2008 Chevrolet Corvette Owners Manual

manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16.

Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-57. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-15.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-95.

Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine (VIN Code W), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 7.0L V8 engine (VIN Code E), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. For best performance, use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 93. In an emergency, you can use regular unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 or higher. If 87 octane fuel is used, do not perform any aggressive driving maneuvers such as wide open throttle applications. You might also hear audible spark knock during acceleration. Refill the tank with premium fuel as soon as possible to avoid damaging the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.

5-5

Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information.

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-43. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty.

Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels.

5-6

Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.

5-7

Filling the Tank

{CAUTION:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.

5-8

The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

The fuel door release button is located on the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. Push the button to release the fuel door.

There is also a manual fuel door release tab. It is located against the upper trim in the rear compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Pull the tab to release the fuel door.

To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise.

5-9

While refueling, let the cap hang by the tether below the fuel fill opening.

{CAUTION:

Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned.This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-89. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-43. The CHECK GAS CAP message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55 for more information.

5-10

{CAUTION:

If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get

Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-43.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

{CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

(cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved

containers.

(cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while

pumping fuel.

5-11

Checking Things Under the Hood

{CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

5-12

Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the hood release lever with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle below the instrument panel on the driver’s side.

2. Go to the side of the vehicle and pull up on the rear

edge of the hood, near the windshield.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then, just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

5-13

Engine Compartment Overview If your vehicle has the 6.2L LS3 V8 engine and you are facing the front, when you open the hood, here is what you will see:

5-14

A. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir (If Equipped).

See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-27.

B. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding

Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-41.

C. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under

Brakes on page 5-42.

D. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Engine

Coolant on page 5-28.

E. Engine Air Cleaner/Filters. See Engine Air

Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25.

F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering

Fluid on page 5-39.

G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-17.

H. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-17.

I. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine

Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-100.

J. Passenger Compartment Air Filter (Out of View).

See Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-31.

K. Battery. See Battery on page 5-45.

5-15

If your vehicle has the 7.0L LS7 V8 engine and you are facing the driver’s side of the vehicle, when you open the hood, here is what you will see:

5-16

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air

Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25.

B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering

Fluid on page 5-39.

C. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine

Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-100.

D. Remote Positive Terminal (Out of View). See Battery

on page 5-45.

E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-17.

F. Dry Sump Engine Oil Tank. See “Changing Engine Oil and Filter (Z06 Only)” Engine Oil on page 5-17.

G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine

Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-17.

H. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Engine

Coolant on page 5-28.

I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding

Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-41.

J. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under

Brakes on page 5-42.

K. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir. See Hydraulic

Clutch on page 5-27.

Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil (Except Z06) If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message on the Driver Information Center (DIC) comes on, check the engine oil level right away. For more information, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-49. You should check the engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It is a good idea to check the engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a lint-free paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way.

3. Remove the dipstick again, keeping the tip down and read the level on the cross-hatched area. Oil levels that fall in the cross-hatched area are normal.

4. Push the dipstick back in all the way.

5-17

When to Add Engine Oil (Except Z06)

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.

Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.

If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-103. See Racing or Other Competitive Driving on page 4-15
for additional information on engine oil. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

5-18

Checking Engine Oil (Z06 Only)

A. Engine Oil Dipstick B. Engine Oil Fill Cap It is a good idea to check the engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. The dipstick is located on the dry sump engine oil tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the dry sump engine oil tank.

Z06 models have a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when checking the engine oil level. Follow this procedure closely when checking the engine oil level. The engine oil level must be checked when the engine is warm. Cold oil level in the dry sump tank may not indicate the actual amount of oil in the system. With this system, engine oil is contained in an external tank, separate from the engine. Under normal operating conditions, the oil pan under the engine does not store any oil. If the vehicle has been parked for an extended period without the engine being started, some oil will seep back into the oil pan, reducing the amount of oil held in the dry sump tank and there could be no engine oil at all showing on the dipstick. This is normal since the dipstick is designed to read engine oil level only after the engine has run long enough to reach normal operating temperature. Do not add engine oil based on cold engine dipstick readings. The engine oil level on the dipstick will also be inaccurate if checked while the engine is running. 1. To obtain an accurate engine oil level reading,

warm up the engine to at least 175°F (80°C). Cold oil will not give a correct oil level reading. 2. Once the engine is warm, turn off the engine.

Checking the oil while the engine is running will result in an incorrect oil level reading.

5-19

3. Wait at least five minutes (but not more than 20 minutes) to allow oil to drain and settle in the engine.

4. Remove the dipstick from the external engine oil tank and clean it with a lint-free paper towel or a cloth. Re-insert the dipstick into the external oil tank, pushing it all the way in until it stops.

5. Remove the dipstick from the oil tank and read the level on the cross-hatched area. Oil levels that fall in the cross-hatched area are normal.

When to Add Engine Oil (Z06 Only)

See Racing or Other Competitive Driving on page 4-15
for additional information on engine oil. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the external engine oil tank and fill cap.

Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back into the oil tank when you are through.

If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil through the oil fill cap opening in the oil tank. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-103.

5-20

Changing Engine Oil and Filter (Z06 Only) Z06 models have a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when changing the engine oil and filter. Follow this procedure closely when changing the engine oil and filter.

1. Remove the two engine oil drain plugs from the

bottom of the engine oil pan. One drain plug drains the external oil tank via the oil transfer supply line. The other drain plug drains residual oil from the crankcase sump. Allow the oil to drain.

2. Once the oil has been drained from the engine, remove the engine oil filter and allow the oil to drain.

3. Re-install both drain plugs and tighten them to

18 lb ft (25 Y).

4. Replace the oil filter and tighten it to 18 lb ft

(25 Y). See Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13 for the correct filter.

5. Oil is filled through the opening in the top of the external engine oil tank. Remove the oil fill cap.

6. Add eight quarts (7.6 L) of oil to the oil tank. See

Capacities and Specifications on page 5-103. 7. Install the oil fill cap and insert the dipstick, if

removed.

A. Engine Oil Drain Plugs B. Seals

8. Start the engine and let it run at idle for at least 15 seconds. This will circulate the fresh engine oil through the lubrication system.

9. Shut off the engine and check the oil level as

described under “Checking Engine Oil (Z06 Only).”

5-21

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use

If you use oils that do not have the

Notice: GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

(cid:129) Oils meeting these

requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Look for three things: (cid:129) GM4718M

Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M.

5-22

Look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Your vehicle’s engine is filled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle.

Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM4718M are all you need for good performance and engine protection.

Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.

Z06 models have a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when changing the engine oil and filter. See Engine Oil on page 5-17. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

5-23

How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message after an oil change: 1. Press the TRIP button so the OIL LIFE percentage

is displayed.

2. Press RESET and hold for two seconds. OIL LIFE

REMAINING 100% will appear.

If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.

5-24

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filters. Notice: cleaner/filter intake and water enters the engine air cleaner/filter housing, you could damage your vehicle’s engine. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not spray water into the engine air cleaner/filter intake and/or housing.

If you spray water into the engine air

If you are cleaning your vehicle with the hood open, take care not to spray water directly near the filter opening of the air cleaner, as shown in the illustration, as this could damage your vehicle’s engine. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters Inspect the air cleaner/filters at the Maintenance II intervals and replace them at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filters at each engine oil change.

5-25

How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters To inspect the air cleaner/filters, remove the filters from the vehicle and lightly shake the filters to release loose dust and dirt. If the filters remain caked with dirt, new filters are required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filters, do the following:

1. Remove the screws holding the filter element in

place.

2. Pull on latches found on either side of the filter.

5-26

3. Inspect or replace the filter. See Maintenance

Replacement Parts on page 6-13.

4. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to replace the air

cleaner/filter cover.

{CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ filter off.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can

Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

Automatic Transmission Fluid How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. There is a special procedure for checking and changing the transmission fluid. Because this procedure is difficult, you should have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. Contact your dealer/retailer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.

Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.

Manual Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the manual transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11 for the proper fluid to use.

Hydraulic Clutch It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid will not correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

5-27

When to Check and What to Use

The hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid to use. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-8 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. How to Check and Add Fluid Make sure the fluid level is at the MIN (Minimum) line on the side of the reservoir. If it is not, remove the cap and add the proper fluid until the level reaches the MIN line.

5-28

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-31. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature.

Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

(cid:129) What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

If you use an improper coolant mixture,

Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11 for more information.

If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives

5-29

Checking Coolant

The engine coolant surge tank is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark. The FULL COLD mark is on the front of the coolant surge tank. Do not overfill the surge tank. Too much coolant can result in an overflow when the fluid is hot.

5-30

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.

Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.

Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on the instrument panel cluster and a COOLANT OVER TEMPERATURE message on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-42 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55 for more information.

5-31

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

If your engine catches fire because you

Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the windows as necessary.

5-32

(cid:129) If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you are not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the messages COOLANT OVER TEMPERATURE and REDUCED ENGINE POWER are displayed, along with the Check Engine light, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km). Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-17.

5-33

Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap

5-34

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service.

Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.

5-35

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they (Continued)

CAUTION:

5-36

CAUTION:

(Continued)

can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure

cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter turn and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

5-37

3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture until the level inside stabilizes at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the surge tank.

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level stabilizes at the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank.

5-38

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. Check the level in the surge tank when the system has cooled down. If the coolant is not at the proper level, repeat Steps 1 through 4, then reinstall the pressure cap. If the coolant is not at the proper level when the system cools down again, see your dealer/retailer.

Power Steering Fluid

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on

the dipstick. There are markings on both sides of the dipstick.

The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.

5-39

When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the HOT mark. When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be at the FULL COLD mark.

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage your vehicle and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.

5-40

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow

the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.

5-41

(cid:129) It is not a good idea to top off the brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check the brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

Brakes Brake Fluid

The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake hydraulic system. If it is, you should have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.

5-42

Checking Brake Fluid The brake fluid can be checked without taking off the cap by looking at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above the MIN mark on the reservoir. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is between the MIN and MAX marks. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake

hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-89.

5-43

(cid:129) Brake Wear Your vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.

5-44

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment As you make brake stops, the disc brakes automatically adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. For battery replacement, see your dealer/retailer or the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-46 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. See “Power Window Initialization” in Power Windows on page 2-17. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.

5-45

If you try to start your vehicle by pushing

Notice: or pulling it, you could damage your vehicle. Do not push or pull your vehicle to start it; instead, use the jump starting procedure in this manual to start your vehicle when the battery has run down. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brakes.

Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or

(cid:129) They contain enough electricity to

ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

5-46

If you leave your radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle.

Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) terminal (A) and a remote negative (−) terminal (B), as shown in the illustration, which should be used to jump start your vehicle. The remote positive (+) terminal (A) can be accessed by opening the cover of the engine compartment fuse block. The remote negative (−) terminal (B) is located underneath the engine cover, below the engine oil fill cap. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for the location of the engine compartment fuse block and engine oil fill cap.

5-47

You will not need to access the battery for jump starting. The remote terminals are for that purpose.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5-48

{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal for this purpose.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If

it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

5-49

If the jumper cables are connected or

Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the engine fuse block cover to its original

position.

6. You may also need to initialize the power windows.

See “Power Window Initialize” under Power Windows on page 2-17 for more information.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

5-50

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use To add lubricant when the level is low, use SAE 75W–90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. U.S. 89021677, in Canada 89021678) meeting GM Specification 9986115. To completely refill after draining, add Limited-Slip Axle Lubricant Additive (GM Part No. U.S. 1052358, in Canada 992694). See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Then fill to the bottom of the filler plug hole with the Synthetic Gear Lubricant. Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If the headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommended that you take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer for service.

5-51

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-55. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.

High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting

{CAUTION:

The low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer/retailer or a qualified technician service them.

Your vehicle has HID headlamps. After your vehicle’s HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal.

5-52

Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps

To replace a high-beam or front parking/turn signal/DRL bulb, do the following: 1. Turn the wheel to allow access to the wheel well.

A. High-beam Headlamp B. Low-beam Headlamp C. Front Parking/Turn Signal/Daytime Running

Lamp (DRL)

If the low-beam headlamp needs to be replaced, you will need to see your dealer/retailer. See High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting on page 5-52 for more information.

2. Access the high-beam or front parking/turn signal bulbs by removing the access panel. To do this, remove the three outer fasteners and move the cover back.

5-53

3. Remove the outer cover to expose the high-beam headlamp bulb socket once the access cover has been removed.

4. Remove the headlamp

bulb by releasing the outer tabs from the socket.

Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps To replace a stoplamp, taillamp/turn signal bulb: 1. Remove the screw from the top of the lamp

assembly.

5. Remove the front parking/turn signal bulb by turning

the bulb socket counterclockwise.

6. Replace the high-beam headlamp bulb with a new

bulb and reattach to the bulb socket. Replace the front parking/turn signal bulb by turning the bulb socket clockwise.

7. Reverse the Steps 2 through 4 to reinstall.

5-54

2. Tilt the lamp assembly toward you. 3. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn

counterclockwise and pull it out.

4. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the

socket.

5. Push the new bulb in the bulb socket until it snaps

into place.

6. Reinstall the lamp assembly by first lining up the tabs on the bottom of the lamp assembly with the tabs in the vehicle, then slide it in.

7. Replace the screw at the top of the lamp assembly.

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Front Parking/Turn Signal/ Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Headlamp, High-Beam Lamp Sidemarker Lamp Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp

5702KA

H9

W3W

3057KX

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.

Windshield Replacement Your windshield is part of the Head-Up Display (HUD) system. If you ever have to get your windshield replaced, get one that is designed for HUD or your HUD image may look out of focus. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. It is a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly every six months. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield.

5-55

To remove the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Open the hood to gain access to the windshield

wipers.

2. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.

3. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab (C). Pull down on the blade assembly (A) to release it from the wiper arm hook (F).

4. Remove the insert from the blade assembly (A). The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notch end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab

D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook

5-56

To install the new wiper insert:

4. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly

onto the windshield.

Installation guide:

1. Slide the insert (D), notched end last, into the end

with the two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). Plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully installed.

2. Be sure the notches are locked by the bottom

claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.

3. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation

5-57

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details.

{CAUTION:

(cid:129) Poorly maintained and improperly

used tires are dangerous.

(cid:129) Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

5-58

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:129) Underinflated tires pose the same

danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66.

(cid:129) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

See High-Speed Operation on page 5-67 for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.

If your vehicle has low-profile tires,

Low-Profile Performance Tire The original equipment tires on your vehicle are classified as low-profile performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-profile tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.

Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. All season tires provide good overall performance on most surfaces but they may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. Winter tires, in general, are designed for increased traction on snow and ice covered roads. With winter tires, there may be decreased dry road traction, increased road noise, and shorter tread life. After switching to winter tires, be alert for changes in vehicle handling and braking. See your dealer/retailer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-73. If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:129) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all

four wheel positions.

(cid:129) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load range,

and speed rating as the original equipment tires.

Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, Y, and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.

5-59

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The example below shows a typical passenger (p-metric) tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

5-60

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-75.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger (p-metric) vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

5-61

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66.

5-62

Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

5-63

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-72. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-75. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24.

5-64

Run-Flat Tires Your vehicle, when new, had run-flat tires. There is no spare tire, no tire changing equipment, and no place to store a tire in the vehicle. Run-flat tires perform so well without any air that a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) is used to alert you if a tire has lost pressure.

{CAUTION:

When the low tire warning light is displayed on the instrument panel cluster, your vehicle’s handling capabilities will be reduced during severe maneuvers. If you drive too fast, you could lose control of your vehicle. You or others could be injured. Do not drive over 55 mph (90 km/h) when the low tire warning light is displayed. Drive cautiously and check your tire pressures as soon as you can.

If a tire goes flat, you will not need to stop on the side of the road to change the tire. You can just keep on driving. The shorter the distance you drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance that the tire will not have to be replaced. If you drive on a deflated

run-flat tire for 25 miles (40 km) or less and at speeds of 55 mph (90 km/h) or less, there is a good chance that the tire can be repaired. The tire can operate effectively with no air pressure for up to 100 miles (160 km) at speeds up to 55 mph (90 km/h), but the tire would then have to be replaced. When a tire is filled with air, it provides a cushion between the road and the wheel. Because you will not have this cushion when driving on a deflated tire, try to avoid potholes that could damage your wheel and require replacement of it. Some road hazards can damage a tire beyond repair. This damage could occur even before you have driven on the tire in a deflated condition. When a tire has been damaged, or if you have driven any distance on a run-flat tire, check with an authorized run-flat tire service center to determine whether the tire can be repaired or should be replaced. To maintain your vehicle’s run-flat feature, all replacement tires must be self-supporting tires. As soon as possible, contact the nearest authorized GM or run-flat servicing facility for inspection and repair or replacement. To locate the nearest GM or run-flat servicing facility, call Roadside Assistance. For phone numbers and Roadside Service details see Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-8.

{CAUTION:

Run-flat tires are constructed differently than other tires and could explode during improper service. You or others could be injured or killed if you attempt to repair, replace, dismount, or mount a run-flat tire. Let only an authorized run-flat service center repair, replace, dismount, and mount run-flat tires.

The valve stems on your run-flat tires have sensors that are part of the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-68. These sensors contain batteries which are designed to last for 10 years under normal driving conditions. See your dealer/retailer if you ever need to have a wheel replaced, or if the sensors ever need replacement.

5-65

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much flexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road hazards

5-66

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

High-Speed Operation

{CAUTION:

Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden (Continued)

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

(Continued)

tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent