which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
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5. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle
clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the spare tire to fit under the vehicle. 6. Remove all wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.
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10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.
9. Replace the wheel
nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.
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11. Tighten the wheel nuts
firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.
NOTICE:
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CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 N·m).
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.
Don’t try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.
NOTICE:
Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.
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Storing the Flat Tire and Tools
CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.
After you’ve put the compact spare tire on your vehicle you’ll need to store the flat tire in your trunk. Use the following procedure to secure the flat tire in the trunk. Put the flat tire in the trunk so the side that faces out when it is on the vehicle is facing down. The full-size tire will not fit down into the well. Place it so the front is in the well and the rear is out of the well.
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Put the bolt through one of the wheel nut holes, install the retainer over the bolt, then install the wing nut. Put the spacer and nut next to the tire in the well. Store the cover as far forward as possible. The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare” in the Index. See the storage instructions label to replace your compact spare into your trunk properly. When you install the wheel cover on the full size tire, tighten the nut caps to 5 lb-ft (7 N·m).
Storing the Spare Tire and Tools
CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.
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1. Nut
2. Cover
3. Wing Nut
4. Spacer
5. Compact Spare Tire
6. Wrench
7. Nut
8. Retainer
9. Jack
10. Bolt
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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.
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NOTICE:
When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.
Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.
NOTICE:
Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.
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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
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NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.
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- NOTES
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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
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Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
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Service Fuel Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Automatic Transaxle Fluid Engine Coolant Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Care of Safety Belts Cleaning Glass Surfaces Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades
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Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Cleaning Aluminum Wheels (If Equipped) Cleaning Tires Finish Damage Underbody Maintenance Chemical Paint Spotting GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Air Conditioning Refrigerants Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts Vehicle Dimensions
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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
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Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.
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CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.
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Fuel Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It is recommended that the gasoline meet specifications which have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and endorsed by the Canadian Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines. For more information, write to: American Automobile Manufacturer’s Association, 7430 Second Ave, Suite 300, Detroit MI 48202. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.
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To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.
NOTICE:
Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.
If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. (See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.) If this occurs, return to your authorized Chevrolet dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Chevrolet dealer for service.
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Fuels in Foreign Countries
If you plan on driving in another country outside the
United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to
find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not
recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs
caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by
your warranty.
To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or
contact a major oil company that does business in the
country where you’ll be driving.
You can also write us at the following address for
advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Filling Your Tank
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CAUTION:
Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.
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The tethered cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.
CAUTION:
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If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.
While refueling, let the cap hang by the tether below the fuel fill opening. To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.
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When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.
NOTICE:
If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.
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Filling a Portable Fuel Container
CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
D Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.
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Checking Things Under the Hood
CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
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Hood Release
To open the hood, first pull the handle located inside the vehicle near the parking brake pedal.
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Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release. Lift the hood.
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When you open the hood on the 3100 (Code M) V6 engine, you’ll see:
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A. Engine Coolant Reservoir B. Radiator Fill Cap C. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir D. Engine Oil Fill Cap E. Engine Oil Dipstick F. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick
G. Brake Fluid Reservoir H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter I. Remote Positive (+) Battery Terminal J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir K. Battery (located under Windshield Washer
Fluid Reservoir)
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When you open the hood on the 3800 (Code K) V6 engine, you’ll see:
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A. Engine Coolant Reservoir B. Radiator Fill Cap C. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Engine Oil Fill Cap F. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick
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G. Brake Fluid Reservoir H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter I. Remote Positive (+) Battery Terminal J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir K. Battery (located under Windshield
Washer Reservoir)
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly.
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Engine Oil
If the LOW OIL light on the instrument panel comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.
For more information, see “Low Oil Level Light” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
3100 (Code M) V6
Engine
3800 (Code K) V6
Engine
The engine oil dipstick handle is the yellow loop near the front of the engine. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
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Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
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When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the lower mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.
NOTICE:
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.
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Engine
The engine oil fill cap is located toward the front of the engine near the yellow-looped engine oil dipstick.
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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.
If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.
If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines. You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:
3100 (Code M) V6
Engine
3800 (Code K) V6
Engine
Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.
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As shown in the chart, if you have the 3100 V6 engine, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.
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As shown in the chart, if you have the 3800 V6 engine, SAE 10W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60_F (16_C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.
NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.
GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for
your vehicle.
If you are in an area where the temperature falls below
-20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide
easier cold starting and better protection for your engine
at extremely low temperatures.
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Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil. This is not based on mileage, but on engine revolutions and engine operating temperature. When the computer has calculated that the oil needs changing, the Oil Life Monitor will indicate that a change is necessary. The mileage between oil changes will vary depending on how you drive your vehicle -- usually between 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and 7,500 miles (12 500 km) since your last oil change. Under severe conditions, the indicator may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Never drive your vehicle more than 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first) without an oil change. The system won’t detect dust in the oil. So, if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner. Remember to reset the CHG OIL SOON Light whenever the oil is changed.
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How to Reset the Oil Life Monitor After changing the engine oil, the system must be reset. With the ignition key in RUN but the engine off, fully push and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times within five seconds. If the CHG OIL SOON light flashes, the system is resetting. Turn the key to OFF then start the vehicle. If the CHG OIL SOON light comes back on, the system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If
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you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
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Pull out the filter. Be sure to install the air filter and install the cover tightly when you are finished. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
To check or replace the air filter, remove the four screws and lift the cover.
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CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
NOTICE:
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.
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Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.
D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
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How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to drive longer.
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Checking the Fluid Level D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
D Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
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Engine
3800 (Code K) V6
Engine
The transaxle fluid dipstick handle is the red loop near the back of the engine. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or
paper towel.
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2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
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Engine
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the
lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way.
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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the
dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.
NOTICE:
We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
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3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as
described under “How to Check.”
4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way.
Radiator Pressure Cap
NOTICE:
Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.
When you replace your radiator pressure cap, an ACDelcoR cap is recommended. Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature.
When you replace your thermostat, an ACDelcoR thermostat is recommended. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating or if you need to add coolant to your radiator, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as
they should.
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NOTICE:
When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.
CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.
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Checking Coolant
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NOTICE:
If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.
NOTICE:
If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the HOT mark or a little higher.
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If this LOW COOLANT light comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.
Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. (See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.)
CAUTION:
Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.
CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
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Power Steering Fluid
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How to Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick.
3100 (Code M) V6
Engine
3800 (Code K) V6
Engine
When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
3100 (Code M) V6 Engine
When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the H mark. When it’s cold, the level should be at the C mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid.
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For the 3800 (Code K) V6
engine, the level should
be at the HOT mark when
the engine compartment is
hot. If the fluid is at the
ADD mark, you should
add fluid.
What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.
3800 (Code K) V6 Engine
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Adding Washer Fluid
Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.
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NOTICE:
D When using concentrated washer fluid,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.
D Fill your washer fluid tank only
three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
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Brakes Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s
side of the engine compartment. It is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in
the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake
fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal
brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid
level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is
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leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.
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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Maintenance Schedule. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
NOTICE:
D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage
brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.
D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.
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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. If you have rear drum brakes, they don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”
Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes if it is equipped with the 3100 engine. It has four-wheel disc brakes if it is equipped with the 3800 engine. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).
CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
NOTICE:
Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.
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Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
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Battery Your new vehicle comes with an ACDelco FreedomR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend an ACDelco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.
CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.
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Bulb Replacement In this section you’ll find directions for changing the bulbs in some of the lamps on your vehicle. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index to find the type of bulb you should use. Halogen Bulbs
CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
Headlamps 1. Open the hood. 2. Press and turn the bulb a quarter-turn
(counterclockwise for the driver’s side; clockwise for the passenger’s side) and remove it from the retaining ring by gently pulling it back and away from the headlamp.
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3. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by
raising the lock tab and pulling the connector away from the bulb’s base.
4. Install the electrical connector to the bulb. 5. Install the new bulb by inserting the smallest tab on
the bulb base into the matching notch in the retaining ring. Turn the bulb a quarter-turn clockwise until it stops.
6. Close the hood.
Front Park and Turn Signal Lamp
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1. Open the hood. There is one flap on each side of
the radiator.
2. Open the flap by lifting the tab.
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3. Position the radiator air side baffle aside and remove
the two fasteners. Remove the snap screw from the fascia.
4. Slide the headlamp assembly inboard to release the
mounting tabs and gently pull the inside of the assembly away from the vehicle.
5. Push the tab on the bulb socket and turn it
counterclockwise. Pull the socket out of the assembly. 6. Remove the bulb from the socket by pulling it out.
Do not twist the bulb. 7. Push in the new bulb. 8. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to replace the assembly.
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Center High-Mounted Stoplamp To reach the center high-mounted stoplamp, you must go through the trunk.
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4. Push the new bulb into the socket and turn
it clockwise.
5. Replace the bulb and socket in the assembly. Tail/Stop/Turn Signal Lamp 1. Open the trunk. Remove the convenience net if you have one. Unhook the net from the upper wing nut.
2. Remove the upper
convenience net wing nut, if equipped.
1. Open the trunk lid. Locate the stoplamp behind the
rear seats, in front of the trunk hinges.
2. Turn the socket counterclockwise until it stops and
pull the bulb and socket out of the assembly.
3. Push in the bulb, turn it counterclockwise and pull it
out of the socket.
3. Pull the carpet away from the rear of the vehicle. 4. Unscrew the two remaining wing nuts. 5. Pull the assembly from the body carefully.
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Back-Up Lamp 1. Open the trunk. The back-up lamp bulbs are in the
rear of the trunk lid.
2. Press the tab on the
socket, turn the socket counterclockwise and pull it out.
3. To remove the bulb, pull it out of the socket. Do not
twist the bulb.
4. Push the new bulb into the socket. 5. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to replace the socket.
6. To remove a socket, press the tab, turn the socket
counterclockwise and pull it out. 7. Pull the bulb out. Do not twist it. 8. Push the new bulb into the socket. 9. Replace the socket in the assembly. 10. Tighten the socket by turning it clockwise. 11. Install the assembly and the two lower wing nuts. 12. Replace the carpeting. 13. Replace the upper (convenience net) wing nut,
if equipped.
14. Replace the convenience net, if equipped.
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Dome Lamp 1. Grasp the front and rear center of the dome lamp
cover at the same time. Then squeeze and pull downward. (To help pry the sides loose, a screwdriver may be used as an aid during this procedure.)
2. Remove the old bulb from the small prongs
extending from the dome lamp base plate; hook the new bulb onto the prongs.
3. To replace the bulb cover, center it over the base
plate, making sure both the cover and the base plate line up properly. Snap the cover firmly into place.
For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your Chevrolet dealer service department.
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
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1. Turn on the wipers to the low wipe setting. 2. Turn off the ignition while the wipers are at the
outer positions of the wiper pattern. The blades are more accessible for removal/replacement while in this position.
3. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from
the windshield.
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4. While holding the wiper arm away from the glass,
push the release clip from under the blade connecting point and pull the blade assembly down toward the glass to remove it from the wiper arm.
5. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm
until you hear the release clip “click” into place.
For wiper blade replacement length and type, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Chevrolet Warranty booklet for details.
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CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.
D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as
overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.
D Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your
tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.
Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label, which is on the inside of the trunk lid, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).
NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy.
NOTICE: (Continued)
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NOTICE: (Continued)
If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards.
When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).
How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
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When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)
Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.
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When It’s Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
D You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep
enough to show cord or fabric.
D The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
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D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.
CAUTION:
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
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Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
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Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original
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equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.
See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.
Used Replacement Wheels
CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.
Tire Chains
NOTICE:
If your vehicle has P225/60R16 size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance.
NOTICE: (Continued)
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NOTICE: (Continued)
Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires. If you have other tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.
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Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.
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Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: D Alcohol D Laundry Soap D Bleach D Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has two cleaners, Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner and Capture Non-Solvent Dry Spot and Soil Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Here are some cleaning tips: D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. D Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. D Carefully scrape off any excess stain.
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D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean
area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.
D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the
entire area immediately or it will set.
Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask
surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.
3. Mix powdered cleaner following the directions on
the container label to form thick suds.
4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t
saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.
5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge
to remove the suds.
6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, damp towel or cloth. 7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.
Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the
soiled area with cool water.
2. If a stain remains, follow the multi-purpose interior
cleaner instructions described earlier.
3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.
4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to
dry completely.
3. If a stain remains, follow instructions for
Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner.
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Fabric Protection Your vehicle has upholstery and carpet fabric that has been treated with Scotchgardt Fabric Protector, a 3M product. It protects fabrics by repelling oil and water, which are the carriers of most stains. Even with this protection, you still need to clean your upholstery and carpet often to keep it looking new. Further information on cleaning is available by calling 1-800-433-3296 (in Minnesota, 1-800-642-6167). Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You
may have to do it more than once.
D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you
don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.
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Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your
dealer for this product.
D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.
D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned
immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.
Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.
Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.
CAUTION:
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.
Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.
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Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon AmiR Powder (non-scratching glass cleaning powder), GM Part No. 1050011. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.
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chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your car by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.
Weatherstrips
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply
silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six
months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent
application may be required. (See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.)
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth
of color, gloss retention and durability.
Washing Your Vehicle
The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to
keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or
cold water.
Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun.
Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or
chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well,
removing all soap residue completely. You can get
GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See
“Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t
use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that
contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be
flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface,
or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean
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NOTICE:
Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.
Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.
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Cleaning Aluminum Wheels (If Equipped) Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on any wheels other than chrome-plated wheels. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.
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Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.
NOTICE:
When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.
Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.
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Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.
Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, Chevrolet will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.
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GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
PART NUMBER
SIZE
DESCRIPTION
USAGE
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994954
1050172
1050173
1050174
1050214
1050427
Polishing Cloth – Wax Treated
23 in. x 25 in. Tar and Road Oil Remover 16 oz. (0.473 L) Chrome Cleaner and Polish 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) White Sidewall Tire Cleaner 32 oz. (0.946 L) 23 oz. (0.680 L)
Vinyl Cleaner Glass Cleaner
1052918**
8 oz. (0.237 L)
Armor Allt Protectant
Exterior polishing cloth
Removes tar, road oil and asphalt
Use on chrome, stainless steel, nickel, copper and brass
Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops
Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints
Protects leather, wood, acrylics, Plexiglast, plastic,
rubber and vinyl
1052925
16 oz. (0.473 L)
Multi-Purpose Interior
Cleaner
Cleans carpets, seats, interior trim, door panels
and floor mats
Capture Dry Spot Remover
2.5 sq. ft.
Wheel Cleaner
16 oz. (0.473 L) 8 oz. (0.237 L)
1052929
1052930
12345721
12345725
12377964*
12377966*
12377984*
See your General Motors Parts Department for these products.
See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
12 oz. (0.354 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L)
Synthetic Chamois Silicone Tire Shine
Finish Enhancer
Surface Cleaner
Cleaner Wax
Spray on and rinse with water
Attracts, absorbs and removes soils on fabric
Shines vehicle without scratching
Spray on tire shine
Removes dust, fingerprints and surface contaminants Removes light scratches and oxidation and protects finish
Removes contaminants, blemishes and swirl marks
* For exterior use only. **Not recommended for use on instrument panels.
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Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.
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Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This