1994 Chevrolet Blazer Owners Manual

5. Spare Tire

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Aluminum Wheel:

I . Nut 2. Retainer 3. Valve Stem

(Pointed Down)

4. Hook 5. Spare Tire

1. Valve Stem

(Pointed Rearward)

2. Wheel Carrier 3. Spare Tire :1 Nut 4. Whee

1 . Hook 2. Spare Tire 3. Nut 4. Retainer

(2-Wheel Drive)

5. Retainer

(4-Wheel Drive)

6. Valve Stem

(Pointed Outboard)

7. Wheel Carrier

Rear-Mounted Spare Tire (Four-Door Models)

Inside-Mounted Spare Tire (Four-Door Models)

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Spare Tire

Your spare tire is in your vehicle's rear area, either mounted to the left wall, the floor, or the endgate. If you have a left-wall or floor-mounted spare tire, the tire must be removed in order to have access to the jack storage. TO Remove the Side-Mounted or Floor-Mounted Spare Tire

Reach into your tire's cover and unscrew the wingnut at the center of the wheel. Remove it and the retainer. Unhook the tire from the mounting bracket and remove the cover.

To Remove the Endgate-Mounted Spare Tire

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Changing the Tire

Use the socket end of your wheel wrench to remove the wheel nuts that secure the tire to the carrier. Then, lift the tire off its mounting bracket.

Start with the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks.

Rotate the jackhandle to the right. That will raise the jack lifthead a little.

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Before you start, block the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. Put your spare tire near the flat tire.

Hub Caps And Wheel Nut Caps You will have to take off hub caps or wheel nut caps to reach your wheel nuts.

- -

If you have individual wheel nut caps that cover each nut, they must be removed in order to get the wheel nuts. Use the socket end of the wheel wrench to remove the wheel nut caps.

Your wheel nut caps may attach your hub cap to the wheel. Remove these wheel nut caps before you take off the hub cap. If you have just an aluminum or plastic molded hub cap, pry it off with the chisel end of your wheel wrench.

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k

...

Some of the molded plastic hub caps have imitation wheel nuts molded into them. The wheel wrench won’t fit these imitation nuts, so don’t try to remove them with the socket end of the wheel wrench.

Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet. Position the jack under the vehicle.

ce,

A B-

A. Front Frame Hole B. Rear Frame Hole Your vehicle has a hole in the frame near each front wheel, and a hole in the spring hanger near each rear wheel for the jack. Fit the jack into the hole nearest the flat tire.

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NOTICE: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

h.

Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench to the right. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

Remove all the wheel nuts.

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Take off the flat tire.

Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

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Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might cum@ loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

Put on the spare tire.

~~

Put the nuts on by hand. Make sure the cone-shaped end is toward the wheel.

Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut can't be turned by hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon as possible.

Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench to the left. Lower the jack completely.

si:..

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Tightening Wheel Nut

Tightening Sequence

Use the wrench to tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Remove the wheel blocks.

Storing The Jack and Spare Tire Return the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks to the proper location on the left wall of your vehicle’s rear area. Secure the items and replace the jack cover. Put the flat tire in the rear area of your vehicle where the spare tire was stored.

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If you have a floor-mounted spare tire and it has an aluminum wheel, place the hook in the floor ring before placing it through the wheel. If you have a endgate-mounted spare tire carrier, tighten the nuts to 22-32 ft. lb. (30-40 Nem) torque.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

I NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

as

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Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between “R” (Reverse) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between First or Second gear and Reverse), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index. Using the Recovery Hooks

If you ever get stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

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..... . .. 8

NOTICE: Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered

by warranty.

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Service & Appearance Care

Section

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle . This part begins with service and fuel information. and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels . There is also technical information about your vehicle. and a section devoted to its appearance care . Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-2 Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-3 Checking Things Under the Hood .............................. 6-6 Engineoil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-8 Aircleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-14 Automatic Transmission Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-15 Manual Transmission Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-18 Hydraulic Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-20 RearAxle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-20 Transfer Case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-21 FrontAxle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-22 Enginecoolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-23 Power Steering Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-26 Windshield Washer Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-28 Brake Master Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-29 Replacing Brake System Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-30 Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-31 Vehiclestorage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-31 Bulb Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-32 Other Maintenance Items . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-35 Loading Your Vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-39 Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-42 Appearance Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-49 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-58 Service Parts Identification Label . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-60 Fuses and Circuit Breakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-60 Capacities and Specifications Charts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-62

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Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Dohg Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

NOTICE:

I If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough

about it, your vehicle could be damaged.

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Fuel The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.) Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. With the 4.3L (Code W) engine, use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher for high power performance, when towing a trailer or with a high payload requirement. But when operating with a light load as a normal condition, you may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines. The gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the U.S. and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see “UNLEADED” right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane is at least 9 1 for premium, 89 for middle grade and 87 for regular. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 91 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of it. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

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Gasolines for CIeaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7

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Filling ‘Your Tank

The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle.

To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear a clicking noise.

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NOTICE: If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

Checking Things Under the Hood

Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.

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Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. You may have a light that comes on when you lift the hood.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood Prop.

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Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer.

Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on

level ground. I Turn off the engine

and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

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To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip lower.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

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Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Oil to Use Beginning midyear 1993, oils of the proper quality for your vehicle will be identified with this new “starburst” symbol. The “starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for use in your gasoline engine.

You should look for this on the front of the oil container, and use only oils that display this new symbol.

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You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAL VISCOSITY GRADE 011 FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

LOOK FOR ONE OF THESE LABELS

HOT

- +38

WEATHER [ f 20 I

- + 4 - - 7 - - 1 8

- +27 - +16

SAE 5W-30 PREFERRED

+ 40

+ 60

COLD

WEATHER

SAE 1OW-30

IF NEITHER SAE 5W-30 NOR SAE 1OW-30 GRADE OILS ARE AVAILABLE, SAE 30 GRADE MAY BE USED AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 40 DEGREES F (4 DEGREES C). DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE low-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (-1 8°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 1OW-40 or SAE 20W-50. If you cannot find oils with the new “starburst” symbol on the front of the container, you should look for and use oils containing the following three things:

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SHorSG “SH” or “SG” must be on the oil container, either by itself or combined with other quality designations, such as “SH/CD,” “SH, SG, CD,” “SG/CD,” etc. These letters show American Petroleum Institute (API) levels of quality. SAE 5W-30 Energy Conserving I1 Oils with these words on the container will help you save fuel.

These three things are usually included in a doughnut shaped logo (symbol) on most containers. If you cannot find oils with the “starburst” symbol, you should look for oils with the doughnut shaped symbol, containing the three things noted above.

NOTICE: If you use oils that do not have either the “starburst” symbol or an API SH or SG designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

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When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km). It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles ( I 6 km).

0 The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door-to-door

delivery, or in stop-and-go You tow a trailer often.

traffic).

0 Most trips are through dusty places. 0 The vehicle is frequently operated off-road.

If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil andfilter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. If none of them is true, change the oil every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change and at every other oil change after that. Four-wheel Drive Remote Oil Filter If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, you will have a remote oil filter located under the hood. It is mounted to the front left inner fender, behind the headlights. Engine Coolant Heater (Engine Block Heater) An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0°F (-18°C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater ” in the Index. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Air Cleaner

To remove the round air cleaner filter for the 4.3L (VIN Z) engine, turn the wing nuts to the left. Remove the cover and change the filter. Care should be taken during reassembly to ensure that the cover is on straight and the wingnuts are properly tightened.

I “ a

To remove the square air cleaner filter for the 4.3L (VIN W) high performance engine, loosen both wingnuts (one on the duct and one on the cover). Lift the air cleaner assembly up from the vehicle. Open both clamps and lift off cover to change the filter. While reassembling the air cleaner assembly, ensure that the air cleaner cover tabs are fully inserted into the slots in the air cleaner housing, the two wingscrews are secured, and the PCV air tube is properly seated in the left hand valve cover. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index.

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NOTICE: If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at a GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

a fire. Be sure to get

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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).

At high speed for quite a while.

0 In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.

While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). To check transmission fluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), drive the vehicle in “D” (3rd Gear) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures. To check transmissionfluid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

To check the fluid hot or cold 0 Park your vehicle on a level place. 0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in “P’ (Park).

With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in “P” (Park). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

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Then, without shutting ofSthe engine, follow these steps:

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a

clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out

again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid

level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

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4. If the fluid level

is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants’’ in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the COLD area for a cold check or the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint. Don’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluids labeled DEXR0N’-I11 or DEXR0N’-IIE, because fluids with those labels are made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluids other than DEXRON@-I11 or DEXRON@-IIE is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Transmission Fluid

When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing. How fo Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at a GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

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I NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler (upper) plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole. 3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If

the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants’’ in the Index.

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the

fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated.

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Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch in your vehicle is self-adjusting. A slight amount of play (114 inch to 1/2 inch) in the pedal is normal. When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

How to check The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four-Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. TrariSfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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Wow to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

The arrow on the the left shows the drain plug location. The arrow on the right shows the filler plug location.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Front Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. If the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

, .’ @”,

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If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole.

What to use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolanr The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your vehicle will:

0 Give freezing protection down to -20 “F (-29”C), or -34°F (-37°C) in

Canada and for vehicles with the cold climate option. Give boiling protection up to 258°F (125°C).

0 Protect against rust and corrosion.

Help keep the proper engine temperature.

0 Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 6038-M,” which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can use a recycled coolant conforming to “GM Specification 6038-M,” with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

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I NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

Some conditions, such as air trapped in the cooling system, can affect the coolant level in the radiator. Check the coolant level when the engine is cold and follow the steps under “Adding Coolant” for the proper way to add coolant. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Adding Coolant

To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at “ADD,” or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to “FULL HOT,” or a little higher.

To Add Coolant

If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tank.

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Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

Radiator Pressure Cap

NOTICE: Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

When you replace your radiator pressure cap, an A P cap is recommended. See “Service Replacement Part and Filter Recommendations” in the Index.

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Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended. Power Steering Fluid

NOTICE: Always turn the engine off before checking or adding power steering fluid. The power steering cap is close to the fan and other moving parts.

Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it.

Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick.

0 When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the “HOT”

mark.

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0 When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be at the

“FULL COLD” mark.

What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

NOTICE: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Windshield Washer Fluid To Add

Open the cap labeled “WASHER FLUID ONLY.” Add washer fluid until the bottle is full.

NOTICE: 0 When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the

manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

0 Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid, Water can

cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

0 Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full when it’s very cold.

This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint,

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Brakes Brake Master Cylinder

Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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To Check Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the windows on the brake fluid reservoir.

The fluid levels should be above “MIN.” If they aren’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the above “MIN” and below the top of each window. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid - such as Delco Supreme II@ (GM Part No.1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.

levels are

NOTICE: 0 Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. For

example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced.

0 Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

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I NOTICE: I Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in

costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your vehicle does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and

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you have to have new ones put in - be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change, for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Fluid Leak Check After the vehicle has been parked for a while, inspect the surface under the vehicle for water, oil, fuel or other fluids. Water dripping from the air conditioning system after it has been used is normal. If you notice fuel leaks or fumes, the causes should be found and corrected at once. Battery Every new vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom@ battery. Get one that has the catalog number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. For more information, contact your dealer’s service department, or write: Adistra Corporation 17 1 Hamilton Street Plymouth, MI 48 170 In Canada, write: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Services Department Oshawa, Ontario L1J 5Z6 Canada

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ulb Replacement

Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lights are off and the engine isn't running. Halogen Bulbs

Headlights

1. Remove the four screws from the headlight retainer. 2. Pull the headlight

out and remove the retainer.

3.

4.

5.

Unplug the headlight. Plug in the new bulb and put it in place. Install the retainer to the headlight.

:::

6. Install the screws.

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Front ParkingKurn Signal Lights 1. Reach under and behind the parkingkurn signal light assembly.

2. Turn the socket to the left and pull it out.

3. Turn the bulb to

the left and pull it out of the socket.

4. Put the new bulb in the socket and turn it to the right until it is tight. 5. Put the socket back into the assembly and turn the socket to the right

until it locks in place.

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Rear Lights 1. Open the endgate.

3. Pull the assembly

away from the fender.

4. Turn tne socket to the left to remove it. If the socket has a tab, push the tab in while you turn the socket.

5. Turn the bulb to the left to remove it. 6. Put the new bulb into the socket and turn the bulb to the right. 7. Put the socket into the light assembly and turn the socket to the right

until it locks in place.

8. Install the light assembly and screws. 9. Close the endgate.

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Other Maintenance Items Front Suspension and Steering Linkage Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to lubricate the fittings and what type of lubricant to use. Front Wheel Bearing (Two- Wheel Drive) If your vehicle is two-wheel drive, it has wheel bearings that must be cleaned and repacked. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often this must be done.

Single Belt Accessory Drive Your new vehicle uses a serpentine belt that is lighter, and more durable than systems with several belts. The belt runs over or around the pulleys on the engine. A tensioner is used to keep the belt tight at all times. 'The tensioner also makes replacing the belt easier. If you need to replace the belt, be sure to get the correct replacement belt. Your dealership or parts supplier can help you with this. The Accessory Drive Belt Routing label on your vehicle will show you how to route the belt your vehicle uses.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Inserts

To replace your windshield wiper blade inserts, lift the wiper arm away from the windshield. Pinch the two tabs on the wiper arm and slide the insert out of the blade. Slide the new one in place. Make sure the tabs are locked into position.

is below 40°F

Air Conditioning Every now and then have your dealership check your air conditioning system to be sure it has not lost any cooling ability. If you think the system is not working properly, have your dealership check it out as soon as possible. The air conditioning will not work when the temperature (4°C). Lubrication Accelerator Control System Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often the accelerator linkage pivot points must be lubricated and what type of lubricant to use. Accelerator cables and cruise control cables should not be lubricated. Any cables that are worn or are hard to pull should be replaced. When cleaning the engine compartment with water or steam, avoid directing the flow onto the throttle linkage in a manner that would cause moisture to enter the cables. Hood Latches and Hood Hinge Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how to lubricate the hood latch and hood hinge assembly.

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Propeller Shaft Slip Splines/Universal Joints Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often the slip and universal joints must be lubricated and what type of lubricant to use.

Body Normal use of your vehicle will cause metal to metal wear at some points on the cab and body if they are not lubricated. For exposed surfaces, such as door checks, door lock bolts, lock striker plates, dovetail bumper wedges, etc., a thin film of engine oil should be applied. Where oil holes are provided in the body or cab, a dripless oil can be used. The seat adjusters and seat track should be lubricated with chassis grease. Door weatherstrips and rubber hood bumpers should be wiped clean with a wet cloth and lightly coated with a rubber lubricant. Never use too much of any lubricant and be sure to wipe up any extra lubricant when you are finished. Window regulators and controls are inside the doors. They are lubricated with a long lasting grease. If lubrication is required your dealer should perform this service. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to lubricate these items and what type of lubricant to use. Lock Cylinders To be sure your locks operate properly, they must be lubricated. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to lubricate them and what type of lubricant to use. You should not use penetrating oils because they could wash out the factory installed lubricant and cause the lock to bind. De-icers which contain alcohol could also wash away the lubricant, so be sure to lubricate the lock after using a de-icer of this type. Endgate Handle The endgate handle pivot points on your vehicle should be lubricated to keep the handle working smoothly. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to lubricate them and what type of lubricant to use.

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Exhaust System ‘To help prevent damage to your exhaust system, do not continue to drive your vehicle if you notice:

Engine misfiring Loss of performance

0 Other unusual operating conditions

Have your engine and exhaust system serviced regularly.

Three- Way Catalytic Converter Your vehicle’s three-way catalytic converter is designed to reduce the pollutants in your vehicle’s exhaust. Use only unleaded fuel in your vehicle. If you use leaded fuel, you could damage your three-way catalytic converter and other engine components. Engine Control Module System This system has an oxygen (02) sensor that helps keep your engine’s air-fuel mixture at a proper level. Use only unleaded fuel in your vehicle. If you use leaded fuel, you could damage your oxygen (02) sensor and affect your vehicle’s emissions.

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (SERVICE ENGINE SOON ) This light on your instrument panel lets you know when your emission system needs service. The light will come on briefly when you start your engine to let you know that the system is working. If it does not come on when you start your engine, or if it comes on and stays on while you’re driving, your system may need service. Your vehicle should still be driveable, but you should have your system serviced right away.

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Loading Your Vehicle

The CertificatiodTire label is found on the driver’s door lock pillar. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. The Certificationnire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.

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I NOTICE:

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

If you put things inside your vehicle - like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else - they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

Payload The Payload Capacity is shown on the Certificationmire label. This is the maximum load capacity that your vehicle can carry. Be sure to include the weight of the people inside as part of your load. If you added any accessories or equipment after your vehicle left the factory, remember to subtract the weight of these things from the payload. Your dealer can help you with this.

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Trailering Package If your vehicle comes with the Trailering Package, there is also a load rating which includes the weight of the vehicle and the trailer it tows. This rating is called the Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). When you weigh your trailer, be sure to include the weight of everything you put in it. And, remember to figure the weight of the people inside as part of your load. Your dealer can help you determine your GCWR.

Add-on Equipment I you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many W1. people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment.

NOTICE: Your warranty doesn’t cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

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Tires We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. These tires are warranted by the tire manufacturers and their warranties are delivered with every new vehicle. If your spare tire is a different brand than your road tires, you will have a tire warranty folder from each of these manufacturers.

Inflation - Tire Pressure The Certificatioflire label which is on the driver’s door lock pillar, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than a mile.

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NOTICE: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation) you can get:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy.

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:

Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires - which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated. If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation To make your tires last longer, have them inspected and rotated at the mileages recommended in the Maintenance Schedule. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index.

FRT

FRT

Use this rotation pattern.

If your vehicle has front tires with different load ratings or tread designs (such as all season vs. on/off road) than the rear tires, don’t rotate your tires front to rear. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressure as shown on the CertificationEire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

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When lt’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 2/32 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if

0 You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.

You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

0 The tire has a bump, bulge or split.

The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the CertificatiodTire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by a “MS” (for mud and snow).

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If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest are: A, B, and C. They represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight-ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.

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Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. These grades are molded on the sidewalls of passenger car tires. While the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General Motors vehicles may vary with respect to these grades, all such tires meet General Motors performance standards and have been approved for use on General Motors vehicles. All passenger type (P Metric) tires must conform to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels aligned again. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

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If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your GM model.

NOTICE: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, headlight aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

Used Replacement Wheels

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Tire Chains

NOTICE: If your vehicle has P235/75R15 size tires, don’t use tire chains; they can damage your vehicle. If you have other size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the drive axle tires (four-wheel-drive vehicles can use chains on both axles) and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Appearance Care

Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside.

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Never use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline 0 Benzene Naphtha

0 Carbon Tetrachloride

Acetone

Paint Thinner

0 Turpentine 0 Lacquer Thinner 0 Nail Polish Remover

They can all be hazardous - som damage your vehicle, too. Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:

e more th . a n 0th .ers - and they can all

Alcohol Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth. Your GM dealer has two GM cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. Do not use them on vinyl or leather. Here are some cleaning tips:

Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area only. If you use them, don’t saturate the stained area. If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.

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Using Foam-Type Cleaner on Fabric

Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following the directions on the container label. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate the material. Don’t rub it roughly. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove the suds.

0 Rinse the section with a clean, wet sponge. 0 Wipe off what’s left with a slightly damp paper towel or cloth. 0 Then dry it immediately with a blow dryer or a heat lamp.

NOTICE: Be careful with a hair dryer or heat lamp. You could scorch the fabric.

0 Wipe with a clean cloth. Using Solvent-Type Cleaner on Fabric First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all. Some spots and stains will clean off better with just water and mild soap. If you need to use a solvent:

Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with a clean, dull knife or scraper. Use very little cleaner, light pressure and clean cloths (preferably cheesecloth). Cleaning should start at the outside of the stain, “feathering” toward the center. Keep changing to a clean section of the cloth. When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately dry the area with an air hose, hair dryer, or heat lamp to help prevent a cleaning ring. (See the previous NOTICE.)

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Special Cleaning Problems

Greasy or Oily Stains Such as grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe polish, coffee with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt.

Carefully scrape off excess stain. Follow the solvent-type instructions described earlier.

0 Sh% polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain if left on a vehicle seat fabric. They should be removed as soon as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner will dissolve them and may cause them to spread.

Non-Greasy Stains Such as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit, urine and blood.

Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water. If a stain remains, follow the foam-type instructions described earlier. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a waterhaking soda solution: I teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water. If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.

Combination Stains Such as candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains.

0 Carefully scrape off excess stain, then clean with cool water and allow

to dry.

0 If a stain remains, clean it with solvent-type cleaner. Cleaning Viny/ Use warm water and a clean cloth.

Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do it more than once.

0 Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them

off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a solvent-type vinyl cleaner.

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Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap. 0 For stubborn stains, use a mild solution of 10% isopropyl alcohol

(rubbing alcohol) and 90% water. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. Soiled leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into finish, it can harm the leather.

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

Glass Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner (GM Part No. 1050427) or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films. Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.

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Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon-Ami Powder@ (GM Part No. 105001 1). The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Wiper blades should be checked on a regular basis and replaced when worn. Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability.

Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Use liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soaps. Don’t use cleaning agents that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or a 100% cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure vehicle washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use GM Chrome Polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary.

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Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts. Aluminum Wheels Aluminum wheels have a protective coating similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, chrome polish, abrasive cleaners or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage this coating. After rinsing thoroughly, a wax may be applied.

I NOTICE:

If you have aluminum wheels, don’t use an automatic vehicle wash that has hard silicon carbide cleaning brushes. These brushes can take off the protective coating.

White Side wa// Tires Your GM dealer has a GM White Sidewall Tire Cleaner. You can use a stiff brush with the cleaner. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids & Lubricants” in the Index.) Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Foreign Material Calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, and other foreign matter can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Use cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.

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Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan, and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody vehicle washing system can do this for you. Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever comes first.

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PART

NUMBER 1050172

SIZE

DESCRIPTION

USAGE

16 oz. (0.473L) Tar and Road Oil

Remover

1050173

16 oz. (0.4731) Chrome Cleaner and Polish

1050174

1050214

16 oz. (0.473L) White Sidewall

Tire Cleaner 32 oz. (0.946L) Vinyl Leather

Cleaner

1050244

16 oz. (0.473L) Fabric Cleaner

1050427

23 oz. (0.680L) Glass Cleaner

1050429

6 lbs. (2.72 kg) Multi-Purpose

Powder Cleaner

Removes old waxes, polishes, tar and road oil Removes rust and corrosion on chrome and stainless steel Cleans white and black tires Spot and stain removal on leather or vinyl Spot and stain removal on cloth and fabric Glass cleaning and spot cleaning on vinyls Cleans vinyl and cloth on door trim, seats, and carpet-also tires and mats

1050729

105 1055 105 1398

1052870 1050201

8 02. (0.237L) Vinyl Top Cleaner Cleaning tops Vinyl top dressing Spot and stain removal on cloth and fabric

16 oz. (0.473L) Preservatone 8 oz. (0.237L) Spot Lifter

of vinyl

16 oz. (0.473L) Wash-Wax (conc.) Exterior wash 16 oz. (0.473L) Magic Mirror Cleaner-Polish and

Exterior cleaner

polish

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Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.

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Engine Identification The eighth character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help rou identify your engine, specifications, and replace-?nt parts.

o n

6-59

Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box.

1 Service Parts Identification

VEHICLE <

IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

00000 0000000000000oO00 ARL AD2 A65 B6Y B9A B9K C60 D1B D36 E52 E6E E92 FLT GU1 JM7 K19 K64 LC3 MX1 M31 NA5 NB1 QMXVK3 VC2 VYI VY4 V73 Y19 ZJ7 6BJ 62L 62U 67D 671 679

7BJ 8HJ 9HJ

MODEL DESIGNATION

OPTlON CONTENT

WHEELBASE

’ OOOOO

DO NOT REMOVE

PAINTTECHNOLOGY

ORDER NUMBER

EXTERIORCOLORS

It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:

0 your VIN,

the model designation, 0 paint information, and 0 a list of all production options and special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle. Add-on Lxtrical Equipment

NOTICE: Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. ,Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers, and fusible thermal links in the wiring itself. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems.

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Headlights The headlight wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in the light switch. An electrical overload will cause the lights to go on and off. If this happens, have your headlight wiring checked right away. Windshield Wipers The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers in the fuse panel protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed.

Trailer Wiring Harness The optional seven-wire trailer wiring harness is protected by an in-line fuse in the battery feed wire. This fuse is near the junction block. See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Features & Controls section. Fuse Block

The fuse block is in the instrument panel on the driver’s side. Remove the cover with a screwdriver and then you can remove fuses with a fuse extractor.

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Be sure to use the correct fuse.

use

the radio or cigarette lighter-and

If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can “borrow” one of the correct value. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without-like its fuse, if it is of the value you need. Replace it as soon as you can. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in this section. Capacities and Specification Charts Replacement Parts Replacement part numbers listed in this section are based on the latest information available at the time of printing, and are subject to change. If a part listed in this manual is not the same as the part used in your vehicle when it was built, or if you have any questions, please contact your GM truck dealer. Engine Identification

4.3L V6 CPI** U.S. L.D.

Engine Description Type VIN Code Fuel System Produced By Emissions

*Throttle Body Fuel Injection **Central Port Fuel Injection

4.3L V6

TBP U.S. L.D.

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Wheel Nut Torque DESCRIPTION

Base or Optional Wheel

Cooling System Capacity

ENGINE

VIN CODE

4.3L 4.3L

TORQUE

95 ft. lbs. (130 Nom)

QUANTITY*

12.1 Quarts (1 1.5 Liters) 12.1 Quarts (1 1.5 Liters)

*All quantities are approximate. After refill, the level MUST be checked.

Crankcase Capacity ENGINE

VIN CODE

QUANTITY* Without Filter

4.3L 4.3L

4 Quarts (3.8 Liters) 4 Quarts (3.8 Liters)

QUANTITY* With Filter 4.5 Quarts (4.3 Liters) 4.5 Quarts (4.3 Liters)

*All quantities are approximate. After refill, the level MUST be checked. Do not overfill. Fuel Tank Capacity

TYPE

Standard Tank

QUANTITY*

20 Gallons (76 Liters)

*All quantities are approximate. Lamp and Bulb Data EXTERIOR LAMPS Headlamps (Halogen) Backup Lamp License Lamp Tail and Stop Lamps Marker Lamp (Front) Marker Lamp (Rear) Parking and Signal Lamp CHMSL Assembly

QUANTITY

TRADE NO.

H6054 1156 67 2057 194 194 2057

1 Unit

See GM Dealer

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INTERIOR LAMPS Ash Tray Lamp Courtesy Lamp Dome Lamp Dome Lamp (Rear) Four-wheel Drive Indicator Heater & AC Control Instrument Panel Compartment Lamp Overhead Console Dome Lamp (Front) Reading Lamps Rearview Mirror Lamps Sunshade Vanity Mirror Lamps Underhood Lamp

161 1003 21 1-2 561 161 37 1003

211-2 194 2 12-2 7065 93

PC74

PC 194

Instrument Cluster Lamps NOTE: A PC part number indicates that the bulb and base are one assembly and must be replaced as such. Anti-lock Brake Warning Indicator? (Utility Models) Anti-lock Brake Warning Indicator$ (Utility Models) Brake System Warning Indicator? Brake System Warning Indicator$ Check Gages Indicator? Daytime Running Lights Indicator’f Daytime Running Lights Indicator$ Charging System Indicator? High Beam Indicator? High Beam Indicator$ Instrument Cluster Illumination? Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Service Engine Soon)?

PC74 PC 194 PC74 PC74 PC 194 PC74 PC74 PC 194 PC168 PC74

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INTERIOR LAMPS (continued) Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Service Engine Soon)$ Seat Belt Indicator?, $ Shift Indicator (PRNDL)$ Tachometer Warning Band$ Turn Signal Indicator? Upshift Indicator? Upshift Indicator$

?With Standard Cluster $With Digital Cluster