2003 Chevrolet Corvette Owners Manual

RDM will appear on the display. Press this pushbutton again to turn off random play.

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3 NEXT: Press this pushbutton to advance to the next track. If you press and hold this pushbutton or press it more than once, the player will continue moving forward through the disc. REV 4 (Reverse): Press and hold this pushbutton to quickly reverse within a track. Release this pushbutton to resume play. 5: Press this pushbutton to select the next disc in the magazine. If a CD cannot be played, its number will be skipped when selecting discs while using this pushbutton. FWD 6 (Forward): Press and hold this pushbutton to quickly advance within a track. Release this pushbutton to resume play. RECALL: Press this button to see what track is currently playing. Press it again within five seconds to see how long the track has been playing. When a new track starts to play, the track number will also appear. Press it a third time and the time of day will be displayed.

a SEEK D : The left arrow works the same as the

PREV pushbutton and the right arrow works the same as the NEXT pushbutton. AM/FM: Press this button to listen to the radio when playing a compact disc.

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CD AUX (Auxiliary): Press this button to play a CD when listening to the radio. You can also press this button to switch between playing a CD in the compact disc player and playing a CD in the trunk-mounted CD changer, if both are loaded. Compact Disc Messages If an error occurs while trying to play a CD in the compact disc player or changer, the following conditions may have caused the error:

You’re driving on a very rough road. When the road becomes smoother, the disc should play. The disc is dirty, scratched, wet or upside down. The air is very humid. If so, wait about an hour and try again. The CD changer door is open. Completely close the changer door to restore normal operation. An empty magazine is in the CD changer. Try the magazine again with a disc loaded on one of the trays.

If the CD is not playing correctly, for any other reason, try a known good CD. If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error can’t be corrected, contact your dealer. If your radio displays an error message, write it down and provide it to your dealer when reporting the problem.

Theft-Deterrent Feature THEFTLOCK@ is designed to discourage theft of your radio. It works by using a secret code to disable all radio functions whenever battery power is interrupted. The THEFTLOCK feature for the radio may be used or ignored. If ignored, the system plays normally and the radio is not protected by the feature. If THEFTLOCK is activated, your radio will not operate if stolen. When THEFTLOCK is activated, the radio will display LOC to indicate a locked condition anytime battery power has been interrupted. If your battery loses power for any reason, you must unlock the radio with the secret code before it will operate. Activating the Theft-Deterrent Feature The instructions which follow explain how to enter your secret code to activate the THEFTLOCK system. Read through all nine steps before starting the procedure. ii you aiiuw I ~ ~ u r any steps, the radio automatically reverts to time and you must start the procedure over at Step 4. 1. Write down any three or four-digit number from

iiklhii 75 seC"i?ds ;U &+SE

000 to 1999 and keep it in a safe place separate from the vehicle.

~ ~ K E E Z

3. Turn the radio off. 4. Press the 1 and 4 pushbuttons at the same time.

Hold them down until --- shows on the display. Next you will use the secret code number which you have written down.

5. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display. 6. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree

with your code.

7. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree

with your code.

8. Press AM FM after you have confirmed that the code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show REP to let you know that you need to repeat Steps 5 through 7 to confirm your secret code.

9. Press AM FM and this time the display will show

SEC to let you know that your radio is secure.

2. Turn the ignition on.

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Unlocking the Theft-Deterrent Feature After a Power Loss Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between steps: 1. Turn the ignition on. LOC will appear on the

display.

2. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display. 3. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree

with your code.

4. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree

with your code.

5. Press AM FM after you have confirmed that the code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show SEC, indicating the radio is now operable and secure.

If you enter the wrong code eight times, INOP will appear on the display. You will have to wait an hour with the ignition on before you can try again. When you try again, you will only have three chances to enter the correct code before INOP appears. If you lose or forget your code, contact your dealer.

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Disabling the Theft-Deterrent Feature Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between steps: 1. Turn the ignition on. 2. Turn the radio off. 3. Press the 1 and 4 pushbuttons at the same time. Hold them down until SEC shows on the display.

4. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display. 5. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree

with your code.

6. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree

with your code.

7. Press AM FM after you have confirmed that the code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show ---, indicating that the radio is no longer secured.

If the code entered is incorrect, SEC will appear on the display. The radio will remain secured until the correct code is entered. When battery power is removed and later applied to a secured radio, the radio won’t turn on and LOC will appear on the display. To unlock a secured radio, see “Unlocking the Theft-Deterrent Feature After a Power Loss” earlier in this section.

AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it. FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go.

are sf Your C ssette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight and extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate properly or may cause failure of the tape player. Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every 50 hours of use. Your radio may display CLN to indicate that you have used your tape player for 50 hours without resetting the tape clean timer. If this message appears on the display, your cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to your tapes and player. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if the tape or the tape player is at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player. For best results, use a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette with paas wnicn scrub ine ‘rape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn. The recommended cleaning cassette is available through your dealership.

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The cut tape detection feature of your cassette tape player may identify the cleaning cassette as a damaged tape, in error. To prevent the cleaning cassette from being ejected, use the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition on. 2. Turn the radio off. 3. Press and hold the TAPE AUX button for five seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash for two seconds.

4. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette. 5. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s

recommended cleaning time.

After the cleaning cassette is ejected, the cut tape detection feature will be active again. You may also choose a non-scrubbing action, wet-type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject on its own. A non-scrubbing action cleaner may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner. The use of a non-scrubbing action, dry-type cleaning cassette is not recommended. After you clean the player, press and hold the EJECT button for five seconds to reset the CLN indicator. The radio will display --- to show the indicator was reset. Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced. 3-78

Care of Your CDs

Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the side without writing when handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge.

Care of Your CD Player

The use of CD lens cleaner discs is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism.

Fixed Mast Antenna (Z06)

The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should replace it. Check occasionally to be sure the mast is still tightened to the rear quarter panel.

Power Antenna Mast Care (Convertible) Your power antenna will look its best and work well if it’s cleaned from time to time. To clean the antenna mast do the following: 1. Turn on the ignition and radio to raise the antenna. 2. Dampen a clean cloth with mineral spirits or

equivalent solvent.

3. Wipe the cloth over the mast sections, removing

any dirt.

4. Wipe dry with a clean cloth. 5. Make the antenna go gp and down by turning the

radio or ignition off and on.

6. Repeat if necessary. Notice: Don’t lubricate the power antenna. Lubrication could damage it.

Notice: Before entering an automatic car wash, turn off your radio to make the power antenna go down. This will prevent the mast from possible damage. If the antenna does not go down when you turn the radio off, it may be damaged or need to be cleaned. In either case, lower the antenna by hand by carefully pressing the antenna down. If the mast portion of your antenna is damaged, you can replace it. See your dealer for a replacement kit and follow the instructions in the kit. Integrated Windshield and Rear Window Antennas (Coupe) The antennas in your vehicle are located in the windshield and the rear window. The front connector is at the top of the windshield and the rear antenna is incorporated in the rear window defogger grid.

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NOTES

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Section 4 Driving Your Vehicle

Your Driving. the Road. and Your Vehicle .......... 4-2 Defensive Driving ........................................... 4-2 Drunken Driving ............................................. 4-2 Control of a Vehicle ........................................ 4-5 Braking ......................................................... 4-6 Traction Control System (TCS) ......................... 4-9 Active Handling System ................................. 4-10 Limited-Slip Rear Axle ................................... 4-11 Selective Ride Control .... 4-12 Steering ...................................................... 4-13 Off-Road Recovery ....................................... 4-15 Passing ....................................................... 4-15 Loss of Control ............................................. 4-17 Driving at Night ............................................ 4-18

........................

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads .................. 4-19 City Driving .................................................. 4-22 Freeway Driving ........................................... 4-23 Before Leaving on a Long Trip ....................... 4-24 Highway Hypnosis ........................................ 4-25 Hill and Mountain Roads ................................ 4-25 Winter Driving ............................................. -4-27 If You Are Stuck:

In Sand, Mud,

Ice or Snow .............................................. 4-32 Towing .......................................................... 4-33 Towing Your Vehicle ..................................... 4-33 Recreational Vehicle Towing .......................... 4 3 3 Loading Your Vehicle .................................... 4-33 ........................ 4-35 Towing a Trailer ........

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Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle

Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1-7. Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task - such as concentrating on a cellular

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telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor - makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life. Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle:

Judgment Muscular Coordination Vision Attentiveness.

Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 16,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.

Many adults - by some estimates, nearly half the adult population - choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if someone plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAG) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things: 0 The amount of alcohol consumed

The drinker’s body weight The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking

0 The lenath “ of time it has taken the drinker to

consume the alcohol.

According to the American Medical Association, a 180 Ib (82 kg) person who drinks three 12 ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4 ounce (i20 mij giasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1 - 1/2 ounces (45 mi) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.

it’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level.

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There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in an increasing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, sets the legal limit at 0.08 percent. In some other countries, the limit is even lower. For example, it is 0.05 percent in both France and Germany. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.1 0 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent.

Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater! The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. ‘‘I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking - driver or passenger - is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

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Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgement can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious-or even fatal-collision if you drive after drinking. Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have io a0 ineir work ai ine piaces wilere ii~e iifes rr~eei the road.

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control ot your venicie. Aiso see Tracrion Coniroi System (TCS) on page 4-9 and Active Handling System on page 4-10.

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Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.

Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts - heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking - rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

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Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.

If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, this warning light will stay on. See Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-36.

I .- -

.-l!.-. . - I^ ..- I - ? . -

Let’s say the road is wet and you’re driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam -I -1 - . . .I^ -L - .- 11- - I_ VI I LI ~t: U I Q K ~ ~ QI IU LVI ILII IUG UIQRII ~ y . mat; a VVI la1 happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel.

I ^ I ^ 9 -

-.

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The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.

As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may hear a motor or clicking noise and feel the brake pedal move a little during a stop, but this is normal. Braking in Emergencies With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.

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Traction Control System (TCS)

Your vehicle has a traction control system called TCS that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that the rear wheels are spinning too much or are beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system works the rear brakes and reduces engine power (by closing the throttle and managing engine spark) to limit wheel spin. The TRACTION SYS ACTIVE message will come on when the TCS system is limiting wheel spin. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53. You may feel or hear the system working, but this is normal. If your vehicle is in cruise control when the TCS system begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may re-engage the cruise control. See Turn SignaVMultifunction Lever on nane 3-6 I- - ~ a

The SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM message and the TCS warning light will come on to let you know if there's a problem with your TCS system. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-51.

Di-

When this light and the SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM message are on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly. The TCS system automatically comes on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the TCS system off if vou ever need to.

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To turn the system off, press the button located on the console. You can turn the system on or off at any time by pressing the ACTIVE HANDLING button. The DIC will display the appropriate message when you push the button.

The ACT HNDLG WARMING UP message may be displayed in the DIC after exceeding 12 mph (20 km/h) for 30 seconds. The Active Handling System is off until the WARM UP COMPLETE message is displayed. The ACTIVE HANDLING message will come on when the system is operating. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53 for more information. You may also feel or hear the system working. This is normal.

The SERVICE ACTIVE HNDLG message will be displayed, the instrument cluster light will come on, and a chime will sound to let you know if there is a problem with the system. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-51 for more information.

When this light and the SERVICE ACTIVE HNDLG message are on, the system is not operational. Adjust your driving accordingly.

Active Handling System

The Active Handling System is a computer controlled system that helps the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle in difficult driving conditions. This is accomplished by selectively applying any one of the vehicle’s brakes. When you first start your vehicle and begin to drive away (6 mph (10 km/h)), the message ACT HNDLG WARMING UP may be displayed in the DIC, the instrument cluster light will be on, and a chime will sound. This is normal. You can acknowledge this message by pressing the RESET button. The Active Handling System performance is affected until the message, WARM UP COMPLETE, is displayed in the DIC.

4-1 0

The Active Handling System comes on automatically whenever you start your vehicle. To help maintain directional control of the vehicle, you should always leave the system on. You can turn the system off if you ever need to. If you turn the Active Handling System off, the Traction Control System will also be turned off. Adjust your driving accordingly.

To turn the system off, press the ACTIVE HANDLING button on the console. You can turn the system on and off at any time by pressing the button. The DIC will display the appropriate message when you push the button.

Competitive Driving Mode The driver can select this optional handling mode by pressing the ACTIVE HANDLING button on the console for more than five seconds. Competitive Driving mode allows the driver to have full control of the rear wheels while the Active Handling System helps steer the vehicle by selective brake application. The instrument cluster light will not be on. The Traction Control System will not be operating. Adjust your driving accordingly. When you press the ACTIVE HANDLING button again, or turn the ignition to ACC, the Active Handling and Traction Control Systems will be on. The TRAC/ACT HNDLG-ON message will be displayed temporarily in the DIC and a chime will be heard. Limited-Slip Rear Axle Your limited-slip rear axle can give you additional traction on snow, mud, ice, sand or gravel. It works like CA J L U l the rear wheels has no traction and the other does, this feature will allow the wheel with traction to move the vehicle.

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Selective Ride Control

You may have a ride control system on your vehicle called Selective Ride Control. The system provides the following performance benefits: 0 Reduced Impact Harshness

Improved Road Isolation Improved High-speed Stability Improved Handling Response

0 Better Control of Body Ride Motions

This knob is located on the center console. Turn it to select the suspension of your choice. TOUR: Use for normal city and highway driving. This setting provides a smooth, soft ride. SPORT: Use where road conditions or personal preference demand more control. This setting provides more “feel”, or response to the road conditions. You can select a setting at any time. Based on road conditions, steering wheel angle and your vehicle speed, the system automatically adjusts to provide the best ride and handling. Select a new setting whenever driving conditions change. There are three Driver Information Center (DIC) messages that are displayed when a malfunction occurs with the Selective Ride Control system. Refer to DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53.

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Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Magnetic Speed Variable Assist Steering Your vehicle is equipped with a steering system that continuously adjusts the effort you feel when steering at all vehicle speeds. It provides ease when parking, yet a firm, solid feel at highway speeds. Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this.

The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems - steering and acceleration - have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If vou need to reduce vour speed as vou approach a cu-rve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

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Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking - if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action - steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. See Braking on page 4-6. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

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An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

Off-Road Recovery

You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the righi front tire zorttacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents - the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: 0 “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.

4-1 5

Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic. Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.

If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot. Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.) Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle. Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

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Loss of Control

Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornermg sKIU, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid Is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.

Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If your TCS system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery zr?ti! p ~ ! r w h i ~ ! ~ is skirldin2~ !Learn tn recngni7e warnin9 clues - such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a ”mirrored surface” - and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

4-1 7

Driving at Night

I:.

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired - by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

4-1 8

Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively.

0 Don’t drink and drive.

Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean - inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness - the inability to see in dim light - and aren’t even aware of it.

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are dri\fiflg. The surface mall get lAjet sudden[)/ \.!!./hen reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.

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4-1 9

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

s.

3y wo-. .

Wet brakes can cause acc work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

4-20

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure is one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water

Notice: ii you drive io0 quickiy ihrougir deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Driving Through Flowing Water

forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips 0 Besides slowina down, allow some extra following

distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

0 Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires

on page 5-53.

4-21

City Driving

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: 0 Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. See the next part, “Freeway Driving.” Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

4-22

Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnplKes or supernignwaysj are ine safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.

The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your snouider io make sure iilere isrl’i a ~ l u i i - l ~ ~ ~ your “blind” spot.

d - ~ k k

ii-1

4-23

Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.

Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh - such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in.

Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservior full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

4-24

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and t~ t h ~ $nc. \In1 lr r ~ a p / i ~ \ A / mirrnrc 3nri ynl lr J --.. instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from Lirivil ly 11-1

U C IUIIII ~y LCI la11 I.

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4-25

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

0 Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down

to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.

If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable.

Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

If you don’t =,lift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

4-26

Winter Driving

* Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don't swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As vou ao over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

e You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

Here are some tips for winter driving: * Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. * You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

4-27

Driving On Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

4-28

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution. Keep your traction control system on. It improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has the TCS system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. The Active Handling System may also activate. See Traction Control system (TCS) on page 4-9 and Active Handling system on page 4-10.

Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Braking on page 4-6.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.

9 Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine

until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

4-29

If You're Caught in a Blizzard

Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you've been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:

0 Turn on your hazard flashers.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

4-30

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

4-31

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn your TCS System off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. For a manual transmission, shift slowly between either FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), allowing the wheels to stop before shifting into gear. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” following.

If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 25 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

Nofice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-64.

4-32

Towing

Loading Your Vehicle

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle - such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with any of its wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be rowed, see “Towing Your venicie“ eariier in inis seciiorl.

Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver’s door tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and inc!r_des the weight of a!! occc!pantsj cargo and all nonfactory-installed options.

4-33

MFD BY GENERAL MOTORS CORP

And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 100 Ibs. (45 kg) in your rear area.

an) ..2avier than the Do not your vehicle GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Notice: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

The other label is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle.

4-34

If you put things inside your vehicle - like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else - they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. *‘ there is a crash,

If you have to stop or turn quickly,

keeF --ling.

they’ll

Things you put inside ur vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

Put things in the rear area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

3 Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,

inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

0 Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in

your vehicle.

0 When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

Towing a Trailer

Your Corvette is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer.

4-35

Section 5 Service and Appearance Care

.....

Service ....................................

Doing Your Own Service Work Adding Equipment to the Outside

......... 5.3 ............. 5.4 of Your Vehicle ........................................... 5-4 Fuel ................................................................ 5.5 Gasoline Octane ............................................ 5.5 Gasoline Specifications .................................... 5.5 California Fuel ............................................... 5.6 Additives ..................................................... - 5 - 6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ............................... 5.6 Filling Your Tank ............................................ 5-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container ....................... 5.9

Checking Things Under

the Hood .................................................... 5-10 Hood Release .............................................. 5.11 Engine Compartment Overview ....................... 5.12 Engine Oil ................................................... 5.13 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................ 5.18 Automatic Transmission Fluid ......................... 5.20 Manual Transmission Fluid ............................. 5.20 Hydraulic Clutch .......................................... -5-22 Engine Coolant ............................................. 5.23 .................. 5-26 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap

Engine Overheating ....................................... 5.26 Cooling System ............................................ 5.29 Power Steering Fluid ................................... -5-35 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................ 5-36 Brakes ........................................................ 5-37 Battery ....................................................... 5-40 Jump Starting .............................................. -5-41 Rear Axle ...................................................... -5-46 Bulb Replacement .......................................... 5.47 Halogen Bulbs .............................................. 5.47 Headlamps .................................................. 5.47 Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps ................... 5-49 Back-up Lamps ............................................ 5-51 Replacement Bulbs ....................................... 5.51 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement .............. 5.52 Tires .............................................................. 5.54

Extended Mobility Tires

I ~ . - - - - A 7nc\ [LAbGpl L U V )

.............................................

C C A 3 - J ~

Inflation .. Tire Pressure ................................ 5-56 Tire Pressure Monitor System (Except Z06) ...... 5.57 Tire Rotation ................................................ 5.58 Buying New Tires ......................................... 5.59 Uniform Tire Quality Grading .......................... 5.60

5- 1

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance .................. 5-61 Wheel Replacement ...................................... 5-61 Tire Chains .................................................. 5-64 Lifting Your Corvette ..................................... 5-64 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................ 5-68 Tire Inflator Kit (Z06 Only) ............................. 5-70 Appearance Care ............................................ 5-75 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle ................. 5-75 Care of Safety Belts ...................................... 5-77 Weatherstrips ............................................... 5-77 Cleaning the Outside of

Your Vehicle ......................................... 5-78 Finish Damage .................. .................... 5-81 Magnesium Wheel Finish ............................... 5-81 Underbody Maintenance .......................... 5-81 Titanium Exhaust System

(Z06 Only) ........................................ 5-81 Fiberglass Springs ....................................... 5-81 Chemical Paint Spotting ................................ 5-81 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ........... 5-82

Vehicle Identification ...................................... 5.83 ................ 5-83 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label ..................... 5.83 Electrical System ........................................ 5.84 Add-on Electrical Equipment ...................... 5.84 ..... 5.84 Accessory Power Plug Headlamp Wiring ............. ................. 5-85 ..... 5.85 Windshield Wiper Fuses Power Windows and Other

.................. ...................

Power Options ...................................... 5.85 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ........................ 5.86 Capacities and Specifications .......................... 5-92 Capacities and Specifications ......................... 5.92 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts .......... 5-94 .......... 5.94

Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

5-2

Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you'll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You'll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you'll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

5-3

Doing Your Own Service Work

If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-10. Your vehicle may have an air bag system. If it does, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 7-47 before attempting to do your own service work. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Part E: Maintenance Record on page 6-15.

5-4

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. Gasoline Octane Use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 91 or higher for best performance. You may also use middle grade or regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration may be slightly reduced. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine.

Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

5-5

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-38 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

5-6

Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

Filling Your Tank

Fuel vapor is higllly flammable. li burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don't smoke if you're near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel.

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The fuel filler door is located on the driver's side of the vehicle. The fuel cap is attached by a tether for your convenience.

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The fuel filler door release button is located inside of the center console storage Compartment.

If your fuel filler door release won’t operate, there is a manual release tab. The tab is located against the upper trim on the driver’s side in the rear compartment. Pull the tab to manually release the fuel filler door.

While refueling, rest the tether across the tab on the fuel filler door to prevent damage to your vehicle’s finish. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.

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If you get fuel on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the duel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-78. When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-38. Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type, Your dea!er can get one for you; If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly.

This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index. Filling a Portable Fuel Container

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

e Dispense gasoline only into approved

containers.

e Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. 0 Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete. u u n n c ~unuk-z uvlnnn-

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Checking Things Under the Hood

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

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Hood Release

Notice: In order to avoid possible contact of the hood to the headlamp doors, either take care in raising the hood with the headlamps up, or turn off the headlamps prior to opening the hood. To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the handle

located inside the vehicle below the instrument panel on the driver’s side.

2. Go to the side of the vehicle and pull up on the rear

edge of the hood, near the windshield. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then, just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

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A. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap B. Battery C. Engine Oil Dipstick D. Engine Oil Fill Cap E. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir G. Brake Fluid Reservoir H. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir Engine Oil If the LOW OIL LEVEL message on the Driver Information Center comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see Driver Information Center @IC) on page 3-44. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow ring located near the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 72 for more information on location.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down.

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I

The engine oil fill cap is located in the engine compartment on top of the valve cover on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Ovetvie w on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-89. See “Racing or Other Competitive Driving’’ under Starting Your Engine on page 2-21 for additional information on engine oil.

Notices Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper Operating range, your engine could be damaged.

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Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: 0 GM4718M

Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M.

Notice: If you use oils that don’t have the GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty.

HQT

WEATHER

LOOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1O-W30 if it’s going to be 0°F (-1 8°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 2OW-50.

Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

1-11 SAE IOW-30 ACCEPTABLE IF 5W-30 IS NOT

AVAILABLE

-30

SAE 5W.

RECOMMENDED

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WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SA€ 20W-50 OR ANY OTHER V!SCOS!rv GRADE O!L NOT RECOMMENDED

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5-1 5

When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. a CHANGE OIL SOON message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. If temperatures are above 0°F (-1 8"C), you may substitute SAE 1OW-30 with the starburst symbol. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Don't add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life SystemTM) Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly,