2005 Chevrolet Malibu Owners Manual

Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark or slightly higher. If the LOW COOLANT message is displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC), it means you are low on engine coolant. Have the system serviced by a technician as soon as possible. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50 for more information.

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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. If the surge tank is empty, a special fill procedure is necessary. See Engine Overheating on page 5-24 and Cooling System on page 5-26.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.

Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.

Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage as well as an engine coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-39 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-38. You will also find a LOW COOLANT warning message displayed on your Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

If your engine catches fire because you

Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a LOW COOLANT message, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning with no LOW COOLANT message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the windows as necessary.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

3.5L V6 engine shown; 2.2L L4 engine similar

A. Electric Engine Cooling Fans B. Engine Coolant Surge Tank

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{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark on the front of the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-22 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they (Continued)

CAUTION:

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

1. You can remove the

coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about two or two and one-half turns.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture, to the FULL COLD mark on the front of the surge tank. Wait about five minutes, then check to see if the level is below the FULL COLD mark. If the level is below the FULL COLD mark, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the mark. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the FULL COLD mark for at least five minutes.

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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the FULL COLD mark, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

See your dealer, if necessary.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

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Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-36.

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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-74.

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(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and may have rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.

Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location.

Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-35 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-114.

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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

or ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

If you leave your radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

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4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

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5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect

it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

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8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. If the security light flashes, wait until the light stops flashing.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

If the jumper cables are removed in the

Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

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Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-44. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Headlamps

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

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A. High-Beam Headlamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp/DRL 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11

for more information.

2. Remove the two bolts attaching the headlamp

assembly to the vehicle.

3. Remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle

by pulling it forward. Use care not to scratch the vehicle with the lamp or the lamp with the fender.

4. Remove the rubber covers from the individual

sockets.

5. Unclip the wiring

harness and twist the socket less than one-quarter turn counterclockwise and remove it.

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6. Remove the bulb from

the socket. Replace the old bulb with a new bulb.

Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps 1. Open the trunk. See Hood Release on page 5-11

for more information.

7. Turn the socket back into place and reconnect the

wiring harness to the socket.

8. Return the lamp assembly to its original position. Be sure to line up the holes in the lamp assembly to the round ends of the mounting pins.

9. Reinstall the two bolts attaching the headlamp

assembly to the vehicle.

A. Taillamp B. Back-Up Lamp C. Taillamp/Stoplamp/Turn Signal Lamp

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2. Remove the

two fasteners located on the inside of the trunk at the rear of the vehicle.

6. Pull the bulb to remove

it from the socket. Replace the old bulb with a new one.

3. Pull back the trunk trim. 4. Remove the plastic wing nut. 5. Pull out the taillamp assembly and turn the bulb

socket one quarter turn counterclockwise.

7. Reverse the steps to attach the taillamp assembly

to the vehicle. When securing the lamp assembly back into place, align the assembly so that the trunk lid doesn’t contact it.

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Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Back-Up Front Parking/Turn Signal Lamp Headlamps

High-Beam Low-Beam

Taillamp/Stoplamp/Turn Signal Lamp

Bulb Number 921
3157KX

H-9
H-11

3057

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. To replace the wiper blade, do the following: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the

windshield.

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2. Press the tab that holds the wiper blade to the arm. 3. Pull the assembly down to release it from the U-hooked end of the wiper arm and slide the assembly away from the arm.

4. Slide in the new wiper blade assembly and snap it

into place.

5. Repeat Steps 1 through 4 for the other wiper, if

necessary.

Rear Wiper Blade Replacement To replace the rear wiper blade, do the following: 1. Pull the wiper blade assembly away from the

window.

2. Pull the wiper blade out of the wiper blade

assembly, as shown.

3. Hold the wiper blade refill with the curved side

facing downward.

4. Remove clip A, shown above, and slide it into the

claw of the wiper blade assembly.

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{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If

your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

5. Remove clip B, shown above, and slide it into the

remaining claw of the wiper blade assembly.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.

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Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-57. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

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(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-73
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-61.

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Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kiloPascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

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Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.

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GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

KiloPascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.

Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-55.

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-57.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

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Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading

(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry.

5-52

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-73. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-55 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-58 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.

5-54

Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-93.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-62.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires your vehicle needs, look at the tire and loading information label. For more information about this label and its location on your vehicle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, GM recommends that you get tires with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, load range, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

5-56

{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-73.

{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.

If you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

5-58

Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-62 for more information.

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If your vehicle has P205/65R15 size tires,

Notice: use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has P215/60R16 size tires, don’t use tire chains, there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.

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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

{CAUTION:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart

while the vehicle is raised.

4. Do not allow passengers to remain in

the vehicle.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

5-62

CAUTION:

(Continued)

To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

When you have a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.

The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire.

Tire Changing Tools

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk. 1. For the sedan model, lift the handle on the spare

tire cover. The handle may hook on the trunk front edge weatherstrip to hold the cover out of the way. For the MAXX model, lift the handle to release the latch on the spare tire cover.

2. Lift and remove the cover.

Sedan Model shown, MAXX Model similar

The tools you’ll be using include the wrench (A) and jack (B). The MAXX model includes an additional extension.

3. Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and remove it. Then remove the compact spare tire. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-73.

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1. Turn the plastic wing nut counterclockwise to

loosen wheel wrench.

2. Unhook the wheel wrench from the jack.

3. Extend the handle on the wheel wrench by pressing the button with your index finger and pulling on the end of the wrench. You must do this before using the wheel wrench.

5-64

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. If your vehicle has a wheel cover or hubcap that has plastic wheel nut caps, loosen the plastic nut caps. You may need to use the wheel wrench to loosen them. Do not pry off wheel covers or center caps that have plastic wheel nut caps. 2. Remove the wheel cover or center cap from the

wheel to locate the wheel nuts. If your vehicle has a wheel cover or hubcap without plastic wheel nut caps, gently pry on the edge of the plastic wheel trim to remove it from the wheel to locate the wheel nuts.

3. Use the wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t

remove them yet.

5-65

{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

{CAUTION:

4. Position the lift head at the jack location nearest the

flat tire. Make sure all of the jack lift head is touching the jacking flange under the body. Do not place the jack under a body panel. The lower body panel has an arrow to aid in locating the jacking location.

5. Put the compact spare tire near you.

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

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6. Raise the vehicle by turning the wrench clockwise.

Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit.

7. Remove all of the wheel nuts. 8. Remove the flat tire.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

9. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

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10. Install the compact spare tire.

{CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

11. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end

toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand or with the wrench until the wheel is held against the hub.

5-68

12. Lower the vehicle by turning the wrench

counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

{CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-93 for wheel nut torque specification.

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead

Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-93 for the wheel nut torque specification.

13. Tighten the wheel nuts

firmly in a crisscross sequence, as shown, with the wheel wrench.

Notice: Wheel covers will not fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare. Do not try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It will not fit. Store the wheel cover and wheel nut caps in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

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Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

{CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

For the sedan model, store the flat tire and jack in the compact tire compartment as follows: 1. Remove the center cap from the wheel. 2. Place the tire in the compartment, valve stem

down, with the bolt extending through the wheel center hole.

3. Place the jack and wrench over the bolt, inside

the wheel.

4. Secure by tightening the larger wing nut onto

the bolt.

5-70

A. Cover B. Wing Nut C. Jack

Sedan Model

D. Flat Tire

(valve stem down)

E. Bolt

For the MAXX model, store the flat tire and jack in the compact spare tire compartment as follows: 1. Remove the bolt extension (in the yellow sleeve)

from the jack.

MAXX Model

2. Place the jack over the bolt (A) on the floor making

sure it contacts the bolt as shown. Secure it with the bracket and nut provided.

3. With the valve stem up, place the tire on the

compartment floor with the rear of the tire beneath the trim panel. The tire may not lay completely flat. Line up a wheel nut hole with the bolt.

4. With the yellow cap in place to prevent the wheel

from being scratched, screw the bolt extension onto the bolt through the wheel nut hole.

5. Remove the plug from the center hole of the floor cover by pressing on the tabs on the bottom of the cover. Remove the yellow cap from the bolt extension.

6. Fold the rear flap of the cover up and place the

cover on top of the wheel. The extension will come through the center hole in the cover. 7. Secure the cover with the larger wing nut.

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A. Cover B. Wing Nut C. Spare Tire D. Nut E. Bracket

(MAXX model only)

F. Jack (plus bolt

extension, MAXX model only)

G. Bolt

A. Wing Nut B. Cover C. Bolt Extension D. Flat Tire

(valve stem up)

MAXX Model E. Nut F. Bracket G. Jack H. Bolt

The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-73. Store the compact spare tire and tools as shown in the following diagram.

5-72

Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when the vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on the vehicle, stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have the full-size tire repaired or replaced at your convenience. Of course, it is best to replace the spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible. The spare tire will last longer and be in good shape in case it is needed again.

Notice: When the compact spare is installed, do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Do not use the compact spare on other vehicles. And do not mix the compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They will not fit. Keep the spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains will not fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Do not use tire chains on your compact spare.

5-73

Appearance Care Cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Other cleaning products can burst into flames if a match is struck near them or if they get on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if their fumes are inhaled in a closed space. When anything from a container is used to clean the vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. Always open the doors or windows of the vehicle when cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean the vehicle: (cid:127) Gasoline (cid:127) Benzene (cid:127) Naphtha (cid:127) Carbon Tetrachloride (cid:127) Acetone (cid:127) Paint Thinner

Turpentine Lacquer Thinner

(cid:127) Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous — some more than others — and they can all damage the vehicle, too.

5-74

Do not use any of these products unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage the vehicle: (cid:127) Alcohol

Laundry Soap

(cid:127) Bleach (cid:127) Reducing Agents

Fabric/Carpet Cleaning Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic, and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Your GM dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. If the vehicle has the Ultra Lux® suede fabric, follow the listed procedures except do not use any solvents or dry cleaning products.

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Here are some cleaning tips: (cid:127) Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. (cid:127) Clean up stains as soon as you can — before

they set.

(cid:127) Carefully scrape off any excess stain. (cid:127) Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a

clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. To avoid forming a ring on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set. Most stains can be removed with club soda water. To clean, use the following instructions: 1. For liquids: blot with a clean, soft white cloth. For solids: remove as much as possible and then vacuum or brush.

2. Apply club soda water to a clean, soft white cloth. Do not over-saturate; the cloth should not drip water.

3. Clean the entire area. Avoid getting the fabric

too wet.

4. Start cleaning from the seams into the stain to

avoid a ring effect.

5. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth

each time it becomes soiled.

6. When the stain is removed, blot the cleaned area

with another dry clean, soft white cloth.

Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. First, try the cleaner in an inconspicuous area to

make sure the cleaner does not affect the color of the fabric.

2. For liquids: blot the stain with a clean, soft

white cloth. For solids: remove as much as possible and then vacuum or brush.

3. Spray a small amount of the cleaner onto a clean,

soft white cloth. Do not apply spray directly to the fabric.

4. Start cleaning from the seams into the stain to

avoid a ring effect.

5. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth

each time it becomes soiled.

6. When the stain is removed, blot the cleaned area

with another dry clean, soft white cloth.

7. If the cleaner leaves a ring effect, follow up with the club soda water instructions given earlier in this section.

5-75

(cid:127) Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee, tea, milk, fruit, fruit juice, jelly, cheese, chocolate, vomit, urine, and blood can be removed using the club soda water instructions given earlier in this section. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water and baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water. Let dry. Stains caused by oil and grease can be cleaned with an approved GM cleaner and a clean, white cloth. 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry completely. 3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. (cid:127) Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. This

may have to be done more than once. Things like tar, asphalt, and shoe polish will stain if they are not removed quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.

For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner.

(cid:127) Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish, or shoe polish on leather.

(cid:127) Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

Ultra Lux Suede Cleaning Ultra Lux Suede Use a mild solution of lukewarm water and a neutral dish soap on a soft cloth or sponge. For the following stains, follow these instructions:

Coffee, Tea, and Milk: Blot with a clean, soft, white cloth. Then clean with mild soapy water and a clean white cloth.

Cosmetics: Clean with mild soapy water and a clean white cloth.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) Jelly, Syrup, and Fruit: Remove most of the solids, then clean with warm tap water and a clean white cloth.

Oil and Grease: Sprinkle baking soda on the spot, brush, then wipe with a clean white cloth.

Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.

Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.

Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-82.

If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning

Notice: glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger and the integrated radio antenna. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner.

Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

{CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

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Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.

Washing Your Vehicle The paint finish on the vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention, and durability. The best way to preserve the vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Do not wash the vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. GM-approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-82. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting.

If you drive your vehicle through an

Notice: automatic car wash that does not have enough clearance for the wide rear tires and wheels, you could damage your vehicle. Verify with the manager of the car wash that your vehicle will fit before entering the car wash or use a touchless car wash. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter the vehicle.

Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-78.

Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of the vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. GM-approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-82. The vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.

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Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish on your vehicle. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage the vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather, and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. To help keep the paint finish looking new, keep the vehicle in a garage or covered whenever possible.

Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap, or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a glass cleaning liquid or powder and water solution. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when it is rinsed with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.

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If you use strong soaps, chemicals,

Aluminum Wheels Notice: abrasive polishes, cleaners, brushes, or cleaners that contain acid on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels, you could damage the surface of the wheel(s). The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use only GM-approved cleaners on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. Keep the wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. Notice: Using chrome polish on aluminum wheels could damage the wheels. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use chrome polish on chrome wheels only. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of the vehicle. Do not use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because the surface could be damaged. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels.

If you drive your vehicle through an

Notice: automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes, you could damage the aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never drive a vehicle equipped with aluminum or chrome-plated wheels through an automatic car wash that uses silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. Do not take the vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

Tires To clean the tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on your vehicle may damage the paint finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on your vehicle.

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Sheet Metal Damage If the vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.

Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your GM dealer. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your GM dealer’s body and paint shop.

Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan, and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your GM dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on the vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

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Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing the following products.

Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

Description

Usage

Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish White Sidewall Tire Cleaner

Vinyl Cleaner

Glass Cleaner

Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil and asphalt. Use on chrome or stainless steel. Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints.

Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

(cont’d)

Description

Usage

Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner

Finish Enhancer

Swirl Remover Polish

Cleaner Wax

Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss

Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers. Removes dust, fingerprints, and surface contaminants. Spray on wipe off. Removes swirl marks, fine scratches and other light surface contamination. Removes light scratches and protects finish. Cleans, shines and protects in one easy step, no wiping necessary.

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Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

(cont’d)

Vehicle Identification

Description

Wash Wax Concentrate

Spot Lifter

Odor Eliminator

Usage Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free. Quickly and easily removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl and suede upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, suede and carpet.

See your General Motors parts department for these products. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.