2003 Chevrolet Suburban Owners Manual

See your dealer for assistance. Wipe the video screen with a soft cloth that is 1 damp with water.

Rear Seat Audio (RSA) This feature allows rear seat passengers to listen to any of the audio sources: radio, cassette tapes, CDs, DVDs, XM (if your vehicle is equipped with XMTM Satellite Radio Service), or DAB (if your vehicle is equipped with DAB) depending on your vehicles options. However, the rear seat passengers can only control the music sources that the front seat passengers are not listening to. For example, rear seat passengers may listen to a cassette tape through headphones while the driver listens to the radio through the front speakers. The rear seat passengers have control of the volume for each set of headphones. The front seat audio controls always override the RSA controls.

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Rear Seat Audio Controls

(Volume): Turn

the knob to increase or to decrease

volume. The left knob controls the left headphone and the right knob controls the right headphone.

SRC (Source): Press this button to select an audio source: radio, cassette tapes, CDs, DVDs, XM (if your vehicle is equipped with XMTM Satellite Radio Service), or DAB (if your vehicle is equipped with DAB) depending on your vehicles options.

v SEEK A : While listening to AM, FM1 or FM2, XM1

or XM2, DAB1, or DAB2, press the up or the down arrow to tune to the next or to the previous station and stay there. If the front radio is in use, you cannot seek through different stations. While listening to a cassette tape, press the up or the down arrow to hear the next or the previous selection. If the cassette tape on the front radio is in use, you cannot seek through different selections on a tape. While listening to a CD, press the up arrow to hear the next track on the CD. Press the down arrow to go back to the start of the current track if more than eight seconds have played. If the CD player on the front radio is in use, you cannot seek through different tracks.

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RSA with HVAC Shown, RSA without HVAC Similar

The following functions are controlled by the RSA system buttons: (1) (Power): Press this button to turn the rear seat audio system on or off. The rear speakers will be muted when the power is turned on unless your vehicle is equipped with the Base@ audio system. You may operate the rear seat audio functions even when the primary radio power is off.

Audio Steering Wheel Controls You can control certain radio functions using the buttons on your steering wheel.

(OnStarNoice Recognition): If your vehicle has

OnStap, you can press this button to interact with the Onstar@ system. See the Onstar@ manual provided with your vehicle for more information. IF your vehicle does not have Onstar@, pressing this button will mute the audio system.

PROG (Program): The front passengers must be listening to something different for each of these functions to work:

Press this button to go to the preset radio stations set on the pushbuttons on the main radio. When a cassette tape is playing, press this button to go to the other side of the tape. When a CD is playing to go back to the beginning of the CD. When a CD is playing in the CD changer, press this button to select a disc.

in the radio, press this button

Theft-Deterrent Feature THEFTLOCK@ is designed to discourage theft of your radio. The feature works automatically by learning a portion of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). If the radio is moved to a different vehicle, it will not operate and LOCKED will be displayed. When the radio and vehicle are turned off, the blinking red light indicates that THEFTLOCK@ is armed. With THEFTLOCK@ activated, your radio will not operate if stolen.

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PROG (Program): Press this button to play a station you have programmed on the radio preset pushbuttons on the selected band. If a cassette tape is playing, press this button to play the other side of the tape. If a CD is playing, press this button to go to the next available CD.

A SOURCE v : Press this button to select AM, FM1 ,

FM2, or XMI or XM2, (if your vehicle is equipped with the XMTM Satellite Radio Service), or DAB1 or DAB2 (if your vehicle is equipped with DAB), or a cassette tape or CD. The cassette or CD must be loaded to play. Available loaded sources are shown on the display as a tape or a CD symbol. A SEEK 7: Press the up or the down arrow to seek to the next or to the previous radio station and stay there. A V O L v : Press the up or the down arrow to increase or to decrease volume.

DVD Distortion You may experience audio distortion in the IR headphones when operating cellular phones, scanners, CB radios, Global Position Systems (GPS)*, two-way radios, mobile fax, or walkie talkies. It may be necessary to turn off the DVD player when operating one of these devices in or near the vehicle. * Excludes the Onstar@ System. Understanding Radio Reception AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it. FM Stereo FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go.

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XMTM Satellite Radio Service XMTM Satellite Radio gives you digital radio reception from coast to coast. Just as with FM, tall buildings or hills can interfere with Satellite radio signals, causing the sound to come and go. Your radio may display “NO SIGNAL” to indicate interference. DAB Radio DAB gives you digital radio reception. Just as with FM, tall buildings or hills can interfere with radio signals, causing the sound to come and go. Your radio may display “NO SIGNAL” to indicate interference. Care of Your Cassette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight and extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate properly or may cause failure of the tape player. Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every 50 hours of use. Your radio may display CLEAN to indicate that you have used your tape player for 50 hours without resetting the tape clean timer. If this message appears on the display, your cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes,

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but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to your tapes and player. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if the tape or the tape player is at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player. For best results, use a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn. The recommended cleaning cassette is available through your dealership. When cleaning the cassette tape player with the recommended non-abrasive cleaning cassette, it is possible that the cassette may eject, because the cut tape detection feature on your radio may recognize it as a broken tape, in error. To prevent the cleaning cassette from being ejected, use the following steps:

1. Turn the ignition on. 2. Turn the radio off. 3. Press and hold the TAPE DISC button for five

seconds. READY will appear on the display and the cassette symbol will flash for five seconds.

4. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette. 5. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer‘s

recommended cleaning time.

When the cleaning cassette has been ejected, the cut tape detection feature is active again. You may also choose a non-scrubbing action, wet-type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject on its own. A non-scrubbing action cleaner may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner. The use of a non-scrubbing action, dry-type cleaning cassette is not recommended. After you clean the player, press and hold the eject button for five seconds to reset the CLEAN indicator. The radio will display --- or CLEANED to show the indicator was reset. Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced.

Care of Your CDs and DVDs Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the side without writing when handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge. Care of Your CD and DVD Player The use of CD lens cleaner discs is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism. Cleaning the Video Screen Pour some isopropyl or rubbing alcohol on a clean cloth and gently wipe the video screen. Do not spray directly onto the screen and do not press too hard or too long on the video screen.

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Fixed Mast Antenna The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should replace it. Check occasionally to be sure the mast is still tightened to the cowl. If tightening is required, tighten by hand, then with a wrench one quarter turn. XMTM Satellite Radio Antenna System Your XMTM Satellite Radio antenna is located on the roof of your vehicle. Keep this antenna clear of snow and ice build up for clear radio reception. The performance of your XMTM system may be affected if your sunroof is open. Loading items onto the roof of your vehicle can interfere with the performance of your XMTM system. Make sure that the XMTM satellite antenna is not obstructed.

DAB Radio Antenna System Your DAB antenna is located on the roof of your vehicle. Keep this antenna clear of snow and ice build up for clear radio reception. If your vehicle is purchased in Canada and driven into the United States the DAB radio antenna system will not function. DAB radio reception is available in Canada only. The performance of your DAB system may be affected if your sunroof is open. Loading items onto the roof of your vehicle can interfere with the performance of your DAB system. Make sure that the DAB antenna is not obstructed. Chime Level Adjustment The radio is the vehicle chime producer. To change the volume level, press and hold pushbutton 6 with the ignition on and the radio power off. The chime volume level will change from the normal level to loud, and LOUD will be displayed on the radio. To change back to the default or normal setting, press and hold pushbutton 6 again. The chime level will change from the loud level to normal, and NORMAL will be displayed. Each time the chime volume is changed, three chimes will sound as an example of the new volume selected. Removing the radio and not replacing it with a factory radio or chime module will disable vehicle chimes.

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Section 4 Driving Your Vehicle

Your Driving. the Road. and Your Vehicle .......... 4-2 Defensive Driving ........................................... 4-2 Drunken Driving ............................................. 4-3 Control of a Vehicle ........................................ 4-6 Braking ......................................................... 4-6 Traction Assist System (TAS) ........................... 4-9 Locking Rear Axle ........................................ 4-11 Stabilitrak@ System ....................................... 4-11 Steering ...................................................... 4-14 QUADRASTEERTM ....................................... 4-16 Off-Road Recovery ....................................... 4-19 Passing ....................................................... 4-19 Loss of Control ............................................. 4-21 Off-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive

Vehicle .................................................... 4-22 Driving at Night ............................................ 4-36 .................. 4-38 Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

City Driving .................................................. 4-41 Freeway Driving ........................................... 4-42 Before Leaving on a Long Trip ....................... 4-43 Highway Hypnosis ........................................ 4-44 Hill and Mountain Roads ................................ 4-44 Winter Driving .............................................. 4-46 If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud,

Ice or Snow .......................................... 4-50 Towing .......................................................... 4-53 Towing Your Vehicle ..................................... 4-53 Recreational Vehicle Towing ........................... 4-53 Loading Your Vehicle .................................... 4-56 Level Control ............................................... 4-57 AutorideTM .................................................. 4-58 Trailer Recommendations ............................... 4-59 Towing a Trailer ........................................... 4-59

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Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle

Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1-22. Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes.

Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task - such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor - makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.

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Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle:

Judgment Muscular Coordination Vision Attentiveness.

Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 16,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.

Many adults - by some estimates, nearly half the adult population - choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if someone plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things: 0 The amount of alcohol consumed 0 The drinker’s body weight

The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol.

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According to the American Medical Association, a 180 Ib (82 kg) person who drinks three 12 ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4 ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1 - 1/2 ounces (45 mi) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.

It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 mi of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in an increasing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, sets the legal limit at 0.08 percent. In some other countries, the limit is even lower. For example, it is 0.05 percent in both France and Germany. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them.

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But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater! The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “1’11 be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision.

There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking - driver or passenger - is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

Dr ........ 3 and then driving ._ . -.‘y dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgement can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious-or even fatal-collision Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

if you drive after drinking.

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Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle. Also see Traction Assist System (TAS) on page 4-9. 4-6

Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts - heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking - rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

the power

Anti-lock Brake System

Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on. This is normal.

If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, this warning light will stay on. See Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-42.

Along with ABS, your vehicle has a Dynamic Rear Proportioning (DRP) system. If there’s a DRP problem, both the Brake and ABS warning lights will come on accompanied by a 10-second chime. The lights and chime will come on each time the ignition is turned on until the problem is repaired. See your dealer for service.

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The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.

Let's say the road is wet and you're driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here's what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at both rear wheels.

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As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.

Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some noise, but this is normal. Braking in Emergencies With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.

Traction Assist System (TAS) Your vehicle may have a Traction Assist System (TAS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the rear wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system reduces engine power to limit wheel spin. The traction control system is enabled every time your vehicle is started. The system will activate if it senses that any of the wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. You may hear or feel the system working or notice a lack of accelerator response, but this is normal. The Traction Assist System may operate on dry roads under some conditions. When this happens, you may notice a reduction in acceleration. This is normal and doesn’t mean there’s a problem with your vehicle. Examples of these conditions include a hard acceleration in a turn, an abrupt upshift or downshift of the transmission or driving on rough roads.

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If your vehicle is in cruise control when the TAS begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may re-engage the cruise control. See “Cruise Control” under Turn SignaVMultifunction Lever on page 3-7.

- When the traction off light is on, the TAS is off and will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly.

The traction off light will come on under the following conditions:

The Traction Assist System is turned off, either by pressing the TAS on/off button or turning off the automatic engagement feature of the TAS. The transmission is in FIRST (1); TAS will not operate in this gear. This is normal.

The vehicle is driven on an extremely rough road. When the vehicle leaves the rough surface, slows down or stops, the light will go off and TAS will be on again. This is normal. A Traction Assist System, Anti-Lock Brake System or engine-related problem has been detected and the vehicle needs service. If the vehicle has been driven with the TAS system on for long periods of time, or if the vehicle has gone through many several high speed braking maneuvers the system may be automatically disabled. The system will automatically re-enable after approximately two minutes of not using the brakes.

See Traction Off Light on page 3-43. The Traction Assist System, as delivered from the factory, will automatically come on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the TAS off if you ever need to. You should turn the TAS off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud or snow and rocking the vehicle is required. See “Rocking Your Vehicle’’ under If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-50.

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To turn the system on or off, press the TAS on/off button located on the instrument panel.

If you used the button to turn the system off, the traction off light will come on and stay on. You can turn the system back on at any time by pressing the button again. The traction off light should go off. If desired, you can change the TAS automatic engagement feature so that the system will not come on automatically when the engine is started. To do so:

1. Park the vehicle with the ignition off and the

transmission in PARK (P).

2. Turn the ignition to RUN; do not start the engine. 3. Apply the brake pedal, press the accelerator

pedal to the floor and then press the TAS on/off button and hold it down for at least six seconds.

4. Release the TAS button and both pedals. 5. Turn off the ignition and wait a few seconds.

The next time you start your vehicle, the TAS will not automatically come on. You can restore the automatic feature by using the same procedure. Whether the TAS is set to come on automatically or not, you can always turn the system on or off by pressing the TAS on/off button. Locking Rear Axle If your vehicle has this feature, your locking rear axle can give you additional traction on snow, mud, ice, sand or gravel. It works like a standard axle most of the time, but when one of the rear wheels has no traction and the other does, this feature will allow the wheel with traction to move the vehicle. Stabilitrak@' System Your vehicle is equipped with the Stabilitrak@ which combines antilock brake, traction and stability control systems and helps the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle in most driving conditions. When you first start your vehicle and begin to drive away, the system performs several diagnostic checks to insure there are no problems. You may hear or feel the system working. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with your vehicle. The system should initialize before the vehicle reaches 20 m.p.h. (32 km/h). In some cases, it may take approximately two miles of driving before the system initializes.

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If the system fails to turn on or activate, the STABILITY SYS DISABLED or SERVICE STABILITY message will be displayed. If the vehicle has gone through heavy acceleration or braking during the first two miles after starting your vehicle, the STABILITY SYS DISABLED message may appear. If this is the case, your vehicle does not need servicing. Turn your vehicle off and back on again to reset the system. If either message appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC), and your vehicle hasn’t gone through hard acceleration or braking in the first two miles, your vehicle should be taken in for service. The STABILITY SYS ACTIVE message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) only when the system is both on and activated. You may also feel or hear the system working; this is normal. For more information on the stability messages, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-52.

The Stabilitrak@ mode button is located on the instrument panel.

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Stabilitrak@ and part of the traction control system can be turned off or back on by pressing the Stabilitrak@ button. All-wheel drive vehicles must be in all-wheel drive mode to turn the system on or off. When the system is turned off, the traction off light will illuminate, and the STABILITY SYS DISABLED message will appear on the DIC to warn the driver that both the stability system and part of the traction control system are disabled. Your vehicle will still have brake-traction control when Stabilitrak@ is off, but will not be able to use the engine speed management system. See “Traction Control Operation” next for more information. When the Stabilitrak@ system has been turned off you may still hear system noises as a result of the brake-traction control coming on. It is recommended to leave the system on for normal driving conditions, but it may be necessary to turn the system off if your vehicle is stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, and you want to “rock” your vehicle to attempt to free it. It may also be necessary to turn off the system when driving in extreme off-road conditions where high wheel spin is required. See If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-50. When the transfer case is in 4 low, the stability system is automatically disabled, and the STABILITY SYS DISABLED message will appear on the DIC. In 4 low, the Stabilitrak@ button only turns the traction control system on and off.

Traction Control Operation The traction control system is part of the Stabilitrak@ system. Traction control limits wheel spin by reducing engine power to the wheels (engine speed management) and by applying brakes to each individual wheel (brake-traction control) as necessary. The traction control system is enabled automatically when you start your vehicle, and it will activate and display the TRACTION ACTIVE message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) if it senses that any of the wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction while driving. If you turn off Stabilitrak@ , only the brake-traction control portion of traction control will work. The engine speed management will be disabled. In this state, engine power is not reduced automatically and the driven wheels can spin more freely. This can cause the brake-traction control to activate constantly. For more information on the traction active message, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-52.

Notice: If the traction off light comes on due to heavy braking and/or because the traction control system has been continuously active, do not allow the wheel(s) of one axle to spin excessively. If you do, the traction off light will flash to indicate that you may be causing damage to your transfer case. This could lead to costly repairs not covered by your warranty. You should immediately reduce engine power until the traction off light stops flashing. If the brake-traction control system activates constantly or if the brakes have heated up due to high speed braking, the brake-traction control will be automatically disabled. The system will come back on after the brakes have cooled. This can take up to two minutes or longer depending on brake usage. Notice: Don’t allow the wheel(s) of one axle to spin excessively when the traction off, ABS and brake lights are on and the SERVICE STABILITY MESSAGE is displayed. In this situation, the system may not be able to flash the traction off light to warn the driver of possible damage to the transfer case. This could lead to costly repairs not covered by your warranty. You should immediately reduce engine power until the lights and messages are no longer displayed.

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The traction control system may activate on dry or rough roads or under conditions such as heavy acceleration while turning or abrupt upshifts/downshifts of the transmission. When this happens you may notice a reduction in acceleration, or may hear a noise or vibration. This is normal. If your vehicle is in cruise control when the system activates, the STABILITY SYS ACTIVE message will appear on the Driver Information Center and the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to use cruise again, you may re-engage the cruise control. See “Cruise Control” under Turn SignaVMultifunction Lever on page 3-7 Stabilitrak@ may also turn off automatically if it determines that a problem exists with the system. If the problem does not clear itself after restarting the vehicle, you should see your dealer for service. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.

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Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems - steering and acceleration - have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. See Traction Assist System (TAS) on page 4-9. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down.

Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking - if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action - steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. See Braking on page 4-6. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

4-1 5

QUADRASTEERTM The QUADRASTEERTM System has a control and diagnostic module that monitors and records current system status and operational information. If your vehicle is equipped with the 4 Wheel Steer system it has the ability to steer the vehicle with all four wheels Once the 4 Wheel Steer mode is selected, it is recommended to leave the vehicle in this mode at all times, and during all driving and weather conditions. You can select this mode at any speed, however, if you are turning the system will not engage until the turn is complete. The 4 Wheel Steer system is equipped with three different driving modes:

Two wheel steering (2) Four wheel steering (4) Four wheel steering with a trailer mode (q )

4:-

II

The switch is located on the instrument panel.

2: In this mode the vehicle will operate like any other vehicle with two wheel steering. If you want to use 2 wheel steer mode and your vehicle is not in this mode, press the button until the 2 indicator, located to the right of the 4 Wheel Steer button, lights up. If the 2 indicator is flashing you will have to center the steering wheel by turning it to the left or right. Your vehicle will return to 2 when the transmission is shifted into NEUTRAL, for example when entering a car wash.

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If you want to use tire chains, the vehicle needs to be in 2 wheel steer mode.

4: In this mode all four wheels will help steer the vehicle. If you want to use 4, and your vehicle is not in this mode, press the button, until the 4 indicator, located to the right of the 4 Wheel Steer button, comes on and stays on. If the 4 indicator is flashing you will have to center the steering wheel by turning it to the left or right.

Slower Speeds (below 40 m.p.h./ 64 km/h )

At slower speeds the front and rear wheels will turn in opposite directions. This helps the vehicle make tighter turns, such as during parking, cornering and turning into tight spaces.

Higher Speeds (40 m.p.h./64 km/h, and above) At higher speeds the front and rear wheels will turn in the same direction. This improves stability of the vehicle during lane changes and sweeping turns.

(4 Wheel Steer tow mode): When towing a

trailer the 4 wheel steer tow mode provides enhanced stability allowing the trailer to follow the path of the tow vehicle more closely, especially during lane changes. In this mode the system operates much like the 4 mode, but is enhanced for trailer towing. It is recommended for all types and weights of trailers.

4-1 7

B-

--

13 in.

13 in.

To engage the 4 Wheel Steer tow mode, press the button until the 4 and tow mode indicators light up on the instrument panel. If the tow indicator is flashing you will have to center the steering wheel by turning it to the left or right. While in the 4 wheel steer tow mode, it is possible the steering wheel may be slightly off center. For more information, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-59. Car Washes for QUADRASTEERTM Equipped Vehicles

Notice: Because your vehicle has a wider rear track a small number of older car washes may be too narrow for your vehicle. Conveyor systems on some automatic car washes may damage your vehicle. Only use conveyor system car washes with 13-inch (33 cm) wide conveyor rails and/or stationary washes with at least 82 inches (208 cm) between the rails. Before using the car wash check with the manager.

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Off -Road Recovery

You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

Passing Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents - the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: 0 “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.

4-1 9

Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that if your right outside mirror is convex, the vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.) Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle. Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

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Loss of Control

Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.

In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.

If you have the Traction Assist System, remember: It helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If you do not have this system, or if the system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues - such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

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Off-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle

This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel drive. Also, see Braking on page 4-6. If your vehicle doesn’t have four-wheel drive, you shouldn’t drive off-road unless you’re on a level, solid surface. Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. “Off-roading” means you’ve left the great North American road system behind. Traffic lanes aren’t marked. Curves aren’t banked. There are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill. In short, you’ve gone right back to nature. Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that’s why it’s very important that you read this guide. You’ll find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable. If you think you will need some more ground clearance at the front of your vehicle, you can easily remove the front bumper lower air dam.

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The front bumper lower air dam is held in place by a series of push-pins located around the lower edge of the front bumper. The push-pins are accessible from underneath the front bumper.

The following steps must be performed on each of the push-pins to remove the air dam:

1. Insert a tool into the

push-pin slot and pull downward until the push-pin snaps loose.

3. Pull the push-pins and lower air dam assembly away from the retainers until the lower air dam is free.

2. While continuing to pull

downward on the push-pin, squeeze and turn the expandable end of the push-pin with a tool until it releases from the retainer.

When you’re back on roads, though, be sure to replace the air dam. Notice: Operating your vehicle for extended periods without the front bumper lower air dam installed can cause improper air flow to the engine and may allow things like fog lamps or tow hooks on the front of your vehicle to be damaged. Always be sure to replace the front bumper air dam when you’re finished off-road driving.

- \

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To reinstall the lower air dam do the following:

1. Line up each push-pin

with its intended retainer and push the washer portion of the push-pin towards the retainer until it locks into place.

/ ,

2. Push the flat end of the

push-pin towards the retainer until it locks into place, making sure each is secure.

Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Check to make sure all underbody shields (if so equipped) are properly attached. Be sure you read all the information about your four-wheel-drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you’ll be driving? If you don’t know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission. Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.

The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can. Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on the off-road terrain doesn’t toss things around.

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0 Cargo

I the load floor piled

r tt the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks. Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.

0 Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s

center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.

You’ll find other important information in this manual. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-56 and Tires on page 5-6 I .

Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the

environment: Always use established trails, roads and areas that have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving; obey all posted regulations. Avoid any driving practice that could damage the environment - shrubs, flowers, trees, grasses - or disturb wildlife (this includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground). Always carry a litter bag - make sure all refuse is removed from any campsite before leaving. Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted), camp stoves and lanterns. Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.

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Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly. Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to use it properly. Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different skills. Here’s what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet and body, you’ll need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.

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Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds:

you approach things faster and you have less time to scan the terrain for obstacles. you have less time to react. you have more vehicle bounce when you drive over obstacles. you’ll need more distance for braking, especially since you’re on an unpaved surface.

;ou ., dr ... ng off-road, bouncing and W..,.. quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you’re driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider.

Surface Conditions: Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction and longer braking distances.

Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:

Is the path ahead clear? Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (There’s more discussion of these subjects later.) Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction quickly?

When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you’re not prepared. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what isn’t. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious - or even fatal - accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. See Drunken Driving on page 4-3.

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Driving on Off-Road Hills across a Off-road driving often takes you up, down or hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment may and an understanding of what your vehicle can and can’t do. There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

any h...; are sirr , y too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you can’t control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, don’t drive the hill.

Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it’s one of those hills that’s just too steep to climb, descend or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant

incline with only a can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you

small change in elevation where you

not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden

by bushes, grass or

Here are some other a hill.

things to consider as you approach

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping? Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you won’t have to make turning maneuvers? Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)? What’s beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you don’t know. It’s the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps.

Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering wheel. Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain your speed. Don’t use more power than you need, because you don’t want your wheels to start spinning or sliding. Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

1 s can be 1 ning or driving across steep dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of the hill.

0 Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills. Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to let opposing traffic know you’re there. Use your headlamps even during the day. They make you more visible to oncoming traffic.

~~

~ ~ ~ i

t f l speed

the to,- ,crest) of a hi1

Dri can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

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Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and I can’t make it up the hill? A: If this happens, there are some things you should do, and there are some things you must not do. First, here’s what you should do: Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake. If your engine is still running, shift the transmission to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R). If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).

0 As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand

on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill.

Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into NEUTRAL (N) to “rev-up” the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down. Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

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Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the

hill and decide I just can’t do it. What should I do? A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in

PARK (P) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

-ng the tr_---sfer case to L JTRAL can

cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). This is because the NEUTRAL position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P). But do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the transfer case in the 2 Wheel High, 4 High or 4 Low position.

Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to consider a number of things: 0 How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain

vehicle control? What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel? Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders? What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

4-3 1

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping yo1 .- ..-’We under control at all times.

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

driving down a hill?

Q: Are there some things I should not do when A: Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose control and have a serious accident.

When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down. Never go downhill with the transmission in NEUTRAL (N). This is called “free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

0: Am I likely to stall when going downhill? A: It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it

happens going downhill, here’s what to do. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes. Apply the parking brake. Shift to PARK (P) and, while still braking, restart the engine.

0 Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,

and drive straight down. If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.

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Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider: 0 A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover. Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over.

0 Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the

incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.

For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

Drivi - across an inc re make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, don’t drive across it. Find another route instead.

It’s too steep will

Q: What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do? A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and ”walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

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Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

4-34

Getting out on the downhill (WN) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances. It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck. When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide Ammt of control.

If the water isn’t too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

Driving in Water Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or exhaust pipe, don’t try it - you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts.

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing water.

See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-38 for more information on driving through water.

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Driving at Night

After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired - by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

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You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean - inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness - the inability to see in dim light - and aren’t even aware of it.

Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively

0 Don’t drink and drive.

Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

* ! !

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

T y won’t Wet b kes can cause acci nts. work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water

Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

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Driving Through Flowing Water

FIOL,,~ or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips

Turn on your low-beam headlamps - not just your parking lamps -to help make you more visible to others. Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires on page 5-6 I.

City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:

Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 4-42. Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.

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The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot.

Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservior full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh - such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

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Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. See Off-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle on page 4-22 for information about driving off-road.

Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

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You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a failing rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action. Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

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Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution. If you have traction assist, keep the system on. It will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. But you can turn the traction system off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow. See If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-50. Even though your vehicle has a traction system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See Traction Assist System (TAS) on page 4-9. If you don’t have a traction system, accelerate gently. Try not to break the gentle traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.

Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Braking on page 4-6.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:

e Turn on your hazard flashers.

Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow.

0 Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.

If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

Snow can trap exhaust gases under ! Jr vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.

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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

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they

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If you ~- 1 your tires spin at I..,.. can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 25 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-68.

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI or 4LO. If your vehicle has the Traction Assist System, you should turn it off by pressing the TAS on/off button. If your vehicle has the Stabilitrak@ System, turn the Stabilitrak@ System off by pressing the Stabilitrak@ button so that the STABILITY SYS DISABLED and TRACTION OFF lights are illuminated on the instrument panel cluster. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn't get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-53.

Using the Recovery Hooks

Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you're stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

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These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. ' The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

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Towing

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle - such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and ”dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing”, following.

Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: