2003 Chevrolet Suburban Owners Manual

0 Red: Battery Feed

Dark Blue: Trailer Brake

If your trailer is equipped with electronic brakes, you can get a jumper harness (electric trailer brake control) with a trailer battery feed fuse from your dealer. This harness and fuse should be installed by your dealer or a qualified service center. If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way round pin connector, you can also get an adapter.

Power Winches If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored. Step-Bumper Pad Your vehicle has a rear step bumper with a rear step pad at the center of the bumper.

If you will be using the bumper to tow a trailer, and your step-bumper has three cutout circles you must push out the center cutout circle to install the trailer ball.

If your step-bumper has only one cutout circle, you will have to cut out the circle, then remove it to install the trailer ball.

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.PZX NOTES

4-74

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Service ............................................................

5.3 Doing Your Own Sewice Work ......................... 5-4 Adding Equipment to

the Outside of Your

Vehicle ...................................................... 5.4 Fuel ................................................................ 5.5 Gasoline Octane ............................................ 5.5 Gasoline Specifications .................................... 5-6 California Fuel ............................................... 5.6 Additives ....................................................... 5-6 Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol) ................................. 5-7 Fuels in Foreign Countries ............................... 5-8 Filling Your Tank ............................................ 5-9 Filling a Portable Fuel Container ..................... 5-1 1

Checking Things Under

the Hood ............................................... -5-1 2 Hood Release .............................................. 5.12 Engine Compartment Overview ....................... 5.14 Engine Oil ................................................... 5-17 Engine Air CleanedFilter ................................ 5-22 Automatic Transmission Fluid ......................... 5-25 Engine Coolant ............................................. 5.27 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap .................. 5-30 Engine Overheating ....................................... 5-30 Cooling System ............................................ 5-33 Engine Fan Noise ......................................... 5-38 Power Steering Fluid ..................................... 5-38

Windshield Washer Fluid ................................ 5-39 Brakes ........................................................ 5-40 Battery ....................................................... -5-44 Jump Starting ............................................... 5-45 All-Wheel Drive .............................................. 5.50 Rear Axle ....................................................... 5.51 Four-wheel Drive ............................................ 5.52 Front Axle ...................................................... 5.53 Bulb Replacement .......................................... 5.54 Halogen Bulbs .............................................. 5.54 Headlamps .................................................. 5.54 Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime

Running Lamps ......................................... 5-55 Side Identification Marker Lamps ..................... 5.56 Roof Marker Lamps ...................................... 5.56 Taillamps ..................................................... 5.58 Replacement Bulbs ....................................... 5.59 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement .............. 5.60 Ti res .............................................................. 5.6 1 Inflation .. Tire Pressure ................................ 5.62 Tire Inspection and Rotation ........................... 5.62 When It Is Time for New Tires ....................... 5-64 Buying New Tires ......................................... 5.64 Uniform Tire Quality Grading .......................... 5.65 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance .................. 5-66

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Section 5 Service and Appearance Care

Wheel Replacement .................................. 5.67 Tire Chains .................................................. 5.68 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................ 5-69 Changing a Flat Tire ..................................... 5-70 Spare Tire ................................................... 5-87 Appearance Care ............................................ 5.88 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle ................. 5-88 Care of Safety Belts ...................................... 5.91 Weatherstrips ............................................... 5.91 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle .............. 5-91 Sheet Metal Damage ..................................... 5-93 Finish Damage ............................................. 5-93 Underbody Maintenance ................................ 5-93 Chemical Paint Spotting ................................. 5.94 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ........... 5-94

Vehicle Identification .....................................

5-96 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................. 5-96 Service Parts Identification Label ..................... 5-96 Electrical System ............................................ 5-97 Add-on Electrical Equipment .......................... 5.97 ................................ 5.97 Windshield Wiper Fuses ....... 5-97 Power Windows and Other Power Options Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................ 5-97 Capacities and Specifications ........................ 5-106 Capacities and Specifications ........................ 5-106 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts ......... 5-109 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts ......... 5-109

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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you'll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You'll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you'll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

5-3

Doing Your Own Service Work

If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7- I I. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-79. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Part E: Maintenance Record on page 6-18.

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You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel Gasoline The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle identification Number (VIN) on page 5-96. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E-85); also see Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 5-7. In all other engines, including the 5.3L V8 (VIN Code T), use only regular unleaded gasoline.

or

Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

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Gasoline Specifications

It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

~~

Canada Only

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California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-46 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.

Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle ldenfificafion Number (VIN) on page 5-96. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E-85); also see Fuel on page 5-5. In all other engines, including the 5.3L V8 (VIN Code T), use only regular unleaded gasoline. Only vehicles that have the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z) may use 85% ethanol fuel (E-85). Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E-85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (http://afdcmap.nrel.gov/nreI/) that can help you find E-85 fuel. Those stations that do have E-85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greafer than 85%. Your vehicle may not operate properly if the ethanol content is greater than 85%.

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At a minimum, E-85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. To insure quick starts in the wintertime, the E-85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E-85, it may be because your E-85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to your fuel tank may improve starting. Your vehicle is designed to accommodate a mixture of gasoline and E-85 fuel. for good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (OOC), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. E-85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you’ll need to refill your fuel tank more often when using E-85 than when you’re using gasoline. Regular unleaded gasoline is recommended when pulling a trailer. For payload capacity with ethanol fuel, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-56.

Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E-85 fuel and may harm your fuel system. Damage caused by additives wouldn’t be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Don’t use additives with E-85 fuel. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

5-8

Filling Your Tank

Fuel vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel.

The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

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If you get fuel on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-91.

While refueling, hang the fuel cap by the tether using the hook located on the inside of the filler door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

5-1 0

When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. this would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction lndicator Lamp on page 3-46. Notice; If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction lndicator Lamp” in the Index.

Fi”’ng a PC . ‘)le Fu

’ C - nt- ‘ner

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

0 Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

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Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood do the following:

1. Pull the handle inside

the vehicle located under and to the left of the steering wheel.

Things that burn can get on hot engine . rts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

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2. Then go

to the front of the vehicle and pull up on

the secondary hood release located near the center of the grill.

3. Lift the hood.

Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the VORTEC 5300 V8 engine (VORTEC 4800 and 6000 V8 engines similar), you'll see the following:

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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped) D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick F. Engine Oil Fill G. Fan

H. Remote Negative (-j Terminal (GND) I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal K. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir L. Underhood Fuse Block M. Battery N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

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When you open the hood on the VORTEC 8100 V8 engine you’ll see the following:

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Engine Oil If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “CHECK OIL LEVEL” under DiC Warnings and Messages on page 3-62. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped) D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick F. Engine Oil Fill G. Fan H. Remote Negative (-) Terminal (GND) I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir K. Brake Master Fluid Reservoir L. Underhood Fuse Block M. Battery N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

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Checking Engine Oil It's a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

The engine oil dipstick has a yellow ring handle and is located in the engine compartment on the passenger's side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-74 for more information on location.

Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don't, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

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8.1 L Engine

All Other Engines

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5- 106. Notice: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil fill cap for the VORTEC 4800, 5300, 6000 and 8100 V8 engine is located on the engine valve cover, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

Your vehicle may have a cap with text and a graphic, or just a graphic as shown. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

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RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol. 7 If you choose to perform

WEATHER

HOT

the engine oil change service yourself, be sure the oil you use has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into

your engine is American L for gasoline engines.

Petroleum Institute certified

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the viscosity chart.

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COLD WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER VISCOSITY GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle. You should look for and use only oils which have the API Starburst symbol and which are also identified as SAE 5W-30. If you cannot find such SAE 5W-30 oils, you can use an SAE IOW-30 oil which has the API Starburst symbol, if it's going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE IOW-40 or SAE 2OW-50 under any conditions.

Notice: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29"C), recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don't add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

it is

When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life SystemTM) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

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How to Reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL Message The GM Oil Life SystemTM calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you can change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal three

times within five seconds.

If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message flashes for five seconds, the system is reset.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. Engine Air CleanedFilter The air cleaner/filter assembly has an indicator, if equipped, that lets you know when the engine air cleanedfilter is dirty and needs to be serviced. The air cleaner/filter indicator is located on the air cleaner cover. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.

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See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6- IO to determine when to check the indicator.

The service window A with the percentage scale shows the amount of engine air cleanedfilter life used. When both service window A and service window B turn orange, replace the engine air cleaner/filter.

After changing the air filter, press the top button on the indicator to reset it.

The air cleanedfilter assembly is located on the front corner of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-74 for more information on location.

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4. Install the new engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See Part B:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

Notice: If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

To replace the engine air cleaner/filter do the following:

1. Loosen the screws on the cover of the housing

and lift up the cover.

2. Remove the air cleanedfilter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.

3. Clean the filter sealing surface and the housing.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

towing.

If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (1 66 000 km). See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.

0 While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The red transmission dipstick handle with the graphic is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (IOOC). If it’s colder than 50°F (IOOC), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (IOOC) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (IOOC), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

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3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-16. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

Nofice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@ 111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@ 111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under How to Check. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL@ engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL@ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-30.

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A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F ( -37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

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Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Checking Coolant

The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compantment Overview on page 5-74 for more information on location.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If the LOW COOLANT LEVEL message comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant. See “Low Coolant Level” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-62. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.

burnec

you spill coa

You can be engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

In hot

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.

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Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap

See Engine Comparfment Overview on page 5-14 for

The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank.

Notice: Your pressure cap is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. See “Capacities and Specifications” for more information.

5-30

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-44. In addition, you will find a LOW COOLANT LEVEL, ENGINE OVERHEATED and a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message in the DIC on the instrument panel. See Driver information Center (DIC) on page 3-52. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) If an overheated engine condition exists and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.

any repair.

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

eryone away fro

the venlcle cools

down. Wait until there is no sign of s~eam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Notice; If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

5-31

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get sewice help right away.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message, can indicate a serious problem. See Low Coolant under DlC Warnings and Messages on page 3-62. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-59.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:

1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in neutral while

stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road. Shift to park or neutral and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

5-32

Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

8100 V8 Engines

All Other Engines

A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

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If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

P-

Heater and radiato. .ioses, and --.ier engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

5-34

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-27 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the

CAUTION:

(Continued)

surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait

COOK for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

5-35

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX COOL@ coolant.

Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

1. Park the vehicle on a

level surface. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.

2. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left)

about one full turn. if you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

3. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

5-36

4. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper

mixture, to the FULL COLD mark.

5. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.

5-37

6. Then replace the

pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages. Power Steering Fluid

Engine Fan Noise

Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.

5-38

81 00 Engines

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Comparfment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-74 for reservoir location.

5-39

Adding Washer Fluid 7 Open the cap with the Brake Fluid

washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

Notice:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

5-40

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See "Checking Brake Fluid" in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Parf C: Periodic Maintenance inspections on page 6-14.

,.f i . .. +.L't~"x.za

.. ,,:;.%

I _"

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn't have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

5-4 1

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 16. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

Notice:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

5-42

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System lnspection on page 6- 15. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.

5-43

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Batl... ies have acid that can d r n you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3- 124.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco@ battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco@ battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 14 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

5-44

Jump Starting If your battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or

They contain enough electricity to

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

1. Check the other vehicle.

It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put the automatic transmission in PARK (P) before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear not in NEUTRAL.

Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all the lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminal locations of the other vehicle.

5-45

Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (-) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind a red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive bracket. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover. The remote negative (-) terminal is located on the engine drive bracket on all V8 and diesel engines, and on the thermostat housing on the 8.1 L engine. On V8 engines it is marked ”GND.” See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 14 for more information on location.

5-46

causc attery

near a battery can

- lg a mat gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco@ battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

’ moving engine parts can injure

Fans or otl you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7.

Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

5-47

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) cable. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

10. Connect the other end

of the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the dead battery or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

9. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next

step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part, or to the remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

11. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

12. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If

it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Nofice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

5-48

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (-) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the bad battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover to its

original position.

5-49

All-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-14. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-16.

Automatic Transfer Case (A) Fill Plug (B) Drain Plug

5-50

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (1 5 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 2500 Series is from 0 to 1/2 inch (0 to 13 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 1500 and 2500 series vehicles with QUADRASTEERTM (4 Wheel Steer) is from 0 to 1/4 inch (0 to 6 mm) below the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-16.

1500 Series shown, 2500 similar

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

5-51

Four-wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-14. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 16.

~~ Automatic Transfer Case

5-52

Front Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 0 to 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Pad D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-16.

5-53

Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. See Replacement Bulbs on page 5-59 for the proper types of bulbs to use. Halogen Bulbs

Headlamps

nalogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

1. Your vehicle is equipped with two pins, remove the two pins on the top of the headlamp assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin outward and pull it straight up. To remove the inner pin, turn it in and pull it straight up.

5-54

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime Running Lamps

A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. High-Beam Headlamp

2. Pull the headlamp assembly out. 3. Unplug the electrical connector. 4. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it

from the headlamp assembly.

5. Put the new bulb into the assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight. Use care not to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands.

6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

Install and tighten the two pins.

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Retainer Clip C. Front Turn Signal Lamp D. Daytime Running Lamp 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as mentioned

previously.

2. Press the retainer clip, located behind the turn

signal housing, towards the outside of the vehicle. 3. Pull the turn signal housing out from the vehicle.

5-55

4. Unplug the lamp assembly harness from the

housing.

5. Unplug the lamp. 6. Put in a new lamp and snap it into the housing. 7. Reinstall the lamp housing. Roof Marker Lamps

1. Remove the two screws and lift off the lens.

4. Press the locking release lever, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal housing.

5. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 6. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. Use care not

to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands.

7. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing and

turn it clockwise until it locks.

8. Put the turn signal housing back onto the vehicle placing the hook and posts on the inner side into the alignment holes first and then the outer side into the retainer bracket. Push until you hear a click.

9. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle. Side Identification Marker Lamps 1. To expose the service slot, locate the lamp gasket

near the rear wheel, and pull back the edge.

2. Using a flat tool, push into the slot to release the

lamp housing.

3. Pull the housing out to expose the wiring harness

and connector.

5-56

2. Remove the six screws on the center roof marker

lamps.

3. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise to remove it

from the socket.

4. Put a new bulb into the

socket and turn clockwise until it locks in place.

5-57

Taillamps

A. Turn Signal Lamp 6. Back-up Lamp C. Stoplamp

5. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws.

1. Use a tool to remove the two screws from the lamp assembly.

5-58

2. Remove the lamp assembly. 3. Press the release tab and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp housing.

Replacement Bulbs

- Exterior Lamp

4. Pull the old bulb

straight out from the socket .

Lamp

5. Press a new bulb into the socket, insert the socket

into the taillamp housing and turn the socket clockwise into the taillamp housing until it clicks.

6. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly

Bulb Number 9006 Low-Beam Headlamps 9005 41 57K 194 3457A 3157

High-Beam Headlamps Daytime Running Lamps (DRL Front Roof Marker Lamp Front Parking and Turn Lamp

Taillamp and

I Rear Marker Lamp, Stop I Rear Turn Lamp 1 Back-up Lamp I For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer.

13157

13157

5-59

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See At Least Twice a Year on page 6-10 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5- 109.

5-60

To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is

facing away from the windshield.

2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly

toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.

3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.

Ti res Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your warranty booklet for details.

Poorly maintained and imp1 are dangerous.

berly used tires

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

ated tires pose I same danger

as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

5-61

Inflation -- Tire Pressure

The Certificationrrire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing

0 Too much heat

Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear Bad handling

0 Rough ride

Needless damage from road hazards

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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 7,500 miles (12 500 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-67 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the ratchevwheel wrench to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70.

The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services,” in Section 6, for scheduled rotation intervals-

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the CertificationRire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-106.

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the b-.Zs to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

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When It Is Time for New Tires

Buying New Tires

To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specifications (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:

You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. If your vehicle has 17 inch road tires (those originally installed on your vehicle) it is all right to drive with the 16 inch spare tire that came with your vehicle. When new, your vehicle included a spare tire and wheel assembly with the same overall diameter as your vehicle’s road tires and wheels. Because this spare tire was developed for use on your vehicle, it will not affect vehicle handling or cause damage to your vehicle.

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires.

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While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 5 ) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance

The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balancea carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.

Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Wheel Replacement

Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

l g the w 1g replacement wheels, wheel

bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70 for more information.

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Used Replacement Wheels

Tire Chains

Putl,.,g a used wheel on your vehic,, is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

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IT your vehicle has r265/75R16, LT265/75R16, P265ROR16, or P265/7OR17 size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged bythe tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

Notice: If you have a tire size other than P265D5R16, LT265D5R16, P265DQR16, or P265DQR17 use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the rear tires only. Don’t use chains on the front tires. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends