following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. (cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth.
See Tires on page 398.
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Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: (cid:127) Know the best way to get to where you are
going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.
(cid:127) Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross
most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 311.
(cid:127) Treat a green light as a warning signal.
A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.
City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.
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Freeway Driving
Mile for mile, freeways — also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.
The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass.
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Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your blind spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They will be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir
full? Are all windows clean inside and outside?
(cid:127) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? (cid:127) Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you
checked all levels?
(cid:127) Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses
clean?
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What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: (cid:127) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with
a comfortably cool interior.
(cid:127) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.
(cid:127)
(cid:127) Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?
(cid:127) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather
outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?
(cid:127) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as highway hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured.
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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (cid:127) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system, and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.
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(cid:127) Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.
(cid:127) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.
(cid:127) You may see highway signs on mountains that
warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
(cid:127) Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.
(cid:127) Know how to go uphill. Drive in the highest gear
possible.
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Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You may want to put winter emergency
supplies in your trunk.
Also see Tires on page 398.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.
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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very careful.
What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Unless you have the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS), you will want to brake very gently, too. If you do have ABS, see Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 293. This system improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Whether you have ABS or not, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without ABS, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can.
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Remember, unless you have ABS, if you brake so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you will just slide. Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer. (cid:127) Whatever your braking system, allow greater
following distance on any slippery road.
(cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be
fine until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: (cid:127) Turn on your hazard flashers. (cid:127) Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police
that you have been stopped by the snow.
(cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around
you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged.
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You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck,
you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not
want to spin your wheels too fast. The method
known as rocking can help you get out when you
are stuck, but you must use caution.
If your vehicle has a traction system, the traction
system can often help to free a stuck vehicle.
See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 296
or Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 297.
If the stuck condition is too severe for the
traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction
system off and use the rocking method.
320
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Notice: Spinning the wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting the transaxle back and forth, you can destroy the transaxle. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 321. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 417.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around the front wheels. If your vehicle has a traction system, you should turn the traction system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 296 or Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 297. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it may need to be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 328.
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Tire and Loading Information Label
Label Example
A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker).
Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
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The Tire and Loading Information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 398 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 407. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle; see “Certification Label” later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined
weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX pounds” on your vehicle placard.
2. Determine the combined weight of the driver
and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver
and passengers from XXX kilograms or XXX pounds.
4. The resulting figure equals the available
amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
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5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.
6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load
from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer on page 331 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.
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Example 1
Item
Description
Total
Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
300 lbs (136 kg)
700 lbs (317 kg)
Example 2
Example 3
Item
Description
Total
Item
Description
Total
Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
750 lbs (340 kg)
250 lbs (113 kg)
Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
0 lbs (0 kg)
Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.
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Certification Label
And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
A vehicle specific Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door, tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle.
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CAUTION:
(Continued)
(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like
suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child
restraint in your vehicle.
(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down
unless you need to.
If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.
{CAUTION:
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.
(cid:127) Put things in the trunk or rear area of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly. If you have fold-down rear seats, you will find four anchors on the back wall of your trunk. You can use these anchors to tie down lighter loads. They are not strong enough for heavy things, however, so put them as far forward as you can in the trunk or rear area.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
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Towing
Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 484. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).
328
With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicle can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing”, following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.
(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment?
(cid:127)
See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 312.
Dinghy Towing The Malibu Sedan SS and Maxx SS cannot be dinghy towed. For vehicles that can be dinghy towed, follow these steps:
1. Position the vehicle to tow and then secure it. 2. Turn the ignition switch to OFF. 3. Set the parking brake.
4. To prevent your battery from draining while the
vehicle is being towed, remove the following fuse from the instrument panel fuse block: IGN SENSOR. See Instrument Panel Fuse Block on page 447 for more information.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ACC. 6. Shift your transaxle to NEUTRAL (N). 7. Release the parking brake. Remember to install the fuses once you reach your destination. To reinstall a fuse, do the following: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Remove the key from the ignition switch. 3. Reinstall the fuse. Notice: towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
If you exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while
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Dolly Towing To tow your vehicle with a dolly and two wheels on the ground, follow these steps:
Notice: Towing your vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from the rear.
330
1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing.
5. Release the parking brake.
Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
If you have a Malibu Sedan SS or a Maxx SS, trailer towing is not recommended. Your vehicle was neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer.
Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with a 3.5L V6 engine and the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:127) There are many different laws, including speed
limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.
(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. You can ask a
hitch dealer about sway controls.
(cid:127) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first
1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.
(cid:127) Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that
you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
(cid:127) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.
the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue
Three important considerations have to do with weight: (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
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When towing a trailer on long uphill grades while the outside temperature is above 85°F (29°C), reduce your vehicle speed to 45 mph (72 km/h) to avoid overheating the engine cooling system. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:
Chevrolet Customer Assistance
P.O. Box 33170
Detroit, MI 48232-5170
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying
that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 322 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 322. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:127) The rear bumper on your vehicle is not
intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
(cid:127) Will you have to make any holes in the body
of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 138. Dirt and water can, too.
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Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. And because you may have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both systems won’t work well, or at all.
Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.
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Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need additional wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades When towing a trailer on long uphill grades while the outside temperature is above 85°F (29°C), reduce your vehicle speed to 45 mph (72 km/h) to avoid overheating the engine cooling system. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. Pay attention to the engine coolant gage. If the indicator is in the red area, turn off the air conditioning to reduce engine load. See Engine Overheating on page 370.
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Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release
the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
337
Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 370.
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you: (cid:127) start your engine, (cid:127) shift into a gear, and (cid:127)
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the
chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
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Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Service ........................................................ 342
Accessories and Modifications ................... 342
California Proposition 65 Warning .............. 343
Doing Your Own Service Work .................. 343
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle .......................................... 344
Fuel ............................................................. 344
Gasoline Octane ........................................ 344
Gasoline Specifications .............................. 345
California Fuel ........................................... 345
Additives ................................................... 345
Fuels in Foreign Countries ........................ 346
Filling the Tank ......................................... 347
Filling a Portable Fuel Container ............... 349
Checking Things Under
the Hood .................................................. 350
Hood Release ........................................... 350
Engine Compartment Overview .................. 352
Engine Oil ................................................. 357
Engine Oil Life System .............................. 360
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ............................ 362
Automatic Transaxle Fluid (2.2L L4
and 3.5L V6 Engines) ............................ 363
Automatic Transaxle Fluid
(3.9L V6 Engine) .................................... 364
Engine Coolant .......................................... 367
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ............ 370
Engine Overheating ................................... 370
Overheated Engine Protection Operating
Mode (3.5L V6 and 3.9L V6 Engines) .... 372
Cooling System ......................................... 373
Power Steering Fluid ................................. 378
Windshield Washer Fluid ........................... 380
Brakes ...................................................... 381
Battery ...................................................... 384
Jump Starting ............................................ 384
Bulb Replacement ....................................... 390
Halogen Bulbs ........................................... 390
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and
Parking Lamps ....................................... 390
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Back-up Lamps ...................................... 392
License Plate Lamp ................................... 394
Replacement Bulbs ................................... 394
339
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ....... 395
Tires ............................................................ 398
Winter Tires .............................................. 399
Tire Sidewall Labeling ............................... 400
Tire Terminology and Definitions ............... 404
Inflation - Tire Pressure ............................. 407
High-Speed Operation ............................... 408
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...................... 409
When It Is Time for New Tires .................. 410
Buying New Tires ...................................... 411
Different Size Tires and Wheels ................ 413
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 414
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 415
Wheel Replacement .................................. 415
Tire Chains ............................................... 417
If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 418
Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 418
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 420
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing
the Spare Tire ....................................... 422
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and
Tools (Sedan) ........................................ 428
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and
Tools (Sedan SS) .................................. 430
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and
Tools (All MAXX Models) ....................... 432
Compact Spare Tire .................................. 435
Appearance Care ........................................ 436
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 436
Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 437
Leather ...................................................... 438
Ultra Lux Suede ........................................ 439
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other
Plastic Surfaces ..................................... 439
Care of Safety Belts .................................. 440
Weatherstrips ............................................ 440
Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 440
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 441
Finish Care ............................................... 441
Windshield and Wiper Blades .................... 441
Aluminum Wheels ...................................... 442
Tires ......................................................... 443
Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 443
Finish Damage .......................................... 443
340
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Underbody Maintenance ............................ 443
Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 444
Vehicle Identification .................................. 445
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ........... 445
Service Parts Identification Label ............... 446
Electrical System ........................................ 446
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 446
Headlamp Wiring ....................................... 446
Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 446
Power Windows and Other Power
Options .................................................. 447
Fuses ........................................................ 447
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..................... 447
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ............... 450
Rear Compartment Fuse Block .................. 452
Capacities and Specifications .................... 455
341
Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.
342
California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.
Doing Your Own Service Work
{CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,
and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 497.
343
Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 90. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 473.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.
Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep your engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, GM recommends the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.
Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.
344
Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 345 for additional information.
California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 212. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis.
If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems.
345
Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT.
General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer for service.
Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.
346
Filling the Tank
{CAUTION:
Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.
The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. To open the door, insert your finger into the finger depression next to the fuel door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.
347
{CAUTION:
If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 440. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 212.
348
The CHECK GAS CAP message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 222 for more information.
{CAUTION:
If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to
Notice: get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 212.
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
CAUTION:
(Continued)
{CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
To help avoid injury to you and others:
(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside
a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.
(cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping
gasoline.
349
Checking Things Under the Hood
Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:
1. Pull the hood
release handle with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle to the left of the steering column.
{CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
350
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push
the secondary hood release handle toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.
3. Lift the hood. 4. Release the hood prop rod from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot marked with an arrow.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) above the vehicle and release it to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the procedure if necessary.
351
Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.2L L4 engine, here is what you will see:
352
A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 362.
B. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 357.
C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” under Engine Oil on page 357.
D. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling
System on page 373.
E. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 381.
F. Battery. See Battery on page 384. G. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 450.
H. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 380.
353
When you open the hood on the 3.5L V6 engine, here is what you will see:
354
A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 362.
F. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap. See
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 370
B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped).
See Power Steering Fluid on page 378
C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” under Engine Oil on page 357.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 357.
E. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling
System on page 373.
G. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
under Brakes on page 381.
H. Battery. See Battery on page 384. I. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 450.
J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 380.
355
When you open the hood on the 3.9L V6 engine, here is what you will see:
356
A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 362.
B. Engine Coolant Bleed Valve. See Cooling
System on page 373
C. Power Steering Fluid. See Power Steering
Fluid on page 378.
D. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick (Out of
View). See “Checking Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid (2.2L L4 and 3.5L V6 Engines) on page 363 or Automatic Transaxle Fluid (3.9L V6 Engine) on page 364.
E. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add
Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 357.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 357.
G. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling
System on page 373.
H. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap. See
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 370
I. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
under Brakes on page 381.
J. Battery. See Battery on page 384.
K. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 380.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 450.
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time
you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading,
the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be
on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 352
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil
several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down and check the level.
357
When to Add Engine Oil
L4 Engine
V6 Engine
358
If the oil is below the MIN mark for the L4 engine or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick for the V6 engine, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 455. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 352 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
(cid:127) SAE 5W-30
As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
359
Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M
Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.
You should look for this information on the oil
container, and use only those oils that are
identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and
have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil
container.
Notice: Use only engine oil identified as
meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing
the American Petroleum Institute Certified
For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure
to use the recommended oil can result in
engine damage not covered by your warranty.
GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements
for your vehicle.
If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the
temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is
recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will
provide easier cold starting and better protection
for the engine at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended
oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM
Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good
performance and engine protection.
Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 222. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level.
360
If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, reset the system by performing the following steps: 1. Display OIL LIFE RESET on the DIC. 2. Press and hold the ENTER button for at least
one second. An ACKNOWLEDGED display message will appear for three seconds or until the next button is pressed. This will tell you the system has been reset.
3. Turn the key to OFF.
If the CHANGE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.
361
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 352
for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.
362
When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 460 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws that hold the cover on. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Lift off the cover. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the
cover and reconnect the electrical connector.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
Notice: If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.
Automatic Transaxle Fluid (2.2L L4 and 3.5L V6 Engines) It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 463, and be sure to use the transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 469. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 469.
363
Automatic Transaxle Fluid (3.9L V6 Engine) When to Check and Change Automatic Transaxle Fluid A good time to check the automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 463, and be sure to use the transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 469. How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above
90°F (32°C).
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
(cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. (cid:127) (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.
364
Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift
lever in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the
shift lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three to
five minutes.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transaxle fluid dipstick handle has this symbol on it, and is located near the rear of the engine compartment.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 352
for more information on location.
1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean
rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds
and then pull it back out again.
365
How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 469. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.
Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 469.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the
lower level. The fluid level must be in the crosshatched area.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range,
push the dipstick back in all the way.
366
3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section.
4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push
the dipstick back in all the way.
Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains the cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 370.
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to
−34°F (−37°C).
(cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as they
should.
Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
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If you use an improper coolant mixture,
Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check the cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 469 for more information.
If you use extra inhibitors and/or
What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Yourvehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. Withplain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
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Checking Coolant
The engine coolant surge tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 352 for more information on location.
{CAUTION:
Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark or slightly higher.
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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. If the surge tank is empty, a special fill procedure is necessary. See Engine Overheating on page 370 and Cooling System on page 373.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.
If the pressure cap is not tightly
Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage as well as an engine coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 212 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 211.
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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
If your engine catches fire because
Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in
NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest
fan speed and open the windows as necessary.
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If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (3.5L V6 and 3.9L V6 Engines) This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 357.
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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:
{CAUTION:
An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.
3.5L V6 Engine shown, 2.2L L4 and 3.9L V6 Engines
similar
A. Electric Engine Cooling Fans B. Engine Coolant Surge Tank C. Pressure Cap
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Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark on the front of the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.
{CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service.
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