2008 Chevrolet Corvette Owners Manual

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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary. 5-32 (cid:129) If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you are not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the messages COOLANT OVER TEMPERATURE and REDUCED ENGINE POWER are displayed, along with the Check Engine light, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km). Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-17. 5-33 Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system. A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap 5-34 {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. 5-35 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they (Continued) CAUTION: 5-36 CAUTION: (Continued) can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter turn and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 5-37 3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture until the level inside stabilizes at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the surge tank. 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level stabilizes at the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank. 5-38 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. Check the level in the surge tank when the system has cooled down. If the coolant is not at the proper level, repeat Steps 1 through 4, then reinstall the pressure cap. If the coolant is not at the proper level when the system cools down again, see your dealer/retailer. Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. There are markings on both sides of the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the mark. 5-39 When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the HOT mark. When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be at the FULL COLD mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Notice: Use of the incorrect ﬂuid may damage your vehicle and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. 5-40 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill the washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for ﬂuid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint. 5-41 (cid:129) It is not a good idea to top off the brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If ﬂuid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much ﬂuid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check the brake ﬂuid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Brakes Brake Fluid The brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake hydraulic system. If it is, you should have the brake hydraulic system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well. 5-42 Checking Brake Fluid The brake ﬂuid can be checked without taking off the cap by looking at the brake ﬂuid reservoir. The ﬂuid level should be above the MIN mark on the reservoir. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is between the MIN and MAX marks. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Refer to Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-89. 5-43 (cid:129) Brake Wear Your vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. 5-44 Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment As you make brake stops, the disc brakes automatically adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. For battery replacement, see your dealer/retailer or the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-46 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. See “Power Window Initialization” in Power Windows on page 2-17. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time. 5-45 If you try to start your vehicle by pushing Notice: or pulling it, you could damage your vehicle. Do not push or pull your vehicle to start it; instead, use the jump starting procedure in this manual to start your vehicle when the battery has run down. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brakes. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. 5-46 If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) terminal (A) and a remote negative (−) terminal (B), as shown in the illustration, which should be used to jump start your vehicle. The remote positive (+) terminal (A) can be accessed by opening the cover of the engine compartment fuse block. The remote negative (−) terminal (B) is located underneath the engine cover, below the engine oil ﬁll cap. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine compartment fuse block and engine oil ﬁll cap. 5-47 You will not need to access the battery for jump starting. The remote terminals are for that purpose. {CAUTION: {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5-48 {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal for this purpose. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-49 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the engine fuse block cover to its original position. 6. You may also need to initialize the power windows. See “Power Window Initialize” under Power Windows on page 2-17 for more information. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-50 Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use To add lubricant when the level is low, use SAE 75W–90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. U.S. 89021677, in Canada 89021678) meeting GM Speciﬁcation 9986115. To completely reﬁll after draining, add Limited-Slip Axle Lubricant Additive (GM Part No. U.S. 1052358, in Canada 992694). See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Then ﬁll to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole with the Synthetic Gear Lubricant. Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if oncoming drivers ﬂash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If the headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommended that you take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer for service. 5-51 Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-55. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer. High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting {CAUTION: The low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer/retailer or a qualiﬁed technician service them. Your vehicle has HID headlamps. After your vehicle’s HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal. 5-52 Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps To replace a high-beam or front parking/turn signal/DRL bulb, do the following: 1. Turn the wheel to allow access to the wheel well. A. High-beam Headlamp B. Low-beam Headlamp C. Front Parking/Turn Signal/Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) If the low-beam headlamp needs to be replaced, you will need to see your dealer/retailer. See High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting on page 5-52 for more information. 2. Access the high-beam or front parking/turn signal bulbs by removing the access panel. To do this, remove the three outer fasteners and move the cover back. 5-53 3. Remove the outer cover to expose the high-beam headlamp bulb socket once the access cover has been removed. 4. Remove the headlamp bulb by releasing the outer tabs from the socket. Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps To replace a stoplamp, taillamp/turn signal bulb: 1. Remove the screw from the top of the lamp assembly. 5. Remove the front parking/turn signal bulb by turning the bulb socket counterclockwise. 6. Replace the high-beam headlamp bulb with a new bulb and reattach to the bulb socket. Replace the front parking/turn signal bulb by turning the bulb socket clockwise. 7. Reverse the Steps 2 through 4 to reinstall. 5-54 2. Tilt the lamp assembly toward you. 3. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise and pull it out. 4. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. 5. Push the new bulb in the bulb socket until it snaps into place. 6. Reinstall the lamp assembly by ﬁrst lining up the tabs on the bottom of the lamp assembly with the tabs in the vehicle, then slide it in. 7. Replace the screw at the top of the lamp assembly. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Front Parking/Turn Signal/ Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Headlamp, High-Beam Lamp Sidemarker Lamp Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp 5702KA H9 W3W 3057KX For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer. Windshield Replacement Your windshield is part of the Head-Up Display (HUD) system. If you ever have to get your windshield replaced, get one that is designed for HUD or your HUD image may look out of focus. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. It is a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly every six months. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 5-55 To remove the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Open the hood to gain access to the windshield wipers. 2. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield. 3. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab (C). Pull down on the blade assembly (A) to release it from the wiper arm hook (F). 4. Remove the insert from the blade assembly (A). The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notch end, pull the insert from the blade assembly. A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook 5-56 To install the new wiper insert: 4. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly onto the windshield. Installation guide: 1. Slide the insert (D), notched end last, into the end with the two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). Plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully installed. 2. Be sure the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots. 3. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot. A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation 5-57 Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. {CAUTION: (cid:129) Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:129) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much ﬂexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-58 CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:129) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66. (cid:129) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. See High-Speed Operation on page 5-67 for inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed driving. If your vehicle has low-proﬁle tires, Low-Proﬁle Performance Tire The original equipment tires on your vehicle are classiﬁed as low-proﬁle performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-proﬁle tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard proﬁle tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inﬂation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards. Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. All season tires provide good overall performance on most surfaces but they may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. Winter tires, in general, are designed for increased traction on snow and ice covered roads. With winter tires, there may be decreased dry road traction, increased road noise, and shorter tread life. After switching to winter tires, be alert for changes in vehicle handling and braking. See your dealer/retailer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-73. If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:129) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all four wheel positions. (cid:129) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load range, and speed rating as the original equipment tires. Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, Y, and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability. 5-59 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The example below shows a typical passenger (p-metric) tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. 5-60 (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-75. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger (p-metric) vehicle tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. 5-61 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66. 5-62 Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. 5-63 Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-72. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-75. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. 5-64 Run-Flat Tires Your vehicle, when new, had run-ﬂat tires. There is no spare tire, no tire changing equipment, and no place to store a tire in the vehicle. Run-ﬂat tires perform so well without any air that a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) is used to alert you if a tire has lost pressure. {CAUTION: When the low tire warning light is displayed on the instrument panel cluster, your vehicle’s handling capabilities will be reduced during severe maneuvers. If you drive too fast, you could lose control of your vehicle. You or others could be injured. Do not drive over 55 mph (90 km/h) when the low tire warning light is displayed. Drive cautiously and check your tire pressures as soon as you can. If a tire goes ﬂat, you will not need to stop on the side of the road to change the tire. You can just keep on driving. The shorter the distance you drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance that the tire will not have to be replaced. If you drive on a deﬂated run-ﬂat tire for 25 miles (40 km) or less and at speeds of 55 mph (90 km/h) or less, there is a good chance that the tire can be repaired. The tire can operate effectively with no air pressure for up to 100 miles (160 km) at speeds up to 55 mph (90 km/h), but the tire would then have to be replaced. When a tire is ﬁlled with air, it provides a cushion between the road and the wheel. Because you will not have this cushion when driving on a deﬂated tire, try to avoid potholes that could damage your wheel and require replacement of it. Some road hazards can damage a tire beyond repair. This damage could occur even before you have driven on the tire in a deﬂated condition. When a tire has been damaged, or if you have driven any distance on a run-ﬂat tire, check with an authorized run-ﬂat tire service center to determine whether the tire can be repaired or should be replaced. To maintain your vehicle’s run-ﬂat feature, all replacement tires must be self-supporting tires. As soon as possible, contact the nearest authorized GM or run-ﬂat servicing facility for inspection and repair or replacement. To locate the nearest GM or run-ﬂat servicing facility, call Roadside Assistance. For phone numbers and Roadside Service details see Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-8. {CAUTION: Run-ﬂat tires are constructed differently than other tires and could explode during improper service. You or others could be injured or killed if you attempt to repair, replace, dismount, or mount a run-ﬂat tire. Let only an authorized run-ﬂat service center repair, replace, dismount, and mount run-ﬂat tires. The valve stems on your run-ﬂat tires have sensors that are part of the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-68. These sensors contain batteries which are designed to last for 10 years under normal driving conditions. See your dealer/retailer if you ever need to have a wheel replaced, or if the sensors ever need replacement. 5-65 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much ﬂexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road hazards 5-66 A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they are under-inﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. High-Speed Operation {CAUTION: Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden (Continued) CAUTION: CAUTION: (Continued) tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inﬂation pressure for the vehicle load. If you will be driving your vehicle at speeds of 175 mph (282 km/h) or higher, where it is legal, set the cold inﬂation pressure to the maximum inﬂation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or 38 psi (265 kPa), whichever is lower. See the example following. When you end this high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold inﬂation pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24. Example: You will ﬁnd the maximum load and inﬂation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near the rim ﬂange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 690 kg (1521 lbs) 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press. 5-67 For this example, you would set the inﬂation pressure for high-speed driving at 38 psi (265 kPa). Racing or other competitive driving may affect the warranty coverage of your vehicle. See your warranty booklet for more information. Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inﬂated to the inﬂation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inﬂation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inﬂate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated tire causes the 5-68 tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inﬂation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inﬂation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will ﬂash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-69, for additional information. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation. The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device. Changes or modiﬁcations to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment. Tire Pressure Monitor Operation The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly on your vehicle. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light, located in the instrument panel cluster. At the same time a message to check the pressure in a speciﬁc tire appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message appear at each ignition cycle until the tires are inﬂated to the correct inﬂation pressure. Using the DIC, tire pressure levels can 5-69 be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-50 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is ﬁrst started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inﬂated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66 for additional information. Your vehicle’s TPMS can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-71, When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-72, and Tires on page 5-58. Notice: Liquid tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. Sensor damage caused by using a tire sealant is not covered by your warranty. Do not use liquid tire sealants. 5-70 TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light ﬂashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: The TPMS sensor matching process was not done or not completed successfully. The DIC message should go off after successfully completing the sensor matching process. (cid:129) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. Under these conditions the TPMS malfunction light (low tire warning light) comes on, and at the same time the DIC message is displayed. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. (cid:129) (cid:129) Replacement tires or wheels do not match your vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-73. (cid:129) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction. If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on. TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identiﬁcation code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate your vehicle’s tires, the identiﬁcation codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect your vehicle’s tires for signs of wear or damage Also check for damaged wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-72 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-76. The tires on your vehicle are different sizes front to rear. Due to this, the tires should not be rotated. Each tire and wheel should be used only in the position it is in. 5-71 When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions, inﬂuence when you need new tires. One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:129) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. (cid:129) You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading conditions, and inﬂation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information. 5-72 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched speciﬁc tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC Spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical speciﬁcations that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall near the tire size. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC Spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-60, for additional information. GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of your vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-71. Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, Y and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose snow tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability. {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle), brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle), brands or types, may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type tires on all four wheels. 5-73 {CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system could give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC Spec rated tires are installed on it. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-68. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-24, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. 5-74 Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected. {CAUTION: If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM speciﬁc wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certiﬁed technician. See Buying New Tires on page 5-73 and Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for additional information. Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. 5-75 Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. 5-76 If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle. {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. {CAUTION: Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire clearance to the body and chassis. Never use oil or grease on studs or the threads of the wheel nuts. If you do, the wheel nuts might come loose and the wheel could fall off, causing a crash. 5-77 Tightening Wheel Lug Nuts {CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. Tighten the wheel lug nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence as shown. 5-78 Used Replacement Wheels Tire Chains {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, re-adjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do ﬁnd traction devices that will ﬁt, install them on the rear tires. 5-79 Lifting Your Vehicle {CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to lift your vehicle. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R). 3. Turn off the engine. To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks in front of and behind the wheels. {CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. {CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle or the vehicle may fall and cause your or others injury. If you ever use a jack to lift your vehicle, follow the instructions that came with the jack, and be sure to use the correct lifting points to avoid damaging your vehicle. 5-80 Notice: Lifting your vehicle improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To lift your vehicle properly, follow the advice in this part. To help prevent vehicle damage: (cid:129) Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack and the vehicle. (cid:129) Make sure the jack you are using spans at least two crossmember ribs. Lift only in the areas shown in the following pictures. For additional information, see your dealer/retailer and the Chevrolet Corvette service manual. Lifting From the Front The front lifting points can be accessed from either side of your vehicle, behind the front tires. 5-81 (cid:129) 1. Locate the front lifting points (A), according to the illustration shown. 3. Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack spans at least two of the crossmember ribs (B). 2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack and the vehicle. 5-82 Lifting From the Rear The rear lifting points can be accessed from the rear of the vehicle, on either the driver’s or passenger’s side. 1. Locate the rear lifting points (A), according to the illustration shown. 2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack and the vehicle. 5-83 If a Tire Goes Flat Your vehicle has no spare tire, no tire changing equipment, and no place to store a tire. It is unusual for a tire to blow out while you are driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. See Tires on page 5-58 for additional information. Your vehicle, when new, had run-ﬂat tires. This type of tire can operate effectively with no air pressure, so you will not need to stop on the side of the road to change a ﬂat tire. You can just keep on driving. The shorter the distance you drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance that the run-ﬂat tire will not have to be replaced. Run-ﬂat tires perform so well without any air that a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) is used to alert you if a tire has lost pressure. See Run-Flat Tires on page 5-64 and Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-68. 3. Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack spans at least two of the crossmember ribs (B). For more information, see Doing Your Own Service Work on page 5-4. 5-84 {CAUTION: Special tools and procedures are required to service a run-ﬂat tire. If these special tools and procedures are not used you or others could be injured and your vehicle could be damaged. Always be sure the proper tools and procedures, as described in the service manual, are used. Notice: Using liquid sealants can damage the tire valves and tire pressure monitor sensors in your vehicle’s run-ﬂat tires. This damage would not be covered by warranty. Do not use liquid sealants in your vehicle’s run-ﬂat tires. To order a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16. Appearance Care Interior Cleaning Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior. When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners speciﬁcally designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. 5-85 If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning Notice: glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles. Your dealer/retailer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. Should it become necessary, you can also obtain a product from your dealer/retailer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery. Do not clean your vehicle using the following cleaners or techniques: (cid:129) Never use a knife or any other sharp object to remove a soil from any interior surface. (cid:129) Never use a stiff brush. It can cause damage to your vehicle’s interior surfaces. (cid:129) Never apply heavy pressure or rub aggressively with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage your interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal. 5-86 (cid:129) Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps. Avoid laundry detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide. (cid:129) Do not heavily saturate your upholstery while cleaning. (cid:129) Damage to your vehicle’s interior may result from the use of many organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc. Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on ﬂoor carpet and carpeted ﬂoor mats. For soils, always try to remove them ﬁrst with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques: For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed. For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible and then vacuum. (cid:129) (cid:129) To clean, use the following instructions: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with water or club soda. 2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled. 4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the cleaning cloth remains clean. 5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water. If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a small hidden area for colorfastness ﬁrst. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface. After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the fabric or carpet. Coated Moldings These moldings are around the hatch opening in the rear area. (cid:129) When lightly soiled, wipe with a sponge or soft lint-free cloth dampened with water. (cid:129) When heavily soiled, use warm soapy water. Leather A soft cloth dampened with water can be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used. Allow the leather to dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. Never use steam to clean leather. Never use spot lifters or spot removers on leather. Many commercial leather cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect leather may permanently change the appearance and feel of your leather and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Never use shoe polish on leather. 5-87 Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry. {CAUTION: Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a clean soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used to gently remove dust and dirt. Never use spot lifters or removers on plastic surfaces. Many commercial cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect soft plastic surfaces may permanently change the appearance and feel of your interior and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Some commercial products may increase gloss on your instrument panel. The increase in gloss may cause annoying reﬂections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cargo Cover and Convenience Net Wash with warm water and mild detergent, rinse with cold water and tumble dry on low. Do not use chlorine bleach. 5-88 Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s ﬁnish is to keep it clean by washing it often. Notice: Certain cleaners contain chemicals that can damage the emblems or nameplates on your vehicle. Check the cleaning product label. If it states that it should not be used on plastic parts, do not use it on your vehicle or damage may occur and it would not be covered by the warranty. Do not wash the vehicle in direct sunlight. Use a car washing soap. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based or that contain acid or abrasives, as they can damage the paint, metal or plastic on your vehicle. Approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer/retailer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-94. Follow all manufacturers’ directions regarding correct product usage, necessary safety precautions and appropriate disposal of any vehicle care product. Rinse the vehicle well, before washing and after to remove all cleaning agents completely. If they are allowed to dry on the surface, they could stain. Dry the ﬁnish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter the vehicle. Avoid using high pressure washes closer than 12 inches (30 cm) to the surface of the vehicle. Use of power washers exceeding 1,200 psi (8 274 kPa) can result in damage or removal of paint and decals. Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-89. Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint ﬁnish. You can get approved cleaning products from your dealer/retailer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-94. If your vehicle has a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish, the clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish on your vehicle. 5-89 Windshield and Wiper Blades Clean the outside of the windshield with glass cleaner. Clean the rubber blades using a lint free cloth or paper towel soaked with windshield washer ﬂuid or a mild detergent. Wash the windshield thoroughly when cleaning the blades. Bugs, road grime, sap, and a buildup of vehicle wash/wax treatments may cause wiper streaking. Replace the wiper blades if they are worn or damaged. Wipers can be damaged by: (cid:129) Extreme dusty conditions (cid:129) Sand and salt (cid:129) Heat and sun (cid:129) Snow and ice, without proper removal Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s ﬁnish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint ﬁnish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts. 5-90 If you use a glass treatment and/or Removable Roof Panel Notice: conditioner that contains ethyl alcohol or ethyl sulfate on the roof panel, you could damage the panel. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Only use a GM-approved glass cleaner on the roof panel. Special care is necessary when cleaning, removing, and/or storing the roof panel. Flush with water to remove dust and dirt, then dry

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2008 Chevrolet Corvette Owners Manual