Download PDF Manual

vehicle may fail a smog-check test. (See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.) If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.


6-4


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).


General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7


Filling Your Tank


CAUTION:


Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.


6-5


The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on driver’s side of your vehicle.


While refueling, hang the cap by the tether from the hook on the filler door. To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.


6-6


CAUTION:


NOTICE:


If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.


If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.


6-7


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


Checking Things Under the Hood


CAUTION:


CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into


approved containers.


D Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.


6-8


To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle on the lower driver’s side of the instrument panel.


Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.


Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. You may have a lamp that comes on when you lift the hood.


6-9


When you lift the hood, you’ll see these items:


A. Battery B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Engine Oil Dipstick D. Engine Oil Fill E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick


6-10


F. Power Steering Reservoir G. Brake Master Cylinder H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter I. Fuse Block J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then just pull the hood down firmly to close. It will latch when dropped from 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) without pressing on the hood. Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.


The oil dipstick is a yellow ring.


Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


6-11


Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.


NOTICE:


Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.


6-12


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.


If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.


You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:


6-13


As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.


NOTICE:


Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.


GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.


6-14


Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).


This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.


D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent


driving in stop-and-go traffic).


D You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or


off-road frequently.


D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of


your vehicle.


D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi


or other commercial application.


Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first.


If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower. Remote Oil Filter (Four-Wheel Drive)


The access door for the remote oil filter is in the steering linkage shield assembly located under the radiator support. Twist the screw to unlock or lock the door. If you open the door, make sure it is securely closed when you are finished.


What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


6-15


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


1. To remove the air cleaner, remove the fasteners that


hold the cover on.


2. Remove the cover and lift out the air filter. 3. Insert a new air filter, then replace the air


cleaner cover.


4. Tighten the fasteners to hold the cover in place.


6-16


CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


NOTICE:


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.


Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature


regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.


D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.


NOTICE:


Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.


6-17


Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.


Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50_F (10_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.


Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the


engine running.


D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).


D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.


6-18


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


1. The handle for the


automatic transmission dipstick is located near the center of the engine compartment. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower


level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check. 4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


6-19


How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.


NOTICE:


We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as


described under “How to Check.”


D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


6-20


Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.


NOTICE:


Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.


Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps:


1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of


the filler plug hole.


3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure


it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.


How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


6-21


When to Check and What to Use


Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. How to Check and Add Fluid The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap.


6-22


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four-Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case


When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.


How to Check Lubricant


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten plug.


What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


6-23


Front Axle


When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


How to Check Lubricant


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant.


6-24


When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.


A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


NOTICE:


When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.


CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.


6-25


Checking Coolant


NOTICE:


If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.


If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.


NOTICE:


If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.


6-26


Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.


CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see “Cooling System” in the Index.


CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.


Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


6-27


Radiator Pressure Cap


Power Steering Fluid


NOTICE:


Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.


6-28


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.


Adding Washer Fluid


Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.


6-29


NOTICE:


D When using concentrated washer fluid,


follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.


D Fill your washer fluid tank only


three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


6-30


Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.


So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


Checking Brake Fluid


You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.


CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.


Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.


6-31


What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


NOTICE:


D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage


brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.


D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.


6-32


Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).


CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


NOTICE:


Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.


6-33


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery.


Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.


6-34


Headlamps One-Piece Composite Headlamp System 1. Open the hood.


Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your GM dealer’s service department. Halogen Bulbs


CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


2. Remove the black retainer clips by lifting up. 3. Pull the headlamp assembly out. 4. Unplug the electrical connector.


6-35


Two-Piece Composite Headlamp System 1. Open the hood.


5. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to


remove it.


6. Put the new bulb assembly into the headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.


7. Plug in the electrical connector. 8. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.


Install the two retaining clips.


6-36


2. Remove the black retainer clips by lifting up. 3. Pull the headlamp assembly out.


One-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamp Assembly 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as shown under


“One-Piece Composite Headlamp System” earlier in this section.


2. Twist the bulb socket to


remove it from the headlamp assembly.


3. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. 4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it snaps


into place.


5. Put the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and turn


it clockwise until it is tight.


6. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.


Install the two retaining clips.


6-37


4. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to


remove it.


5. Put the new bulb assembly into the headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.


6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.


Install the two retaining clips.


Two-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamp Assembly 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as shown under


“Two-Piece Composite Headlamp System” earlier in this section.


2. Locate the locking


tabs on the assembly. Squeeze the tabs together and push that end of the assembly out while holding the tabs. The assembly will swing out.


3. Unplug the electrical connector.


6-38


4. Turn the harness bulb socket counterclockwise to


remove it.


5. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. 6. Push the new bulb into the socket until it snaps


into place.


7. Put the new bulb into the headlamp assembly and


turn it clockwise until it is tight.


8. To replace the assembly, snap the outboard end of


the lamp assembly back into the vehicle. Then swing the assembly in and snap it into place.


9. Install the two retaining clips.


Taillamps 1. Open the endgate/liftgate.


2. Remove the two screws from the lamp assembly.


3. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle. 4. Turn the socket counterclockwise to remove it.


Push the tab in while you turn the socket counterclockwise.


5. Holding the base of the bulb, pull the bulb straight


out of the socket.


6. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until


it clicks.


7. Put the socket into the assembly and turn the socket


clockwise until it locks in place.


8. Install the lamp assembly. Install and tighten


the screws.


9. Close the endgate/liftgate. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in Section 7 of this manual under Part B “Owner Checks and Services” for more information. See “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index for the proper type of replacement blade.


NOTICE:


Use care when removing or installing a blade assembly. Accidental bumping can cause the arm to fall back and strike the windshield.


6-39


1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm


until it locks into a vertical position.


2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab.


Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.


3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The


insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.


A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook


6-40


4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D),


notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.


5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.


6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook.


Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.


7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly


onto the windshield.


Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement See “Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement” in this section for instructions on how to change the backglass wiper blade. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position like the windshield wiper blade, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details.


6-41


A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation


Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Certification/Tire label, which is on the driver’s door edge, above the door latch, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).


NOTICE:


Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy.


NOTICE: (Continued)


CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.


D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as


overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.


D Overinflated tires are more likely to be


cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your


tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


6-42


Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” in the Index. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.


NOTICE: (Continued)


If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards.


When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.


How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


6-43


CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)


When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.


6-44


When It’s Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places


around the tire.


D You can see cord or fabric showing through the


tire’s rubber.


D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep


enough to show cord or fabric.


D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that


can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.


6-45


Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.


CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.


CAUTION:


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


6-46


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


6-47


Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


6-48


CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.


NOTICE:


The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.


See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.


Used Replacement Wheels


CAUTION:


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


Tire Chains


NOTICE:


If your vehicle has P235/75R15, P235/70R15, 235/70R15 or 31x10.50R15LT/C size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance.


NOTICE: (Continued)


NOTICE: (Continued)


Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires. If you have other size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the drive axle tires (four-wheel-drive vehicles can use chains on both axles) and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


6-49


Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: D Alcohol D Laundry Soap D Bleach D Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has two cleaners, Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner and Capture Non-Solvent Dry Spot and Soil Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)


Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.


6-50


Here are some cleaning tips: D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. D Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. D Carefully scrape off any excess stain. D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the


entire area immediately or it will set.


Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.


Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. 3. Mix powdered cleaner following the directions on


the container label to form thick suds.


4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge.


Don’t saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly. 5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge


to remove the suds.


6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, damp towel or cloth. 7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.


Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the


soiled area with cool water.


2. If a stain remains, follow the multi-purpose interior


cleaner instructions described earlier.


3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.


4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to


dry completely.


3. If a stain remains, follow instructions for


Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner.


6-51


Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.


You may have to do it more than once.


D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if


you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.


Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your


dealer for this product.


D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.


D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned


immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.


Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.


CAUTION:


Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.


6-52


Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield.


Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon AmiR Powder (non-scratching glass cleaning powder), GM Part No. 1050011. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.)


6-53


Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.


Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.


NOTICE:


Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.


6-54


Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Cleaning Aluminum Wheels (If Equipped) Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied.


The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on any wheels other than chrome-plated wheels. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels. Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.


NOTICE:


When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.


6-55


At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you. Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.


Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty. Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection.


6-56


GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials


PART NUMBER


SIZE


DESCRIPTION


USAGE


994954
1050172
1050173
1050174
1050214
1050427


Polishing Cloth – Wax Treated


23 in. x 25 in. Tar and Road Oil Remover 16 oz. (0.473 L) Chrome Cleaner and Polish 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) White Sidewall Tire Cleaner 32 oz. (0.946 L) 23 oz. (0.680 L)


Vinyl Cleaner Glass Cleaner


1052918**


8 oz. (0.237 L)


Armor Allt Protectant


Exterior polishing cloth


Removes tar, road oil and asphalt


Use on chrome, stainless steel, nickel, copper and brass


Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops


Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints


Protects leather, wood, acrylics, Plexiglast, plastic,


rubber and vinyl


1052925


16 oz. (0.473 L)


Multi-Purpose Interior


Cleaner


Cleans carpets, seats, interior trim, door panels


and floor mats


Capture Dry Spot Remover


2.5 sq. ft.


Wheel Cleaner


16 oz. (0.473 L) 8 oz. (0.237 L)


1052929
1052930
12345721
12345725
12377964* 12377966* 12377984* See your General Motors Parts Department for these products. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


12 oz. (0.354 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L)


Synthetic Chamois Silicone Tire Shine


Finish Enhancer


Surface Cleaner


Cleaner Wax


Spray on and rinse with water


Attracts, absorbs and removes soils on fabric


Shines vehicle without scratching


Spray on tire shine


Removes dust, fingerprints and surface contaminants Removes light scratches and oxidation and protects finish


Removes contaminants, blemishes and swirl marks


* For exterior use only. **Not recommended for use on instrument panels.


6-57


Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: D your VIN, D the model designation, D paint information and D a list of all production options and


special equipment.


Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.


Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)


This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.


6-58


Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment


NOTICE:


Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.


Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. Headlamps The headlamp wiring is protected by an internal circuit breaker. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away.


Windshield Wipers The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow or ice, the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem, be sure to get it fixed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away. Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating.


6-59


If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette lighter -- and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can. Instrument Panel Fuse Block


The instrument panel fuse block is at the driver’s end of the instrument panel.


Remove the cover by turning the fastener counterclockwise. Extra fuses and the fuse extractor are provided in the cover. To reinstall the fuse panel cover, push in and turn the fastener clockwise.


6-60


Fuse/Circuit


Breaker


Usage


Fuse/Circuit


Breaker


Usage


Not Used Not Used Not Used Cigarette Lighter, Data Link Connector Cruise Control Module and Switch, Body Control Module, Heated Seats Gages, Body Control Module, Instrument Panel Cluster Parking Lamps, Power Window Switch, Body Control Module, Ashtray Lamp Steering Wheel Radio Controls Headlamps Switch, Body control Module, Headlamp Relay Courtesy Lamps, Battery Run-Down Protection HVAC Control Head (Manual)


10
11
12
13
14
15


16
17
18
19
20
21


22
23
24


Turn Signal Cluster, Engine Control Module Interior lights Auxiliary Power Power Locks Motor 4WD Switch, Engine Controls (VCM, PCM, Transmission) Supplemental Inflatable Restraint Front Wiper Steering Wheel Radio Controls Radio, Battery Amplifier HVAC (Manual), HVAC I (Automatic), HVAC Sensors (Automatic) Anti-Lock Brakes Rear Wiper Radio, Ignition


6-61


Engine Compartment Fuse Block


The fuse block is under the hood at the driver’s side of the engine compartment. Remove the cover by turning the fastener counterclockwise. To reinstall the fuse panel cover, push in and turn the fastener clockwise.


6-62


Name TRL TRN TRR TRN TRL B/U VEH B/U RT TURN LT TURN HDLP W/W LT TRN RT TRN RR PRK TRL PRK LTHDLP RTHDLP FRPRK


Usage Trailer Left Turn Trailer Right Turn Trailer Back Up Lamps Vehicle Back Up Lamps Right Turn Signal Front Left Turn Signal Front Not Used Left Turn Signal Rear Right Turn Signal Rear Right Rear Parking Lamps Trailer Park Lamps Left Headlamp Right Headlamp Front Parking Lamps


Name INT BAT ENG I


ECM B


ABS ECM I A/C W/W PMP HORN BTSI


B/U LP IGN B RAP


Usage I/P Fuse Block Feed Engine Sensors/Solenoids, MAF, CAM, PURGE, VENT Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump Module, Oil Pressure Anti-Lock Brake System Engine Control Module Injectors Air Conditioning Not Used Horn Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control System Back Up Lamps Column Feed, IGN 2, 3, 4
Retained Accessory Power


6-63


Usage Not Used Oxygen Sensor Engine Mirrors, Door Locks Fog Lamps Starting and Charging IGN 1
Accessory Feeds, Electric Brake Parking Lamps Left Rear Parking Lamps Starter Solenoid, Fuel Pump, PRNDL Heated Seat HVAC System


Name TRCHMSL


RRDFOG TBC CRANK HAZLP VECHMSL


HTDMIR ATC STOPLP RR W/W


Usage Trailer Center High Mount Stop Light Rear Defogger Truck Body Computer Clutch Switch, NSBU Switch Hazard Lamps Vehicle Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp Heated Mirror Transfer Case (Four-Wheel Drive) Stop Lamps Rear Window Wiper


Name LD LEV OXYSEN IGN E MIR/LKS FOG LP IGN A STUD #2
PARKLP LR PRK IGN C


HTDSEAT HVAC


6-64


Quantity


Number 9006 HB4
9005 HB3
3057
194 NA 3157
3157 NA


Replacement Bulbs Lamps Halogen Headlamps, Composite Low Beam Halogen Headlamps, Composite High Beam Tail and Stop Lamps Front Sidemarker Lamps Front Turn Signal Lamps Turn Signal Lamps Capacities and Specifications Engine Description Type VIN Code Firing Order Horsepower Thermostat Specification Spark Plug Gap


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


. . . . . . . . . . . .


. . . . . . . . . . .


. . . . . . . . . .


“VORTEC” 4300
V6
1-6-5-4-3-2
190 at 4,400 rpm 195_F (91_C) 0.060 inches (1.52 mm)


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


Wheels and Tires Wheel Nut Torque Tire Pressure


. . . . . . . . . . .


100 lb-ft (140 N·m) See the Certification/Tire label. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.


. . . . . .


6-65


Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts Replacement part numbers listed in this section are based on the latest information available at the time of printing, and are subject to change. If a part listed in this manual is not the same as the part used in your vehicle when it was built, or if you have any questions, please contact your GM dealer. Thermostat Oil Filter Air Cleaner Filter PCV Valve Automatic Transmission Filter Kit Spark Plugs Fuel Filter Front Windshield


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


12559051
PF52
A1163C CV769C 24200796
41-932
GF481


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


Wiper Blade


Backglass Wiper Blade


. . . . . . . . . . . . .


Trico (20 inches/50.8 cm) Trico (14 inches/35.6 cm)


Capacities (Approximate) Please refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for more information. Cooling System*


Automatic Trans. Manual Trans. Crankcase* Automatic Transmission


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


11.7 quarts (11.1 L) 11.9 quarts (11.3 L) 4.5 quarts (4.3 L)


(Drain and Refill)*


. . . . . . . . .


5.0 quarts (4.7 L)


Differential Fluid


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


Rear Front Fuel Tank (2-Door Models) Fuel Tank (4-Door Models) A/C Refrigerant


. .

Loading...
x