2010 Chevrolet Colorado Owners Manual

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 82°C to 93°C (180°F to 200°F). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 24 km (15 miles) when outside temperatures are above 10°C (50°F). If it is colder than 10°C (50°F), drive the vehicle in 3 (Third) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 10°C (50°F) or more. If it is colder than 10°C (50°F), the engine might have to idle longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot gives a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

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Checking the Fluid Level To prepare the vehicle: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine

running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in P (Park).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in P (Park).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine: 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

The automatic transmission dipstick handle with this symbol on it is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12
for more information on location.

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2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and

pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10. • After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.

• When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to check the manual transmission fluid is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in the manual transmission does not require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer/retailer service department. If doing it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or there could be a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Check the fluid level only when the engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough to touch the transmission case.

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After this is done:

How to Add Fluid Here is how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough

fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully

seated.

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of

the filler plug hole.

3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure

it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

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Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in the vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid.

When to Check and What to Use

The hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for reservoir location.

It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless a leak in the system is suspected. Adding fluid will not correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10.

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How to Check and Add Fluid The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it is in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap.

Cooling System The cooling system allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature.

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2.9L Engine shown (3.7L Engine similar)

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Engine Cooling Fan C. Radiator Pressure Cap

{ WARNING:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 50 000 km (30,000 miles) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.

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5.3L Engine

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan

{ WARNING:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 6-32. What to Use

{ WARNING:

Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

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Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture: • Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C),

outside temperature.

• Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C),

engine temperature.

If an improper coolant mixture is used, the

• Protects against rust and corrosion. • Will not damage aluminum parts. • Helps keep the proper engine temperature. Notice: engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10 for more information.

If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used

Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level.

The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it.

It is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for more information on location. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD, or a little higher. When the engine is warm, the level could be above the FULL COLD level. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, there could be a leak in the cooling system. How to Add Coolant to the Recovery Tank

{ WARNING:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start the vehicle. If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

{ WARNING:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{ WARNING:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

If coolant is needed, add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done.

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1. Remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling

system, including the upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Keep turning the cap to remove it. 3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 6-28 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

4. Fill the coolant recovery tank to the FULL

COLD mark.

5. Reinstall the cap on the coolant recovery tank,

but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the

upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator

filler neck might be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap.

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At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.

If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,

Engine Overheating The vehicle has a coolant temperature gage displayed on the instrument panel to warn if the engine is overheating. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 4-27. If the engine is too hot, the air conditioning might stop working. This is normal and helps cool the engine. You may decide not to lift the hood when the warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 8-8.

If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Then check to see if the engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, do not continue to run the engine and have the vehicle serviced. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, the vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: driven with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty.

If the engine catches fire because of being

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If Steam is Coming from the Engine Compartment

{ WARNING:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

If No Steam is Coming from the Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: • Climbs a long hill on a hot day. • Stops after high-speed driving.

• Idles for long periods in traffic. • Tows a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under

Towing a Trailer on page 5-47.

If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam: 1. Turn the air conditioning off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and

to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary.

3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral)

while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle.

If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down.

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Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.

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Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located near the front of the engine compartment, behind the radiator. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with

a clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid

level on the dipstick.

The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10. Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage the vehicle and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When windshield washer fluid is needed, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If operating the vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow

the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.

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(cid:129) Do not top off the brake fluid. Adding fluid does not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{ WARNING:

If too much brake fluid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check the brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3.

Brakes Brake Fluid

The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT 3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down: • The brake fluid level goes down because of normal

brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the fluid level goes back up.

• A fluid leak in the brake hydraulic system can also

cause a low fluid level. Have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.

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Checking Brake Fluid Check brake fluid by looking at the brake fluid reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12.

{ WARNING:

The fluid level should be above the PP mark. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the PP mark but not over the MAX mark. What to Add Use only new DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake

hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If brake fluid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 6-103.

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(cid:129) Brake Wear This vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal firmly.

{ WARNING:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes.

Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 6-115. Rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every brake stop, the brakes adjust for wear.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed.

Battery Refer to the replacement number on the original battery label when a new battery is needed. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for battery location.

{ DANGER:

Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

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Vehicle Storage

{ WARNING:

Jump Starting If the vehicle battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 6-40 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

{ WARNING:

Infrequent Usage: Remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery to keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: Remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

• They contain acid that can burn you. • They contain gas that can explode or ignite. • They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

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Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice: damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in Neutral before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in Neutral.

If you leave the radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

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4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (−) terminal locations on the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12
for more information on the terminal locations.

{ WARNING:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery (or batteries) installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

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{ WARNING:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal for this purpose.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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If the jumper cables are connected or

Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

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Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant

The proper level is from 0 to 3/8 inch (0 mm to 10 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. What to Use See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10
to determine which kind of lubricant to use. Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section apply to this vehicle. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Remove the plug and add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10.

A. Drain Plug B. Filler Plug

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Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check your front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10
to determine what kind of lubricant to use.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Halogen Bulbs

{ WARNING:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If the headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommended that you take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer for service. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 6-52. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.

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Headlamps

A. Low-Beam Headlamp/Daytime Running

Lamps (DRL)

B. High-Beam Headlamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 6-11. 2. Reach in and access the bulb sockets from

inside the engine compartment.

3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the headlamp assembly and pull it straight out. 4. Unplug the electrical connector from the old bulb by

releasing the clips on the bulb socket.

5. Pull the old bulb straight out. 6. Push the new bulb straight in until it clicks

to secure it.

7. Plug in the electrical connector to the new bulb

socket.

8. Push the bulb socket straight in and turn it clockwise

to secure it in the headlamp assembly.

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Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 6-11.

4. Holding the socket, pull the old bulb to release it

from the bulb socket.

5. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 6. Push the bulb socket straight into the lamp

assembly and turn it clockwise to secure.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To replace the CHMSL bulb: 1. Remove the two screws and lift off the lamp

assembly from the vehicle.

2. Reach in to access either one of the bulb sockets in

the engine compartment.

3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove

it from the lamp assembly.

2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove

it from the lamp assembly.

3. Holding the socket, pull the bulb to release it from

the socket.

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4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 5. Insert the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and

turn it clockwise to secure.

6. Reinstall the lamp assembly and tighten the screws.

Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps

A. Stoplamp/Taillamp B. Turn Signal/Taillamp C. Back-up Lamp

To replace one of these bulbs:

1. Open the tailgate. See Tailgate on page 3-8.

2. Remove the two rear

lamp assembly screws near the tailgate latch.

3. Pull the lamp assembly away from the vehicle. 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it

from the taillamp assembly.

5. Holding the socket, pull the old bulb straight out to

release it from the socket.

6. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it

clicks.

7. Insert the bulb socket into the taillamp assembly

and turn it clockwise to secure.

8. Reinstall the taillamp assembly and tighten the

screws.

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License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs:

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)

License Plate Bulb

Headlamps

High-beam

Low-beam/Daytime Running Lamp (DRL)

Parking/Front Turn Signal

Parking Lamp (Inboard)

Stoplamp, Rear Turn Signal, Taillamp, and Back-up Lamp

912

W5W

9005

9006

3757KA

3157A

3057

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.

1. Reach under the rear bumper for the bulb socket. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull

the bulb socket out of the connector.

3. Pull the old bulb straight out from the bulb socket. 4. Push the new bulb straight in until it clicks to

secure it.

5. Reach under the rear bumper to reinstall the bulb

socket into the connector.

6. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to secure it to the

connector.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3
for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 7-12. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm

until it locks into a vertical position.

A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab 2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking

D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook

tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.

3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

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4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D),

notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.

5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.

A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation

C. Incorrect

Installation

6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook.

Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly

onto the windshield.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer.

{ WARNING:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

• Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33.

WARNING:

(Continued)

WARNING:

(Continued)

• Underinflated tires pose the same danger

as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6-62.

• Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

• Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger Vehicle Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 6-73.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when

a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. See “Compact Spare Tire” under Spare Tire on page 6-98 for additional information. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6-62. (F) Tire Size : A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.

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(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 70, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load index and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load.

(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) P-Metric Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

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Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6-62. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33.

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Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6-62 and Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33.

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Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 6-70.

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 6-73. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33.

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Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much flexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road hazards

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also check the tire pressure of the spare tire. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). See Spare Tire on page 6-98 for additional information.

6-62

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

High-Speed Operation

{ WARNING:

Driving at high speeds, 160 km/h (100 mph) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.

If your vehicle has P235/50R18 size tires, they will require inflation pressure adjustment when driving your vehicle at speeds of 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher.

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Set the cold inflation pressure to the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or 35 psi (241 kPa), whichever is lower. See the example following. When you end this high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold tire inflation pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33
and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6-62. Example: You will find the maximum load and inflation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near the rim flange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 690 kg (1521 lbs) 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press. For this example, you would set the inflation pressure for high-speed driving at 35 psi (241 kPa).

Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label.

(If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale.

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When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 6-65 for additional information. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada See Radio Frequency Statement on page 8-19 for information regarding Part 15 of the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) Rules and RSS-210/211 of Industry and Science Canada.

Tire Pressure Monitor Operation This vehicle may have a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). The TPMS is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly on your vehicle, excluding the spare tire. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.

When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster.

At the same time, a Driver Information Center (DIC) message is displayed on the DIC display screen. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 4-33
and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 4-36.

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The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6-62. Your vehicle’s TPMS can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 6-69 and Tires on page 6-55. Notice: Liquid tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. Sensor damage caused by using a tire sealant is not covered by your warranty. Do not use liquid tire sealants.

TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: • One of the road tires has been replaced with the spare tire. The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor.

• The TPMS sensor matching process was started but not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.

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• One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/retailer for service.

• Replacement tires or wheels do not match your

vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 6-71.

• Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction.

If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on.

TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate your vehicle’s tires, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. If increasing the tire’s air pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To let air-pressure out of a tire you can use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key. You have one minute to match the first tire/wheel position, and five minutes overall, to match all four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer than one minute, to match the first tire and wheel, or more than five minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions, the matching process stops and you need to start over.

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The TPMS sensor matching procedure is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the

engine off.

3. Turn the exterior lamp switch from AUTO to OFF

four times within three seconds. A double horn chirp will sound and the TPMS low tire warning light starts flashing. The double horn chirp and flashing TPMS warning light indicates the TPMS matching process has started. The TPMS warning light should continue flashing throughout the matching procedure. The LOW TIRE message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC).

4. Start with the driver side front tire. 5. Remove the valve cap from the valve cap stem.

Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for 10 seconds, then stop and listen for a single horn chirp. The single horn chirp should sound within 15 seconds, confirming that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position. If you do not hear the confirming single horn chirp, turn the ignition switch to LOCK and start over beginning with Step 2.

6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire, and repeat

the procedure in Step 5.

7. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire, and repeat

the procedure in Step 5.

8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the

procedure in Step 5.

9. After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the driver

side rear tire, check to see if the TPMS low tire warning light and the DIC LOW TIRE messages have turned off. If yes, the TPMS sensors have been relearned. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. If the low tire warning light and the SERV TPM message on the DIC are on after completing Step 5
for the driver side rear tire, the sensor relearn process has not been successful. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF and repeat the matching process beginning with Step 2.

10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure

level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.

11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect your vehicle’s tires, including the spare tire, for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 6-70 for more information. Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3. The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that your vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3. Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 6-70
and Wheel Replacement on page 6-75.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the spare or compact spare tire in the tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6-62
and Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33.

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Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 6-65. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 6-115.

When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions, influence when you need new tires.

One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

{ WARNING:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 6-78.

Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, tighten the cable. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 6-94.

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You need new tires if any of the following statements are true: • You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

• You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

• The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged

deep enough to show cord or fabric. • The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. • The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that

cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information.

Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall near the tire size. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 6-56
for additional information.

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GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of your vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 6-69
for information on proper tire rotation.

{ WARNING:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control of your vehicle while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires) the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. Your vehicle may have a compact spare tire and wheel assembly. It is all right to drive with your vehicle’s compact spare tire temporarily. It was developed for use on your vehicle. See Spare Tire on page 6-98.

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{ WARNING:

If you use bias-ply tires on the vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on the vehicle.

If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system could give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC Spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 6-64. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-33, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.

Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, antilock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.

{ WARNING:

If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.

See Buying New Tires on page 6-71 and Accessories and Modifications on page 6-3 for additional information.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

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Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.

Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. It should be noted that the temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, or Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, and TPMS sensors for your vehicle.

{ WARNING:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 6-78 for more information.

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WARNING:

(Continued)

can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust, or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle. Do not spin the vehicle’s wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

Used Replacement Wheels

{ WARNING:

Putting a used wheel on the vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Tire Chains

{ WARNING:

If your vehicle has P215/70R16, P235/75R16, P265/70R17, or P235/50R18 size tires, do not use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance

WARNING:

(Continued)

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If your vehicle has a tire size other than

Notice: P215/70R16, P235/75R16, P265/70R17, or P235/50R18
use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Do not use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.

A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

{ WARNING:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, only use it for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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WARNING:

(Continued)

4. Turn off the engine and do not restart while

the vehicle is raised.

5. Do not allow passengers to remain in the

vehicle.

To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

When the vehicle has a flat tire (B), use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks (A).

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 4-3.

{ WARNING:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in P (Park), or shift a manual transmission to 1 (First) or R (Reverse).

3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear – not in Neutral.

WARNING:

(Continued)

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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

A. Wheel Block B. Flat Tire The following information explains how to use the jack and change a tire.

A. Wing Nut B. Storage Bag and Tools The tools you will need are located under the right front