Braking .........................................................4-4
Antilock Brake System (ABS) ...........................4-5
Braking in Emergencies ...................................4-6
Traction Control System (TCS) .........................4-6
Active Handling System ...................................4-7
Limited-Slip Rear Axle .....................................4-9
Selective Ride Control ...................................4-10
Steering ......................................................4-11
Off-Road Recovery .......................................4-13
Passing .......................................................4-13
Loss of Control .............................................4-13
Racing or Other Competitive Driving ................4-15
Driving at Night ............................................4-16
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads ..................4-16
Before Leaving on a Long Trip .......................4-18
Highway Hypnosis ........................................4-18
Hill and Mountain Roads ................................4-18
Winter Driving ..............................................4-19
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud,
Ice, or Snow .............................................4-23
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out .................4-24
Loading Your Vehicle ....................................4-24
Towing ..........................................................4-29
Towing Your Vehicle .....................................4-29
Recreational Vehicle Towing ...........................4-29
Towing a Trailer ...........................................4-29
4-1
Drunk Driving
{CAUTION:
Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking. Do not drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.
Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle
Defensive Driving Defensive driving means “always expect the unexpected.” The first step in driving defensively is to wear your safety belt — See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1-9.
{CAUTION:
Assume that other road users (pedestrians, bicyclists, and other drivers) are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do and be ready. In addition:
(cid:129) Allow enough following distance between
you and the driver in front of you.
(cid:129) Focus on the task of driving.
Driver distraction can cause collisions resulting in injury or possible death. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.
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Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a global tragedy. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: judgment, muscular coordination, vision, and attentiveness. Police records show that almost 40 percent of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 17,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with about 250,000 people injured. For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological, and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive.
Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.
Control of a Vehicle The following three systems help to control your vehicle while driving — brakes, steering, and accelerator. At times, as when driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. Meaning, you can lose control of your vehicle. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6 and Active Handling System on page 4-7. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.
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Braking See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-39. Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your vehicle’s engine ever stops while you are driving, brake normally but do not pump the brakes. If you do, the pedal could get harder to push down. If the engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it can take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Under certain weather or operating conditions, occasional brake squeak, squeal, or other noise might be heard with your vehicle’s performance braking system. This brake system is designed for superior fade resistance and consistent operation using high performance brake pads. Brake noise is normal and does not affect system performance. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.
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Antilock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start the engine and begin to drive away, ABS will check itself. You might hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you might even notice that the brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.
If there is a problem with ABS, this warning light will stay on. See Antilock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-40.
Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel.
ABS can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As you brake, the computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: ABS does not change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply the brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have ABS. Using ABS Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let antilock work for you. You might hear a motor or clicking noise and feel the brake pedal move a little during a stop, but this is normal.
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The SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM message and the TCS warning light will come on to let you know if there is a problem with your TCS system. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55.
When this light and the SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM message are on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly. The TCS system automatically comes on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the TCS system off if you ever need to.
Braking in Emergencies With ABS, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.
Traction Control System (TCS) Your vehicle has a traction control system called TCS that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that the rear wheels are spinning too much or are beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system works the rear brakes and reduces engine power (by closing the throttle and managing engine spark) to limit wheel spin. The TRACTION SYSTEM ACTIVE message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when the TCS system is limiting wheel spin. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55. You may feel or hear the system working, but this is normal. If your vehicle is in cruise control when the TCS system begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may re-engage the cruise control. See Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever on page 3-8.
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To turn the system off, press the button located on the console.
You can turn the system on or off at any time by pressing the ACTIVE HANDLING button. The DIC will display the appropriate message when you push the button. Notice: When traction control is turned off, or Competitive Driving Mode is active, it is possible to lose traction. If you attempt to shift with the rear wheels spinning with a loss of traction, it is possible to cause damage to the transmission. Do not attempt to shift when the rear wheels do not have traction. Damage caused by misuse of the vehicle is not covered. See your warranty book for additional information. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for more information.
Active Handling System The Active Handling System is a computer controlled system that helps the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle in difficult driving conditions. This is accomplished by selectively applying any one of the vehicle’s brakes. When you first start your vehicle during cold winter weather and begin to drive away, the message ACTIVE HANDLING WARMING UP may be displayed in the DIC. This is normal. You can acknowledge this message by pressing the RESET button. The Active Handling System performance is affected until the message, ACTIVE HANDLING READY, is displayed in the DIC. The ACTIVE HANDLING CALIBRATING message may be displayed in the DIC and the instrument panel cluster light will be on after exceeding 18 mph (30 km/h) for 10 seconds. The Active Handling System is off until the ACTIVE HANDLING READY message is displayed. This could take up to 15 minutes. The ACTIVE HANDLING message will come on when the system is operating. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55 for more information. You may also feel or hear the system working. This is normal.
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The SERVICE ACTIVE HANDLING SYSTEM message will be displayed, the instrument cluster light will come on, and a chime will sound to let you know if there is a problem with the system.
To turn the system off, press the ACTIVE HANDLING button on the console for five seconds. You can turn the system on at any time by pressing the button. The DIC will display the appropriate message when you push the button.
See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55 for more information. When this light and the SERVICE ACTIVE HANDLING SYSTEM message are on, the system is not operational. Adjust your driving accordingly. The Active Handling System comes on automatically whenever you start your vehicle. To help maintain directional control of the vehicle, you should always leave the system on. You can turn the system off if you ever need to. If you turn the Active Handling System off, the Traction Control System will also be turned off. Adjust your driving accordingly.
If the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) system detects a flat tire and the Driver Information Center (DIC) displays TIRE FLAT, or if the TPM system is malfunctioning and the DIC displays SERVICE TIRE MONITOR, the Active Handling System will be affected as follows:
The Active Handling System cannot be turned off by the driver. If the Active Handling System is off, it will be turned on automatically.
(cid:129) Competitive Driving Mode is unavailable.
The Active Handling System will feel different in aiding and maintaining directional control.
4-8
(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Competitive Driving Mode The driver can select this optional handling mode by pressing the ACTIVE HANDLING button on the console two times within a five second time period. COMPETITIVE DRIVING MODE will be displayed in the DIC. Competitive Driving Mode allows the driver to have full control of the rear wheels while the Active Handling System helps maintain directional control of the vehicle by selective brake application. This involves less intervention than with both the Active Handling System and Traction Control Systems on. The instrument cluster light will not be on. The Traction Control System will not be operating. Adjust your driving accordingly. When you press the ACTIVE HANDLING button again, or press the Acc. button, the Active Handling and Traction Control Systems will be on. The TRACTION SYSTEM AND ACTIVE HANDLING-ON message will be displayed temporarily in the DIC and a chime will be heard.
Notice: When traction control is turned off, or Competitive Driving Mode is active, it is possible to lose traction. If you attempt to shift with the rear wheels spinning with a loss of traction, it is possible to cause damage to the transmission. Do not attempt to shift when the rear wheels do not have traction. Damage caused by misuse of the vehicle is not covered. See your warranty book for additional information.
Limited-Slip Rear Axle Your limited-slip rear axle can give you additional traction on snow, mud, ice, sand or gravel. It works like a standard axle most of the time, but when one of the rear wheels has no traction and the other does, this feature will allow the wheel with traction to move the vehicle.
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Selective Ride Control You may have a ride control system on your vehicle called Magnetic Selective Ride Control. The system provides the following performance benefits: (cid:129) Reduced Impact Harshness
Improved Road Isolation Improved High-Speed Stability Improved Handling Response
(cid:129) Better Control of Body Ride Motions
This knob is located on the center console. Turn it to select the suspension of your choice.
TOUR: Use for normal city and highway driving. This setting provides a smooth, soft ride.
SPORT: Use where road conditions or personal preference demand more control. This setting provides more “feel”, or response to the road conditions. You can select a setting at any time. Based on road conditions, steering wheel angle and your vehicle speed, the system automatically adjusts to provide the best ride and handling. Select a new setting whenever driving conditions change. Three Driver Information Center (DIC) messages (SERVICE RIDE CONTROL, SHOCKS INOPERATIVE and MAXIMUM SPEED 80 MPH (129 KM/H) display when a malfunction occurs with the Selective Ride Control system. Refer to DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55 for more information.
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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Magnetic Speed Variable Assist Steering Your vehicle has a steering system that continuously adjusts the effort you feel when steering at all vehicle speeds. It provides ease when parking, yet a firm, solid feel at highway speeds. Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here is why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you will understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems — steering and acceleration — have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you will want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while the front wheels are straight ahead.
4-11
Try to adjust your speed so you can drive through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3. Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply the brakes. See Braking on page 4-4. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.
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An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.
Off-Road Recovery You may find that your vehicle’s right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you are driving.
Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing, we suggest the following tips:
Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait.
(cid:129) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane.
(cid:129) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to
pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.
(cid:129) Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle. (cid:129) When you are being passed, ease to the right.
Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.
4-13
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.
(cid:129) Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.
Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If your traction control system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs.
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Vehicles with the Z51 performance package have greaseable outer ends on both of the rear toe-links. Under normal use, lubrication should be performed as described in the maintenance schedule. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. If you use the vehicle for racing, lubrication should be performed at the end of each racing day. See your dealer/retailer for lubrication and make sure any needed repairs are made at once. Proper procedures for performing these services can be found in the service manual. See Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16.
If you use your vehicle for racing or other
Racing or Other Competitive Driving See your warranty book before using your vehicle for racing or other competitive driving. Notice: competitive driving, the engine may use more oil than it would with normal use. Low oil levels can damage the engine. For information on how to add oil, see Engine Oil on page 5-17. Z06 Only: Be sure to check the oil level often during racing or other competitive driving and keep the level at or near the upper mark that shows the proper operating range on the engine oil dipstick. Except Z06: Be sure to check the oil level often during racing or other competitive driving and keep the level at or near 1 quart (1 L) above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range on the engine oil dipstick. After the competitive driving, remove excess oil so that the level on the dipstick is not above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range.
4-15
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.
Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside
rearview mirror.
(cid:129) Slow down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles because your headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.
(cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle
clean — inside and out.
(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or
curves.
4-16
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.
Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:129) Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled. (cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires
on page 5-58.
4-17
Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows
clean — inside and outside?
(cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to recommended pressure?
(cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have
up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead
and to the sides.
(cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments
often.
Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep your vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:129) Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling
system, and transmission.
(cid:129) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a
lower gear.
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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) {CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
(cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).
(cid:129) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:129) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:129) You might want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 5-58.
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(cid:129) Driving On Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful.
What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has a traction control system, slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you might want to turn the traction control system off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6. The Active Handling System might also activate. See Active Handling System on page 4-7.
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The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-5. (cid:129) Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. (cid:129) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until
you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:
Turn on the hazard warning flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow.
(cid:129) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
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(cid:129) (cid:129) {CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-24. If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-79.
4-23
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn the traction control system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. For a manual transmission, shift slowly between either FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), allowing the wheels to stop before shifting into gear. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
4-24
Tire and Loading Information Label
Label Example
A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar) of your vehicle. With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door latch. This label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D).
For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-58 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certification Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight
of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.
2. Determine the combined weight of the driver
and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
4. The resulting figure equals the available
amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
4-25
5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.
6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load
from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. Your vehicle is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer.
4-26
Example 1
Item
Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight @ 150 lbs (68 kg) x 1 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =
Total
400 lbs (181 kg)
150 lbs (68 kg)
250 lbs (113 kg)
Example 2
Example 3
Item
Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight @ 150 lbs (68 kg) x 2 = Available Cargo Weight =
Total
Item
400 lbs (181 kg)
300 lbs (136 kg)
100 lbs (45 kg)
Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight @ 200 lbs (91 kg) x 2 = Available Cargo Weight =
Total
400 lbs (181 kg)
400 lbs (181 kg)
0 lbs (0 kg)
Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.
4-27
Certification Label
A vehicle specific Certification label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. Do not load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. See “Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit” earlier in this section.
4-28
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.
{CAUTION:
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.
(cid:129) Put things in the rear area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.
(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like
suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
(cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child
restraint in your vehicle.
(cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
Towing
Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-8.
Recreational Vehicle Towing Notice: Dolly towing or dinghy towing your vehicle may cause damage because of reduced ground clearance. Always put your vehicle on a flatbed truck. Your vehicle was neither designed nor intended to be towed with any of its wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, see “Towing Your Vehicle” earlier in this section.
Towing a Trailer Your vehicle is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer.
4-29
✍ NOTES
4-30
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your
Vehicle ......................................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-6
California Fuel
...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-11
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-12
Hood Release ..............................................5-13
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-14
Engine Oil ...................................................5-17
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-23
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-25
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-27
Manual Transmission Fluid .............................5-27
Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-27
Engine Coolant .............................................5-28
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-31
Engine Overheating .......................................5-31
Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode ........................................5-33
Cooling System ............................................5-34
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-39
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-41
Brakes ........................................................5-42
Battery ........................................................5-45
Jump Starting ...............................................5-46
Rear Axle .......................................................5-51
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-51
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-52
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting ............5-52
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-52
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and
Parking Lamps ..........................................5-53
Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps ............5-54
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-55
Windshield Replacement .................................5-55
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-55
Tires ..............................................................5-58
Winter Tires .................................................5-59
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-60
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-62
Run-Flat Tires ..............................................5-64
5-1
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-66
High-Speed Operation ...................................5-67
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-68
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-69
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-71
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-72
Buying New Tires .........................................5-73
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-74
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-75
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-76
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-76
Tire Chains ..................................................5-79
Lifting Your Vehicle .......................................5-80
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-84
Appearance Care ............................................5-85
Interior Cleaning ...........................................5-85
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-86
Coated Moldings ...........................................5-87
Leather .......................................................5-87
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic
Surfaces ..................................................5-88
Cargo Cover and Convenience Net .................5-88
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-88
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-88
Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-89
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-89
Finish Care ..................................................5-89
Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-90
Removable Roof Panel ..................................5-91
Convertible Top ............................................5-91
Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels
and Trim ..................................................5-92
Tires ...........................................................5-92
Finish Damage .............................................5-93
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-93
Fiberglass Springs (Composite Springs) ...........5-93
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-93
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-94
Vehicle Identification ......................................5-95
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-95
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-95
Electrical System ............................................5-95
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-95
Headlamp Wiring ..........................................5-96
Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-96
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-96
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-96
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..........................5-96
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................5-100
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-103
5-2
Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-58.
5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless entry transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.
5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work
{CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
(cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and
other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16.
Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-57. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-15.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-95.
Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine (VIN Code W), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 7.0L V8 engine (VIN Code E), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. For best performance, use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 93. In an emergency, you can use regular unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 or higher. If 87 octane fuel is used, do not perform any aggressive driving maneuvers such as wide open throttle applications. You might also hear audible spark knock during acceleration. Refill the tank with premium fuel as soon as possible to avoid damaging the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.
5-5
Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information.
California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-43. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty.
Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels.
5-6
Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.
Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.
5-7
Filling the Tank
{CAUTION:
Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.
5-8
The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
The fuel door release button is located on the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. Push the button to release the fuel door.
There is also a manual fuel door release tab. It is located against the upper trim in the rear compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Pull the tab to release the fuel door.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise.
5-9
While refueling, let the cap hang by the tether below the fuel fill opening.
{CAUTION:
Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned.This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-89. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-43. The CHECK GAS CAP message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55 for more information.
5-10
{CAUTION:
If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-43.
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
{CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
(cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved
containers.
(cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while
pumping fuel.
5-11
Checking Things Under the Hood
{CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
5-12
Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:
1. Pull the hood release lever with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle below the instrument panel on the driver’s side.
2. Go to the side of the vehicle and pull up on the rear
edge of the hood, near the windshield.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then, just pull the hood down and close it firmly.
5-13
Engine Compartment Overview If your vehicle has the 6.2L LS3 V8 engine and you are facing the front, when you open the hood, here is what you will see:
5-14
A. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir (If Equipped).
See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-27.
B. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-41.
C. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-42.
D. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Engine
Coolant on page 5-28.
E. Engine Air Cleaner/Filters. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25.
F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering
Fluid on page 5-39.
G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
H. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
I. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-100.
J. Passenger Compartment Air Filter (Out of View).
See Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-31.
K. Battery. See Battery on page 5-45.
5-15
If your vehicle has the 7.0L LS7 V8 engine and you are facing the driver’s side of the vehicle, when you open the hood, here is what you will see:
5-16
A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25.
B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering
Fluid on page 5-39.
C. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-100.
D. Remote Positive Terminal (Out of View). See Battery
on page 5-45.
E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
F. Dry Sump Engine Oil Tank. See “Changing Engine Oil and Filter (Z06 Only)” Engine Oil on page 5-17.
G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
H. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Engine
Coolant on page 5-28.
I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-41.
J. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-42.
K. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir. See Hydraulic
Clutch on page 5-27.
Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil (Except Z06) If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message on the Driver Information Center (DIC) comes on, check the engine oil level right away. For more information, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-49. You should check the engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It is a good idea to check the engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a lint-free paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way.
3. Remove the dipstick again, keeping the tip down and read the level on the cross-hatched area. Oil levels that fall in the cross-hatched area are normal.
4. Push the dipstick back in all the way.
5-17
When to Add Engine Oil (Except Z06)
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.
If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of
the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the
recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil
to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see
Capacities and Specifications on page 5-103.
See Racing or Other Competitive Driving on page 4-15
for additional information on engine oil.
Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has
so much oil that the oil level gets above the
cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating
range, the engine could be damaged.
5-18
Checking Engine Oil (Z06 Only)
A. Engine Oil Dipstick B. Engine Oil Fill Cap It is a good idea to check the engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. The dipstick is located on the dry sump engine oil tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the dry sump engine oil tank.
Z06 models have a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when checking the engine oil level. Follow this procedure closely when checking the engine oil level. The engine oil level must be checked when the engine is warm. Cold oil level in the dry sump tank may not indicate the actual amount of oil in the system. With this system, engine oil is contained in an external tank, separate from the engine. Under normal operating conditions, the oil pan under the engine does not store any oil. If the vehicle has been parked for an extended period without the engine being started, some oil will seep back into the oil pan, reducing the amount of oil held in the dry sump tank and there could be no engine oil at all showing on the dipstick. This is normal since the dipstick is designed to read engine oil level only after the engine has run long enough to reach normal operating temperature. Do not add engine oil based on cold engine dipstick readings. The engine oil level on the dipstick will also be inaccurate if checked while the engine is running. 1. To obtain an accurate engine oil level reading,
warm up the engine to at least 175°F (80°C). Cold oil will not give a correct oil level reading. 2. Once the engine is warm, turn off the engine.
Checking the oil while the engine is running will result in an incorrect oil level reading.
5-19
3. Wait at least five minutes (but not more than 20 minutes) to allow oil to drain and settle in the engine.
4. Remove the dipstick from the external engine oil tank and clean it with a lint-free paper towel or a cloth. Re-insert the dipstick into the external oil tank, pushing it all the way in until it stops.
5. Remove the dipstick from the oil tank and read the level on the cross-hatched area. Oil levels that fall in the cross-hatched area are normal.
When to Add Engine Oil (Z06 Only)
See Racing or Other Competitive Driving on page 4-15
for additional information on engine oil.
Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has
so much oil that the oil level gets above the
cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating
range, the engine could be damaged.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the external engine oil tank and fill cap.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back into the oil tank when you are through.
If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil through the oil fill cap opening in the oil tank. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-103.
5-20
Changing Engine Oil and Filter (Z06 Only) Z06 models have a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when changing the engine oil and filter. Follow this procedure closely when changing the engine oil and filter.
1. Remove the two engine oil drain plugs from the
bottom of the engine oil pan. One drain plug drains the external oil tank via the oil transfer supply line. The other drain plug drains residual oil from the crankcase sump. Allow the oil to drain.
2. Once the oil has been drained from the engine, remove the engine oil filter and allow the oil to drain.
3. Re-install both drain plugs and tighten them to
18 lb ft (25 Y).
4. Replace the oil filter and tighten it to 18 lb ft
(25 Y). See Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13 for the correct filter.
5. Oil is filled through the opening in the top of the external engine oil tank. Remove the oil fill cap.
6. Add eight quarts (7.6 L) of oil to the oil tank. See
Capacities and Specifications on page 5-103. 7. Install the oil fill cap and insert the dipstick, if
removed.
A. Engine Oil Drain Plugs B. Seals
8. Start the engine and let it run at idle for at least 15 seconds. This will circulate the fresh engine oil through the lubrication system.
9. Shut off the engine and check the oil level as
described under “Checking Engine Oil (Z06 Only).”
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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
If you use oils that do not have the
Notice:
GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause
engine damage not covered by your warranty.
(cid:129) SAE 5W-30
As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
(cid:129) Oils meeting these
requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
Look for three things: (cid:129) GM4718M
Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M.
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Look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Your vehicle’s engine is filled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle.
Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM4718M are all you need for good performance and engine protection.
Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.
Z06 models have a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when changing the engine oil and filter. See Engine Oil on page 5-17. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.
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How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message after an oil change: 1. Press the TRIP button so the OIL LIFE percentage
is displayed.
2. Press RESET and hold for two seconds. OIL LIFE
REMAINING 100% will appear.
If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.
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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filters. Notice: cleaner/filter intake and water enters the engine air cleaner/filter housing, you could damage your vehicle’s engine. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not spray water into the engine air cleaner/filter intake and/or housing.
If you spray water into the engine air
If you are cleaning your vehicle with the hood open, take care not to spray water directly near the filter opening of the air cleaner, as shown in the illustration, as this could damage your vehicle’s engine. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters Inspect the air cleaner/filters at the Maintenance II intervals and replace them at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filters at each engine oil change.
5-25
How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters To inspect the air cleaner/filters, remove the filters from the vehicle and lightly shake the filters to release loose dust and dirt. If the filters remain caked with dirt, new filters are required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filters, do the following:
1. Remove the screws holding the filter element in
place.
2. Pull on latches found on either side of the filter.
5-26
3. Inspect or replace the filter. See Maintenance
Replacement Parts on page 6-13.
4. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to replace the air
cleaner/filter cover.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ filter off.
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can
Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. There is a special procedure for checking and changing the transmission fluid. Because this procedure is difficult, you should have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. Contact your dealer/retailer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.
Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.
Manual Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the manual transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11 for the proper fluid to use.
Hydraulic Clutch It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid will not correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
5-27
When to Check and What to Use
The hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid to use. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-8 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. How to Check and Add Fluid Make sure the fluid level is at the MIN (Minimum) line on the side of the reservoir. If it is not, remove the cap and add the proper fluid until the level reaches the MIN line.
5-28
Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-31. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature.
Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.
Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
(cid:129) What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
If you use an improper coolant mixture,
Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11 for more information.
If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives
5-29
Checking Coolant
The engine coolant surge
tank is located toward the
rear of the engine
compartment on the
driver’s side of the vehicle.
See Engine Compartment
Overview on page 5-14
for more information
on location.
{CAUTION:
Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark. The FULL COLD mark is on the front of the coolant surge tank. Do not overfill the surge tank. Too much coolant can result in an overflow when the fluid is hot.
5-30
Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.
Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on the instrument panel cluster and a COOLANT OVER TEMPERATURE message on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-42 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55 for more information.
5-31
If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.
If your engine catches fire because you
Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.