1999 Chevrolet Cavalier Owners Manual

SEEK: Press the right or left arrow to go to the next higher or lower station and stay there. PUSHBUTTONS: The four numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to 21 stations (seven AM, seven FM1, and seven FM2 ). Just: 1. Turn the radio on. 2. Press AM-FM to select the band. 3. Tune in the desired station. 4. Press SET. (SET will appear on the display.) 5. Press one of the four numbered buttons, within five seconds. Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return.

6. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.

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In addition to the four stations already set, up to three more stations may be preset on each band by pressing two adjoining buttons at the same time. Just: 1. Tune in the desired station. 2. Press SET. (SET will appear on the display.) 3. Press any two adjoining pushbuttons at the same

time, within five seconds. Whenever you press the same buttons, the station you set will return. 4. Repeat the steps for each pair of pushbuttons. P.SCAN: Press both SEEK arrows and P.SCAN will appear on the display. Use P.SCAN to listen to each of your preset stations for a few seconds. The radio will go to the first preset station stored on your pushbuttons, stop for a few seconds, then go on to the next preset station. (If a preset station has weak reception, it will not stop.) Press either SEEK arrow or the upper knob to stop scanning.

Setting the Tone BASS: Slide the lever up or down to increase or decrease bass. TREB: Slide the lever up or down to increase or decrease treble. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble.

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Adjusting the Speakers BAL: Turn the control behind the upper knob to move the sound to the left or right speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers. FADE: Turn the control behind the lower knob to move the sound to the front or rear speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers.

Playing a Cassette Tape Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that are up to 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin they may not work well in this player. If you hear nothing or hear just a garbled sound, it may not be in squarely. Press EJECT to remove the tape and start over. While the tape is playing, use the VOL, FADE, BAL, BASS and TREB controls just as you do for the radio. Other controls may have different functions when a tape is inserted. The display will show an arrow to show which side of the tape is playing. REV: Press the SEEK arrow pointing to the left and the tape will reverse rapidly until you press this button again lightly.

FWD: Press the SEEK arrow pointing to the right and the tape will rapidly advance until you press this button again lightly. RECALL: Press this knob to hear the other side of a tape that is playing. EJECT: Press this button to remove the tape. The radio will play. If you leave a cassette tape in the player while listening to the radio, it may become warm. CLN: If this message appears on the display, the cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to the tapes and player. See “Care of Your Cassette Tape Player” in the Index. After you clean the player, press and hold EJECT for five seconds to reset the CLN indicator. The radio will display --- to show the indicator was reset.

CD Adapter Kits It is possible to use a CD adapter kit with your cassette tape player after activating the bypass feature on your tape player. To activate the bypass feature, use the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY. 2. Turn the radio on.

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3. Insert the adapter. 4. Within five seconds, press and hold the REV and

FWD buttons at the same time for three seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash, showing that the cut tape detection feature is no longer active.

This override routine will remain active until EJECT is pressed. AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player and Automatic Tone Control (If Equipped)

Playing the Radio PWR-VOL: Press this knob to turn the system on and off. To increase volume, turn the knob clockwise. Turn it counterclockwise to decrease volume. The knob is capable of rotating continuously.

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RECALL: Press this button to recall the station being played. If you press the button when the ignition is off, the clock will show for a few seconds. SCV: Your system has a feature called Speed-Compensated Volume (SCV). With SCV, your audio system adjusts automatically to make up for road and wind noise as you drive. Set the volume at the desired level. Turn the control ring behind the upper knob clockwise to adjust the SCV. Then, as you drive, SCV automatically increases the volume, as necessary, to overcome noise at any particular speed. The volume level should always sound the same to you as you drive. If you don’t want to use SCV, turn the control all the way down. Each notch on the control ring allows for more volume compensation at faster vehicle speeds.

Finding a Station AM-FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1
and FM2. The display shows your selection. TUNE: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn it to choose radio stations. Push the knob back into its stored position when you’re not using it. SEEK: Press the right or left arrow to go to the next higher or lower station. The sound will mute while seeking.

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SCAN: Press one of the SEEK arrows for two seconds, and SCAN will appear in the display. Use SCAN to listen to stations for a few seconds. The radio will go to a station, stop for a few seconds, then go on to the next station. Press SEEK again to stop scanning. The sound will mute while scanning. PUSHBUTTONS: The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to 18 stations (six AM, six FM1 and six FM2). Just: 1. Turn the radio on. 2. Press AM-FM to select the band. 3. Tune in the desired station. 4. Press AUTO TONE to select the equalization that

best suits the type of station selected.

5. Press and hold one of the six numbered buttons. The sound will mute. When it returns, release the button. Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return and the AUTO TONE equalization that you selected will also be automatically selected for that button. 6. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.

P.SCAN: Press this button to listen to each of your favorite stations stored on your pushbuttons for a few seconds. The radio will scan through each of the stations stored on your pushbuttons, except those stations with weak reception. The AUTO TONE setting stored for that pushbutton will be automatically chosen. Press P.SCAN or one of the pushbuttons again to stop scanning. P.SCAN will be displayed whenever the tuner is in the P.SCAN mode. The channel number (P1-P6) will appear momentarily just before the frequency is displayed. In FM mode, this function will scan through both FM1 and FM2 preset stations and FM1 or FM2 will appear on the display.

Setting the Tone BASS: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn the knob clockwise to increase bass and counterclockwise to decrease bass. When you use this control, the radio’s AUTO TONE setting will switch to manual and the AUTO TONE display will go blank. TREB: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn the knob clockwise to increase treble and counterclockwise to decrease treble. When you use this control, the radio’s AUTO TONE setting will switch to manual and the AUTO TONE display will go blank. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble.

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Push these knobs back into their stored positions when you’re not using them. AUTO TONE: This feature allows you to choose preset bass and treble equalization settings designed for country/western, classical, news, rock, pop and jazz stations. C/W will appear on the display when you first press AUTO TONE. Each time you press it, another setting will appear on the display. Press it again after JAZZ appears and the AUTO TONE display will go blank. Tone control will return to the BASS and TREB knobs. Also, if you use the BASS and TREB knobs, control will return to them and the AUTO TONE display will go blank. Use PUSHBUTTONS and AUTO TONE button to program AUTO TONE for station presets.

Adjusting the Speakers BAL: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn the knob clockwise for the right speakers and counterclockwise for the left speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers. FADE: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn the knob clockwise to adjust the sound to the front speakers and counterclockwise for the rear speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers. Push these knobs back into their stored positions when you’re not using them.

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Playing a Cassette Tape Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that are up to 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin they may not work well in this player. If a tape is inserted when the ignition is on but the radio is off, the tape will begin playing. A tape symbol is shown in the center of the graphic display whenever a tape is inserted. When a tape is active, the tape symbol will be accompanied by a direction arrow. While the tape is playing, use the VOL, AUTO TONE, BAL, FADE, BASS and TREB controls just as you do for the radio. Other controls may have different functions when a tape is inserted. The display will show the tape symbol and an arrow to show which side of the tape is playing. If you hear nothing or hear just a garbled sound, it may not be in squarely. Press EJECT to remove the tape and start over. The player is able to detect a tight or broken tape, and will eject the tape. The radio will go back to playing the last station selected. The player automatically senses the cassette for metal or CrO2 and sets the pre-emphasis. Anytime a tape is inserted, the top side is selected to play first.

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PREV (1): Press this button or the left SEEK arrow to go to the previous selection on the tape if the current selection has been playing for less than eight seconds. If the PREV button is pressed and the current selection has been playing for more than eight seconds, it will go to the beginning of the current selection. Your tape must have at least three seconds of silence between each selection for PREV or SEEK to work. The tape direction arrow blinks during PREV or SEEK operation. The sound will mute during PREV or SEEK operation. Press this button or one of the SEEK arrows again to return to normal play. PROG (2): Press this button to play the other side of the tape. NEXT (3): Press this button or the right SEEK arrow to go to the next selection on the tape. If you hold the button or press it more than once, the player will continue moving forward through the tape. Your tape must have at least three seconds of silence between each selection for NEXT or SEEK to work. The tape direction arrow blinks during NEXT or SEEK operation. The sound will mute during NEXT or SEEK operation. Press this button or one of the SEEK arrows again to return to normal play.

REV (4): Press this button to reverse the tape rapidly. Press it again to return to playing speed. The radio will play the last selected station while the tape reverses. D (5): Press this button to reduce background noise. Note that the double-D symbol will appear on the display. Dolby Noise Reduction is manufactured under a license from Dolby Laboratories Licensing Corporation. Dolby and the double-D symbol are trademarks of Dolby Laboratories Licensing Corporation. FWD (6): Press this button to advance quickly to another part of the tape. Press the button again to return to playing speed. The radio will play the last selected station while the tape advances. AM-FM: Press this button to play the radio when a tape is in the player. TAPE AUX: Press this button to change to the tape function when the radio is on. The tape symbol with an arrow will appear on the display when the tape is active. EJECT: Press this button to remove the tape. The radio will play. EJECT may be activated with either the ignition or radio off. Cassettes may be loaded with the radio off if this button is pressed first. If you leave a cassette tape in the player while listening to the radio, it may become warm.

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CLN: If this message appears on the display, the cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to the tapes and player. See “Care of Your Cassette Tape Player” in the Index. After you clean the player, press and hold EJECT for five seconds to reset the CLN indicator. The radio will display --- to show the indicator was reset.

CD Adapter Kits It is possible to use a CD adapter kit with your cassette tape player after activating the bypass feature on your tape player. To activate the bypass feature, use the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY. 2. Turn the radio off. 3. Press and hold the TAPE AUX button for five

seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash for two seconds, indicating the feature is active. 4. Insert the adapter. It will power up the radio and

begin playing.

This override routine will remain active until EJECT is pressed.

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SCV: Your system has a feature called Speed-Compensated Volume (SCV). With SCV, your audio system adjusts automatically to make up for road and wind noise as you drive. Set the volume at the desired level. Turn the control ring behind the upper knob clockwise to adjust the SCV. Then, as you drive, SCV automatically increases the volume, as necessary, to overcome noise at any particular speed. The volume level should always sound the same to you as you drive. If you don’t want to use SCV, turn the control all the way down. Each notch on the control ring allows for more volume compensation at faster vehicle speeds.

Finding a Station AM-FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1
and FM2. The display shows your selection. TUNE: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn it to choose radio stations. Push the knob back into its stored position when you’re not using it. SEEK: Press the right or left arrow to go to the next higher or lower station. The sound will mute while seeking.

AM-FM Stereo with Compact Disc Player and Automatic Tone Control (If Equipped)

Playing the Radio PWR-VOL: Press this knob to turn the system on and off. To increase volume, turn the knob clockwise. Turn it counterclockwise to decrease volume. The knob is capable of rotating continuously. RECALL: Press this button to recall the station being played. If you press the button when the ignition is off, the clock will show for a few seconds.

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SCAN: Press one of the SEEK arrows for two seconds, and SCAN will appear on the display. Use SCAN to listen to stations for a few seconds. The radio will go to a station, stop for a few seconds, then go on to the next station. Press SEEK again to stop scanning. The sound will mute while scanning. PUSHBUTTONS: The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to 18 stations (six AM, six FM1 and six FM2). Just: 1. Turn the radio on. 2. Press AM-FM to select the band. 3. Tune in the desired station. 4. Press AUTO TONE to select the equalization that

best suits the type of station selected.

5. Press and hold one of the six numbered buttons. The sound will mute. When it returns, release the button. Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return and the AUTO TONE equalization that you selected will also be automatically selected for that button. 6. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton. P.SCAN: Press this button to listen to each of your favorite stations stored on your pushbuttons for a few seconds. The radio will scan through each of the stations

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stored on your pushbuttons, except those stations with weak reception. The AUTO TONE setting stored for that pushbutton will be automatically chosen. Press P.SCAN or one of the pushbuttons again to stop scanning. P.SCAN will be displayed whenever the tuner is in the P.SCAN mode. The channel number (P1-P6) will appear momentarily just before the frequency is displayed. In FM mode, this function will scan through both FM1 and FM2 preset stations and FM1 or FM2 will appear on the display.

Setting the Tone BASS: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn the knob clockwise to increase bass and counterclockwise to decrease bass. When you use this control, the radio’s AUTO TONE setting will switch to manual and the AUTO TONE display will go blank. TREB: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn the knob clockwise to increase treble and counterclockwise to decrease treble. When you use this control, the radio’s AUTO TONE setting will switch to manual and the AUTO TONE display will go blank. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble.

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Push these knobs back into their stored positions when you’re not using them. AUTO TONE: This feature allows you to choose preset bass and treble equalization settings designed for country/western, classical, news, rock, pop and jazz stations. C/W will appear on the display when you first press AUTO TONE. Each time you press it, another setting will appear on the display. Press it again after JAZZ appears and the AUTO TONE display will go blank. Tone control will return to the BASS and TREB knobs. Also, if you use the BASS and TREB knobs, control will return to them and the AUTO TONE display will go blank. Use PUSHBUTTONS and AUTO TONE button to program AUTO TONE for station presets.

Adjusting the Speakers BAL: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn the knob clockwise for the right speakers and counterclockwise for the left speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers. FADE: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn the knob clockwise to adjust the sound to the front speakers and counterclockwise for the rear speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers. Push these knobs back into their stored positions when you’re not using them. 3-18

Playing a Compact Disc Insert a disc partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull it in. The disc should begin playing. The display will show CD and the CD symbol. If you want to insert a compact disc with the ignition off, first press RECALL or EJECT. If you’re driving on a very rough road or if it’s very hot, the disc may not play and ERR (error) may appear on the display. Press RECALL to take ERR off the display. When things get back to normal, the disc should play. If the disc comes out, it could be that: D The disc is upside down. D It is dirty, scratched or wet. D It is very humid. (If so, wait about an hour and

try again.)

PREV (1): Press this button or the left SEEK arrow to go to the previous track if the current selection has been playing for less than eight seconds. If the PREV button is pressed and the current selection has been playing for more than eight seconds, it will go to the beginning of the current selection. If you hold the button or press it more than once, the player will continue moving back through the disc. The sound will mute while seeking.

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RDM (2): Press this button to hear the tracks in random, rather than sequential, order. RANDOM will show on the display. Press RDM again to turn off random play. RDM is reset to off when the disc is ejected. NEXT (3): Press this button or the right SEEK arrow to go to the next track. If you hold the button or press it more than once, the player will continue moving forward through the disc. The sound will mute while seeking. REV (4): Press and hold this button to quickly reverse within a track. Release it to play the passage. You can use the counter reading on the display to locate a passage easily. FWD (6): Press and hold this button to advance quickly within a track. Release it to resume playing. You can use the counter reading on the display to locate a passage easily. RECALL: Press this button to see which track is playing. Press it again within five seconds to see how long it has been playing (elapsed time). The track number also appears when you change the volume or when a new track starts to play. AM-FM: Press this button to play the radio when a disc is in the player. The letters CD will go off the display.

CD AUX: Press this button to change to the disc function when the radio is on. A CD icon will appear on the display when the disc is in the player, whether it is active or not. EJECT: Press this button to remove the disc. The radio will play. The disc will start at the first track when you reinsert it. If you turn off the ignition or radio with a disc in the player, it will stay in the player. When you turn on the ignition or system, the disc will start playing where it was stopped. If you press EJECT but don’t remove the disc, the player will pull the disc back in to protect it after about one minute. If you leave a compact disc in the player while listening to the radio, it may become warm. Theft-Deterrent Feature (If Equipped) THEFTLOCKR is designed to discourage theft of your radio. It works by using a secret code to disable all radio functions whenever battery power is removed. The THEFTLOCK feature for the radio may be used or ignored. If ignored, the system plays normally and the radio is not protected by the feature. If THEFTLOCK is activated, your radio will not operate if stolen.

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When THEFTLOCK is activated, the radio will display LOC to indicate a locked condition anytime battery power has been interrupted. If your battery loses power for any reason, you must unlock the radio with the secret code before it will operate. Activating the Theft-Deterrent Feature The instructions which follow explain how to enter your secret code to activate the THEFTLOCK system. It is recommended that you read through all nine steps before starting the procedure. NOTE: If you allow more than 15 seconds to elapse between any steps, the radio automatically reverts to time and you must start the procedure over at Step 4. 1. Write down any three or four-digit number from

000 to 1999 and keep it in a safe place separate from the vehicle.

2. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY or RUN. 3. Turn the radio off. 4. Press the 1 and 4 buttons together. Hold them down until --- shows on the display. Next you will use the secret code number which you have written down.

5. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display.

6. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree

with your code.

7. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree

with your code.

8. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the

code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show REP to let you know that you need to repeat Steps 5 through 7 to confirm your secret code.

9. Press AM-FM and this time the display will show SEC to let you know that your radio is secure. The LED indicator by the volume control will begin flashing when the ignition is turned off.

Unlocking the Theft-Deterrent Feature After a Power Loss Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between steps: 1. Turn the ignition on. LOC will appear on the display. 2. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display. 3. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree

with your code.

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4. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree

with your code.

6. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree

with your code.

5. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the

code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show SEC, indicating the radio is now operable and secure.

7. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the

code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show ---, indicating that the radio is no longer secured.

If you enter the wrong code eight times, INOP will appear on the display. You will have to wait an hour with the ignition on before you can try again. When you try again, you will only have three chances to enter the correct code before INOP appears. If you lose or forget your code, contact your dealer. Disabling the Theft-Deterrent Feature Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between steps: 1. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY or RUN. 2. Turn the radio off. 3. Press the 1 and 4 buttons together. Hold them down

until SEC shows on the display.

4. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display. 5. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree

with your code.

If the code entered is incorrect, SEC will appear on the display. The radio will remain secured until the correct code is entered. When battery power is removed and later applied to a secured radio, the radio won’t turn on and LOC will appear on the display. To unlock a secured radio, see “Unlocking the Theft-Deterrent Feature After a Power Loss” earlier in this section. Understanding Radio Reception

AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it.

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FM Stereo FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go. Tips About Your Audio System Hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe sound level before your hearing adapts to it. To help avoid hearing loss or damage: D Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting. D Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably

and clearly.

NOTICE:

Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle -- like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two-way radio -- be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, Delco Electronics radio or other systems, and even damage them. Your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly. So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check Federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.

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Care of Your Cassette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight and extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate properly or may cause failure of the tape player. Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every 50 hours of use. Your radio may display CLN to indicate that you have used your tape player for 50 hours without resetting the tape clean timer. If this message appears on the display, your cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to your tapes and player. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if it is the tape or the tape player at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player. The recommended cleaning method for your cassette tape player is the use of a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn. The recommended cleaning cassette is available through your dealership (GM Part No. 12344789).

When using a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette, it is normal for the cassette to eject because your unit is equipped with a cut tape detection feature and a cleaning cassette may appear as a broken tape. To prevent the cleaning cassette from being ejected, use the following steps. If your vehicle is equipped with the AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player: 1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY. 2. Turn the radio on. 3. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette. 4. Within five seconds, press and hold the REV and

FWD buttons at the same time for three seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash, showing that the cut tape detection feature is no longer active.

5. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s

recommended cleaning time.

If your vehicle is equipped with the AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player and Automatic Tone Control: 1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY. 2. Turn the radio off.

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3. Press and hold the TAPE AUX button for five

seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash for two seconds.

4. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette. 5. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s

recommended cleaning time.

When the cleaning cassette has been ejected, the cut tape detection feature is active again. You may also choose a non-scrubbing action, wet-type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject on its own. A non-scrubbing action cleaner may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner. The use of a non-scrubbing action, dry-type cleaning cassette is not recommended. After you clean the player, press and hold EJECT for five seconds to reset the CLN indicator. The radio will display --- to show the indicator was reset. Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced.

Care of Your Compact Discs Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the signal surface when handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge. Care of Your Compact Disc Player The use of CD lens cleaner discs is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism. Fixed Mast Antenna The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should replace it. Check every once in a while to be sure the mast is still tightened to the fender.

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Section 4 Your Driving and the Road

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Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions. We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.

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Defensive Driving Drunken Driving Control of a Vehicle Braking Steering Off-Road Recovery Passing Loss of Control Driving at Night Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads City Driving

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Freeway Driving Before Leaving on a Long Trip Highway Hypnosis Hill and Mountain Roads Winter Driving Recreational Vehicle Towing Loading Your Vehicle Towing a Trailer (Models with 2.4L L4 Engine and 4-Speed Automatic Transaxle) Towing a Trailer (Except Models with 2.4L L4 Engine and 4-Speed Automatic Transaxle)

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Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task -- such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor -- makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.

Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.)

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Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: D Judgment D Muscular Coordination D Vision D Attentiveness. Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, over 17,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured. Many adults -- by some estimates, nearly half the adult population -- choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws.

The obvious way to solve the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things: D The amount of alcohol consumed D The drinker’s body weight D The amount of food that is consumed before and

during drinking

D The length of time it has taken the drinker to

consume the alcohol.

According to the American Medical Association, a 180-lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.

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Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in many U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In a growing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, the limit is 0.08 percent. In some other countries, it’s even lower. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!

It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men.

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The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking -- driver or passenger -- is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

CAUTION:

Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious -- or even fatal -- collision if you drive after drinking. Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

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Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.

Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle. 4-6

Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking -- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

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Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes (ABS). ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start your engine, or when you begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves or pulses a little. This is normal.

If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, this warning light will stay on. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

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The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.

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Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet. You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS. A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at both rear wheels.

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You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.

Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel a slight brake pedal pulsation or notice some noise, but this is normal.

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Enhanced Traction System If your vehicle has the optional four-speed automatic transaxle, it also has an Enhanced Traction System (ETS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only when the transaxle shift lever is in the REVERSE (R), THIRD (3) or OVERDRIVE (B) position and the system senses that one or both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system reduces engine power and may also upshift the transaxle to limit wheel spin.

This light will come on when your Enhanced Traction System is limiting wheel spin. See “Enhanced Traction System Active Light” in the Index.

You may feel or hear the system working, but this is normal.

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When the transaxle shift lever is in any position other than FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and the parking brake is fully released, this warning light will come on to let you know if there’s a problem with the system.

See “Enhanced Traction System Warning Light” in the Index. When this warning light is on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly. The Enhanced Traction System can operate when the transaxle shift lever is in any position other than FIRST (1) or SECOND (2). To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should use the other shift lever positions only when necessary. See “Automatic Transaxle” in the Index. (If your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, see “Rocking Your Vehicle” in the Index.)

When you move the shift lever to FIRST (1) or SECOND (2), the system will turn off. The Enhanced Traction System warning light will come on and stay on. If the Enhanced Traction System is limiting wheel spin when you move the shift lever to another position, the system won’t turn off right away. It will wait until there’s no longer a current need to limit wheel spin. You can turn the system back on at any time by moving the shift lever to any position other than FIRST (1) or SECOND (2). The Enhanced Traction System warning light should go off. Braking in Emergencies With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.

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Steering Tips

Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems -- steering and acceleration -- have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. Refer to “Enhanced Traction System” in the Index.

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What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

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Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking -- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action -- steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. (See “Braking in Emergencies” earlier in this section.) It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

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An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

Off-Road Recovery You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

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Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: D “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.

D Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines.

If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.

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D Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to

pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.

D When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,

start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.

D If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

D Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)

D Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time

on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.

D Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.

D If you’re being passed, make it easy for the

following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

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Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If you have the Enhanced Traction System, remember: It helps avoid only the acceleration skid.

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If you do not have the Enhanced Traction System, or if the transaxle shift lever is not in the OVERDRIVE (B) position, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

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Here are some tips on night driving. D Drive defensively. D Don’t drink and drive. D Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the

glare from headlamps behind you.

D Since you can’t see as well, you may need to

slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.

D Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your

headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.

D In remote areas, watch for animals. D If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place

and rest.

Driving at Night

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

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Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

Night Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps.

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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

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The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.

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CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.

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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water

City Driving

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NOTICE:

If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

D Have good tires with proper tread depth.

(See “Tires” in the Index.)

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One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

Freeway Driving

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Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: D Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most

large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)

D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is

there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.

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The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Chevrolet dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.

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Here are some things you can check before a trip: D Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are

all windows clean inside and outside? D Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? D Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked

all levels?

D Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? D Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,

trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

D Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook

along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? D Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a

comfortably cool interior.

D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to

the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently.

D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. D Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

D Know how to go down hills. The most important

thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

CAUTION:

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

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CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

D Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down

to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better.

D Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane

roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

Winter Driving

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Here are some tips for winter driving: D Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your trunk.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. If you have the Enhanced Traction System, keep the transaxle shift lever in the OVERDRIVE (B) position so the system will be able to operate. It will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has this system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See “Enhanced Traction System” in the Index. If you don’t have the Enhanced Traction System, accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

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Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index. D Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

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D Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that

you’ve been stopped by the snow.

D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: D Turn on your hazard flashers.

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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. Recreational Vehicle Towing You can tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for use at your destination. Be sure to use the proper towing equipment designed for recreational towing. Follow the instructions for towing equipment.

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4. Turn the ignition key to OFF to unlock the steering

wheel. See ”Ignition Positions” in the Index.

5. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position

with a clamping device designed for towing.

6. Release the parking brake. When you are finished towing, make sure you replace the CLS/PCM fuse in the instrument panel fuse block. Towing Your Vehicle From the Front 4-Speed Automatic and 5-Speed Manual Transaxles (Without a Dolly) You may tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground for unlimited miles if you have a four-speed automatic or a five-speed manual transaxle. If your vehicle has a three-speed automatic transaxle, it may not be towed in this manner. To tow a vehicle with a four-speed automatic or a five-speed manual transaxle, follow these steps:

Towing Your Vehicle from the Front 3-Speed Automatic Transaxle (With a Dolly)

Follow these steps: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Set the parking brake. 3. Open the fuse panel on the driver’s side of the

instrument panel. Remove the fuse labeled CLS/PCM. This will keep your battery from draining while towing. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index.

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3. Turn the ignition key to OFF to unlock the

steering wheel.

4. Shift your transaxle to NEUTRAL (N). 5. Release the parking brake. When you are finished towing, make sure you replace the CLS/PCM fuse in the instrument panel fuse block.

NOTICE:

Make sure that the towing speed does not exceed 65 mph (110 km/h), or your vehicle could be badly damaged.

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1. Set the parking brake. 2. Open the fuse panel on the driver’s side of the

instrument panel. Remove the fuse labeled CLS/PCM. This will keep your battery from draining while towing. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index.

Towing Your Vehicle from the Rear All Transaxles

Loading Your Vehicle

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NOTICE:

Do not tow your vehicle from the rear. Your vehicle could be badly damaged and the repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

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Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver’s door tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called the Vehicle Capacity Weight, and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options.

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CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

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The other label is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 132 lbs. (60 kg) in your trunk.

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Towing a Trailer (Models with 2.4L L4 Engine and 4-Speed Automatic Transaxle)

CAUTION:

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Do not tow a trailer if your vehicle is equipped with a 2.2L L4 (Code 4) engine. You also cannot tow a trailer if your vehicle is equipped with a manual or a three-speed automatic transaxle, or is a convertible model.

CAUTION:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. D Put things in the trunk or rear area of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly. If you have fold-down rear seats, you’ll find four anchors on the back wall of your trunk. You can use these anchors to tie down lighter loads. They’re not strong enough for heavy things, however, so put them as far forward as you can in the trunk or rear area.

D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in

your vehicle.

D When you carry something inside the

vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

D Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you

need to.

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Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with a 2.4L L4 engine and 4 speed automatic transaxle and the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: D There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

D Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch

dealer about sway controls.

D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you

tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

D Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers (or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h)) to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

D Do not tow when the ambient temperature is above

100_F (38_C).

D Do not tow more than 1,000 miles (1 600 km)

per year.

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In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: D the weight of the trailer, D the weight of the trailer tongue D and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at: Chevrolet Motor Division Customer Assistance Center P.O. Box 7047
Troy, MI 48007-7047

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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information Label at the rear edge of the driver’s door, or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: D The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for

hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

D Will you have to make any holes in the body of your

vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.

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If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

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Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

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Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

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When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

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Driving On Grades

Parking on Hills

NOTICE:

CAUTION:

Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal engine and transaxle temperatures may result and damage your vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to allow the engine and transaxle to cool.

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. Pay attention to the engine coolant gage. If the indicator is in the red area, turn off the air conditioning (if you have this option) to reduce engine load (see “Engine Overheating” in the Index).

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking

brake, and then shift to PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: D Start your engine; D Shift into a gear; and D Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index. Towing A Trailer (Except Models with 2.4L L4 Engine and 4-Speed Automatic Transaxle) Do not tow a trailer if your vehicle is: D a convertible model, D equipped with a 2.2L L4 (Code 4) engine or D equipped with a manual transaxle or a three-speed

automatic transaxle.

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- NOTES

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Section 5 Problems on the Road

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Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

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Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating

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Cooling System If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire Compact Spare Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

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Hazard Warning Flashers

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Move the switch to the right to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what