2004 Chevrolet Corvette Owners Manual

on the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23
for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

5-31

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

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1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. You can remove

the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter turn and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper

mixture, to the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank.

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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan(s). By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

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Power Steering Fluid

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. There are markings on both sides of the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.

• When the engine

compartment is hot, the level should be at the HOT mark.

• When the engine

compartment is cool, the level should be at the FULL COLD mark.

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for reservoir location. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow

the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is

leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

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Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above the MIN mark on the reservoir. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is between the MIN and MAX marks. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-82.

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(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment As you make brake stops, your disc brakes automatically adjust for wear.

Z06 models are equipped with high performance front brake linings designed for improved brake performance under severe use. They will normally exhibit some low speed noise and you may notice an increase in the amount of brake dust.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco® battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery. For battery replacement, see your dealer or the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service and Owner Publications in Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-11. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

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Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-41
for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-86.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

If you try to start your vehicle by pushing

Notice: or pulling it, you could damage your vehicle. Do not push or pull your vehicle to start it; instead, use the jump starting procedure in this manual to start your vehicle when the battery has run down.

5-41

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brakes.

5-42

If you leave your radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

5-43

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

5-44

8. Now connect the black

negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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If the jumper cables are removed in the

Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

5-46

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use To add lubricant when the level is low, use SAE 75W-90
Synthetic Gear Lubricant (GM Part No. 12378261) or equivalent meeting GM Specification 9986115. To completely refill after draining, add 4 ounces (118 ml) of Limited-Slip Differential Lubricant Additive (GM Part No. 1052358) or equivalent. Then fill to the bottom of the filler plug hole with the Synthetic Gear Lubricant.

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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulb, see Bulb Replacement on page 5-48. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer’s service department.

Headlamps 1. The headlamp doors need to be halfway open.

Turn the headlamps on, then quickly back to the parking lamps setting. You may have to do this a few times to get the half-open position.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

5-48

You can also open the headlamp doors manually by turning the adjuster counterclockwise.

2. Remove the screws on each side of the headlamp

bezel.

3. Open the hood. 4. To remove the bezel, pull the sides slightly outward

and tilt the bezel forward. Pull the clip centered above the lens outward. Be careful not to scratch the paint on the vehicle.

5. Reach behind the lamp and turn the bulb

counterclockwise to remove it. Don’t touch the halogen bulbs. The inner bulb is the high beam and the outer bulb is the low beam.

6. Disconnect the desired bulb from the wiring harness. 7. Reverse the steps listed previously with a new bulb.

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Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps

A. Back-Up Lamp B. Inboard Taillamp C. Outboard Taillamp

5-50

1. Remove the screws. 2. Pull the taillamp housing assembly out.

3. To remove the socket with the bulb, squeeze the

tab while you turn the socket counterclockwise.

4. Remove the bulb from the socket. 5. Reverse the steps listed previously with a new bulb.

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Back-Up Lamps You can access the back-up lamps through the inboard taillamp opening. See Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps on page 5-50. 1. Squeeze the tab on the socket while turning it

counterclockwise to remove it from the assembly.

2. Remove the bulb from the socket. 3. Reverse the steps listed previously with a new bulb.

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

High-Beam Headlamp

Low-Beam Headlamp

Back-Up

Rear Stop/Tail and Turn Signal

9005

9006

2057

3057

For any bulb replacements or procedures not listed here, please consult your dealer.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected each time maintenance is performed. See “Wiper Blade Check” under Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. It is a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly every six months. Notice: Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield.

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To remove the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Open the hood to gain access to the windshield

wipers.

2. Lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical

position.

3. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab (C). Pull down on the blade assembly (A) to release it from the wiper arm hook (F).

4. Remove the insert from the blade assembly (A). The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notch end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab

D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook

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To install the new wiper insert:

3. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

4. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly

onto the windshield.

Installation guide:

1. Slide the insert (D), notched end last, into the end

with the two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). Plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully installed.

2. Be sure the notches are locked by the bottom

claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.

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A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The following illustration shows an example of a passenger car tire sidewall.

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A. Tire Size B. Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) C. Department of Transportation (DOT) D. Tire Identification Number (TIN) E. Tire Ply Material F. Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) G. Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size ” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) Department of Transportation (DOT): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

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(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-67.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For more information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-62 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

Tire Size Codes The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger car tire size.

A. P-Metric Tire B. Tire Width C. Aspect Ratio

D. Construction Code E. Rim Diameter F. Service Description

(A) P-Metric Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “P” as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

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(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is “70,” as shown in item “C” of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70% as high as it is wide.

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D” means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and the speed rating of a tire. The load range represents the load carrying capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from “A” to “Z”.

Tire Terminology and Definitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-62.

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Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. There are 6.9 kPa’s to one psi.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of a asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand and or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

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Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-62 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

Radial Ply tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 2/32 inch of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-65.

UTQGS: Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards, a tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-67.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs. (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

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Extended Mobility Tires (Except Z06) Your vehicle, when new, had Goodyear Extended Mobility Tires (EMT). There’s no spare tire, no tire changing equipment and no place to store a tire in the vehicle. Extended Mobility Tires perform so well without any air that a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) is used to alert you if a tire has lost pressure. If a tire goes flat, you won’t need to stop on the side of the road to change the tire. You can just keep on driving. The shorter the distance you drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance that the tire will not have to be replaced. If you drive on a deflated EMT for 50 miles (80 km) or less and at speeds of 55 mph (90 km/h) or less, there is a good chance that the tire can be repaired. The tire can operate effectively with no air pressure for up to 200 miles (320 km) at speeds up to 55 mph (90 km/h), but the tire would then have to be replaced. When a tire is filled with air, it provides a cushion between the road and the wheel. Because you won’t have this cushion when driving on a deflated tire, try to avoid potholes that could damage your wheel and require replacement of it. Some road hazards can damage a tire beyond repair. This damage could occur even before you’ve driven on the tire in a deflated condition. When a tire has been damaged, or if you’ve driven any distance on a deflated EMT, check with an authorized Goodyear EMT Service

Center to determine whether the tire can be repaired or should be replaced. To maintain your vehicle’s extended mobility feature, all replacement tires must be Extended Mobility Tires. As soon as possible, contact the nearest authorized GM or Goodyear EMT servicing facility for inspection and repair or replacement. To locate the nearest GM or Goodyear EMT servicing facility, call Roadside Assistance. For phone numbers and Roadside Assistance details see Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. You may also contact Goodyear, for the nearest authorized EMT servicing facility, by calling 1-800-789-9878.

{CAUTION:

Extended mobility tires are constructed differently than other tires and could explode during improper service. You or others could be injured or killed if you attempt to repair, replace, dismount, or mount a extended mobility tire. Let only an authorized EMT Service Center repair, replace, dismount and mount extended mobility tires.

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The valve stems on your extended mobility tires have sensors that are part of the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM). See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation (Except Z06) on page 5-64. The TPM sensors contain batteries which are designed to last for 10 years under normal driving conditions. See your dealer if you ever need to have a wheel replaced, or if the sensors ever need replacement. Notice: Using liquid sealants can damage the tire valves and tire pressure monitor sensors in your extended mobility tires. This damage would not be covered by warranty. Don’t use liquid sealants in your extended mobility tires. If you feel that winter tires are needed for your driving conditions, Goodyear Eagle M+S EMT tires are available in your original equipment sizes from an authorized Goodyear EMT retailer. These tires will improve snow traction while maintaining your vehicle’s extended mobility feature. When using winter tires on your vehicle, be sure to use them on all four wheels. See Buying New Tires on page 5-66.

Inflation - Tire Pressure The tire and loading information label, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33, for the location of your vehicle’s tire and loading information label. Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading

(cid:127) Bad wear (cid:127) Bad handling (cid:127) Bad fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Bad handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are underinflated. Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the tire and loading information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage.

Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. If your vehicle is equipped with the Tire Pressure Monitor, you can check tire inflation pressures while driving. After you’ve reached a speed of 15 mph (24 kmh) or more, press and release the GAGES button on the Driver Information Center (DIC) until the front tire pressures are displayed. Then, press and release the GAGES button for the rear tire pressures. If the display doesn’t show tire pressure, or if the SERVICE TIRE MON SYS message appears see your dealer for service. For more information, see Tire Pressure Monitor Operation (Except Z06) on page 5-64 and Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-48.

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Tire Pressure Monitor Operation (Except Z06) The Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) has a sensor on each road wheel that transmits to a receiver on the instrument panel. The system operates on a radio frequency subject to Federal Communications Commission (FCC) Rules and with Industry and Science Canada. This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause harmful interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation. This device complies with RSS–210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.

Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment. If a tire’s inflation pressure is between 5 psi (35 kPa) and 25 psi (170 kPa), you will see a message on the Driver Information Center. This message will show which tire is underinflated and two chimes will sound. An example would be LOW TIRE PRESSURE-LR. This would mean that the inflation pressure in your left rear tire is between 5 psi (35 kPa) and 25 psi (170 kPa). If the inflation pressure in the tire drops below 5 psi (35 kPa), the message would read FLAT TIRE-LR and four chimes will sound. See Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-48. The TPM will also alert you if a tire’s pressure is higher than 42 psi (290 kPa). The message will show which tire is overinflated and two chimes will sound. An example would be HIGH PRESSURE-LR. This would mean that the inflation pressure in your left rear tire is higher than 42 psi (290 kPa). See Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-48.

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If a tire pressure message appears on the Driver Information Center, stop as soon as you can. Have the tire pressures checked and set to those shown on your Tire-Loading Information label. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-62.

{CAUTION:

When the LOW TIRE PRESSURE or FLAT TIRE message is displayed on the Driver Information Center, your vehicle’s handling capabilities will be reduced during severe maneuvers. If you drive too fast, you could lose control of your vehicle. You or others could be injured. Don’t drive over 55 mph (90 km/h) when the LOW TIRE PRESSURE or FLAT TIRE message is displayed. Drive cautiously, and check your tire pressures as soon as you can.

Tire Rotation The tires on your vehicle are different sizes front to rear. Due to this, your tires should not be rotated. Each tire and wheel should be used only in the position it is in.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: • You can see the indicators at three or more places

• You can see cord or fabric showing through the

around the tire.

tire’s rubber.

• The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged

deep enough to show cord or fabric. • The tire has a bump, bulge or split. • The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires your vehicle needs, look at the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33, for an example of the label and where it is located on your vehicle. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, GM recommends that you get tires with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, load range, speed rating, traction, ride, tire pressure monitoring system performance and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

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{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle) or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle) may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size and type tires on all four wheels.

If your vehicle is equipped with Extended Mobility Tires and you feel that winter tires are needed, see Extended Mobility Tires (Except Z06) on page 5-61.

{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

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If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to the body and chassis.

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

{CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or the threads of the wheel nuts. If you do, the wheel nuts might come loose and the wheel could fall off, causing a crash.

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{CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts.

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead

Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

If your vehicle has magnesium wheels,

Magnesium Wheels Notice: moisture on or around the mounting surface of the magnesium wheel will cause corrosion and damage to the wheel. To help prevent this, a magnesium wheel uses two rubber O-rings. One goes on the inboard side of the wheel and the other on the back of the center hubcap. When you put a magnesium wheel back on, be sure the O-rings are correctly installed. On the inboard side, of the wheel, work the O-ring into the groove. When properly installed, this O-ring fits snugly. The other O-ring goes around the retaining legs of the center cap. Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

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Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

Lifting Your Vehicle

{CAUTION:

Don’t use tire chains. There’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

Lifting a vehicle can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to lift your vehicle. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever

in PARK (P), or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).

3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks in front of and behind the wheels.

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{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

{CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to place the jack in the proper location before raising the vehicle.

If you ever use a jack to lift your Corvette, such as to display it at a show, follow the instructions that came with the jack, and be sure to use the correct lifting points to avoid damaging your vehicle. Notice: Lifting your vehicle improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To lift your vehicle properly, follow the advice in this part. To help prevent vehicle damage: (cid:127) Be sure to place a block or pad between the

jack and the vehicle.

(cid:127) Make sure the jack you’re using spans at least

two crossmember ribs. Lift only in the areas shown in the following pictures.

For additional information, see your dealer and the Chevrolet Corvette service manual.

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(cid:127) Lifting From the Front

The front lifting point can be accessed for either the driver’s or passenger’s side of the vehicle, behind the front tires.

1. Locate the lifting point (B) on either side of your

vehicle to jack the vehicle according to the illustration shown.

2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack

and the vehicle.

3. Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack

spans at least two of the crossmember ribs (A).

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Lifting From the Rear

The rear lifting point can be accessed from the rear of the vehicle, on either the driver’s or passenger’s side.

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1. Locate the lifting point to jack your vehicle according

to the illustration shown.

2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack

and the vehicle.

3. Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack

spans at least two of the crossmember ribs.

For more information, see Doing Your Own Service Work on page 5-3.

If a Tire Goes Flat Your Corvette has no spare tire, no tire changing equipment and no place to store a tire. It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. See Tires on page 5-55. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. If your vehicle has Extended Mobility Tires (EMT), you won’t need to stop on the side of the road to change a flat tire. EMT tires can operate effectively with no air pressure. If you drive on a deflated EMT for 50 miles (80 km) or less and at speeds of 55 mph (90 km/h) or less, there is a good chance that the tire can be repaired. Contact the nearest authorized Chevrolet or Goodyear EMT servicing facility, as soon as possible, to have the flat tire inspected and repaired or replaced. For more information, see Extended Mobility Tires (Except Z06) on page 5-61.

{CAUTION:

Special tools and procedures are required to service an Extended Mobility Tire (EMT). If these special tools and procedures aren’t used you or others could be injured and your vehicle could be damaged. Always be sure the proper tools and procedures, as described in the service manual, are used.

To order a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-11.

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Z06 models do not have Extended Mobility Tires. If a Z06 model tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place and stopping. Then do this: 1. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. 2. Set the parking brake firmly. 3. Put the shift lever (manual transmission) in

REVERSE (R).

4. Turn off the engine. 5. Inspect the flat tire. If the tire has been separated from the wheel or has damaged sidewalls or large tears that allow rapid air loss, call a tire repair facility. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If the flat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the tire inflator kit may be used to repair the damaged tire temporarily. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant to seal small punctures in the

tread area of the tire. The flat tire is then inflated to at least 26 psi (179 kPa) and driven to evenly distribute the tire sealant. The tire pressure is checked after driving for a maximum of 10 minutes to see if the slow leak has been stopped. If the tire pressure is 19 psi (131 kPa) or more, inflate the tire up to the standard operating pressure as shown on the Tire Pressure Label found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-62. You should have the damaged tire repaired as soon as possible. The tire sealant is a temporary repair only. For more information regarding the tire inflator kit see “Tire Inflator Kit (Z06 Only)” following this section. Notice: 19 psi (131 kPa), the vehicle should not be driven further. Damage to the tire may be severe and the sealant will not be effective. Contact Roadside Assistance. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index.

If the tire pressure has dropped below

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Tire Inflator Kit (Z06 Only) Every Z06 model with P295/35ZR18 and P265/40ZR17
tires, when new, was equipped with a tire inflator kit. The repair kit contains a detailed instruction card that outlines step by step the temporary repair procedure. Be sure to read and follow all the tire inflator kit instructions. The kit also includes:

A. Air Compressor B. Tire Sealant C. Sealant Filling Hose D. Air Compressor Accessory Plug E. Air Compressor

Inflator Hose

F. Air Pressure Gage G. Sealant Filling

Hose Plug

H. Valve Core Remover I. Spare Valve Core J. 55-mph Label

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Air Compressor The air compressor included in the tire inflator kit, was designed exclusively for the Z06 Model equipped with P295/35ZR18 and P265/40ZR17 tires. After the sealant has been injected into the flat tire, use the air compressor to inflate the tire to at least 26 psi (179 kPa). Instructions for connecting and using the air compressor are located on the air compressor.

Tire Sealant The kit contains a liquid sealant that when injected into a flat tire, may temporarily repair nail holes or cuts in the tread area of the tire. The tire sealant cannot repair tire damage caused while driving on a flat tire or a tire that has had a “blow out” or a tire that has punctures in the sidewall areas. The tire sealant solution is a one-time use application for one tire only. Check the tire sealant expiration date; the sealant may not be as effective beyond the expiration date. The tire sealant can be peeled off easily after drying. Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle is equipped with Extended Mobility Tires or tire pressure monitors. The tire sealant can damage tire pressure monitor sensors. See “Extended Mobility Tires” in the Index.

A. Inflating Hose B. Air Pressure Gage

C. ON/OFF Switch D. Air Compressor Plug

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Notice: The car engine must be running to avoid draining the battery while running the air compressor. Follow the proper steps to be sure your vehicle will not move. See Parking Your Vehicle (Manual Transmission) on page 2-35.

{CAUTION:

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle with the engine running, if the shift lever is not in NEUTRAL (N) with the parking brake firmly set (manual transmission). Your vehicle can roll or move suddenly even when on fairly level ground. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, always set your parking brake and move the shift lever to NEUTRAL (N) when you start or idle your engine.

{CAUTION:

Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.

{CAUTION:

Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate the tire to its recommended pressure. Do not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).

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If 26 psi (179 kPa) tire pressure cannot be

Notice: Do not allow the air compressor to operate continuously for more than six minutes to help prevent damage from overheating. Notice: reached after six minutes the vehicle should not be driven further. Damage to the tire is severe and the sealant will not be effective. Remove the air compressor plug from the accessory power outlet and unscrew the inflating hose from the tire valve. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If 26 psi (179 kPa) tire pressure is reached in six minutes or less, disconnect the air compressor and attach the enclosed maximum speed label to the inside upper left corner of the windshield or to the face of the radio/clock.

The maximum speed label reminds you to drive cautiously and not to exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) until you have the damaged tire inspected and repaired.

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Place the air compressor pump and accessories into the inflator kit case and store in the hatch/trunk compartment area of your vehicle. Tire Inflator Kit Storage The tire inflator kit is stored in the rear hatch/trunk area of your vehicle.

1. Remove the elastic cord (A) from around the retaining hook (B) and slide the kit out from under the elastic band (C) that is secured to the floor of the hatch/trunk area.

2. Unwrap the elastic cord (A) from around the handle of the tire inflator kit. Open the tire inflator kit case by lifting up the two tabs located on either side of the kit handle.

To Stow the Tire Inflator Kit:

{CAUTION:

Storing the tire inflator kit or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store the tire inflator kit in the proper place.

1. Loop the elastic cord (A) around the handle of the

tire inflator kit.

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Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you are cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: • Gasoline • Benzene • Naphtha • Carbon Tetrachloride • Acetone • Paint Thinner • Turpentine • Lacquer Thinner • Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous — some more than others — and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

2. Insert the tire inflator kit under the elastic band (C) that is secured to the floor of the hatch/trunk area of your vehicle.

3. Wrap the elastic cord (A) around the retaining

hook (B).

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Do not use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: • Alcohol • Laundry Soap • Bleach • Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-90.

Here are some cleaning tips: • Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. • Clean up stains as soon as you can – before

they set.

• Carefully scrape off any excess stain. • Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean

area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

• If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean

the entire area immediately or it will set.

Cleaning Coated Moldings These moldings are around the hatch opening in the rear area. • When lightly soiled, wipe with a sponge or soft

lint-free cloth dampened with water.

• When heavily soiled, use warm soapy water.

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Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. • For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. • Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

• Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.

Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Cleaning the Security Shade and Convenience Net Wash with warm water and mild detergent, rinse with cold water and tumble dry on low. Do not use chlorine bleach. Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-90. Notice: cleaning glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger and the integrated radio antenna. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner.

If you use abrasive cleaners when

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Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

{CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Do not wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-90. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting.

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If you drive your vehicle through an

High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. Notice: automatic car wash that does not have enough clearance for the undercarriage and/or wide rear tires, you could damage your vehicle. Verify with the manager of the car wash that your vehicle will fit before entering the car wash or use a touchless car wash. Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow previous instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.”

Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-90. Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish on your vehicle. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.

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Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Cleaning Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. If you use a glass treatment or conditioner containing ethyl alcohol or ethyl sulfate on your glass, be sure to remove the acrylic roof panel, if so equipped. These products may damage the panel. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.

Cleaning Removable Roof Panel Special care is necessary when cleaning, removing and/or storing the roof panel. • Flush with water to remove dust and dirt, then dry

the panel.

• Clean the panel with GM Glass Cleaner. Leave the cleaner on the panel for one minute, then wipe the panel with a soft, lint-free cloth.

• Do not use abrasive cleaning materials If water drops are frequently allowed to dry on roof panel, impurities in the water will adhere to the top. These impurities may etch or mar the finish. When the panel gets wet, you should dry it off. Notice: If you use a glass treatment and/or conditioner that contains ethyl alcohol or ethyl sulfate on the roof panel, you could damage the panel. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Only use a GM-approved glass cleaner on the roof panel.

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Cleaning the Convertible Top Your convertible top should be cleaned often. If you use an automatic car wash, use one with water jets and hanging cloths. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. When you hand wash the top, do it in partial shade. Use a mild soap, lukewarm water and a soft sponge. A chamois or cloth may leave lint on the top, and a brush can chafe the threads in the top fabric. Do not use detergents, harsh cleaners, solvents or bleaching agents. Wet the entire vehicle and wash the top evenly to avoid spots or rings. Let the soap remain on the fabric for a few minutes. When the top is really dirty, use a mild foam-type cleaner. Your dealer has a Convertible Top Cleaner and Water Repellent. Thoroughly rinse the entire vehicle, then let the top dry in direct sunlight. To protect the convertible top: • After you wash the vehicle, make sure the top is

completely dry before you lower it.

• Do not get any cleaner on the vehicle’s painted

finish; it could leave streaks.

• If you decide to go through an automatic car wash,

ask the manager if the equipment could damage your top.

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Cleaning Aluminum Wheels Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Do not use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels. Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on your vehicle may damage the paint finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on your vehicle.

Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials avaliable from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.

Carbon Fiber Hood (Z06 Commemorative Edition Model Only) The hood on the Z06 Commemorative Edition model is made from an advanced carbon fiber composite. Under certain lighting conditions, the carbon fiber has a faint woven appearance and can be seen through the paint, but not felt. It is most obvious when viewing the reflection of an object in the surface of the hood. The edges of the object in the reflection will appear slightly jagged, due to the woven carbon fiber material. This is normal. No special care is needed.

Magnesium Wheel Finish Improper paint repair or refinishing can Notice: cause corrosion damage to a magnesium wheel. See your dealer if a magnesium wheel needs paint repair or refinishing.

Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

Titanium Exhaust System (Z06 Only) Time and high performance driving conditions can cause a color change in titanium exhaust system parts. This is normal for a titanium surface.

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If you use acidic or corrosive cleaning

Fiberglass Springs Notice: products, engine degreasers or aluminum cleaning agents on fiberglass springs, you may damage the springs. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use only approved cleaners when cleaning your vehicle’s fiberglass springs.

Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing the following products.

Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

Description

Usage

Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish White Sidewall Tire Cleaner

Vinyl Cleaner

Glass Cleaner

Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner

Finish Enhancer

Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil and asphalt. Use on chrome or stainless steel. Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints. Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers. Removes dust, fingerprints, and surface contaminants. Spray on wipe off.

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Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

(cont’d)

Description

Usage

Swirl Remover Polish

Cleaner Wax

Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss

Wash Wax Concentrate

Spot Lifter

Odor Eliminator

Removes swirl marks, fine scratches and other light surface contamination. Removes light scratches and protects finish. Cleans, shines and protects in one easy step, no wiping necessary. Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free. Quickly and easily removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl and cloth upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet.

See your General Motors parts department for these products. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.

Vehicle Identification

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.

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Headlamp Wiring The headlamp wiring is protected by a circuit breaker. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away.

Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by a fuse and an internal circuit breaker. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed.

Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers protect the power seats and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.

Service Parts Identification Label You will find this label located inside the glovebox. It is very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: • your VIN, • the model designation, • paint information and • a list of all production options and special equipment Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle. Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment Notice: Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-49.

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Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of maxi-fuses, mini-fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and do not have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without – like the radio or cigarette lighter – and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can.

Instrument Panel Fuse Block

The instrument panel fuse block is located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, under the instrument panel and under the toe-board.

Remove the carpet and toe-board covering to access the fuse block by pulling at the top of each corner of the panel. Then turn the fuse block door knob counterclockwise and pull the door to access the fuses.

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Fuse

Usage

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11
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13
14
15
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19
20

21

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Stoplamp, Hazard Flashers Body Control Module Windshield Wiper/Washer Accessory Power Blank Body Control Module – Ignition 1
Crank Hazard/Turn Signal Air Bag Tonneau Release HVAC Controls Instrument Panel Control