCAN to enter the random play mode. RANDOM will appear on the display. While in this mode, the tracks on the disc will be played in random order. If you press SEEK, PREV or NEXT while in the random mode, the previous or next track will be scanned randomly. Press P.SCAN again to turn off RANDOM and return to normal operation. RECALL: Press this button to see what track is currently playing. Press RECALL again within five seconds to see how long the track has been playing. When a new track starts to play, the track number will also appear. Press RECALL a third time and the time of day will be displayed. TAPE AUX: With a disc loaded in the player and the radio playing, press this button once to play the compact disc. To return to playing the radio, press AM-FM. If both a cassette tape and CD are loaded, press TAPE AUX to switch between the tape and compact disc. EJECT: Press this button on the remote player to eject a compact disc.

Theft-Deterrent Feature (If Equipped) THEFTLOCKR is designed to discourage theft of your radio. It works by using a secret code to disable all radio functions whenever battery power is removed. The THEFTLOCK feature for the radio may be used or ignored. If ignored, the system plays normally and the radio is not protected by the feature. If THEFTLOCK is activated, your radio will not operate if stolen. When THEFTLOCK is activated, the radio will display LOC to indicate a locked condition anytime battery power has been interrupted. If your battery loses power for any reason, you must unlock the radio with the secret code before it will operate.

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Activating the Theft-Deterrent Feature The instructions which follow explain how to enter your secret code to activate the THEFTLOCK system. It is recommended that you read through all nine steps before starting the procedure. If you allow more than 15 seconds to elapse between any steps, the radio automatically reverts to time and you must start the procedure over at Step 4. 1. Write down any three or four-digit number from 000 to 1999 and keep it in a safe place separate from the vehicle.

2. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY or RUN. 3. Turn the radio off. 4. Press the 1 and 4 buttons together. Hold them down until --- shows on the display. Next you will use the secret code number which you have written down.

5. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display. 6. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree

with your code.

7. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree

with your code.

8. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the

code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show REP to let you know that you need to repeat Steps 5 through 7 to confirm your secret code.

9. Press AM-FM and this time the display will show SEC to let you know that your radio is secure. The LED indicator by the volume control will begin flashing when the ignition is turned off.

Unlocking the Theft-Deterrent Feature After a Power Loss Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between steps: 1. Turn the ignition on. LOC will appear on the display. 2. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display. 3. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree

with your code.

4. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree

with your code.

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5. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the

code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show SEC, indicating the radio is now operable and secure.

If you enter the wrong code eight times, INOP will appear on the display. You will have to wait an hour with the ignition on before you can try again. When you try again, you will only have three chances to enter the correct code before INOP appears. If you lose or forget your code, contact your dealer. Disabling the Theft-Deterrent Feature Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between steps: 1. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY or RUN. 2. Turn the radio off. 3. Press the 1 and 4 buttons together. Hold them down

until SEC shows on the display.

4. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display. 5. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree

with your code.

Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree with your code. 6. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the

code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show ---, indicating that the radio is no longer secured.

If the code entered is incorrect, SEC will appear on the display. The radio will remain secured until the correct code is entered. When battery power is removed and later applied to a secured radio, the radio won’t turn on and LOC will appear on the display. To unlock a secured radio, see “Unlocking the Theft-Deterrent Feature After a Power Loss” earlier in this section.

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Understanding Radio Reception

AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it.

FM Stereo FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go. Tips About Your Audio System Hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe sound level before your hearing adapts to it.

To help avoid hearing loss or damage: D Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting. D Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably

and clearly.

NOTICE:

Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle -- like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two-way radio -- be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, Delphi Delco Electronics radio or other systems, and even damage them. Your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly. So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check Federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.

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Care of Your Cassette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight and extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate properly or may cause failure of the tape player. Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every 50 hours of use. Your radio may display CLN to indicate that you have used your tape player for 50 hours without resetting the tape clean timer. If this message appears on the display, your cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to your tapes and player. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if it is the tape or the tape player at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player.

The recommended cleaning method for your cassette tape player is the use of a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn. The recommended cleaning cassette is available through your dealership (GM Part No. 12344789). When using a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette, it is normal for the cassette to eject because your unit is equipped with a cut tape detection feature and a cleaning cassette may appear as a broken tape. To prevent the cleaning cassette from being ejected, use the following steps. 1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY. 2. Turn the radio off. 3. Press and hold the TAPE AUX button for five

seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash for two seconds.

4. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette. 5. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s

recommended cleaning time.

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If your vehicle is equipped with the AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player: 1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY. 2. Turn the radio on. 3. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette. 4. Within five seconds, press and hold the REV and FWD buttons at the same time for three seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash, showing that the cut tape detection feature is no longer active.

5. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s

recommended cleaning time.

If your vehicle is equipped with the AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player and Automatic Tone Control: 1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY. 2. Turn the radio off. 3. Press and hold the TAPE AUX button for five

seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash for two seconds.

4. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette. 5. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s

recommended cleaning time.

When the cleaning cassette has been ejected, the cut tape detection feature is active again. You may also choose a non-scrubbing action, wet-type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject on its own. A non-scrubbing action cleaner may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner. The use of a non-scrubbing action, dry-type cleaning cassette is not recommended. After you clean the player, press and hold EJECT for five seconds to reset the CLN indicator. The radio will display --- to show the indicator was reset. Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced.

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Care of Your Compact Discs Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the signal surface when handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge. Care of Your Compact Disc Player The use of CD lens cleaner discs is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism.

Fixed Mast Antenna The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should replace it. Check every once in a while to be sure the mast is still tightened to the cowl.

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Section 4 Your Driving and the Road

Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions. We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.

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Defensive Driving Drunken Driving Control of a Vehicle Braking Traction Assist System (Option) Steering Off-Road Recovery Passing Loss of Control Off-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle

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Driving at Night Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads City Driving Freeway Driving Before Leaving on a Long Trip Highway Hypnosis Hill and Mountain Roads Winter Driving Recreational Vehicle Towing Loading Your Vehicle Towing a Trailer

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Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task -- such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor -- makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.

Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.)

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Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: D Judgment D Muscular Coordination D Vision D Attentiveness. Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, over 17,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured. Many adults -- by some estimates, nearly half the adult population -- choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws.

The obvious way to solve the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things: D The amount of alcohol consumed D The drinker’s body weight D The amount of food that is consumed before and

during drinking

D The length of time it has taken the drinker to

consume the alcohol.

According to the American Medical Association, a 180-lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.

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Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in many U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In a growing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, the limit is 0.08 percent. In some other countries, it’s even lower. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!

It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men.

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The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking -- driver or passenger -- is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

CAUTION:

Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious -- or even fatal -- collision if you drive after drinking. Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

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Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle. (Also see “Traction Assist System” in the Index.)

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Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.

Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking -- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes (ABS). ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on. This is normal.

If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, this warning light will stay on. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

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The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.

Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet. You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS. A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at both rear wheels.

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You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.

Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some noise, but this is normal. On vehicles with four-wheel drive, your anti-lock brakes work at all times -- whether you are in two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive.

Braking in Emergencies With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.

Traction Assist System (Option) Your vehicle may have a Traction Assist System (TAS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the rear wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system reduces engine power to limit wheel spin.

This light will come on when the TAS is limiting wheel spin. See “Low Traction Light” in the Index.

You may hear or feel the system working or notice a lack of accelerator response, but this is normal. The Traction Assist System may operate on dry roads under some conditions. When this happens, you may notice a reduction in acceleration. This is normal and doesn’t mean there’s a problem with your vehicle. Examples of these conditions include a hard acceleration in a turn, an abrupt upshift or downshift of the transmission or driving on rough roads.

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If your vehicle is in cruise control when the TAS begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may turn the cruise control back on. See “Cruise Control” in the Index.

When the TRACTION OFF light is on, the TAS is off and will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly.

The TRACTION OFF light will come on under the following conditions: D The Traction Assist System is turned off, either by

pressing the TAS on/off button or turning off the automatic engagement feature of the TAS.

D The transmission is in FIRST (1); TAS will not

operate in this gear. This is normal.

D The vehicle is driven on a severely rough road.

When the vehicle leaves the rough surface, slows down or stops, the light will go off and TAS will be on again. This is normal.

D A Traction Assist System problem has been detected

and the vehicle needs service.

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See “Traction Off Light” in the Index. The Traction Assist System, as delivered from the factory, will automatically come on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the TAS off if you ever need to. (You should turn the TAS off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow. See “Rocking Your Vehicle” in the Index.)

To turn the system on or off press the TAS on/off button located to the left of the steering wheel on the instrument panel.

If you used the button to turn the system off, the TRACTION OFF light will come on and stay on. You can turn the system back on at any time by pressing the button again. The TRACTION OFF light should go off.

If desired, you can change the TAS automatic engagement feature so that the system will not come on automatically when the engine is started. To do so: 1. Park vehicle with ignition off and transmission

in PARK (P).

2. Turn the ignition to RUN; do not start the engine. 3. Apply the brake pedal, press the accelerator pedal to

the floor and then press the TAS on/off button and hold it down for at least six seconds.

4. Release the TAS button and both pedals. 5. Turn off the ignition and wait a few seconds. The next time you start your vehicle, the TAS will not automatically come on. You can restore the automatic feature by using the same procedure. Whether the TAS is set to come on automatically or not, you can always turn the system on or off by pressing the TAS on/off button.

Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.

Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.

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Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems -- steering and acceleration -- have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. Refer to “Traction Assist System” in the Index. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking -- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action -- steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. (See “Braking in Emergencies” earlier in this section.) It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

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Off-Road Recovery You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.

An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

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Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: D “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and

to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. D Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines.

If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.

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D Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.

D When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,

start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.

D If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

D Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that if your right outside mirror is convex, the vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)

D Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time

on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.

D Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.

Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. D If you’re being passed, make it easy for the

following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.

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A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If you have the “Traction Assist System,” remember: It helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If you do not have this system, or if the system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding.

Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid. Off-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel drive. Also, see “Anti-Lock Brakes” in the Index. If your vehicle doesn’t have four-wheel drive, you shouldn’t drive off-road unless you’re on a level, solid surface. Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. “Off-roading” means you’ve left the great North American road system behind. Traffic lanes aren’t marked. Curves aren’t banked. There are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill. In short, you’ve gone right back to nature.

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Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that’s why it’s very important that you read this guide. You’ll find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable. If you think you will need some more ground clearance at the front of your vehicle, you can easily remove the front bumper lower air dam.

The front bumper lower air dam is held in place by a series of push pins located around the lower edge of the front bumper. The push-pins are accessible from underneath the front bumper.

The following steps must be performed on each of the push-pins to remove the air dam:

1. Insert the blade portion

of a flat-blade screwdriver into the push-pin slot and pull downward until the push-pin snaps loose.

2. While continuing to pull downward on the push-pin, squeeze and rotate the expandable end of the push-pin with a pair of pliers until it releases from the retainer.

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To replace the lower air dam:

1. Line up each push-pin

with its intended retainer and push the washer portion of the push-pin towards the retainer until it locks into place

2. Push the flat end of the

push-pin towards the retainer until it locks into place, making sure each is secure.

3. Pull the push-pins and lower air dam assembly away from the retainers until the lower air dam is free.

When you’re back on roads, though, be sure to replace the air dam.

NOTICE:

Operating your vehicle for extended periods without the front bumper lower air dam installed can cause improper air flow to the engine and may allow things like fog lamps or tow hooks on the front of your vehicle to be damaged. Always be sure to replace the front bumper air dam when you’re finished off-road driving.

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Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Check to make sure all underbody shields (if so equipped) are properly attached. Be sure you read all the information about your four-wheel-drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you’ll be driving? If you don’t know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission. Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle. D The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.

D Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on

the off-road terrain doesn’t toss things around.

CAUTION:

D Cargo on the load floor piled higher than the

seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.

D Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be

tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.

D Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.

You’ll find other important information in this manual. See “Vehicle Loading,” “Luggage Carrier” and “Tires” in the Index.

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Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. GM recognizes these concerns and urges every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment: D Always use established trails, roads and areas that

have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving; obey all posted regulations.

D Avoid any driving practice that could damage

the environment -- shrubs, flowers, trees, grasses -- or disturb wildlife (this includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground).

D Always carry a litter bag . . . make sure all refuse

is removed from any campsite before leaving.

D Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted),

camp stoves and lanterns.

D Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other

combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.

Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly. Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to use it properly. Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different driving skills. Here’s what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet and body, you’ll need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.

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Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds: D you approach things faster and you have less time

to scan the terrain for obstacles.

D you have less time to react. D you have more vehicle bounce when you drive

over obstacles.

D you’ll need more distance for braking, especially

since you’re on an unpaved surface.

CAUTION:

When you’re driving off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you’re driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider. Surface Conditions. Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction and longer braking distances. Surface Obstacles. Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider: D Is the path ahead clear? D Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? D Does the travel take you uphill or downhill?

(There’s more discussion of these subjects later.)

D Will you have to stop suddenly or change

direction quickly?

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When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you’re not prepared. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what isn’t. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious -- or even fatal -- accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. See “Drunken Driving” in the Index.

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Driving on Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and can’t do. There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

CAUTION:

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you can’t control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, don’t drive the hill.

Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it’s one of those hills that’s just too steep to climb, descend or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top.

On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill. D Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get

sharply steeper in places?

D Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the

surface cause tire slipping?

D Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you

won’t have to make turning maneuvers?

D Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your

path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?

D What’s beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an

embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you don’t know. It’s the smart way to find out.

D Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have

ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps. D Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the

steering wheel.

D Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain your speed. Don’t use more power than you need, because you don’t want your wheels to start spinning or sliding.

D Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible.

If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

CAUTION:

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

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D Ease up on your speed as you approach the top

of the hill.

D Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible

to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

D Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to

let opposing traffic know you’re there.

D Use your headlamps even during the day. They make

you more visible to oncoming traffic.

CAUTION:

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

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Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about

to stall, and I can’t make it up the hill?

A: If this happens, there are some things you should do,

and there are some things you must not do. First, here’s what you should do:

D Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from

rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.

D If your engine is still running, shift the transmission

to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).

D If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to

restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).

D As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill.

D Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into

NEUTRAL (N) to “rev-up” the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control.

Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

D Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall

when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down

the hill and decide I just can’t do it. What should I do?

A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in

PARK (P) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N) when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

CAUTION:

Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N) can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). This is because the NEUTRAL (N) position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P). But do not shift the transfer case to the NEUTRAL (N) position. Leave the transfer case in the 2 Wheel High, 4 High or 4 Low position.

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Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to consider a number of things: D How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain

vehicle control?

D What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery?

Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

D Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts?

Logs? Boulders?

D What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden

creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks? If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

CAUTION:

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

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Q: Are there some things I should not do when

driving down a hill?

A: Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose control and have a serious accident.

D When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down.

D Never go downhill with the transmission in

NEUTRAL (N). This is called “free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill? A: It’s much more likely to happen going uphill.

But if it happens going downhill, here’s what to do.

D Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.

Apply the parking brake.

D Shift to PARK (P) and, while still braking, restart

the engine.

D Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,

and drive straight down.

D If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.

Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider: D A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

D Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over.

D Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the

incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.

For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

CAUTION:

Driving across an incline that’s too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, don’t drive across it. Find another route instead.

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Q: What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do?

A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

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CAUTION:

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances. It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud -- the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck. When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction. Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

CAUTION:

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

Driving in Water Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or exhaust pipe, don’t try it -- you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts.

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After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

CAUTION:

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing water.

See “Driving Through Water” in the Index for more information on driving through water.

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Driving at Night

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

Here are some tips on night driving. D Drive defensively. D Don’t drink and drive. D Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the

glare from headlamps behind you.

D Since you can’t see as well, you may need to

slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.

D Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your

headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.

D In remote areas, watch for animals. D If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place

and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

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You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.

The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.

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Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water

NOTICE:

If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

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Driving Through Flowing Water

CAUTION:

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and the other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips D Turn on your low-beam headlamps -- not just your parking lamps -- to help make you more visible to others.

D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

D Have good tires with proper tread depth.

(See “Tires” in the Index.)

City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: D Know the best way to get to where you are

going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)

D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.

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The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot.

Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.

Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in.

Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip: D Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?

Are all windows clean inside and outside?

D Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? D Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked

all levels?

D Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? D Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,

trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

D Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?

D Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a

comfortably cool interior.

D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently.

D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest,

service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See “Off-Road Driving” in the Index for information about driving off-road.) D Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid

levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

D Know how to go down hills. The most important

thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

CAUTION:

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

D Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. D Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane

roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving: D Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

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Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index. D Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.

If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

D Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that

you’ve been stopped by the snow.