2009 Chevrolet Colorado Owners Manual

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XL (Explicit Language Channels): These channels, or any others, can be blocked at a customer’s request, by calling 1-800-852-XMXM (9696). Updating: The encryption code in the receiver is being updated, and no action is required. This process should take no longer than 30 seconds. No Signl: The system is functioning correctly, but the vehicle is in a location that is blocking the XM signal. When the vehicle is moved into an open area, the signal should return. Loading: The radio system is acquiring and processing audio and text data. No action is needed. This message should disappear shortly. Off Air: This channel is not currently in service. Tune to another channel. CH Unavl: This previously assigned channel is no longer assigned. Tune to another station. If this station was one of the presets, choose another station for that preset button. Unauth: This channel is blocked or cannot be received with your XM Subscription package. 3-60 Theft-Deterrent Feature Non-RDS Radios THEFTLOCK® is designed to discourage theft of your vehicle’s radio. The feature works automatically by learning a portion of the Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN). If the radio is moved to a different vehicle, it does not operate and LOC displays. With THEFTLOCK® activated, the radio does not operate if stolen. RDS Radios THEFTLOCK® is designed to discourage theft of your vehicle’s radio. The feature works automatically by learning a portion of the Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN). If the radio is moved to a different vehicle, it does not operate and LOCKED displays. When the radio and vehicle are turned off, the blinking red light indicates that THEFTLOCK® is armed. With THEFTLOCK® activated, the radio does not operate if stolen. Radio Reception Frequency interference and static can occur during normal radio reception if items such as cell phone chargers, vehicle convenience accessories, and external electronic devices are plugged into the accessory power outlet. If there is interference or static, unplug the item from the accessory power outlet. AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range can cause station frequencies to interfere with each other. For better radio reception, most AM radio stations boost the power levels during the day, and then reduce these levels during the night. Static can also occur when things like storms and power lines interfere with radio reception. When this happens, try reducing the treble on the radio. FM Stereo FM signals only reach about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Although the radio has a built-in electronic circuit that automatically works to reduce interference, some static can occur, especially around tall buildings or hills, causing the sound to fade in and out. 3-61 XM™ Satellite Radio Service XM Satellite Radio Service gives digital radio reception from coast-to-coast in the 48 contiguous United States, and in Canada. Just as with FM, tall buildings or hills can interfere with satellite radio signals, causing the sound to fade in and out. In addition, traveling or standing under heavy foliage, bridges, garages, or tunnels may cause loss of the XM signal for a period of time. Cellular Phone Usage Cellular phone usage may cause interference with the vehicle’s radio. This interference may occur when making or receiving phone calls, charging the phone’s battery, or simply having the phone on. This interference causes an increased level of static while listening to the radio. If static is received while listening to the radio, unplug the cellular phone and turn it off. Fixed Mast Antenna The ﬁxed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged as long as it is securely attached to the base. If the mast becomes slightly bent, straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, replace it. Occasionally check to make sure the antenna is tightened to its base. If tightening is required, tighten by hand until fully seated plus one quarter turn. 3-62 XM™ Satellite Radio Antenna System The XM Satellite Radio antenna is located on the roof of the vehicle. Keep the antenna clear of obstructions for clear radio reception. If the vehicle has a sunroof, the performance of the XM system may be affected if the sunroof is open. Chime Level Adjustment The radio is used to adjust the vehicle’s chime level. To change the volume level of the chime, press and hold pushbutton 6 with the ignition on and the radio power off. The volume level will change from the normal level to loud, and LOUD will appear on the radio display. To change back to the default or normal setting, press and hold pushbutton 6 again. The volume level will change from the loud level to normal, and NORMAL will appear on the radio display. Each time the chime volume is changed, three chimes will sound to indicate the new volume selected. Removing the radio and not replacing it with a factory radio or chime module will disable vehicle chimes. Section 4 Driving Your Vehicle Your Driving, the Road, and the Vehicle ............4-2 Driving for Better Fuel Economy .......................4-2 Defensive Driving ...........................................4-2 Drunk Driving .................................................4-3 Control of a Vehicle ........................................4-3 Braking .........................................................4-4 Antilock Brake System (ABS) ...........................4-5 Braking in Emergencies ...................................4-6 StabiliTrak® System ........................................4-6 Traction Control System (TCS) .........................4-8 Limited-Slip Rear Axle .....................................4-9 Steering ........................................................4-9 Off-Road Recovery .......................................4-11 Passing .......................................................4-11 Loss of Control .............................................4-11 Off-Road Driving ...........................................4-13 Driving at Night ............................................4-25 Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads ..................4-26 Before Leaving on a Long Trip .......................4-27 Highway Hypnosis ........................................4-27 Hill and Mountain Roads ................................4-28 Winter Driving ..............................................4-29 If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow .............................................4-31 Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out .................4-32 Recovery Hooks ...........................................4-32 Loading the Vehicle ......................................4-33 Truck-Camper Loading Information ..................4-40 Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab ..................4-40 Towing ..........................................................4-40 Towing Your Vehicle .....................................4-40 Recreational Vehicle Towing ...........................4-41 Towing a Trailer ...........................................4-47 Trailer Recommendations ...............................4-58 4-1 Defensive Driving Defensive driving means “always expect the unexpected.” The ﬁrst step in driving defensively is to wear your safety belt — See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1-12. { CAUTION: Assume that other road users (pedestrians, bicyclists, and other drivers) are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do and be ready. In addition: (cid:129) Allow enough following distance between you and the driver in front of you. (cid:129) Focus on the task of driving. Driver distraction can cause collisions resulting in injury or possible death. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life. Your Driving, the Road, and the Vehicle Driving for Better Fuel Economy Driving habits can affect fuel mileage. Here are some driving tips to get the best fuel economy possible. (cid:129) Avoid fast starts and accelerate smoothly. (cid:129) Brake gradually and avoid abrupt stops. (cid:129) Avoid idling the engine for long periods of time. (cid:129) When road and weather conditions are appropriate, use cruise control, if equipped. (cid:129) Always follow posted speed limits or drive more slowly when conditions require. (cid:129) Keep vehicle tires properly inﬂated. (cid:129) Combine several trips into a single trip. (cid:129) Replace the vehicle’s tires with the same TPC Spec number molded into the tire’s sidewall near the size. Follow recommended scheduled maintenance. 4-2 (cid:129) Drunk Driving { CAUTION: Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reﬂexes, perceptions, attentiveness, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking. Do not drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a group, designate a driver who will not drink. Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a global tragedy. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: judgment, muscular coordination, vision, and attentiveness. Police records show that almost 40 percent of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 17,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with about 250,000 people injured. For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological, and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking. Control of a Vehicle The following three systems help to control the vehicle while driving — brakes, steering, and accelerator. At times, as when driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. Meaning, you can lose control of the vehicle. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect vehicle performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3. 4-3 Braking See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-27. Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. Deciding to push the brake pedal is perception time. Actually doing it is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between the vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied. Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much faster with a lot of heavy braking. Keeping pace with the traffic and allowing realistic following distances eliminates a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If the engine ever stops while the vehicle is being driven, brake normally but do not pump the brakes. If the brakes are pumped, the pedal could get harder to push down. If the engine stops, there will still be some power brake assist but it will be used when the brake is applied. Once the power assist is used up, it can take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect vehicle performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3. 4-4 ABS can change the brake pressure to each wheel, as required, faster than any driver could. This can help the driver steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As the brakes are applied, the computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: ABS does not change the time needed to get a foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, there will not be enough time to apply the brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even with ABS. Using ABS Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down ﬁrmly and let antilock work. The brakes might vibrate or some noise might be heard, but this is normal. Antilock Brake System (ABS) This vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an advanced electronic braking system that helps prevent a braking skid. When the engine is started and the vehicle begins to drive away, ABS checks itself. A momentary motor or clicking noise might be heard while this test is going on. This is normal. If there is a problem with the ABS, this warning light stays on. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) Warning Light on page 3-28. Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that the wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at both rear wheels. 4-5 Braking in Emergencies ABS allows the driver to steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help more than even the very best braking. Brake Assist This vehicle has a Brake Assist feature designed to assist the driver in stopping or decreasing vehicle speed in emergency driving conditions. This feature uses the stability system hydraulic brake control module to supplement the power brake system under conditions where the driver has quickly and forcefully applied the brake pedal in an attempt to quickly stop or slow down the vehicle. The stability system hydraulic brake control module increases brake pressure at each corner of the vehicle until the ABS activates. Minor brake pedal pulsations or pedal movement during this time is normal and the driver should continue to apply the brake pedal as the driving situation dictates The Brake Assist feature will automatically disengage when the brake pedal is released or brake pedal pressure is quickly decreased. StabiliTrak® System The vehicle has an electronic stability control system called StabiliTrak. It is an advanced computer controlled system that assists the driver with directional control of the vehicle in difficult driving conditions. StabiliTrak activates when the computer senses a discrepancy between the intended path and the direction the vehicle is actually traveling. StabiliTrak selectively applies braking pressure at any one of the vehicle’s brakes to assist the driver with keeping the vehicle on the intended path. When the vehicle is started and begins to move, the system performs several diagnostic checks to insure there are no problems. The system may be heard or felt while it is working. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with the vehicle. The system should initialize before the vehicle reaches 20 mph (32 km/h). In some cases, it may take approximately two miles of driving before the system initializes. 4-6 If cruise control is being used when StabiliTrak activates, the cruise control automatically disengages. The cruise control can be re-engaged when road conditions allow. See Cruise Control on page 3-10. If there is a problem detected with StabiliTrak, a SERVICE STAB SYS message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-38 for more information. When this message is displayed, the system is not working. Adjust your driving accordingly. StabiliTrak and Traction Control (TCS) come on automatically whenever the vehicle is started and the systems are reset with each ignition cycle. However, when the transfer case is placed in Four-Wheel-Low mode, StabiliTrak is automatically disabled. See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26 for more information. It is recommended to leave the system on for normal driving conditions, but it may be necessary to turn the TCS portion of the system off if the vehicle is stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow, and it is necessary to “rock” the vehicle to attempt to free it. If traction control is turned off, only the brake-traction control portion of traction control will work. The engine speed management will be disabled. In this mode, engine power is not reduced automatically and the drive wheels can spin more freely. This can cause the brake-traction control to activate constantly. See If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-31. The StabiliTrak/TCS light will ﬂash on the instrument panel cluster when the TCS system or StabiliTrak is both on and activated. The StabiliTrak/TCS button is located on the instrument panel. 4-7 To turn off TCS, press and release the StabiliTrak/TCS button. The StabiliTrak/TCS light comes on in the instrument panel cluster, and TRAC OFF comes on the DIC. To turn TCS back on, press and release the StabiliTrak/TCS button. To turn off TCS and StabiliTrak, press and hold the StabiliTrak/TCS button until the TRAC OFF and STAB SYS OFF messages come on the DIC and the StabiliTrak/TCS light comes on the instrument panel. To turn TCS and StabiliTrak back on, press and release the StabiliTrak/TCS button. When the TCS or StabiliTrak system is turned off, the StabiliTrak/TCS light and the appropriate TRAC OFF or STAB SYS OFF message will be displayed on the DIC. The vehicle will still have brake-traction control when TCS or StabiliTrak is off, but will not be able to use the engine speed management system. The StabiliTrak/TCS light ﬂashes when either system is actively working. See Traction Control Operation following for more information. If the wheel(s) of one axle is allowed to Traction Control System (TCS) The Traction Control System (TCS) is part of StabiliTrak. TCS limits wheel slip which is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that any of the wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, TCS applies the brakes to limit wheel spin and also reduces engine power. The system may be heard or felt while it is working. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with the vehicle. Notice: spin excessively while the StabiliTrak, ABS and brake warning lights and any relevant DIC messages are displayed, the transfer case could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Reduce engine power and do not spin the wheel(s) excessively while these lights and messages are displayed. TCS can operate on dry roads under some conditions. When this happens, the system may be heard working or a reduction in acceleration may be noticed. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with the vehicle. Examples of these conditions include hard acceleration in a turn, an abrupt upshift or downshift of the transmission or driving on rough roads. 4-8 If cruise control is being used when TCS begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control automatically disengages. The cruise control can be re-engaged when road conditions allow. See Cruise Control on page 3-10. The message TRACTION FAULT appears in the Driver Information Center (DIC) when a TCS or Antilock Brake System (ABS) problem has been detected and the vehicle needs service. When this message is on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-38. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect the vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3. Limited-Slip Rear Axle Vehicles with a limited-slip rear axle can give more traction on snow, mud, ice, sand or gravel. It works like a standard axle most of the time, but when traction is low, this feature allows the drive wheel with the most traction to move the vehicle. Steering Power Steering If power steering assist is lost because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, the vehicle can be steered but it will take more effort. Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. Traction in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and vehicle speed. While in a curve, speed is the one factor that can be controlled. If there is a need to reduce speed, do it before entering the curve, while the front wheels are straight. Try to adjust the speed so you can drive through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. 4-9 Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and ﬁnd a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. These problems can be avoided by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot stop in time because there is no room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. The vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply the brakes. See Braking on page 4-4. It is better to remove as much speed as possible from a collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available. 4-10 An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, it can be turned a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly. Off-Road Recovery The vehicle’s right wheels can drop off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while driving. If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that the vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. Turn the steering wheel 3 to 5 inches, 8 to 13 cm, (about one-eighth turn) until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway. Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing: Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait. (cid:129) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane. (cid:129) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility. (cid:129) Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle. (cid:129) When you are being passed, ease to the right. Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. 4-11 (cid:129) Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until the vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to the vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. Remember: StabiliTrak® assists the driver with directional control. See StabiliTrak® System on page 4-6. If the StabiliTrak® System is off, then a steering or cornering skid will need to be handled entirely by the driver using counter steering techniques and an acceleration skid will be best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If the vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, the vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. 4-12 Off-Road Driving Vehicles with four-wheel drive can be used for off-road driving. Vehicles without four-wheel drive should not be driven off-road except on a level, solid surface. The airbag system is designed to work properly under a wide range of conditions, including off-road usage. Always wear your safety belt and observe safe driving speeds, especially on rough terrain. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road and this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reﬂexes, perceptions, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious — or even fatal — accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Off-roading can be great fun but has some deﬁnite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. When off-road driving, traffic lanes are not marked, curves are not banked, and there are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill, or downhill. Avoid sharp turns and abrupt maneuvers. Failure to operate the vehicle correctly off-road could result in loss of vehicle control or vehicle rollover. Off-roading involves some new skills. That is why it is very important that you read these driving tips and suggestions to help make off-road driving safer and more enjoyable. Before You Go Off-Roading (cid:129) Have all necessary maintenance and service work done. (cid:129) Make sure there is enough fuel, that ﬂuid levels are where they should be, and that the spare tire is fully inﬂated. (cid:129) Be sure to read all the information about four-wheel-drive vehicles in this manual. (cid:129) Make sure all underbody shields, if the vehicle has them, are properly attached. (cid:129) Know the local laws that apply to off-roading where you will be driving or check with law enforcement people in the area. (cid:129) Be sure to get the necessary permission if you will be on private land. 4-13 There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle. The heaviest things should be on the ﬂoor, forward of the rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can. (cid:129) Be sure the load is properly secured, so things are not tossed around. You will ﬁnd other important information under Loading the Vehicle on page 4-33 and Tires on page 5-53. Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving { CAUTION: (cid:129) Cargo on the load ﬂoor piled higher than the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks. (cid:129) Unsecured cargo on the load ﬂoor can be tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by ﬂying objects. Secure the cargo properly. (cid:129) Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible. 4-14 (cid:129) Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment: (cid:129) Always use established trails, roads, and areas that have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving and obey all posted regulations. (cid:129) Avoid any driving practice that could damage shrubs, ﬂowers, trees, or grasses or disturb wildlife. This includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees, or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground. (cid:129) Always carry a litter bag and make sure all refuse is removed from any campsite before leaving. Take extreme care with open ﬁres (where permitted), camp stoves, and lanterns. (cid:129) Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other combustible materials that could catch ﬁre from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system. Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Check to see if there are any blocked or closed roads. It is also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle in case something happens to one of them. For vehicles with a winch, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck but you will want to know how to use it properly. Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It is a good idea to practice in an area that is safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-roading requires some new and different skills. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. Use your arms, hands, feet, and body to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce. 4-15 (cid:129) Controlling the vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control the vehicle is to control the speed. At higher speeds: (cid:129) You approach things faster and have less time to react. There is less time to scan the terrain for obstacles. The vehicle has more bounce when driving over obstacles. (cid:129) More braking distance is needed, especially on an unpaved surface. { CAUTION: When you are driving off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you are driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts. Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. Be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Surface Conditions: Off-roading surfaces can be hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow, or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the vehicle’s steering, acceleration, and braking in different ways. Depending on the surface, slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances can occur. Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you are not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow, or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Some things to consider: Is the path ahead clear? (cid:129) Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? (cid:129) Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (cid:129) Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction quickly? 4-16 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) When driving over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a ﬁrm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands. When driving over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, the wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you cannot control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking. Off-roading requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits, or signal lights. Use good judgment about what is safe and what is not. Driving on Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what the vehicle can and cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle. { CAUTION: Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you cannot control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, do not drive the hill. 4-17 Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, decide if it is too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you might not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs. Consider this as you approach a hill: Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping? Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you will not have to make turning maneuvers? (cid:129) Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts? (cid:129) What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to ﬁnd out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion. 4-18 Driving Uphill Once you decide it is safe to drive up the hill: (cid:129) Use a low gear and get a ﬁrm grip on the steering wheel. (cid:129) Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain speed. Not using more power than needed can avoid spinning the wheels or sliding. { CAUTION: Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up. Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to ﬁnd another route. (cid:129) Ease up on the speed as you approach the top of the hill. (cid:129) Attach a ﬂag to the vehicle to be more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills. (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) If the engine has stopped running, you need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the automatic transmission to P (Park) or the manual transmission to Neutral and restart the engine. Then, shift to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in R (Reverse). (cid:129) While backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position so you can tell if the wheels are straight and can maneuver as you back down. It is best to back down the hill with the wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover. (cid:129) Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to let opposing traffic know you are there. (cid:129) Use headlamps even during the day to make the vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic. { CAUTION: Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert. If the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot make it up the hill: (cid:129) Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards and apply the parking brake. If the engine is still running, shift the transmission to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in R (Reverse). 4-19 (cid:129) (cid:129) Things not to do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, when going up a hill: (cid:129) Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into N (Neutral), or pressing the clutch pedal if the vehicle has a manual transmission, to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. The vehicle can roll backward very quickly and could go out of control. (cid:129) Never try to turn around if about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall the vehicle, it is steep enough to cause it to roll over. If you cannot make it up the hill, back straight down the hill. If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake, shift to P (Park) or 1 (First) with a manual transmission, and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to Neutral when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear. { CAUTION: Shifting the transfer case to Neutral can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). This is because the Neutral position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to P (Park). But do not shift the transfer case to Neutral. Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, consider: (cid:129) How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain vehicle control? (cid:129) What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel? (cid:129) Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders? (cid:129) What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks? 4-20 If you decide you can go down a hill safely, try to keep the vehicle headed straight down. Use a low gear so engine drag can help the brakes so they do not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping the vehicle under control at all times. Things not to do when driving down a hill: (cid:129) When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down might be too steep to drive across. The vehicle could roll over. { CAUTION: Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control. (cid:129) Never go downhill with the transmission in N (Neutral), called free-wheeling. The brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade. Vehicles are much more likely to stall when going uphill, but if it happens when going downhill: 1. Stop the vehicle by applying the regular brakes and apply the parking brake. 2. Shift to P (Park) and, while still braking, restart the engine. 3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight down. 4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help. 4-21 (cid:129) Surface conditions can be a problem. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause the tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over. (cid:129) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, the vehicle can tilt even more. For these reasons, carefully consider whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. If you feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. The best way to prevent this is to “walk the course” ﬁrst, so you know what the surface is like before driving it. Driving Across an Incline An off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. To decide whether to try to drive across the incline, consider the following: { CAUTION: Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead. (cid:129) A hill that can be driven straight up or down might be too steep to drive across. When going straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when driving across an incline, the narrower track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — might not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels which could cause a downhill slide or a rollover. 4-22 Stalling on an Incline { CAUTION: Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path. If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over. Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do not get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick, turning is more difficult, and braking distances are longer. It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck. When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. 4-23 Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause it to slide out of control. Driving in Water { CAUTION: { CAUTION: Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only. Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water. Heavy rain can mean ﬂash ﬂooding, and ﬂood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before driving through it. Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get through. Deep water can damage the axle and other vehicle parts. 4-24 If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When going through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it might take longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-26. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a ﬁre hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. The vehicle requires more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information. Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside rearview mirror. (cid:129) Slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead. (cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or curves. 4-25 CAUTION: (Continued) Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through ﬂowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through ﬂowing water. Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or ﬂowing water. { CAUTION: Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. CAUTION: (Continued) 4-26 Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:129) Keep the windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir ﬁlled. (cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires on page 5-53. Turn off cruise control. Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows clean — inside and outside? (cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inﬂated to recommended pressure? (cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have up-to-date maps? Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, ﬁnd a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead and to the sides. (cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments often. 4-27 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on ﬂat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:129) Check all ﬂuid levels and brakes, tires, cooling system, and transmission. (cid:129) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a lower gear. { CAUTION: If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope. { CAUTION: Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill. (cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident). (cid:129) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-13 for information about driving off-road. 4-28 (cid:129) Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. The StabiliTrak® System on page 4-6 improves the ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When driving through deep snow, it might be beneﬁcial to turn off the traction control part of the StabiliTrak® System to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. Once beyond the deep snow, push the StabiliTrak® button again to turn traction control back on. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-5 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces. 4-29 Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe: Turn on the Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6. Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror. { CAUTION: Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. If the vehicle is stuck in the snow: (cid:129) Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. CAUTION: (Continued) 4-30 CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:129) Check again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. (cid:129) Open a window about two inches (5 cm) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air. (cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or under the instrument panel. (cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index. For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-35. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust. Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful. (cid:129) (cid:129) To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat. Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel. If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-32. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method. { CAUTION: If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment ﬁre or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer. For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-75. 4-31 Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. For four-wheel drive vehicles, shift into 4HI. Turn off any traction system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between 1 (First) or 2 (Second) and R (Reverse), spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. Recovery hooks can be used, if the vehicle has them. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-40. Recovery Hooks { CAUTION: These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back. 4-32 Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. For vehicles with recovery hooks at the front of the vehicle, you can use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving. Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certiﬁcation/Tire label. { CAUTION: Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle. 4-33 Tire and Loading Information Label Label Example A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will ﬁnd the label attached below the door latch post. Vehicle’s without a center pillar, like extended cab models, will have the Tire and Loading Information label attached to the driver’s side extended cab door, above the door latch post. 4-34 The Tire and Loading Information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inﬂation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inﬂation see Tires on page 5-53 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60. There is also important information on the Certiﬁcation/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certiﬁcation/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle. 3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs. 4. The resulting ﬁgure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be ﬁve 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-47 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety, and trailering tips. Example 1 Item Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) x 2 = Available Cargo Weight = Total 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 300 lbs (136 kg) 700 lbs (317 kg) 4-35 Example 2 Example 3 Item Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) x 5 = Available Cargo Weight = Total Item 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 750 lbs (340 kg) 250 lbs (113 kg) Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) x 5 = Available Cargo Weight = Total 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 0 lbs (0 kg) 4-36 Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, cargo, and any accessories or equipment added to your vehicle after it left the factory should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. Certiﬁcation/Tire Label Label Example A vehicle speciﬁc Certiﬁcation/Tire label is attached to the bottom section of the center pillar, on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Vehicles without a center pillar, like extended cab models, will have the Certiﬁcation/Tire label attached to the edge of the driver’s side, extended cab door, below the door latch post. The label shows the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo, and trailer tongue weight, if pulling a trailer. The Certiﬁcation/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To ﬁnd out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. If you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. 4-37 Similar appearing vehicles may have different GVWRs and capacity weights. Please note your vehicle’s Certiﬁcation/Tire label or consult your dealer/retailer for additional details. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going. { CAUTION: Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer/retailer to help you load your vehicle the right way. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. 4-38 { CAUTION: Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. (cid:129) Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly. (cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. (cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. (cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. (cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to. There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving on page 4-13. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle. Two-Tiered Loading By positioning four 2” X 6” wooden planks across the width of the pickup box, you can create an upper load platform. The planks must be inserted in the pickup box depressions. The length of the planks must allow for at least a 3/4 inch (2 cm) bearing surface on each end of the plank. When using this upper load platform, be sure the load is securely tied down to prevent it from shifting. The load’s center of gravity should be positioned in a zone over the rear axle. Any load that extends beyond the vehicle’s taillamp area must be properly marked according to local laws and regulations. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the rear axle. Add-On Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the rear axle. A reinforcement kit for mounting a toolbox is recommended. See your dealer/retailer. 4-39 Truck-Camper Loading Information Your vehicle was not designed to carry a slide-in camper. Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab We are aware that some vehicle owners might consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. However, we recommend that conversions of this type not be done to pickups. Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which could affect vehicle safety. Towing Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes, such as behind a motorhome, see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following. 4-40 Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing. Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly. Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations. (cid:129) What is the distance that will be travelled? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Is the proper towing equipment going to be used? See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-27. Dinghy Towing Two-Wheel Drive Vehicles If the vehicle is towed with all four wheels Notice: on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Do not tow the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. 4-41 (cid:129) (cid:129) Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to dinghy tow a four-wheel-drive vehicle: 1. Position the vehicle being towed behind the tow vehicle. 2. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in 1 (First). 3. Turn the engine off and ﬁrmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on page 2-31. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow vehicle. 4-42 { CAUTION: Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the automatic transmission is in P (Park) or the manual transmission is in any gear. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is ﬁrmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral). 5. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting into N (Neutral)” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26. 6. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF and remove the key — the steering wheel will still turn. 7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is ﬁrmly attached to the towing vehicle. After towing see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26. If the vehicle being towed will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent the battery from draining. Dolly Towing Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles If a two-wheel-drive vehicle is towed with Notice: the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Never tow the vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. To dolly tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle, the vehicle must be towed with the rear wheels on the dolly. See “Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)” later in this section for more information. 4-43 Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to dolly tow a four-wheel-drive vehicle from the front: 1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the dolly manufacturer’s instructions. 2. Drive the front wheels onto the dolly. 3. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in 1 (First). 4. Turn the engine off and ﬁrmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on page 2-31. 4-44 { CAUTION: Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the automatic transmission is in P (Park) or the manual transmission is in any gear. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is ﬁrmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral). 5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the manufacturer’s instructions. 6. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting into N (Neutral)” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26. 7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is ﬁrmly attached to the towing vehicle. 8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF. After towing, see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26. If the vehicle being towed will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent the battery from draining. Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles 3. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on page 2-31. 4. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in 1 (First). 5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the manufacturer’s instructions. 6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position. 7. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF. If the vehicle being towed will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent the battery from draining. Use the following procedure to dolly tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle from the rear: 1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the dolly manufacturer’s instructions. 2. Drive the rear wheels onto the dolly. 4-45 Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to dolly tow a four-wheel-drive vehicle from the rear: 1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the dolly manufacturer’s instructions. 2. Drive the rear wheels onto the dolly. 3. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on page 2-31. 4. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in 1 (First). 5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the manufacturer’s instructions. 4-46 6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position. { CAUTION: Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the automatic transmission is in P (Park) or the manual transmission is in any gear. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is ﬁrmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral). 7. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting into N (Neutral)” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26. 8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF. If the vehicle being towed will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent the battery from draining. After towing, see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26. Towing a Trailer { CAUTION: The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer. 4-47 Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points: There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. (cid:129) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later in this section. (cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. (cid:129) Vehicles with automatic transmissions can tow in D (Drive), but you may want to shift to a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If the vehicle has a manual transmission it is better not to use the highest gear. Three important considerations have to do with weight: The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The weight on the vehicle’s tires Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Use the following chart to determine how much the vehicle can weigh, based upon the vehicle model and options. 4-48 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Vehicle 2WD Regular Cab 2.9L L4 Automatic Transmission 2.9L L4 Manual Transmission 3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission 2WD Extended Cab 2.9L L4 Automatic Transmission 2.9L L4 Manual Transmission 3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission 5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission 5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission, ZQ8 Sport Suspension 2WD Crew Cab 2.9L L4 Automatic Transmission 2.9L L4 Manual Transmission 3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission 5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission 5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission, ZQ8 Sport Suspension Axle Ratio Maximum Trailer Weight GCWR* 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.42 3.73 3.42 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.42 3.73 3.42 3,400 lbs (1 542 kg) 2,400 lbs (1 089 kg) 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) 7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg) 3,200 lbs (1 452 kg) 2,200 lbs (998 kg) 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg) 7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 9,500 lbs (4 309 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 10,400 lbs (4 717 kg) 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg) 3,000 lbs (1 361 kg) 2,100 lbs (953 kg) 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg) 7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 9,500 lbs (4 309 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 10,400 lbs (4 717 kg) 3,800 lbs (1 724 kg) 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg) 4-49 Vehicle 4WD Regular Cab 2.9L L4 Automatic Transmission 2.9L L4 Manual Transmission 3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission 4WD Extended Cab 2.9L L4 Automatic Transmission 2.9L L4 Manual Transmission 3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission 5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission 4WD Crew Cab 3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission 5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission Axle Ratio Maximum Trailer Weight GCWR* 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.42 4.10 3.73 3.42 4.10 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg) 2,100 lbs (953 kg) 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) 7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 9,000 lbs (4 082 kg) 2,900 lbs (1 315 kg) 1,900 lbs (861 kg) 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg) 7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 9,800 lbs (4 445 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 10,400 lbs (4 717 kg) 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg) 9,800 lbs (4 445 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 10,400 lbs (4 717 kg) *The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for the vehicle should not be exceeded. Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-6 for more information. 4-50 Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-33 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent

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2009 Chevrolet Colorado Owners Manual