2003 Chevrolet Blazer Owners Manual

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. if you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid The windshield washer fluid reservoir is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for more information on location.

/ - / \

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

Notice:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is

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that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic s’--’ern.

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-31.

Checking Brake YOU can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

Fluid

Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.

Notice:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-32. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firm’--’

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice; Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco@ battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco@ battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

ries have acid that call durn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature (Non-RDS Radios) on page 3-68 or Theft-Deterrent Feature (RDS Radios) on page 3-69.

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Jump Starting

If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

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Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).

Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compariment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location of the battery.

ttery

tch near a battery can cause

Using a I gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco@ battery (or batteries) installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative(-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

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6. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

. . .

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

9. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next

step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

10. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

11. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for awhile.

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12. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If

it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Nofice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery 5. Dead Battery

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Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Pat? D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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How to Check Lubricant

Four-wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-31.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.

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Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Bulb Replacement See Replacement Bulbs on page 5-53 for the proper types of bulbs to use. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your GM dealer. Halogen Bulbs

Headlamps One-Piece Composite Headlamp System 1. Open the hood.

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

2. Remove the black retainer clips by lifting up. 3. Pull the headlamp assembly out. 4. Unplug the electrical connector.

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Two-Piece Composite Headlamp System 1. Open the hood.

5. Turn the bulb/socket assembly counterclockwise to

remove it.

6. Put the new bulb/socket assembly into the

headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.

7. Plug in the electrical connector. 8. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle. 9. Install the two retaining clips. IO. Close the hood.

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2. Remove the black retainer clips by lifting up. 3. Pull the headlamp assembly out.

One-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as shown

under Headlamps on page 5-49 for “One-Piece Composite Headlamp System.”

2. Twist the bulb socket to remove it from the headlamp assembly.

4. Turn the bulb/socket assembly counterclockwise to

remove it.

5. Put the new bulb/socket assembly into the

headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.

6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle. 8. Install the two retaining clips. 9. Close the hood.

3. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the

socket.

4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it snaps into

place.

5. Put the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and

turn it clockwise until it is tight.

6. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle. 7. Install the two retaining clips. 8. Close the hood.

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Two-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as shown under

Headlamps on page 5-49 for “Two-Piece Composite Headlamp System. ”

2. Locate the locking tabs

on the assembly. Squeeze the tabs together and push that end of the assembly out while holding the tabs. The assembly will swing out.

3. Unplug the electrical connector.

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4. Turn the harness bulb socket counterclockwise to

remove it.

5. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the

socket.

6. Push the new bulb into the socket until it snaps into

place.

7. Reinstall the harness bulb socket with the new bulb

into the headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight. To reinstall the assembly, snap the outboard end of the lamp assembly back into the vehicle. Then swing the assembly in and snap it into place.

8. Install the two retaining clips. 9. Close the hood.

Taillamps

1. Open the tailgate.

2. Remove the two

screws from the lamp assembly.

3. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle.

4. Turn the socket counterclockwise to remove it.

Push the tab in while you turn the socket counterclockwise.

5. Holding the base of the bulb, pull the bulb straight

out of the socket.

6. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it

clicks.

7. Put the socket into the assembly and turn the

socket clockwise until it locks in place.

8. Install the lamp assembly and tighten the screws. 9. Close the tailgate. Replacement Bulbs

Lamp

Halogen Headlamps, Composite Low Beam Halogen Headlamps, Composite High Beam I Front Sidemarker Taillamw I Turn Signal Lamps *For replacement bulbs not listed here, please consult your dealer.

Number 9006 HB4 or 9006LL 9005 HB3 3057 _ _ _ I194 NA I 3457A

LamDs

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” under Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-82 for more information.

Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5-96. Notice: Use care when removing or installing a blade assembly. Accidental bumping can cause the arm to fall back and strike the windshield. 1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm

until it locks into a vertical position.

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A

A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab

D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook

2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking

tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.

3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The

insert has two notches at one end that are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D),

notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.

5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.

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Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position like the windshield wiper blade, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle.

A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation

C. Incorrect Installation

6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm

hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly

onto the windshield.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see

)ur GMC Warranty booklet for details.

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle’’ in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

\Continued)

Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure

The CertificationRire label, which is on the driver’s door edge, above the door latch, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear Bad handling

0 Rough ride

Needless damage from road hazards

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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire. If you have a compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-60 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-63 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-66.

The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services,” in Section 6, for scheduled rotation intervals.

After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certificationflire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications c- page 5-94.

When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire or a spare tire that does not match your vehicle’s regular road tires and wheels in size and type, do not include the spare in the tire rotation.

st or dirt on a wheel, or on

le parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

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When It Is Time for New Tires

Buying New Tires

To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certificationflire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS’ (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:

You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare (if you have one). It was developed for use on your vehicle.

I ou use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

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Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 5 ) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

ing

le wrong re acemt-.- wheels, whec bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires loseair and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

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Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-66 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels

Putti - a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Tire Chains

Don’t use tire bmlains. There’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

of

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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout”, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.

A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop - well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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Changing a Flat Tire

If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won't move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

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The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jacking equipment you'll need is stored along the driver's side inner rear quarter panel. In some cases, you may have to remove the spare tire in order to reach the jack. Your vehicle is also equipped with work gloves and a plastic ground mat to assist in the changing of a flat tire.

The following instructions explain how to remove the spare tire, depending on where it is mounted on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-78 or Spare Tire on page 5-78 for more information about the spare.

1. To remove your jack cover, pull up on the latch(es) on the cover. Remove the wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench.

. ... .

" .

2. To remove the

underbody-mounted spare, insert the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, into the hoist shaft hoie in the rear bumper. Be sure the chisel end of the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft.

3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare tire. Keep turning the wheel wrench until the spare tire has been completely lowered. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

restow a tire from/to a

Notice; Never remove or stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle the is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle when restowing.

Notice: To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive

vehicle before the cable is restowed.

If you have an inside-mounted spare tire, the tire must be removed in order to have access to the jack storage.

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To remove an inside-mounted spare tire, reach into your tire’s cover and unscrew the wing nut the wheel. Remove it and the retainer. Unhook the tire from the mounting bracket and remove the cover. key. the

To remove a rear-mounted spare tire, first make sure that the carrier arm is fully-latched to the tailgate. Then remove the spare tire cover.

at the center of

Insert

the key and

lock case straight not necessary to

pull the off. It is turn

If you have this feature, the locking wheel nut can be removed by snapping the rubber weather cover off the face of the lock case.

Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

5-68

Removing the Wheel Cover

The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B). Your vehicle may also have an optional hub cap removal tool.

Position the chisel end of your wheel wrench, or the hub cap removal tool (if equipped), in the notch of the hub cap and pry off the hub cap. Some of the molded plastic hub caps have imitation wheel nuts molded into them. The wheel wrench won’t fit these imitation nuts, so don’t try to remove them with the socket end of the wheel wrench.

5-69

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

If you have individual wheel nut caps that cover each nut, they must be removed in order to get to the wheel nuts. Use the socket end of the wheel wrench to remove the wheel nut caps. Your wheel nut caps may attach your hub cap to the wheel. Remove these wheel nut caps before you take off the hub cap.

1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts.

Don’t remove them yet.

2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the jack

lift head.

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3. Fit the jack into the appropriate hole nearest the

flat tire.

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

A. Front Frame Hole B. Rear Frame Hole (2-Door) or Spring Hanger

Hole (4-Door)

L _____ -he jack impr

.,ur vel..,le

l.,ising positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

5-71

6. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle

clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit underneath the wheel well.

5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the fiat tire.

5-72

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

9. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut can’t be turned by hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon as possible.

[ Nev ler use oil or g irease on studs or nut s. If

you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

7. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface. 8. Put the nuts on by

hand. Make sure the rounded end is toward the wheel.

10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

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11. Use the wrench to

tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.

Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Nofice: An aluminum wheel with a flat tire should always be stored under the vehicle with the hoist. However, storing it that way for an extended period could damage the wheel. To avoid this, have the wheel repaired as soon as possible.

nuts or improp,..y

tightened Incorrect wh,,l wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 Ib-ft (1 40 N*m ).

5-74

, / /

Follow this diagram to store the underbody-mounted spare.

4. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the

vehicle by turning the wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.

B’

A. Retainer B. Valve Stem

(Pointed Down)

C. Spare or Flat Tire D. Spring

E. Wheel Wrench F. Lower G. Raise H. Hoist Arm

PUSH & PULL

1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle,

with the valve stem pointed down and to the rear.

2. Pull the retainer through the wheel. 3. Put the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft.

5. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull,

and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable.

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Follow this diagram for the inside-mounted spare.

Follow this diagram for the rear-mounted spare.

A. Spare or Flat Tire B. Retainer C. Nut

D. Wheel Carrier E. Hook

A. Wheel Carrier B. Spare or Flat Tire

C. Wheel Nut and

Locking Nut Cylinder (If Equipped)

5-76

6. Reinstall the locking wheel nut using the wheel wrench. Then push the lock case onto the lug nut until it stops. The key does not have be inserted into the lock. Push the lock case to be sure it is secured. The special lug nut and lock case is not intended to be used on any road wheei, only on the spare wheel carrier. Tighten the nuts on the c-."?el ---vier to 22 to 32 Ib-ft (30 to 40 N -).

to

Make sure the tire and carrier are secure. Driving with the tire or carrier unlatched could injure pedestrians or damage the vehicle.

7. Return the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks to

the proper location in your vehicle's rear area. Secure the items and replace the jack cover.

Use the following diagram as a guide.

A. Retainer B. Rubber Band

(Some Models)

C. Jack Storage Cover D. Wheel Blocks

E. Hub Cap Removal

Tool (Some Models)

F. Wheel Wrench G. Jack H. Jacking Instructions

5-77

Compact Spare Tire

The compact spare tire is a temporary replacement tire made to perform at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) and for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km). With the compact spare installed, you can finish your trip and then have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced. Of course, it’s best to repair or replace the damaged road tire as soon as you can. Your compact spare tire will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again. The compact spare may lose air after a time, so check the inflation pressure regularly. After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, stop as soon as possible and make sure it’s correctly inflated. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). Don’t use your compact spare tire on other vehicles and don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires, they won’t fit. Keep your compact spare and its wheel together. Don’t include the compact spare in your tire rotation.

Nofice: When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

5-78

Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully inflated spare tire. A spare tire, whether compact-size or full-size, may lose air over time, so check its inflation pressure regularly. See Inflation -- Tire Pressure on page 5-58 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-49 for information regarding proper tire inflation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-66. After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare is correctly inflated. Have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, a spare tire will be available in case you need it again. Don’t mix tires and wheels of different sizes, because they won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. If your vehicle has the XtremeTM Sport Appearance Package (RPO V4A), the spare tire is smaller than your vehicle’s original road tires, so don’t include the spare in the tire rotation.

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline Benzene Naphtha Carbon Tetrachloride

0 Acetone

Paint Thinner

0 Turpentine 0 Lacquer Thinner

Nail Polish Remover

they can all damage your vehicle, too.

They can all be hazardous - some more than others -and Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: 0 Alcohol

Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. FabridCarpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM - approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-85.

5-79

Here are some cleaning tips: 0 Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.

Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set.

0 Carefully scrape off any excess stain.

Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.

Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth.

Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do this more than once. Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.

For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.

5-80

Wood Panels Use a Clean cloth moistened in Warm, soapy water (use mild dish washing soap). Dry the wood immediately with a clean cloth. Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-85. Notices Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger

grid.

Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dm

Do not bleach OL -ye -.-. y belts. If you dc, .t may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Weatherstrips Silicone grease On weatherstrips Will make them last longer, seal better, and silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.

stick or squeak. Apply

not

5-8 1

Cleaning Exterior LampdLenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-85. If your vehicle has a “basecoatklearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoatlclearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoatlclearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-85. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

5-82

Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.

5-83

Aluminum Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels. Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: When applying a tire dressing, always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty. Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials avaliable from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.

5-84

Underbody Maintenance

Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed: accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

Chemical Paint Spotting

Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms; blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing the following products.

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

Description

Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish White Sidewall Tire Cleaner

Vinyl Cleaner

Glass Cleaner

Usage

Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil and asphalt. Use on chrome or stainless steel. Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints.

5-85

GM Vehicle Care/A (C(

Dpearance Materials Int’d)

Description

Wash Wax Concentrate

Spot Lifter

Odor Eliminator

Usage Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free. Quickly and easily removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl and cloth upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet.

See your General Motors parts department for these products. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

(cont’d)

Description

Usage

Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner

Finish Enhancer

~~~~~

~~

Swirl Remover Polish

Cleaner Wax

Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss

Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers. Removes dust, fingerprints, and surface contaminants, Spray on wipe off. Removes swirl marks, fine scratches and other light surface contamination. Removes light scratches and protects finish. Cleans, shines and protects in one easy step, no wiping necessary.

5-86

Vehicle Identification

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:

your VIN, the model designation,

0 paint information and

a list of all production options and special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

SAMPLE4UXl M072675

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.

5-87

Electrical System Add-on Electrical Equipment Notice: Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-57. Headlamps The headlamp wiring is protected by an internal circuit breaker. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away. Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow or ice, the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem, be sure to get it fixed.

5-88

Power Windows and Other Power Options

Circuit breakers protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy. the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.

Fuses and Circuit Breakers

The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without- like the radio or cigarette lighter-and use amperage. Replace it as soon as you can.

its fuse, if it is the correct

Instrument Panel Fuse Block

The instrument panel fuse block is located at the end of the instrument panel on the driver's side of the vehicle.

-4

ILLUM

1 N

I ISTR

WHLJ ILLUM

Remove the cover by turning the fastener counterclockwise. Extra fuses and the fuse extractor are provided in the cover. To reinstall the fuse panel cover, push in and turn the fastener clockwise.

Fuse

Usage Not Used Not Used Not Used Cigarette Lighter, Data Link Connector

5-89

Fuse

10 11 12 13

Usage Cruise Control Module and Switch, Body Control Module, Heated Seats Gages, Body Control Module, Instrument Panel Cluster Parking Lamps, Power Window Switch, Body Control Module, Ashtray Lamp Steering Wheel Radio Controls Headlamps Switch, Body Control Module, Headlamp Relay Courtesy Lamps, Battery Run-Down Protection Heating, Ventilation, Air Cooling Control Head (Manual) Turn Signal Cluster, Engine Control Module Interior Lights Auxiliary Power

Fuse 14 15

16 17 18 19 20 2’

22 23 24

Usage Power Locks Motot 4WD Switch, Engine Controls (VCM, PCM, Transmission) Supplemental Inflatable Restraint Front Wiper Steering Wheel Radio Controls Radio, Battery Amplifier Heating, Ventilation, Air Cooling (Manual), Heating,Ventilation, Air Cooling (Automatic), Heating, Ventilation, Air Cooling Sensors (Automatic) Anti-Lock Brakes Rear Wiper Radio, Ignition

5-90

Engine Compartment Fuse Block

The engine compartment fuse block is located under the hood on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Remove the cover by turning the fastener counterclockwise. To reinstall the fuse panel cover, push in and turn the fastener clockwise.

Fuse

Usage Trailer Left Turn Trailer Right Turn Trailer Back Up Lamps Vehicle Back Up Lamps

TRL TRN TRR TRN TRL B/U VEH B/U HDLP PWR Headlamp Power

5-91

Fuse

RT TURN LT TURN HDLP W/W LT TRN RT TRN RR PRK TRL PRK LTHDLP RTHDLP FRPRK INT BAT ENG I

ECM B

ABS ECM I !=/PUMP

Usage Right Turn Signal Front Left Turn Signal Front Not Used Left Turn Signal Rear Right Turn Signal Rear Right Rear Parking Lamps Trailer Park Lamps Left Headlamp Right Headlamp Front Parking Lamps Instrument Panel Fuse Block Feed Engine Sensors/Solenoids, MAF, CAM, PURGE, VENT Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump Module, Oil Pressure Anti-Lock Brake System Engine Control Module Injectors Fuel Pump

5-92

Fuse DRL A/C HORN

W/W PMP

HORN BTSl

B/U LP IGN B

STARTER

RAP LD LEV OXYSEN

IGN E

MI R/LKS FOG LP IGN A

STUD #2

Usage Daytime Running Lamps Air Conditioning Horn Not Used Horn Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control System Back Up Lamps Column Feed,lgnition 2, 3, 4 Starter Retained Accessory Power Not Used Oxygen Sensor Engine Mirrors, Door Locks Fog Lamps Starting and Charging Ignition 1 Accessory Feeds, Electric Brake

Fuse PARKLP LR PRK

LIFTGLASS

IGN C

HTDSEAT

HVAC

TRCHMSL RRDFOG

TBC

Usage Parking Lamps Left Rear Parking Lamps Liftglass Starter Solenoid, Fuel Pump, PRNDL Heated Seat Heating,Ventilation, Air Cooling System Trailer Center High Mount Stop Light Rear Defogger Truck Body Computer

Fuse CRANK CHMSL HAZLP

VECHMSL

RR DEFOG HTDMIR

ATC

STOPLP RR W/W

Usage Clutch Switch, NSBU Switch Center High Mounted Stoplamp Hazard Lamps Vehicle Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp Rear Defogger Heated Mirror Transfer Case (Four-wheel Drive) Stop Lamps Rear Window Wiper

5-93

Capacities and Specifications

Wheels and Tires

Firina Order

1-6-5-4-3-2

Wheel Nut Torque 100 Ib-ft

(140 N. m)

Tire Pressure

See the CertificationRire label. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Capacities Please refer to Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33 for more information.

Cooling System*

Application

English

Capacities

Metric

*All capacities are approximate. After refill, the level must be checked.

5-94

Air Conditioning Refrigerant Capacity If you do your own service work, you’ll need the proper service manual. See Doing Your Own Service Work on page 5-4 for additional information. It is recommended that service work on your air conditioning system be performed by a qualified technician.

5-95

Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

20 inches (51 cm)

**GM Part No.

5-96

Section 6 Maintenance Schedule

..............

Maintenance Schedule ...................................... 6.2 Introduction ................................................... 6.2 Your Vehicle and the Environment .................... 6-2 ..... 6.2 Maintenance Requirements How This Section is Organized ..................... 6-3 Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services ........... 6.4 Using Your Maintenance Schedule .................... 6-4 ........................... 6.5 Selecting the Right Schedule Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance .............. 6.6 ..... -6-1 7 Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance Part B: Owner Checks and Services ................ 6-26 At Each Fuel Fill .......................................... 6-26 At Least Once a Month ................................. 6-26 At Least Twice a Year ................................... 6-27