2011 Chevrolet Suburban Owners Manual

a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking. Do not drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

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Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a global tragedy. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: judgment, muscular coordination, vision, and attentiveness. Police records show that almost 40 percent of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 17,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with about 250,000 people injured. For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological, and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive.

Medical research shows that alcohol in a person's system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person's chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

Control of a Vehicle The following three systems help to control the vehicle while driving — brakes, steering, and accelerator. At times, as when driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. Meaning, you can lose control of the vehicle. See StabiliTrak® System on page 9‑52. Adding non‐dealer accessories can affect vehicle performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 10‑3.

Driving and Operating

9-3

Braking See Brake System Warning Light on page 5‑23. Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. Deciding to push the brake pedal is perception time. Actually doing it is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three‐fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three‐fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 100 km/h (60 mph) travels 20 m (66 ft). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between the vehicle and others is important.

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9-4

Driving and Operating

And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied. Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much faster with a lot of heavy braking. Keeping pace with the traffic and allowing realistic following distances eliminates a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If the engine ever stops while the vehicle is being driven, brake normally but do not pump the

brakes. If the brakes are pumped, the pedal could get harder to push down. If the engine stops, there will still be some power brake assist but it will be used when the brake is applied. Once the power assist is used up, it can take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Adding non‐dealer accessories can affect vehicle performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 10‑3.

Steering

Power Steering If the vehicle is a hybrid, see the hybrid supplement for more information. If power steering assist is lost because the engine stops or the power steering system is not functioning, the vehicle can be steered but it will take more effort.

Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. Traction in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and vehicle speed. While in a curve, speed is the one factor that can be controlled. If there is a need to reduce speed, do it before entering the curve, while the front wheels are straight. Try to adjust the speed so you can drive through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from

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between parked cars and stops right in front of you. These problems can be avoided by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot stop in time because there is no room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. The vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First, apply the brakes. See Braking on page 9‑3. It is better to remove as much speed as possible from a collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

Driving and Operating

9-5

Off-Road Recovery The vehicle's right wheels can drop off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while driving.

An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o'clock positions, it can be turned a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that the vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. Turn the steering wheel 8 to 13 cm (3 to 5 in), about one-eighth turn, until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

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9-6

Driving and Operating

Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to the vehicle's three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes

tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. If the vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, the vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance is longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You might not realize the surface is slippery

until the vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Antilock brakes help avoid only the braking skid.

Off-Road Driving Vehicles with four-wheel drive can be used for off-road driving. Vehicles without four-wheel drive and vehicles with 20‐inch tire/wheel assemblies should not be driven off-road except on a level, solid surface. The airbag system is designed to work properly under a wide range of conditions, including off‐road usage. Always wear your safety belt and observe safe driving speeds, especially on rough terrain. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road and this is certainly true for off-road driving.

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At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious — or even fatal — accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Off-roading can be great fun but has some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. When off-road driving, traffic lanes are not marked, curves are not banked, and there are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill, or downhill. Avoid sharp turns and abrupt maneuvers. Failure to operate the vehicle correctly off‐road could result in loss of vehicle control or vehicle rollover. Off-roading involves some new skills. That is why it is very important that you read these driving tips and suggestions to help make off-road driving safer and more enjoyable.

Before You Go Off-Roading . Have all necessary maintenance

and service work done.

. Make sure there is enough fuel, that fluid levels are where they should be, and that the spare tire, if the vehicle has one, is fully inflated.

. Be sure to read all the

information about four-wheel-drive vehicles in this manual.

. Make sure all underbody

shields, if the vehicle has them, are properly attached.

. Know the local laws that apply to

off-roading where you will be driving or check with law enforcement people in the area.

. Be sure to get the necessary

permission if you will be on private land.

Driving and Operating

9-7

If you think you will need some more ground clearance at the front of your vehicle, you can remove the front fascia lower air dam. The air dam is held in place by two bolts and 10 snaps accessible from underneath the front fascia. To remove the air dam: 1. Remove the two outboard air

dam bolts.

2. With a flat‐blade tool, disengage

the snaps.

3. After the bolts are removed and the snaps are disengaged, push forward on the air dam until it is free.

Notice: Operating your vehicle for extended periods without the front fascia lower air dam installed can cause improper air flow to the engine. Always be sure to replace the front fascia air dam when you are finished off-road driving.

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9-8

Driving and Operating

After off-roading, be sure to reinstall the air dam: 1. Line up the snaps and push the air dam rearward to engage the snaps. Install the two outboard bolts.

2. Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving

{ WARNING

. Cargo on the load floor piled

higher than the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.

. Unsecured cargo on the load

floor can be tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.

(Continued)

WARNING (Continued)

. Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle's center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.

There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.

The heaviest things should be on the floor, forward of the rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.

. Be sure the load is properly

secured, so things are not tossed around.

You will find other important information under Vehicle Load Limits on page 9‑22 and Tires on page 10‑46. Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment: . Always use established trails,

roads, and areas that have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving and obey all posted regulations.

. Avoid any driving practice that could damage shrubs, flowers, trees, or grasses or disturb wildlife. This includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees, or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground.

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. Always carry a litter bag and

make sure all refuse is removed from any campsite before leaving. Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted), camp stoves, and lanterns.

. Never park your vehicle over

dry grass or other combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle's exhaust system.

Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Check to see if there are any blocked or closed roads. It is also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle in case something happens to one of them.

For vehicles with a winch, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck but you will want to know how to use it properly. Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It is a good idea to practice in an area that is safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-roading requires some new and different skills. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. Use your arms, hands, feet, and body to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.

Driving and Operating

9-9

Controlling the vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control the vehicle is to control the speed. At higher speeds: . You approach things faster and

have less time to react. There is less time to scan the terrain for obstacles. The vehicle has more bounce when driving over obstacles.

. More braking distance is needed, especially on an unpaved surface.

{ WARNING

When you are driving off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you are driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

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9-10

Driving and Operating

Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. Be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Surface Conditions: Off-roading surfaces can be hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow, or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the vehicle's steering, acceleration, and braking in different ways. Depending on the surface, slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances can occur. Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you are not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow, or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself.

Some things to consider:

Is the path ahead clear?

. Will the surface texture change

abruptly up ahead?

. Does the travel take you uphill or

downhill?

. Will you have to stop suddenly

or change direction quickly? When driving over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands. When driving over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, the wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you cannot control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking.

Off-roading requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits, or signal lights. Use good judgment about what is safe and what is not. Driving on Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what the vehicle can and cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

{ WARNING

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you cannot control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could (Continued)

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WARNING (Continued)

be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, do not drive the hill.

Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, decide if it is too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you might not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs.

Driving and Operating

9-11

Consider this as you approach a hill:

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping? Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you will not have to make turning maneuvers?

. Are there obstructions on the hill

that can block your path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts? . What is beyond the hill? Is there

a cliff, an embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

Driving Uphill Once you decide it is safe to drive up the hill: . Use a low gear and get a firm

grip on the steering wheel.

. Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain speed. Not using more power than needed can avoid spinning the wheels or sliding.

{ WARNING

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

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9-12

Driving and Operating

. Ease up on the speed as you

approach the top of the hill.

. Attach a flag to the vehicle to be

more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

. Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to let opposing traffic know you are there.

. Use headlamps even during the

day to make the vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.

{ WARNING

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

If the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot make it up the hill: . Push the brake pedal to stop the

vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards and apply the parking brake. If the engine is still running, shift the transmission to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in R (Reverse). If the engine has stopped running, you need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to P (Park) and restart the engine. Then, shift to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in R (Reverse).

. While backing down the hill, put

your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o'clock position so you can tell if the wheels are straight and can maneuver as you back down. It is best to back down the hill with the wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

Things not to do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, when going up a hill: . Never attempt to prevent a stall

by shifting into N (Neutral) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. The vehicle can roll backward very quickly and could go out of control.

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. Never try to turn around if about

to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall the vehicle, it is steep enough to cause it to roll over. If you cannot make it up the hill, back straight down the hill.

If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake, put your transmission in P (Park), and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. If the vehicle has a transfer case with a N (Neutral) position, do not shift the transfer case to Neutral when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

{ WARNING

If the vehicle has the two‐speed automatic transfer case, shifting the transfer case to Neutral can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). This is because the Neutral position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to P (Park). But, if the vehicle has a two‐speed automatic transfer case, do not shift the transfer case to Neutral.

Driving and Operating

9-13

Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, consider: . How steep is the downhill? Will I

be able to maintain vehicle control?

. What is the surface like?

Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

. Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders?

. What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, try to keep the vehicle headed straight down. Use a low gear so engine drag can help the brakes so they do not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping the vehicle under control at all times.

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9-14

Driving and Operating

{ WARNING

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

Things not to do when driving down a hill: . When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down might be too steep to drive across. The vehicle could roll over.

. Never go downhill with the transmission in N (Neutral), called free-wheeling. The brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

Vehicles are much more likely to stall when going uphill, but if it happens when going downhill: 1. Stop the vehicle by applying the

regular brakes and apply the parking brake.

2. Shift to P (Park) and, while still

braking, restart the engine.

3. Shift back to a low gear, release

the parking brake, and drive straight down. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.

4.

Driving Across an Incline An off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. To decide whether to try to drive across the incline, consider the following:

{ WARNING

Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.

. A hill that can be driven straight

up or down might be too steep to drive across. When going straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to

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Driving and Operating

9-15

the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when driving across an incline, the narrower track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — might not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels which could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

. Surface conditions can be a

problem. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause the tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over.

. Hidden obstacles can make the

steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, the vehicle can tilt even more.

For these reasons, carefully consider whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. If you feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. The best way to prevent this is to “walk the course” first, so you know what the surface is like before driving it.

Stalling on an Incline { WARNING

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

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9-16

Driving and Operating

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do not get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick, turning is more difficult, and braking distances are longer. It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck. When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause it to slide out of control.

{ WARNING

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

Driving in Water

{ WARNING

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.

Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before driving through it. Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get through. Deep water can damage the axle and other vehicle parts.

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Driving and Operating

9-17

WARNING (Continued)

After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause the vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When going through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it might take longer to stop. See Driving on Wet Roads on page 9‑17. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.

The vehicle requires more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

Driving on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep‐standing or flowing water.

{ WARNING

Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle.

(Continued)

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9-18

Driving and Operating

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under the vehicle's tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When the vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: . Allow extra following distance. . Pass with caution. . Keep windshield wiping

equipment in good shape.

. Keep the windshield washer

fluid reservoir filled.

. Have good tires with proper

tread depth. See Tires on page 10‑46. Turn off cruise control.

Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park the vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: . Keep the vehicle well ventilated. . Keep interior temperature cool. . Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead and to the sides.

. Check the rearview mirror and

vehicle instruments often.

Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: . Keep the vehicle serviced and in

good shape.

. Check all fluid levels and brakes,

tires, cooling system, and transmission.

. Shift to a lower gear when going

down steep or long hills. { WARNING

If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.

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{ WARNING

Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.

. Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).

. Pay attention to special road

signs (falling rocks area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.

Winter Driving

Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 0°C (32°F) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction.

Driving and Operating

9-19

Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 9‑50 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control on slippery surfaces.

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Driving and Operating

Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Assistance Program (U.S. and Canada) on page 13‑7 or Roadside Assistance Program (Mexico) on page 13‑9. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:

Turn on the hazard warning flashers. Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.

{ WARNING

Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains Carbon Monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death.

WARNING (Continued)

WARNING (Continued)

If the vehicle is stuck in the snow: . Clear away snow from around

the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe.

. Check again from time to

time to be sure snow does not collect there.

. Open a window about 5 cm

(2 in) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air.

. Fully open the air outlets on

or under the instrument panel.

. Adjust the climate control

system to a setting that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.

For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 9‑35. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (Carbon Monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust.

Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful. To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat. Repeat this

(Continued)

(Continued)

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Driving and Operating

9-21

until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel.

If the Vehicle is Stuck Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle's traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.

{ WARNING

If the vehicle's tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 55 km/h (35 mph).

For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 10‑66. Rocking the Vehicle to Get it Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive vehicles, shift into Four‐Wheel High or, if the vehicle has a two‐speed automatic transfer case, Four‐Wheel Low. For vehicles with StabiliTrak®,

turn the traction control part of the system off. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. Recovery hooks can be used, if the vehicle has them. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing the Vehicle on page 10‑87.

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Driving and Operating

Recovery Hooks

{ WARNING

These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.

{ WARNING

Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). This can cause systems to break and change the way the vehicle handles. This could cause loss of control and a crash. Overloading can also shorten the life of the vehicle.

Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. For vehicles with recovery hooks at the front of the vehicle, you can use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

Vehicle Load Limits It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the

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Tire and Loading Information Label

Label Example

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows

Driving and Operating

9-23

Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The

combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle's placard.

2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.

3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.

the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 10‑46 and Tire Pressure on page 10‑53. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section.

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9-24

Driving and Operating

6.

If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. SeeTrailer Towing on page 9‑77 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.

4. The resulting figure equals

the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750
(5 x 150) = 650 lbs).

5. Determine the combined

weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.

Example 1

A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for

Example 1 = 453 kg (1,000 lbs)

B. Subtract Occupant Weight @

68 kg (150 lbs) × 2 = 136 kg (300 lbs)

C. Available Occupant and Cargo

Weight = 317 kg (700 lbs)

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Driving and Operating

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The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle's capacity weight.

Certification/Tire Label

Example 2

Example 3

A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for

Example 2 = 453 kg (1,000 lbs)

A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for

Example 3 = 453 kg (1,000 lbs)

B. Subtract Occupant Weight @

B. Subtract Occupant Weight @

68 kg (150 lbs) × 5 = 136 kg (750 lbs)

91 kg (200 lbs) × 5 = 453 kg (1,000 lbs)

C. Available Cargo Weight =

C. Available Cargo Weight =

113 kg (250 lbs)

0 kg (0 lbs)

Refer to your vehicle's tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle's capacity weight and seating positions.

A vehicle specific Certification/ Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver door. The label shows the size of your vehicle's original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called

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Driving and Operating

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. The Certification/Tire label also contains information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

{ WARNING

Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). This can cause systems to break and change the way the vehicle handles. This could cause loss of control and a crash. Overloading can also shorten the life of the vehicle.

Notice : Overloading the vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Do not overload the vehicle. The label will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry.

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

{ WARNING

Things you put inside the vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

. Put things in the cargo

area of the vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

(Continued)

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Driving and Operating

9-27

Starting and Operating

New Vehicle Break-In Notice: The vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines: . Keep the vehicle speed at

88 km/h (55 mph) or less for the first 805 km (500 miles).

. Do not drive at any one constant speed, fast or slow, for the first 805 km (500 miles). Do not make full-throttle starts. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle.

. Avoid making hard stops for the first 322 km (200 miles) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not yet broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings.

. Do not tow a trailer during

break-in. See Trailer Towing on page 9‑77 for the trailer towing capabilities of the vehicle and more information.

Following break‐in, engine speed and load can be gradually increased.

WARNING (Continued)

. Never stack heavier

things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

. Do not leave an

unsecured child restraint in the vehicle.

. When you carry something

inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

. Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to.

There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving on page 9‑6.

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Driving and Operating

Adjustable Throttle and Brake Pedal On vehicles with this feature, you can change the position of the throttle and brake pedals. No adjustment to the pedals can be made when the vehicle is in R (Reverse) or while using cruise control.

Before you start driving, fully press the brake pedal to confirm the adjustment is right for you. While driving, make only small adjustments. The vehicle may have a memory function which lets pedal settings be saved and recalled. See Power Seat Adjustment on page 3‑4 for more information.

Ignition Positions

The control used to adjust the pedals is located on the instrument panel below the climate control system. Press the bottom of the control to move the pedals closer. Press the top of the control to move the pedals away.

The ignition switch has four different positions.

To shift out of P (Park), the ignition must be in ON/RUN or ACC/ ACCESSORY and the regular brake pedal must be applied. A (STOPPING THE ENGINE/ LOCK/OFF): When the vehicle is stopped, turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF to turn the engine off. Retained Accessory Power (RAP) will remain active. See Retained Accessory Power (RAP) on page 9‑32. This position locks the ignition. It also locks the transmission on automatic transmission vehicles. The key can be removed in LOCK/OFF. Do not turn the engine off when the vehicle is moving. This will cause a loss of power assist in the brake and steering systems and disable the airbags.

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In an emergency: 1. Brake using a firm and steady

pressure. Do not pump the brakes repeatedly. This may deplete power assist, requiring increased brake pedal force.

2. Shift the vehicle to neutral. This can be done while the vehicle is moving. After shifting to neutral, firmly apply the brakes and steer the vehicle to a safe location.

3. Come to a complete stop, shift to P (Park), and turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, the shift lever must be in P (Park) to turn the ignition switch to the LOCK/OFF position.

4. Set the parking brake. See

Parking Brake on page 9‑51.

The steering can bind with the wheels turned off center. If this happens, move the steering wheel from right to left while turning the

key to ACC/ACCESSORY. If this doesn't work, then the vehicle needs service. Notice: Using a tool to force the key to turn in the ignition could cause damage to the switch or break the key. Use the correct key, make sure it is all the way in, and turn it only with your hand. If the key cannot be turned by hand, see your dealer. B (ACC/ACCESSORY): This position lets things like the radio and the windshield wipers operate while the engine is off. Use this position if the vehicle must be pushed or towed. C (ON/RUN): This position can be used to operate the electrical accessories and to display some instrument panel cluster warning and indicator lights. The switch stays in this position when the engine is running. The transmission is also unlocked in this position on automatic transmission vehicles.

Driving and Operating

9-29

If you leave the key in the ACC/ ACCESSORY or ON/RUN position with the engine off, the battery could be drained. You may not be able to start the vehicle if the battery is allowed to drain for an extended period of time. D (START): This is the position that starts the engine. When the engine starts, release the key. The ignition switch returns to ON/RUN for driving. A warning tone will sound when the driver door is opened and the ignition is in ACC/ACCESSORY or LOCK/OFF, and the key is in the ignition.

Starting the Engine If the vehicle is a hybrid, see the hybrid supplement for more information. Move the shift lever to P (Park) or N (Neutral). The engine will not start in any other position. To restart the engine when the vehicle is already moving, use N (Neutral) only.

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Driving and Operating

Notice: Do not try to shift to P (Park) if the vehicle is moving. If you do, you could damage the transmission. Shift to P (Park) only when the vehicle is stopped. Starting Procedure 1. With your foot off the accelerator pedal, turn the ignition to START. When the engine starts, let go of the key. The idle speed will go down as the engine warms. Do not race the engine immediately after starting it. Operate the engine and transmission gently to allow the oil to warm up and lubricate all moving parts. The vehicle has a Computer-Controlled Cranking System. This feature assists in starting the engine and protects components. If the ignition key is turned to the START position, and then released when the engine begins cranking, the engine will continue cranking for a few seconds or until the vehicle starts. If the engine does

not start and the key is held in START, cranking will be stopped after 15 seconds to prevent cranking motor damage. To prevent gear damage, this system also prevents cranking if the engine is already running. Engine cranking can be stopped by turning the ignition switch to the ACC/ACCESSORY or LOCK/OFF position. When the Low Fuel warning lamp is on and the FUEL LEVEL LOW message is displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC), the Computer‐Controlled Cranking System is disabled to prevent possible vehicle component damage. When this happens, hold the ignition switch in the START position to continue engine cranking.

Notice: Cranking the engine for long periods of time, by returning the key to the START position immediately after cranking has ended, can overheat and damage

the cranking motor, and drain the battery. Wait at least 15 seconds between each try, to let the cranking motor cool down. 2.

If the engine does not start after 5‐10 seconds, especially in very cold weather (below −18°C or 0°F), it could be flooded with too much gasoline. Try pushing the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and holding it there as you hold the key in START for up to a maximum of 15 seconds. Wait at least 15 seconds between each try, to allow the cranking motor to cool down. When the engine starts, let go of the key and accelerator. If the vehicle starts briefly but then stops again, repeat these steps. This clears the extra gasoline from the engine. Do not race the engine immediately after starting it. Operate the engine and transmission gently until the oil warms up and lubricates all moving parts.

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Driving and Operating

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WARNING (Continued)

If the cord will not reach, use a heavy-duty three-prong extension cord rated for at least 15 amps.

4. Before starting the engine, be

sure to unplug and store the cord as it was before to keep it away from moving engine parts. If you do not, it could be damaged.

The length of time the heater should remain plugged in depends on several factors. Ask a dealer in the area where you will be parking the vehicle for the best advice on this.

Notice: The engine is designed to work with the electronics in the vehicle. If you add electrical parts or accessories, you could change the way the engine operates. Before adding electrical equipment, check with your dealer. If you do not, the engine might not perform properly. Any resulting damage would not be covered by the vehicle warranty.

Engine Heater The engine coolant heater can provide easier starting and better fuel economy during engine warm-up in cold weather conditions at or below −18°C (0°F). Vehicles with an engine heater should be plugged in at least four hours before starting. An internal thermostat in the plug-end of the cord may exist which will prevent engine coolant heater operation at temperatures above −18°C (0°F).

To Use the Engine Coolant Heater 1. Turn off the engine. 2. Open the hood and unwrap the

electrical cord. The cord is secured to the Engine Compartment Fuse Block with a clip. Carefully remove the wire tie which secures the electrical cord. Do not cut the electrical cord.

3. Plug the cord into a normal, grounded 110-volt AC outlet.

{ WARNING Plugging the cord into an ungrounded outlet could cause an electrical shock. Also, the wrong kind of extension cord could overheat and cause a fire. You could be seriously injured. Plug the cord into a properly grounded three-prong 110-volt AC outlet.

(Continued)

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9-32

Driving and Operating

Retained Accessory Power (RAP) The following vehicle accessories can be used for up to 10 minutes after the engine is turned off: . Audio System . Power Windows . OnStar System (if equipped) . Sunroof (if equipped) These features work when the key is in ON/RUN or ACC/ ACCESSORY. Once the key is turned from ON/RUN to LOCK/OFF, the windows and sunroof continue to work up to 10 minutes until any door is opened. The radio continues to work for up to 10 minutes or until the driver door is opened.

Shifting Into Park { WARNING

It can be dangerous to get out of the vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in P (Park) with the parking brake firmly set. The vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure the vehicle will not move, even when you are on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. If you have a four-wheel drive transfer case with a N (Neutral) position, and the transfer case is in N (Neutral), the vehicle will be free to roll, even if the shift lever is in P (Park). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in

(Continued)

WARNING (Continued)

N (Neutral). If you are pulling a trailer, see Driving Characteristics and Towing Tips on page 9‑73. Always set the parking brake.

1. Hold the brake pedal down, then

set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on page 9‑51
for more information.

2. Move the shift lever into the

P (Park) position by pulling the shift lever toward you and moving it up as far as it will go. 3. Be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in N (Neutral).

4. Turn the ignition key to

LOCK/OFF.

5. Remove the key and take it with you. If you can leave the vehicle with the ignition key in your hand, the vehicle is in P (Park).

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Driving and Operating

9-33

If you have to leave the vehicle with the engine running, be sure your vehicle is in P (Park) and the parking brake is firmly set before you leave it. After you move the shift lever into P (Park), hold the regular brake pedal down. Then, see if you can move the shift lever away from P (Park) without first pulling it toward you. If you can, it means that the