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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 367 for more information.


If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and ifyou turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


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{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and


Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


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1. You can remove the


coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.


Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly,


and remove it.


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Power Steering Fluid


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 352 for reservoir location.


3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the


proper mixture, to the FULL COLD mark on the front of the surge tank. Wait about five minutes, then check to see if the level is below the FULL COLD mark. If the level is below the FULL COLD mark, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the mark. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the FULL COLD mark for at least five minutes.


4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off,


start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the FULL COLD mark, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


See your dealer, if necessary.


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The fluid level should be within the crosshatched area on the dipstick. If the fluid is at or below the ADD mark on the dipstick, add just enough fluid to bring the level within the crosshatched area. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 469. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


When to Check Power Steering Fluid Power steering fluid is used in all vehicles with V6 engines. Vehicles with the 4-cylinder engine have electric power steering and do not use power steering fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless a leak is suspected in the system, or an unusual noise is heard. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine


compartment cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the


reservoir clean.


3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the


fluid level on the dipstick


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Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer


fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.


(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only


three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in


your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer fluid reservoir is low, a LOW WASHER FLUID message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 222
for more information.


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 352
for reservoir location.


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Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 352 for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.


So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If your vehicle has too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 207.


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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 469. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 440.


(cid:127)


Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and may have rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


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{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately.


Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts.


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If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 352 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 384 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


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{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


or ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in


Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a


12-volt battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a


Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper


cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


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Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find


the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 352 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


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{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


{CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery.


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7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect


it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. If the security light flashes, wait until the light stops flashing.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery


and run the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead


battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


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If the jumper cables are connected or


Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from


the vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from


the vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery


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Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps


A. High-Beam Headlamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp/DRL C. Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp


Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 394. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


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To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on


page 350 for more information.


2. Remove the two bolts attaching the headlamp


assembly to the vehicle.


3. Remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle by pulling it forward. Use care not to scratch the vehicle with the lamp or the lamp with the fender.


4. Remove the dust covers (A, B, or C) from the


individual bulb sockets.


5. Disconnect the wiring harness, then turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it.


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6. Remove the bulb


from the bulb socket.


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps


To replace one of these bulbs, do the following:


7. Replace the old bulb with a new bulb. 8. Turn the bulb socket clockwise and reconnect


the wiring harness to the bulb socket.


9. Return the headlamp assembly to its original


position. Be sure to line up the holes in the lamp assembly to the round ends of the mounting pins.


10. Reinstall the two bolts attaching the headlamp


assembly to the vehicle.


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A. Taillamp B. Back-Up Lamp C. Taillamp/Stoplamp/Turn Signal Lamp


1. Open the trunk or liftgate. See Trunk (Sedan) on page 112 or Liftgate (MAXX) on page 113
for more information.


2. Remove the two fasteners located on the inside of the trunk at the rear of the vehicle.


6. Pull the bulb to


remove it from the socket. Replace the old bulb with a new one.


3. Pull back the trunk trim. 4. Remove the plastic wing nut. 5. Pull out the taillamp assembly and turn the


bulb socket one quarter turn counterclockwise.


7. Reverse the steps to attach the taillamp


assembly to the vehicle. When securing the lamp assembly back into place, align the assembly so that the trunk lid doesn’t contact it.


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License Plate Lamp To replace the license plate lamp bulb, do the following:


4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the


lamp assembly.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp


Back-Up Lamp Front Parking/Turn Signal Lamp License Plate Lamp Headlamps


High-Beam Low-Beam/DRL


Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp * Malibu SS **Malibu MAXX


Bulb Number 921
3157KX *W5W, **168


H9
H11


3057


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.


1. Remove the two screws holding the license


plate lamp assembly to the fascia.


2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward


through the fascia opening.


3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and


pull the bulb straight out of the socket.


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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 460. To replace the wiper blade, do the following: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the


windshield.


2. Press the tab that holds the wiper blade to


the arm.


3. Pull the assembly down to release it from the U-hooked end of the wiper arm and slide the assembly away from the arm.


4. Slide in the new wiper blade assembly and


snap it into place.


5. Repeat Steps 1 through 4 for the other wiper,


if necessary.


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Rear Wiper Blade Replacement – MAXX To replace the rear wiper blade, do the following: 1. Pull the wiper blade assembly away from


the window.


2. Pull the wiper blade out of the wiper blade


assembly, as shown.


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3. Hold the wiper blade refill with the curved side


facing downward.


4. Remove clip (A), shown in step 3, and slide it


into the claw of the wiper blade assembly.


5. Remove clip (B), shown in step 3, and slide it


into the remaining claw of the wiper blade assembly.


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CAUTION:


(Continued)


injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 407.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


See High-Speed Operation on page 408 for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly


used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 322.


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same


danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious (Continued)


CAUTION:


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Low-Profile Performance Tire If your vehicle has P225/50R18 or P225/50R17
size tires, they are classified as low-profile performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-profile performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your GM warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.


If your vehicle has low-profile tires,


Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. All season tires provide good overall performance on most surfaces but they may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. Winter tires, in general, are designed for increased traction on snow and ice covered roads. With winter tires, there may be decreased dry road traction, increased road noise, and shorter tread life. After switching to winter tires, be alert for changes in vehicle handling and braking. See your dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 411.


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If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on


all four wheel positions.


(cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load


range, and speed rating as the original equipment tires.


Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, Y, and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.


Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.


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Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example


(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.


(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 414.


(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


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(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 407.


(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.


Compact Spare Tire Example


(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 435 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 418.


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(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


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Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).


Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.


Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.


Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.


Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 407.


Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.


DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.


GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 322.


GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 322.


GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 322.


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Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.


Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.


Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.


Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.


Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.


Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.


Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 322.


Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.


Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.


Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 407 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 322.


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Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.


Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.


Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.


Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.


Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.


Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 410.


UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 414.


Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 322.


Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.


Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 322.


406


Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards


A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 322. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 435.


407


How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


High-Speed Operation


{CAUTION:


Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.


Set the cold tire inflation pressure to 35 psi (241 kPa) for the front and rear tires, when operating your vehicle at high-speed conditions.


408


When you end high-speed driving return the tires to the cold inflation pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 322 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 407.


Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 410
and Wheel Replacement on page 415 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 460.


When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label.


409


When It Is Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 455.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 418.


410


You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more


places around the tire.


(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through


the tire’s rubber.


(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or


snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.


(cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage


that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires.


411


GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 400 for additional information.


{CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes,


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 435.


{CAUTION:


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


412


If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 322, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle.


Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.


{CAUTION:


If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.


See Buying New Tires on page 411 and Accessories and Modifications on page 342 for additional information.


413


Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.


414


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.


Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.


415


If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.


Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 418 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels


{CAUTION:


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


416


Tire Chains


{CAUTION:


If your vehicle has P215/60R16, P225/50R17, or P225/50R18 size tires, do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your vehicle’s wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.


If your vehicle has P205/65R15 size


Notice: tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class S-type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


417


If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.


418


{CAUTION:


Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.


If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your vehicle’s hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 170 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart


while the vehicle is raised.


4. Do not allow passengers to remain in


the vehicle.


To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.


When your vehicle has a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.


The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire.


419


Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you will need is in the trunk or cargo area. 1. Open the trunk for sedan models. See Trunk


(Sedan) on page 112 for more information. For MAXX models, open the liftgate. See Liftgate (MAXX) on page 113.


2. For the sedan, lift the handle on the spare tire


cover. The handle may hook on the trunk front edge weatherstrip to hold the cover out of the way. For the MAXX, lift the handle to release the latch on the spare tire cover.


3. For the MAXX, lift and remove the cover.


420


4. Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and


remove it. Then remove the compact spare tire. See Compact Spare Tire on page 435 for more information.


5. Remove the wing nut holding the jack


in place.


6. Remove the extension bolt (MAXX models and Sedan SS only) that is clipped to the jack. You will need this later to store the flat tire.


7. Remove the jack and wheel wrench from the


trunk or cargo area.


Tire Changing Tools


Sedan shown, MAXX Models and Sedan SS similar The tools you will be using include the wheel wrench (A) and jack (B). The MAXX and all SS models include an additional extension.


1. Turn the plastic wing nut counterclockwise to


loosen wheel wrench.


2. Unhook the wheel wrench from the jack.


421


Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. If your vehicle has a wheel cover or hubcap that has plastic wheel nut caps, loosen the plastic nut caps. You might need to use the wheel wrench to loosen them. Do not pry off wheel covers or center caps that have plastic wheel nut caps.


2. Remove the wheel cover or center cap from


the wheel to locate the wheel nuts. If your vehicle has a wheel cover or hubcap without plastic wheel nut caps, gently pry on the edge of the plastic wheel trim to remove it from the wheel to locate the wheel nuts.


3. Extend the handle on the wheel wrench by


pressing the button with your index finger and pulling on the end of the wrench. You must do this before using the wheel wrench.


422


3. Use the wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts.


Do not remove them yet.


4. It is recommended that you do a safety check


before preceding. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 418 for more information.


5. Position the lift head at the jack location nearest the flat tire. Make sure all of the jack lift head is touching the jacking flange under the body. Do not place the jack under a body panel. The lower body panel has an arrow to aid in locating the jacking location.


423


6. Put the compact spare tire near the flat tire


being changed.


{CAUTION:


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


{CAUTION:


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.


424


7. Raise the vehicle by turning the wrench


clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit.


8. Remove all of the


wheel nuts.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


9. Remove the flat tire.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel,


CAUTION:


(Continued)


remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.


10. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.


425


11. Install the compact spare tire.


{CAUTION:


Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.


12. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded


end toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand or with the wrench until the wheel is held against the hub.


426


13. Lower the vehicle by turning the wrench


counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


{CAUTION:


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 455
for wheel nut torque specification.


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can


Notice: lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 455 for the wheel nut torque specification.


14. Tighten the wheel


nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence, as shown, with the wheel wrench.


Notice: Wheel covers will not fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare. Do not try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It will not fit. Store the wheel cover and wheel nut caps in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.


427


Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools (Sedan) Storing a Flat Tire and Tools


{CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


428


To store the flat tire and tools in the compact spare tire compartment, do the following:


A. Cover B. Wing Nut C. Jack and Wheel


D. Flat Tire (Valve


Stem down)


E. Bolt


Wrench


1. Open the trunk. See Trunk (Sedan) on


page 112 for more information.


2. Remove the center cap from the wheel. 3. Place the tire (D) in the compartment, valve stem up, with the bolt (E) extending through the wheel center hole.


4. Place the jack and wheel wrench (D) over the


bolt (E), inside the wheel.


5. Secure by tightening the larger wing nut (B)


onto the bolt (E).


6. Reinstall the tire cover (A). Storing the Compact Spare Tire The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Store the compact spare tire and tools as shown in the following diagram.


A. Cover B. Retainer C. Spare Tire D. Wing Nut


E. Jack and Wheel


Wrench


F. Bolt


The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See Compact Spare Tire on page 435.


429


Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools (Sedan SS)


{CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


Storing the Flat Tire and Tools To store the flat tire and jack in the compact spare tire compartment, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk (Sedan) on


page 112 for more information.


2. Remove the bolt extension (in the yellow


sleeve) from the jack and remove the center cap from the wheel.


430


3. Place the jack over the bolt (B) on the floor,


making sure it contacts the bolt as shown. 4. With the yellow cap in place to prevent the wheel from being scratched, place the bolt extension (A) onto the bolt (B).


5. Thread the small wing nut (C) until it is at or


near the end of the threads.


6. Place the flat tire in the compartment, valve


stem up.


7. Reach under the wheel and lift the bolt


extension (A) so that the threaded end of the bolt passes through the center hole of the wheel.


8. Remove the yellow cap. 9. Secure the tire and wheel with the retainer. 10. Re-install the cover.


A. Cover B. Retainer C. Flat Tire D. Wing Nut


E. Bolt Extension F. Jack and Wheel


Wrench


G. Bolt


431


Storing the Compact Spare Tire The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Store the compact spare tire and tools as shown in the following diagram.


Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools (All MAXX Models)


{CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


A. Cover B. Retainer C. Flat Tire D. Wing Nut


E. Jack, Wheel


Wrench and Bolt Extension


F. Bolt


The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See Compact Spare Tire on page 435. 432


Storing the Flat Tire and Tools To store the flat tire and jack in the compact spare tire compartment, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate (MAXX) on


page 113 for more information.


2. Remove the bolt extension (in the yellow


sleeve) from the jack and remove the center cap from the wheel.


3. Place the jack over the bolt (B) on the floor,


making sure it contacts the bolt as shown.


4. Install the bracket (D) and then the bolt


extension (A).


5. Secure the jack, bracket and bolt extension


with the wing nut (C) provided.


6. With the valve stem up, place the tire on the


compartment floor with the rear of the tire beneath the trim panel (tire may not lay completely flat).


7. Make sure the bolt extension (A) passes


through the wheel center.


8. Remove the plug from the center hole of the


floor cover by pressing on the tabs on the bottom of the cover.


9. Remove the yellow cap from the bolt


extension.


10. Fold the rear flap of the cover up and place the


cover on top of the wheel. The extension will come through the center hole in the cover.


11. Secure the tire and wheel with the retainer.


433


Storing the Compact Spare Tire and Tools The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Store the compact spare tire and tools as shown in the following diagram.


A. Retainer B. Cover C. Flat Tire (Valve


Stem Up)


D. Nut


E. Bolt Extension F. Bracket G. Jack and Wheel


Wrench


H. Bolt


434


A. Cover B. Retainer C. Spare Tire D. Wing Nut E. Bracket


F. Jack, Wheel


Wrench and Bolt Extension


G. Bolt


The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See Compact Spare Tire on page 435.


Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when the vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on the vehicle, stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have the full-size tire repaired or replaced at your convenience. Of course, it is best to replace the spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible. The spare tire will last longer and be in good shape in case it is needed again.


Notice: When the compact spare is installed, do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Do not use the compact spare on other vehicles. And do not mix the compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They will not fit. Keep the spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains will not fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Do not use tire chains on your compact spare.


435


Appearance Care


Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior.


If you use abrasive cleaners when


When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners specifically designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. Notice: cleaning glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the integrated radio antenna and the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles.


436


Your dealer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. Should it become necessary, you can also obtain a product from your dealer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery. Do not clean your vehicle using the following cleaners or techniques: (cid:127) Never use a knife or any other sharp object to


remove a soil from any interior surface.


(cid:127) Never use a stiff brush. It can cause damage


to your vehicle’s interior surfaces. (cid:127) Never apply heavy pressure or rub


aggressively with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage your interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal.


(cid:127) Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps. Avoid


laundry detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide.


(cid:127) Do not heavily saturate your upholstery while


cleaning.


(cid:127) Damage to your vehicle’s interior may result from the use of many organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc.


Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats. For soils, always try to remove them first with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques: (cid:127) For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a


paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed.


(cid:127) For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible


and then vacuum.


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Leather A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used. Allow the leather to dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. Never use steam to clean leather. Never use spot lifters or spot removers on leather. Many commercial leather cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect leather may permanently change the appearance and feel of your leather and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Never use shoe polish on your leather.


To clean, use the following instructions: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with


water or club soda.


2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently


rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled.


4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the


cleaning cloth remains clean.


5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water.


If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a small hidden area for colorfastness first. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface.

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