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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.


(cid:127) (cid:127) {CAUTION:


Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can not see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.


Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.


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If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.


{CAUTION:


If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-81.


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Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI or 4LO. If your vehicle has the Traction Assist System, you should turn it off by pressing the TAS on/off button. If your vehicle has the Stabilitrak® System, turn the Stabilitrak® System off by pressing the Stabilitrak® button so that the STABILITY SYSTEM DISABLED and TRACTION OFF lights are illuminated on the instrument panel cluster. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-55.


Using the Recovery Hooks


Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.


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{CAUTION:


These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.


Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.


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Towing


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing, towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, and dolly towing, towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”.


With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing”, following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have


restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-45.


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(cid:127) Dinghy Towing


Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles (NR4 and NP8) Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on.


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3. Firmly set the parking brake. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the


tow vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in Park (P). You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.


5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28 for the proper procedure to select the NEUTRAL (N) position for your vehicle.


6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle


being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle. 7. Turn the ignition off and leave the steering column


unlocked.


Dolly Towing


Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed.


Two-wheel-drive vehicles can be towed on a dolly with the front wheels on the ground provided that the wheels are straight and the steering column has been locked. Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles If your vehicle is equipped with Stabilitrak® it is not designed to be dolly towed. If you need to tow your vehicle, see “Dinghy Towing” earlier in this section. If your vehicle is not equipped with Stabilitrak®, use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Drive the vehicle up onto the tow dolly. 2. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 3. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 4. Firmly set the parking brake. 5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the


tow dolly.


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{CAUTION:


Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in Park (P). You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.


6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See


Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28 for the proper procedure to select the NEUTRAL position for your vehicle.


7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle


being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle. 8. Turn the ignition off and lock the steering column.


Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


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Tire and Loading Information Label


A. Vehicle Capacity Weight The Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar, near the driver’s door latch. Vehicles without a center pillar will have the Tire and Loading Information label attached to the driver’s door edge.


This label lists the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight it can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight. The Tire and Loading Information label also tells you the size and recommended inflation pressure for the original equipment tires on your vehicle. For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-62
and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-71. If your vehicle does not have the Tire and Loading Information label, the Certification/Tire label shows the tire size and recommended inflation pressures needed to obtain the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section.


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Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX pounds” on your vehicle placard.


2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and


passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and


passengers from XXX kilograms or XXX pounds. 4. The resulting figure equals the available amount of


cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs. and there will be five 150 lb. passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs. (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs.).


5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from


your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-65 for more information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.


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Example 1


Loading Your Vehicle Description


Total


Item


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1= Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 =


C Available Occupant and


Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


Example 2


Loading Your Vehicle Description


Total


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) x 5 =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


750 lbs (340 kg)


Item


Example 3


Loading Your Vehicle Description


Total


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) x 5 =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


Item


C Available Cargo Weight =


250 lbs (113 kg)


C Available Cargo Weight =


0 lbs. (0 kg)


Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.


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The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. The Certification/Tire label also contains information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. See “Front Axle Reserve Capacity” later in this section. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.


Certification/Tire Label


The Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document in the cab.


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{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. The label will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If you put things inside your vehicle – like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else – they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:127) Put things in the cargo area of your


vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.


(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,


inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint


in your vehicle.


(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down unless


you need to.


There’s also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See ″Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving″ in the Index.


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Level Control Automatic Level Control The automatic level control rear suspension is available on C/K 1500 vehicles and comes as a part of the Autoride™ suspension, if equipped. This type of level control is fully automatic and will provide a better leveled riding position as well as better handling under a variety of passenger and loading conditions. An air compressor connected to the rear shocks will raise or lower the rear of the vehicle to maintain proper vehicle height. The system is activated when the ignition key is turned to RUN and will automatically adjust vehicle height thereafter. The system may exhaust (lower vehicle height) for up to ten minutes after the ignition key has been turned off. You may hear the air compressor operating when the height is being adjusted. If a self-equalizing hitch is being used, it is recommended to allow the shocks to inflate, thereby leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the hitch.


Autoride™ If equipped, the Autoride™ feature will provide a superior vehicle ride and handling under a variety of passenger and loading conditions. The system is fully automatic and uses a computer controller to continuously monitor vehicle speed, wheel to body position, lift/dive and steering position of the vehicle. The controller then sends signals to each shock absorber to independently adjust the damping level to provide the optimum vehicle ride. Autoride™ also interacts with the tow/haul switch that, when engaged, will provide additional control of the shock absorbers. This additional control results in better ride and handling characteristics when the vehicle is loaded or towing a trailer. See Tow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-54 for more information.


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Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) for your vehicle. CWR is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But you can figure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-65
Towing a Trailer.


Towing a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. To identify the vehicle trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section.


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If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in acceleration, braking, handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later


in this section.


(cid:127) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


(cid:127) You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). See “Tow/Haul Mode” later in this section.


Three important considerations have to do with weight:


The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The weight on your vehicle’s tires


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Tow/Haul Mode Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the Tow/Haul mode is to: (cid:127) Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.


(cid:127) Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.


Your vehicle may be equipped with a button at the end of the shift lever which, when pressed, enables tow/haul. Your vehicle may be equipped with Autoride™ ® which further improves your vehicle’s ride while towing. See Autoride™ on page 4-64 for more information. When the button is pressed, a light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that Tow/Haul has been selected. Tow/Haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off Tow/Haul every time it is started.


Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See Weight of the Trailer later in this section. Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: (cid:127) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy


load through rolling terrain.


(cid:127) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy


load in stop and go traffic.


(cid:127) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy


load in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.


Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.


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(cid:127) Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.


Use one of the following charts to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.


Vehicle* C-1500 (2WD)*


4800 V8


5300 V8


5300 V8
(Extended Models)


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR


3.42
3.73


3.42
3.73


3.73
4.10


5,700 lbs. (2 585 kg) 6,700 lbs. (3 039 kg)


6,700 lbs. (3 039 kg) 7,700 lbs. (3 492 kg)


7,400 lbs. (3 356 kg) 8,400 lbs. (3 810 kg)


11,000 lbs. (4 990 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg)


12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 897 kg)


13,000 lbs. (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs. (6 350 kg)


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Vehicle* K-1500 (4 WD)*


4800 V8


5300 V8


5300 V8
(Extended Models)


Vehicle* C-2500 (2WD)*


6000 V8
(Extended Models)**†


6000 V8 w/4WS**


8100 V8
(Extended Models)†


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR


3.73
4.10


3.73
4.10


3.73
4.10


6,400 lbs. (2 902 kg) 7,400 lbs. (3 356 kg)


7,500 lbs. (3 401 kg) 7,800 lbs. (3 538 kg)


7,200 lbs. (3 265 kg) 8,200 lbs. (3 719 kg)


12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 897 kg)


13,000 lbs. (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs. (6 350 kg)


13,000 lbs. (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs. (6 350 kg)


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR


3.73
4.10


3.73
4.10


3.73
4.10


7,900 lbs. (3 583 kg) 9,900 lbs. (4 490 kg)


7,600 lbs. (3447 kg) 9,600 lbs. (4354 kg)


10,500 lbs. (4 762 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg)


14,000 lbs. (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs. (7 257 kg)**


14,000 lbs. (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs. (7 257 kg)


17,000 lbs. (7 711 kg) 19,000 lbs. (8 618 kg)


**GCWR limited to 14,000 lbs. (6 356 kg) on extended models with Z83 suspension. †2500 extended models (2WD) equipped with Z83 suspension limited to 7,900 lbs. (3 583 kg) trailer.


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Vehicle* K-2500 (4WD)*


6000 V8
(Extended Models)**†


6000 V8 w/4WS


8100 V8**†


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR


3.73
4.10


3.73
4.10


3.73
4.10


7,600 lbs. (3 447 kg) 9,600 lbs. (4 354kg)


7,300 lbs. (3 311 kg) 9,300 lbs. (4 218 kg)


10,200 lbs. (4 626 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg)


14,000 lbs. (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs. (7 257 kg)**


14,000 lbs. (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs. (7 257 kg)


17,000 lbs. (7 711 kg) 19,000 lbs. (8 618 kg)


**GCWR limited to 14,000 lbs. (6 356 kg) on extended models with Z83 suspension. †2500 Extended Models (4WD) equipped with Z83 base suspension limited to 7,900 lbs. (3 586 kg) trailer.


The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.


You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to:


General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7


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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum or 600 lbs. (272 kg) for the 1500 series, and up to a maximum of 600 lbs. (272 kg) for the 2500 series with a weight carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum of 1,000 lbs. (453 kg) for the 1500 series and up to a maximum of 1,500 lbs. (680 kg) for the 2500 series with a weight distributing hitch. Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After you have loaded the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right by moving some items around in the trailer.


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Weight Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches


Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Loading Your Vehicle for more information. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch.


(A) Body to Ground Distance (B) Front of Vehicle


When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle. If you use a step-bumper hitch, the bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.


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If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when driving. Always use a sway control if the trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Safety Chains You should always attach safety chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. If you are towing a trailer up to 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) with a factory-installed step bumper, you may attach the safety chains to the attaching points on the bumper. If you are towing a trailer up to your vehicle’s trailer rating limit, you may attach the safety chains to the attaching point on the hitch platform. If you are towing with an aftermarket hitch, following the trailer or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.


Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. If your vehicle is equipped with Stabilitrak®, your trailer cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:


The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure. The trailer’s brake system will use less than 0.02 cubic inches (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.


Driving with a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you have a rear-most window open and you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can not see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-40. To maximize your safety when towing a trailer:


(cid:127) Have your exhaust system inspected for leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip.


(cid:127) Keep the rear-most windows closed.


If exhaust does come into your vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use the climate control setting for maximum air because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. See Climate Control System on page 3-22.


4-74


(cid:127) Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. If your vehicle is equipped with four-wheel steering and if you use it while backing your trailer the same rules apply. However, with four-wheel steering your rig will respond more quickly and it may take additional practice to get used to backing up with four-wheel steering.


Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


4-75


Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode” earlier in this section for more information. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 5-29.


Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brake, but don’t shift into


PARK (P) yet.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your


parking brake and shift into PARK (P).


5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL.


6. Release the regular brakes.


4-76


{CAUTION:


It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle will not move, even when you are on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel-drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in NEUTRAL.


When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you:


start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


4-77


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle is equipped with the following wiring harnesses for towing a trailer. Basic Trailer Wiring


The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:127) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Brown: Taillamps (cid:127) White: Ground


Light Green: Back-up Lamps


(cid:127) Red: Battery Feed (cid:127) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake


The trailer wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector, is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness connector can be plugged into a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector available through your dealer.


4-78


(cid:127) Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Harness Package


Your vehicle is equipped with the seven-wire trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform.


The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:127) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Brown: Taillamps (cid:127) White: Ground


Light Green: Back-up Lamps


(cid:127) Red: Battery Feed (cid:127) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake If your trailer is equipped with electronic brakes, you can get a jumper harness (electric trailer brake control) with a trailer battery feed fuse from your dealer. This harness and fuse should be installed by your dealer or a qualified service center. If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way round pin connector, you can also get an adapter.


4-79


(cid:127) Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness


{CAUTION:


Be sure to use only the correct trailer brake harness, the one intended for use on your vehicle. If you use some other trailer brake harness, even if it seems to fit, your trailer brakes may not work at all. You could have a crash in which you or others could be injured. Use only the trailer brake harness intended for your vehicle. If it is no longer available to you, be sure to get a proper replacement from your dealer.


4-80


This harness is included with your vehicle as part of the heavy-duty trailer wiring package. This harness is for an electric brake controller and includes a trailer battery feed fuse. It should be installed by your dealer or a qualified service center. This harness is new for your vehicle, and you will not be able to use a harness from an earlier model year.


Four-Wire Harness Adapter


This adapter is included with your vehicle as part of the heavy-duty trailer wiring package.


Use this adapter to connect a standard four-way round pin connector to the seven-wire harness on your vehicle.


Connect the adapter with the tab pointing up (see arrow). The flip cap on the vehicle’s seven-wire harness will lock onto the tab and help hold the adapter in place. Plug the four-way round pin connector onto the adapter.


4-81


Power Winches If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored. Step-Bumper Pad Your vehicle has a rear step bumper with a rear step pad at the center of the bumper.


If you will be using the bumper to tow a trailer, and your step-bumper has three cutout circles you must push out the center cutout circle to install the trailer ball.


If your step-bumper has only one cutout circle, you will have to cut out the circle, then remove it to install the trailer ball.


4-82


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-3
Adding Equipment to the Outside


of Your Vehicle ...........................................5-4
Fuel ................................................................5-4
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-4
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-5
Additives .......................................................5-5
Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol) .................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-8
Filling Your Tank ............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-16
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-21
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-23
Engine Coolant .............................................5-26
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-29
Engine Overheating .......................................5-29
Cooling System ............................................5-31


Engine Fan Noise .........................................5-38
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-38
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-40
Brakes ........................................................5-41
Battery ........................................................5-44
Jump Starting ...............................................5-45
All-Wheel Drive ..............................................5-51
Rear Axle .......................................................5-52
Four-Wheel Drive ............................................5-53
Front Axle ......................................................5-54
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-55
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-55
Headlamps ..................................................5-55
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and


Daytime Running Lamps .............................5-56
Side Identification Marker Lamps .....................5-57
Roof Marker Lamps ......................................5-58
Taillamps .....................................................5-59
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-60
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-61


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Tires ..............................................................5-62
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-71
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-72
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-74
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-76
Buying New Tires .........................................5-76
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-78
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-79
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-79
Tire Chains ..................................................5-81
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-82
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-83
Spare Tire .................................................5-101
Appearance Care ..........................................5-102
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle ...............5-102
Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-105
Weatherstrips .............................................5-105


Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle .............5-105
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-108
Finish Damage ...........................................5-108
Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-108
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-108
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ................5-109
Vehicle Identification .....................................5-110
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................5-110
Service Parts Identification Label ...................5-110
Electrical System ..........................................5-110
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-110
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-111
Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-111
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-111
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-120


5-2


Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-11. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-86. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-17.


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


5-3


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and


other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.


5-4


Fuel Gasoline The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-110. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E-85); also see Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol) on page 5-6. In all other engines, including the 5.3L V8 (VIN Code T), use only regular unleaded gasoline.


Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.


In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.


Canada Only


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-50 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations.


5-5


Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-110. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E-85); also see Fuel on page 5-4. In all other engines, including the 5.3L V8 (VIN Code T), use only regular unleaded gasoline. Only vehicles that have the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z) may use 85% ethanol fuel (E-85). General Motors encourages the use of E-85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E-85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops.


General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.


5-6


Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E-85) pump available. The U.S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (http://afdcmap.nrel.gov/nrel/) that can help you find E-85 fuel. Those stations that do have E-85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. Your vehicle may not operate properly if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. A a minimum, E-85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. To insure quick starts in the wintertime, the E-85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E-85, it may be because your E-85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to your fuel tank may improve starting. Your vehicle is designed to accommodate a mixture of gasoline and E-85 fuel. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol.


E-85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to refill your fuel tank more often when using E-85
than when you are using gasoline. Regular unleaded gasoline is recommended when pulling a trailer. For payload capacity with ethanol fuel, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-58. Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E-85 fuel and may harm your fuel system. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Do not use additives with E-85 fuel. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.


5-7


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.


While refueling, hang the fuel cap by the tether using the hook located on the inside of the filler door.


Filling Your Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


5-8


To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). It will require more effort to turn the fuel cap on the last turn as you loosen it.


{CAUTION:


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Don’t top off or overfill your tank and wait a few seconds after you’ve finished pumping before you remove the nozzle. Clean any spilled fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-105.


When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. It will require more effort to turn the fuel cap on the last turn as you tighten it. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. this would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-50.


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-50.


5-9


Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


5-10


Hood Release To open the hood do the following:


1. Pull the handle inside


the vehicle located under and to the left of the steering wheel.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on


the secondary hood release located near the center of the grill.


3. Lift the hood.


Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the VORTEC™ 5300 V8 engine (VORTEC™ 4800 and 6000 V8 engines similar), you’ll see the following:


5-12


A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.


I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-38.


B. Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling System on


page 5-31.


C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.


D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See Engine Oil on page 5-16. E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick. See Automatic


Transmission Fluid on page 5-23.


F. Engine Oil Fill. See Engine Oil on page 5-16. G. Fan. See Cooling System on page 5-31. H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND).


See Jump Starting on page 5-45.


J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-45.


K. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See Brakes on


page 5-41.


L. Underhood Fuse Block. See Fuses and Circuit


Breakers on page 5-111.


M. Battery. See Battery on page 5-44. N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield


Washer Fluid on page 5-40.


5-13


When you open the hood on the VORTEC™ 8100 V8 engine you’ll see the following:


5-14


A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.


B. Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling System on


page 5-31.


C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.


D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See Engine Oil on page 5-16. E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick. See Automatic


Transmission Fluid on page 5-23.


F. Engine Oil Fill. See Engine Oil on page 5-16. G. Fan. See Cooling System on page 5-31. H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND).


See Jump Starting on page 5-45.


I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-45.


J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-38.


K. Brake Master Fluid Reservoir. See Brakes on


page 5-41.


L. Underhood Fuse Block. See Fuses and Circuit


Breakers on page 5-111.


M. Battery. See Battery on page 5-44. N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield


Washer Fluid on page 5-40.


5-15


Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


8.1L Engine


All Other Engines


Engine Oil If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “CHECK OIL LEVEL” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-68. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


5-16


When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-120. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


5-17


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


5-18


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, if it is going to be 0°F (–18°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available, you may use SAE 10W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


5-19


When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life System) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


5-20


How to Reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL Message The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message, see “GM Oil Life System” under DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-56 for vehicles equipped with the DIC, or do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly


three times within five seconds. If the OIL LIFE RESET message flashes for 10 seconds, the system is resetting.


3. Turn the key to LOCK. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. If it still does not reset, see your dealer for service.


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for location of engine air cleaner/filter and change indicator (if equipped).


When to Inspect If your vehicle is equipped with a filter change indicator it lets you know when the filter needs to be replaced. Vehicles with a restriction indicator, inspect the air cleaner/filter at every oil change and replace the filter when the indicator tells you to. Vehicles without a change indicator, inspect the air cleaner/filter at every oil change and replace it at the first oil change after 25,000 miles (40 000 km).


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How to Inspect Locate the filter change indicator. When the change indicator turns black or is in the red/orange “change” zone, replace the filter and reset the indicator. To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains “caked” with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect and replace the filter and reset the indicator (if equipped), do the following:


The air cleaner/filter assembly is located on the front corner of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.


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1. Loosen the screws on the cover of the housing


and lift up the cover.


2. Remove the air cleaner/filter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.


3. Clean the filter sealing surface and the housing. 4. Install the new engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. 6. Reset the filter change indicator, if equipped,


by pressing the top button on the indicator.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it helps to stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire


Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:


In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.


(cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery


service.


If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.


In heavy traffic – especially in hot weather.


(cid:127) While pulling a trailer.


To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.


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(cid:127) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running.


(cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


(cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The transmission dipstick handle with the graphic is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick


and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower


level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


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(cid:127) How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill. Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON®-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON®-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. (cid:127) After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as


described under How to Check.


(cid:127) When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-29. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F ( −37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature.


Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL®(silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


(cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


If you use the proper coolant, you do not


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


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Checking Coolant


The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


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The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If your vehicle is equipped with a low coolant sensor, and the LOW COOLANT LEVEL message comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant. See “Low Coolant Level” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-68. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.


The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.


If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,


Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-47. In addition, you will find an ENGINE OVERHEATED, and a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message in the DIC on the instrument panel. See Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-56. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) If an overheated engine condition exists and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-16.


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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


CAUTION:


(Continued)

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