But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
4-41
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, drive belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-29.
4-42
(cid:127)
(cid:127)
(cid:127)
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your
Vehicle ......................................................5-4
Fuel ................................................................5-4
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel
...............................................5-5
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) ..................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-17
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-20
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-22
Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-23
Engine Coolant .............................................5-26
Pressure Cap ...............................................5-28
Engine Overheating .......................................5-29
Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode ...5-31
Cooling System ............................................5-31
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-38
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-39
Brakes ........................................................5-40
Battery ........................................................5-42
Jump Starting ...............................................5-43
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-47
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-47
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-47
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker,
and Parking Lamps ....................................5-48
Taillamps, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps ........5-50
Back-Up Lamps ............................................5-51
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-51
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-52
Tires ..............................................................5-54
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-55
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-57
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-60
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-62
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-66
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-67
Buying New Tires .........................................5-68
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-69
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-70
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-71
5-1
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-71
Tire Chains ..................................................5-73
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-74
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-74
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-76
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the
Spare Tire ................................................5-77
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-83
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-85
Appearance Care ............................................5-85
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-85
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-87
Leather .......................................................5-87
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic
Surfaces ..................................................5-88
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-88
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-88
Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-89
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-89
Finish Care ..................................................5-89
Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-90
Aluminum Wheels .........................................5-90
Tires ...........................................................5-91
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-91
Finish Damage .............................................5-91
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-91
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-92
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-92
Vehicle Identification ......................................5-93
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-93
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-93
Electrical System ............................................5-94
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-94
Headlamp Wiring ..........................................5-94
Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-94
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-94
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-95
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..........................5-95
Underhood Fuse Block ..................................5-97
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-100
5-2
Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.
California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.
5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work
{CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and
other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-65.
5-4
You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-14.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-93. If your vehicle has the 3.5L V6 engine (VIN Code K only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 5-6. In all other engines, use only regular unleaded gasoline.
Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has a V6 engine, use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code C), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You may also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration may be slightly reduced, and you may notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you may notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.
Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information.
California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-34. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
5-5
Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.
5-6
Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-93. If your vehicle has the 3.5L V6 engine (VIN Code K only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel on page 5-4. In all other engines, including the 3.5L V6 (VIN Code N), use only regular unleaded gasoline. Only vehicles that have the 3.5L V6 engine (VIN Code K) may use 85% ethanol fuel (E85). General Motors encourages the use of E85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops.
Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (http:// www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/infrastructure/locator.html) that can help you find E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E85, it may be because your E85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to your fuel tank may improve starting. Your vehicle is designed to accommodate a mixture of gasoline and E85 fuel. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to refill your fuel tank more often when using E85 than when you are using gasoline. Regular unleaded gasoline is recommended when pulling a trailer. For payload capacity with ethanol fuel, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85 fuel and may harm your fuel system. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Do not use additives with E85 fuel. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.
Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.
5-7
Filling the Tank
{CAUTION:
Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.
5-8
The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap on the hook on the inside of the fuel door.
{CAUTION:
If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-89. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-34.
The TIGHTEN GAS CAP message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46 for more information.
{CAUTION:
If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-34.
5-9
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
{CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.
Checking Things Under the Hood
{CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
5-10
Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:
1. Pull the interior hood
release handle with this symbol on it. It is located to the left of the parking brake pedal.
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the
secondary hood latch, located near the center of the hood front, by pushing the latch to the right.
3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.
5-11
Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3.5L V6 engine, here is what you will see:
5-12
A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-39.
B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-42. C. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block
on page 5-97.
D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on
page 5-43.
E. Coolant Recovery Tank. See “Checking Coolant”
under Cooling System on page 5-31.
F. Pressure Cap. See Pressure Cap on page 5-28. G. Power Steering Fluid Cap. See Power Steering Fluid
on page 5-38.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
I. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
J. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick (Out of View).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-23.
K. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
under Brakes on page 5-40.
L. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
5-13
When you open the hood on the 3.9L V6 engine, here is what you will see:
5-14
A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-39.
B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-42. C. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block
on page 5-97.
D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on
page 5-43.
E. Coolant Recovery Tank. See “Checking Coolant”
under Cooling System on page 5-31.
F. Pressure Cap. See Pressure Cap on page 5-28. G. Power Steering Fluid Cap. See Power Steering Fluid
on page 5-38.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
I. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
J. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick (Out of View).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-23.
K. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
under Brakes on page 5-40.
L. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
5-15
When you open the hood on the 5.3L V8 engine, here is what you will see:
5-16
Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-39.
B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-42. C. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block
on page 5-97.
D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on
page 5-43.
E. Pressure Cap. See Pressure Cap on page 5-28. F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering
Fluid on page 5-38.
G. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
I. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking
the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-23.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
under Brakes on page 5-40.
K. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
L. Coolant Recovery Tank. See “Checking Coolant”
under Cooling System on page 5-31.
5-17
Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.
When to Add Engine Oil
V6 Engine
V8 Engine
If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-100.
5-18
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M
Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.
(cid:127) SAE 5W-30
As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.
You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.
5-19
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.
If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the
temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is
recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide
easier cold starting and better protection for your engine
at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils
with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard
GM6094M are all you will need for good performance
and engine protection.
Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.
5-20
How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, the system must be reset. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message, do the following procedures: 1. Turn the ignition to RUN, with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly
three times within five seconds. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message flashes, the system is reset. However, if it stays on, it did not reset. Repeat the procedure.
3. Turn the key to OFF. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.
5-21
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The engine air cleaner/filter is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.
5-22
To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter do the following:
1. Lift the filter cover tabs on top of the engine air
cleaner/filter housing.
2. Push the filter cover housing toward the engine. 3. Pull out the filter. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 5. To reinstall the cover, position the tabs through the
hinges on the housing.
6. Push the cover tabs on top of the housing to lock
the cover in place.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can
Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.
Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transaxle Fluid A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving:
5-23
(cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
(cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or
paper towel.
The transaxle fluid dipstick handle is the black loop with this symbol on it. It is located near the rear of the engine compartment.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
5-24
(cid:127) V6 Engines
5.3L V8 Engine 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the
lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way.
How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the
dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.
Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section.
4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way.
5-25
Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating or if you need to add coolant to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 5-29. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature.
Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.
Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.
5-26
(cid:127) {CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
If you use an improper coolant mixture, your
Notice: engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If coolant needs to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer check the cooling system.
If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives
Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information. Checking Coolant
The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on the location of the coolant recovery tank. The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level.
5-27
When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the cold fill line or a little higher. The cold fill line is marked with the same symbol as the coolant recovery tank cap. Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See Engine Overheating on page 5-29.
{CAUTION:
Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.
5-28
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-31. Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.
If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,
Engine Overheating There is a coolant temperature gage and a warning light on the instrument panel that indicate an overheated engine condition. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-33 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-33. In addition, you will find an ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE and an ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE message displayed on the vehicle’s Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46 for more information. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
CAUTION:
(Continued)
If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-31 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.
If your engine catches fire because you keep
Notice: driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-31 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.
5-29
If the overheat warning no longer exists, the vehicle can be driven. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, the vehicle can be driven normally. If the warning continues, and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still there, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.
If an overheat warning occurs without any sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
2. Set the heater at the highest setting and the fan at
the highest speed and open the windows as necessary.
5-30
(cid:127) (cid:127) Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The coolant temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-17.
Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:
3.5L V6 Engine shown, 3.9L V6 Engine similar
A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans
5-31
{CAUTION:
An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. If your vehicle has one of the V6 engines, the coolant recovery tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine, the coolant recovery tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12.
5.3L V8 Engine
A. Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank
5-32
When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the cold fill line on the coolant recovery tank. To check the coolant level, look for the cold fill line on the side of the coolant recovery tank that faces the engine. If the level is not correct, there may be a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.
{CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, the fans should be running. If the fans are not running, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-31 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
5-33
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
When the coolant level in the coolant recovery tank is at the cold fill line, start the vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the system is cool before you do it.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the cold fill line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information. Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.
5-34
{CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System (V6 Engines) Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.
1. You can remove the
pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the cap slowly counterclockwise.
If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap and remove it.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®
coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.
5-35
7. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.
8. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.
9. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
10. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in
the coolant recovery tank should be at the cold fill line when the engine is cold.
4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine
and the compartment.
3.9L V6 Engine shown, 3.5L V6 Engine similar
5. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the cold
fill line.
6. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but
leave the pressure cap off.
5-36
How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System (5.3L V8 Engine) Notice: Your engine has a specific cooling system drain and fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If your engine’s cooling system needs to be drained and re-filled, please see your dealer.
1. You can remove the
pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise.
If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means that there is still some pressure left.
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap and remove it.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
3. Fill the cooling system with the proper DEX-COOL®
coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.
4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine
and the compartment.
5. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the cold
fill line.
6. Install the coolant recovery tank cap and the
pressure cap.
7. If the coolant in the recovery tank is constantly low,
you should have a dealership service department inspect the vehicle for leaks.
5-37
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering fluid reservoir is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment
cool down.
2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a
clean rag.
4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on
the dipstick.
The fluid level should be somewhere within the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
5-38
Windshield Washer Fluid
What to Use
When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read
the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will
be operating your vehicle in an area where the
temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has
sufficient protection against freezing.
Adding Washer Fluid
A WASHER FLUID LOW ADD FLUID message will be
displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC)
when you need to add windshield washer fluid to your
vehicle. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46
for more information.
Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.
Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow
the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.
Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
5-39
(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.
5-40
So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-31. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
{CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-89.
Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.
5-41
(cid:127) For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly.
5-42
Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-43 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or
(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to
ignite.
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
Ignoring these steps could result in costly
Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.
5-43
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.
If you leave your radio or other accessories
Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!
4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose.
5-44
The remote positive (+) terminal is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, on the underhood fuse block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.
To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, remove the fuse block cover. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery.
{CAUTION:
An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−), or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal location of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
5-45
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at
least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If
it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
5-46
If the jumper cables are connected or
Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal and
Remote Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-51. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
Halogen Bulbs
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
5. Return the fuse block cover to its original position. Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if it is difficult to see the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommend that you take the vehicle to your dealer for service.
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
5-47
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps
To replace one of these bulbs, do the following:
1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
2. Remove the screw from the headlamp assembly.
A. Sidemarker B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. High-Beam Headlamp D. Parking/Turn Signal Lamp
5-48
8. Install the electrical connector to the bulb. 9. Install the new bulb by inserting the smallest tab on
the bulb base into the matching notch in the retaining ring. Turn the bulb a quarter-turn clockwise until it stops.
10. Reverse Steps 1 through 5 to reinstall the headlamp
assembly.
3. Remove the headlamp plastic retainer by
pulling it up.
4. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle
and remove the electrical connector.
5. Remove the round dust caps to gain access
to the bulbs.
6. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it from the retaining ring by pulling it away from the headlamp.
7. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by
raising the lock tab and pulling the connector away from the bulb’s base.
When you reinstall the headlamp assembly, make sure to line up the pin in the headlamp assembly with the slot in the vehicle.
5-49
Taillamps, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps
A. Rear Sidemarker Lamp B. Taillamp/Turn Signal
and Stoplamp
C. Taillamp
3. Pull the carpet away from the rear of the vehicle. 4. Remove the two hex nuts. 5. Pull the assembly from the vehicle. 6. Remove the bulb socket. To do so, press the tab,
turn it counterclockwise and pull it out.
7. Pull the old bulb out. Do not twist it. 8. Push the new bulb into the bulb socket. 9. Reverse Steps 1 through 5 to reinstall the taillamp
assembly.
To replace one of these bulbs, do the following:
1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-11 for more
information.
2. Remove the convenience net, if your vehicle has one, and then remove it by unhooking the upper wing nut.
5-50
Back-Up Lamps The back-up lamps are located in the rear bumper.
Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamp
Bulb Number
Back-Up Lamp Front Parking/Turn Signal Lamp Headlamps
High-Beam Low-Beam
Sidemarker Lamp Stoplamps, Taillamps, and Turn Signal Lamp
921
3157
H9
H11
194
3067
For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.
1. Remove the two screws from the back-up lamp
assembly.
2. Pull the assembly from the rear bumper. 3. Remove the socket by turning it counterclockwise
and pull it out.
4. Pull the old bulb straight out. Do not twist it. 5. Push the new bulb into the socket. 6. Push the socket back into the assembly. Tighten
the socket by turning it clockwise.
7. Reinstall the assembly with the two screws.
5-51
Windshield Wiper Blade
Replacement
Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear
or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information on wiper blade inspection.
Replacement blades come in different types and are
removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove
the wiper blade:
1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away from
the windshield.
5-52
2. While holding the wiper arm, pull the clip up from
the blade connecting point, and pull the blade assembly down toward the windshield to remove it from the wiper arm.
3. Install the new wiper blade onto the wiper arm and
snap the clip down into place.
To remove and replace the wiper blade element do the following: 1. The wiper blade element has two notches at one end which are engaged by the bottom claw set of the wiper blade. At the notched end of the wiper blade, pull the wiper blade element from the wiper blade assembly.
2. To replace the element, start at the heel end of the wiper blade, which is the end nearest to the base of the wiper arm, and slide the wiper blade element, notched end last, into the wiper blade claw sets.
3. To engage the last claw into the notched end of the
wiper blade element, squeeze the wiper blade element at the notched area, and push the wiper blade element so the claw fits into the notch.
4. Be sure the two wiper blade element notches are
engaged by the last claw set, and that all the other claws are properly engaged in the slots of the wiper blade element on both sides.
A. Correct Installation B. Incorrect Installation For the proper type and size windshield wiper blades, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13.
5-53
CAUTION:
(Continued)
(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60.
(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut,
punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If
your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.
Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner Manual.
{CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
5-54
Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example
(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.
(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-70.
(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.
5-55
(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.
(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.
(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60.
(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.
(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
Compact Spare Tire Example
(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-85 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-74.
(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.
5-56
Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.
(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.
(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.
(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.
(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and Definitions
Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.
Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.
5-57
Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60.
Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a