2008 Chevrolet Suburban Owners Manual

cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use

These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

(cid:129) Oils meeting these

requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M

Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.

(cid:129) SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.

Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures.

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Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection.

Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-65. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service

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people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message coming on, reset the system. Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Engine Oil Life System: 1. Display the OIL LIFE REMAINING on the DIC. If your vehicle does not have DIC buttons, the vehicle must be in PARK (P) to access this display. See DIC Operation and Displays (With DIC Buttons) on page 3-56 or DIC Operation and Displays (Without DIC Buttons) on page 3-62.

2. Press and hold the SET/RESET button on the DIC, or the trip odometer reset stem if your vehicle does not have DIC buttons, for more than five seconds. The oil life will change to 100%.

If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the Engine Oil Life System has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter and the air filter restriction indicator, if the vehicle has one.

When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter If your vehicle has an air filter restriction indicator, it lets you know when the engine air cleaner/filter needs to be replaced. On vehicles with a restriction indicator, you should inspect the air filter restriction indicator at every oil change and replace the engine air cleaner/filter when the indicator tells you to. On vehicles without an air filter restriction indicator, inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.

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How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Vehicles With an Air Filter Restriction Indicator Locate the air filter restriction indicator on the engine air cleaner/filter cover. When the indicator turns black or is in the red/orange “change” zone, replace the filter and reset the indicator. See the steps following to replace the engine air cleaner/filter and to reset the air filter restriction indicator. Vehicles Without an Air Filter Restriction Indicator To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the engine air cleaner/filter from the vehicle by following Steps 1
through 6. When you have the engine air cleaner/filter removed, lightly shake it to release loose dust and dirt. If the engine air cleaner/filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.

Replacing the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator

1. Locate the air

cleaner/filter assembly. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14.

2. Loosen the four screws on the cover of the housing

and lift up the cover.

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{CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

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3. Remove the engine air cleaner/filter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.

4. Clean the engine air cleaner/filter sealing surfaces

and the housing.

5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 6. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. 7. Reset the air filter restriction indicator, if the vehicle has one, by pressing the top button on the indicator.

Automatic Transmission Fluid (4-Speed Transmission) When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:129) At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

(cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

(cid:129) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine

running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The transmission dipstick handle with this graphic is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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Consistency of Readings Always check the fluid level at least twice using the procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper fluid level. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer/retailer. How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Using a funnel, add fluid down the transmission dipstick tube only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.

Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. (cid:129) After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.

(cid:129) When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Automatic Transmission Fluid (6-Speed Transmission) When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid It is usually not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. The only reason for fluid loss is a transmission leak or overheating the transmission. If you suspect a small leak, then use the following checking procedures to check the fluid level. However, if there is a large leak, then it may be necessary to have the vehicle towed to a dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired before driving the vehicle further.

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Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in the Maintenance Schedule. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Before checking the fluid level, prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Start the engine and park your vehicle on a level

surface. Keep the engine running.

2. Apply the parking brake and place the shift lever in

PARK (P).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, move the shift lever back to PARK (P).

4. Allow the engine to idle (500 – 800 rpm) for at least

one minute. Slowly release the brake pedal.

5. Keep the engine running and press the Trip/Fuel

button or trip odometer reset stem until TRANS TEMP (Transmission Temperature) displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC).

6. Using the TRANS TEMP reading, determine and

perform the appropriate check procedure. If the TRANS TEMP reading is not within the required temperature ranges, allow the vehicle to cool, or operate the vehicle until the appropriate transmission fluid temperature is reached.

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Cold Check Procedure Use this procedure only as a reference to determine if the transmission has enough fluid to be operated safely until a hot check procedure can be made. The hot check procedure is the most accurate method to check the fluid level. Perform the hot check procedure at the first opportunity. Use this cold check procedure to check fluid level when the transmission temperature is between 80°F and 90°F (27°C and 32°C). 1. Locate the transmission dipstick at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger side of the vehicle.

The dipstick handle has this graphic. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information.

2. Flip the handle up, and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

3. Install the dipstick by pushing it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and then pull it back out again.

4. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading.

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5. If the fluid level is below the COLD check band, add only enough fluid as necessary to bring the level into the COLD band. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5L). Do not overfill.

6. Perform a hot check at the first opportunity after

the transmission reaches a normal operating temperature between 160°F to 200°F (71°C to 93°C).

7. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way, then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Hot Check Procedure Use this procedure to check the transmission fluid level when the transmission fluid temperature is between 160°F and 200°F (71°C and 93°C). The hot check is the most accurate method to check the fluid level. The hot check should be performed at the first opportunity in order to verify the cold check. The fluid level rises as fluid temperature increases, so it is important to ensure the transmission temperature is within range. 1. Locate the transmission dipstick at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger side of the vehicle.

The dipstick handle has this graphic. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information.

2. Flip the handle up, and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

3. Install the dipstick by pushing it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and then pull it back out again.

4. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading.

5. Safe operating level is within the HOT cross hatch band on the dipstick. If the fluid level is not within the HOT band, and the transmission temperature is between 160°F and 200°F (71°C and 93°C), add or drain fluid as necessary to bring the level into the HOT band. If the fluid level is low, add only enough fluid to bring the level into the HOT band. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5L). Do not overfill.

6. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way, then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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Consistency of Readings Always check the fluid level at least twice using the procedures described. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper fluid level. If fluid is added, it may take 15 minutes or longer to obtain an accurate reading because of residual fluid draining down the dipstick tube. If inconsistent readings persist, check the transmission breather to be sure it is clean and not clogged. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer/retailer.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-31.

A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature.

Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

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(cid:129) What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

If you use an improper coolant mixture,

Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13 for more information.

If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives

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{CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark.

Checking Coolant

The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for more information on location.

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Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.

If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,

Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If your vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information. Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.

Engine Overheating There is a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-47. In addition, ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE, ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE, and a ENGINE POWER IS REDUCED message comes on in the Driver Information Center (DIC) on the instrument panel. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-65.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

Notice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine The ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message, along with a low coolant condition, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-49.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) If you get the ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If the vehicle has an air conditioner and it is on,

turn it off.

2. Turn on the heater to the highest temperature and at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary.

3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle immediately. If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle has an engine-driven cooling fan, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least five minutes while parked. If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle has an electric cooling fan, idle the engine for five minutes while parked.

If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You might decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the ENGINE POWER IS REDUCED message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-15.

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Cooling System If your vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information. When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

{CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If possible, the vehicle should be parked on a level surface. Check the coolant level after the system cools down. Some amount of coolant may be lost due to overheating.

5.3L Engine (4.8L and 6.0L Similar)

A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan(s)

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The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

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In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

1. You can remove the

coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.

Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

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3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture,

to the FULL COLD mark.

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

6. Verify coolant level after engine is shut off and the

coolant is cold. If necessary, repeat coolant fill procedure steps 1 through 6.

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Engine Fan Noise If your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan, when the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages. If your vehicle has electric cooling fans, you may hear the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is required. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, or if you are operating your air conditioning system, the fans may change to high speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and indicates that the cooling system is functioning properly. The fans will change to low speed when additional cooling is no longer required.

Power Steering Fluid If your vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

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How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on

the dipstick.

The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage your vehicle and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When windshield washer fluid needs to be added, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. Use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing.

5-40

Adding Washer Fluid Your vehicle has a low washer fluid message in the DIC that comes on when the washer fluid is low. The message is displayed for 15 seconds at the start of each ignition cycle. When the WASHER FLUID LOW ADD FLUID message displays, you will need to add washer fluid to the windshield washer fluid reservoir.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow

the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.

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(cid:129) Brakes Brake Fluid

The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake hydraulic system. If it is, you should have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.

5-42

It is not a good idea to top off the brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-45. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check the brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

Checking Brake Fluid The brake fluid can be checked without taking off the cap by looking at the brake fluid reservoir.

Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-110.

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(cid:129) Brake Wear Your vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 5-124. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear.

5-44

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery If your vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information. Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for battery location.

Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-46 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.

5-45

Jump Starting If your vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information. If your vehicle’s battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or

(cid:129) They contain enough electricity to

ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

5-46

Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put the automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear, not in NEUTRAL.

If you leave your radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all the lamps that are not needed. This avoids sparks and helps save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. If the vehicle has a remote positive (+) terminal, it is located under a red plastic cover at the positive battery post. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover.

The remote negative (−) terminal is a stud located on the right front of the engine, where the negative battery cable attaches. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for more information on the location of the remote positive (+) and remote negative (−) terminals.

5-47

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

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5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to

the remote negative (−) terminal, on the vehicle with the dead battery.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

5-49

If the jumper cables are connected or

Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the bad battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover, if the

vehicle has one, to its original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

5-50

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. All axle assemblies are filled by volume of fluid during production. They are not filled to reach a certain level. When checking the fluid level on any axle, variations in the readings can be caused by factory fill differences between the minimum and the maximum fluid volume. Also, if a vehicle has just been driven before checking the fluid level, it may appear lower than normal because fluid has traveled out along the axle tubes and has not drained back to the sump area. Therefore, a reading taken five minutes after the vehicle has been driven will appear to have a lower fluid level than a vehicle that has been stationary for an hour or two. Remember that the rear axle assembly must be supported to get a true reading.

How to Check Lubricant

1500 Series

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For all 6.0L 1500 Series applications, the proper level is from 0.6 inch to 1.6 inches (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. The proper fill level for the 2500 Series is from 0 to 1/2 inch (0 to 13 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located at the front of the axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.

Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case fluid unless you suspect there is a leak, or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.

2500 Series

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

For all 4.8L and 5.3L 1500 Series applications, the proper level is from 0.04 inch to 0.75 inch (1.0 mm to 19.0 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) How to Check Lubricant

Automatic Transfer Case

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug.

When to Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to change the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.

5-53

How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

1500 Series

A: Fill Plug B: Drain Plug

5-54

2500 Series

A: Fill Plug B: Drain Plug If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant: (cid:129) When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to

raise the level from 0 (0 mm) to 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) below the filler plug hole.

(cid:129) When the differential is at operating temperature

(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim of the headlamps have been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in a crash, the aim of the headlamps can be affected and adjustment can be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this can mean the vertical aim of your headlamps needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be adjusted. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described.

The vehicle should: (cid:129) Be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from

a light colored wall.

(cid:129) Have all four tires on a level surface which is level

all the way to the wall.

(cid:129) Be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall. (cid:129) Not have any snow, ice, or mud on it. (cid:129) Be fully assembled and all other work stopped while

headlamp aiming is being performed.

(cid:129) Be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver seat.

(cid:129) Have tires properly inflated. (cid:129) Have the spare tire is in its proper location in the

vehicle.

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Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. To adjust the vertical aim: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-12

for more information.

2. Locate the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam

headlamp.

3. Record the distance from the ground to the aim dot

on the low-beam headlamp.

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4. At a wall measure from the ground upward (A) to

the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.

5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall or flat surface the width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4.

Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the flat surface.

9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is

positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim.

10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite

headlamp.

7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a E8
Torx® socket.

8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam.

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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps If your vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information.

A. Taillamp/Stoplamp B. Back-up Lamp C. Turn Signal

Lamp/Taillamp

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-60. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

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4. Press the release tab, if bulb socket has one, and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp assembly.

5. Pull the old bulb straight out from the bulb socket. 6. Press a new bulb into the bulb socket and insert

it into the taillamp assembly. Turn the bulb socket clockwise into the taillamp assembly until it clicks. 7. Reinstall the taillamp assembly. When reinstalling,

make sure to line up the pins on the taillamp assembly with the vehicle. If this is not done the taillamp assembly cannot be correctly installed.

To replace one of these bulbs:

1. Open the liftgate. See Power Liftgate on page 2-15

for more information.

2. Remove the

two screws from the taillamp assembly.

3. Pull the taillamp assembly rearward until the inner pins on the taillamp assembly are disengaged from the vehicle.

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3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the

bulb straight out of the socket.

4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the license

plate lamp.

Replacement Bulbs If your vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information.

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

License Plate Lamp

Rear Turn Signal Lamp, Taillamp, and Stoplamp

168

3047

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.

License Plate Lamp

1. Remove the two screws holding each of the license plate lamps to the molding that is part of the liftgate.

2. Twist and pull the license plate lamp forward

through the molding opening.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. To replace the wiper blade assembly: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away from

the windshield.

3. Install the new blade onto the arm connector and make sure the grooved areas are fully set in the locked position.

For the proper type and size, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15.

2. Squeeze the grooved areas on each side of the

blade, and turn the blade assembly away from the arm connector.

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Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement 1. Lift the wiper blade assembly up and out of the park

rest position.

2. Pull the wiper blade assembly away from the backglass. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle.

3. Turn the wiper blade assembly, and pull it off of the wiper arm. Hold the wiper arm in position and push the blade away from the wiper arm.

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4. Replace the wiper blade. 5. Return the wiper blade assembly to the park rest

position.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:129) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.

(cid:129) Underinflated tires pose the same

danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-70.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:129) Overinflated tires are more likely to

be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.

20-Inch Tires If your vehicle has the optional 20-inch P275/55R20 size tires, they are classified as touring tires and are designed for on road use. The low-profile, wide tread design is not recommended for off-road driving. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-13, for additional information.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-80.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-70 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual configuration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-70 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.

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(D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (E) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-70
and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.

Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

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(A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the first two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-70.

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Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

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Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-70 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-77. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-80. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.

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A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the pressure of the spare tire. See Spare Tire on page 5-106 for additional information.

Inflation - Tire Pressure If your vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information. Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much flexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road hazards

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How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability.

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Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-73, for additional information.

Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation.

The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.

Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.

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Tire Pressure Monitor Operation If your vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information. The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.

When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster.

At the same time a message to check the pressure in a specific tire appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure.

Using the DIC, tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays (With DIC Buttons) on page 3-56 or DIC Operation and Displays (Without DIC Buttons) on page 3-62 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-65. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-70. Your vehicle’s TPMS can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-75 and Tires on page 5-63. Notice: Liquid tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. Sensor damage caused by using a tire sealant is not covered by your warranty. Do not use liquid tire sealants.

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TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: (cid:129) One of the road tires has been replaced with the spare tire. The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor. The TPMS sensor matching process was started but not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.

(cid:129) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/retailer for service.

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(cid:129) Replacement tires or wheels do not match your

vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-78.

(cid:129) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction.

If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on. TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you rotate your vehicle’s tires or replace one or more of the TPMS sensors, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. If increasing the tire’s air pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall.

(cid:129) To decrease air-pressure out of a tire you can use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key. You have two minutes to match the first tire/wheel position, and five minutes overall to match all four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer than two minutes, to match the first tire and wheel, or more than five minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions the matching process stops and you need to start over. The TPMS sensor matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the

engine off.

3. Press the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter’s

LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time for approximately five seconds. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode and TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays on the DIC screen.

4. Start with the driver side front tire. 5. Remove the valve cap from the valve cap stem.

Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for five seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds to sound, confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position.