2007 Chevrolet AVEO Owners Manual

Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 332
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 333
Wheel Replacement .................................. 333
Tire Chains ............................................... 335
If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 335
Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 336
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 337
Removing the Flat Tire and

Installing the Spare Tire ......................... 339
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...... 344
Compact Spare Tire .................................. 344

Appearance Care ........................................ 345
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 345
Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 346
Leather ...................................................... 347
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and

Other Plastic Surfaces ........................... 348
Care of Safety Belts .................................. 348
Weatherstrips ............................................ 348
Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 349
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 349
Finish Care ............................................... 349
Windshield and Wiper Blades .................... 350
Aluminum Wheels ...................................... 350
Tires ......................................................... 351
Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 351
Finish Damage .......................................... 352
Underbody Maintenance ............................ 352
Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 352
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ............ 353

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Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Vehicle Identification .................................. 354
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ........... 354
Service Parts Identification Label ............... 354
Electrical System ........................................ 355
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 355
Headlamp Wiring ....................................... 355
Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 355

Power Windows and Other Power Options ... 356
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....................... 356
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..................... 357
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ............... 361
Capacities and Specifications .................... 368
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts ..... 369
Engine Drive Belt Routing ......................... 370

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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.

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California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.

Doing Your Own Service Work

{CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,

and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 421.

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Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 267 for additional information.

Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 82. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Part E: Maintenance Record on page 398.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep your engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, GM recommends the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.

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California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 168 for sedans or Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 181 for hatchbacks. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems.

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Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT.

General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.

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Filling the Tank

{CAUTION:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.

To open the fuel filler door, pull up on the release lever with this symbol on it. It is located on the floor on the outboard side of the driver’s seat.

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To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right.

{CAUTION:

If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Hatchback shown. Sedan similar

The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

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Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 349. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 181.

{CAUTION:

If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to

Notice: get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 181.

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Filling a Portable Fuel Container

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping

gasoline.

{CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved

containers.

(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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Checking Things Under the Hood

{CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

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Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the hood

release handle inside the vehicle. It is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

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2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up on the secondary hood release lever, located under the front center of the hood.

3. Lift the hood and release the hood prop from its

retainer located on the underside of the hood.

4. Securely place the hood prop into the slot on

the inner fender.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the inner fender and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood 12 inches (30 cm) above the vehicle and release it so it fully latches. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood, here is what you will see:

Automatic shown, Manual similar

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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air

Cleaner/Filter on page 281.

B. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine

Oil” under Engine Oil on page 277.

C. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 277.

D. Brake/Clutch Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”

under Brakes on page 299 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 286.

E. Automatic Transaxle Dipstick. See Automatic

Transaxle Fluid on page 283.

F. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling

System on page 292.

G. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine

Compartment Fuse Block on page 361.

H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power

Steering Fluid on page 297.

I. Battery. See Battery on page 303. J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 298.

Engine Oil

If the oil pressure light comes on, it means you need to check the engine oil level right away.

The oil pressure light is on the instrument panel cluster for sedans. See Oil Pressure Light on page 185. For hatchbacks, the oil pressure light is on the Secondary Information Center (SIC). See Oil Pressure Light on page 185. You should check the engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

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Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276
for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down and check the level.

When to Add Engine Oil

If the oil is below the lower hole at the tip of the dipstick (B), you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 368. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper hole (A) that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276
for the location of the engine oil fill cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range, between the holes on the dipstick. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use

These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Look for two things: • GM6094M

Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. • SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.

You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.

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• You frequently use a carrier on top of your

vehicle.

• The vehicle is used for delivery service,

police, taxi, or other commercial application. Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months, whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months, whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower.

If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: • Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is

particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

• Most trips include extensive idling, such as

frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic.

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What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

The engine air cleaner/filter is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for more information on location.

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{CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire

Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the engine air cleaner/filter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) and replace it every 30,000 miles (50 000 km). If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the engine air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the filter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws and lift off the cover. 2. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 3. Put the cover back on tightly and tighten

the screws.

See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 374 for replacement intervals.

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Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Check your automatic transaxle fluid level at least twice a year. Add fluid if needed. See At Least Twice a Year on page 389. How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: • When outside temperatures are above

90°F (32°C).

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

• At high speed for quite a while. • To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 158°F to 176°F (70°C to 80°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.

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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift

lever in PARK (P).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three to

five minutes.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The automatic transaxle dipstick is located toward the front of the engine compartment, near the power steering fluid reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for more information on location. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean

rag or paper towel.

2. Push the dipstick back in all the way, wait

three seconds and then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, fluid should

be between MIN and MAX mark of the hot area of the dipstick.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range,

push the dipstick back in all the way.

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How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the area between the two dimples in the hot range on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.

Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section.

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push

the dipstick back in all the way.

Manual Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396
for the proper fluid to use.

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Hydraulic Clutch There is one reservoir for both the brake and the hydraulic clutch fluid. See Brakes on page 299
for more information. The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic fluid. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. When to Check and What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 389 and Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396.

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How to Check and Add Fluid

To check the fluid level, look on the side of the reservoir. If the fluid reaches the MAX (A) mark on the reservoir, the fluid level is correct. If the fluid does not reach the MIN (B) mark on the reservoir, then fluid needs to be added. The reservoir is located near the back of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for more information on location.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 290.

A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: • Give freezing protection down to

−34°F (−37°C).

• Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). • Protect against rust and corrosion. • Help keep the proper engine temperature. • Let the warning lights and gages work as they

should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

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If you use an improper coolant

Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396 for more information.

If you use extra inhibitors and/or

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

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Checking Coolant

The engine coolant surge tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

To check the engine coolant, the vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the Maximum (A) and Minimum (B) marks on the coolant surge tank. The level rises at engine operation temperature and drops again when the engine cools down.

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Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.

If the pressure cap is not tightly

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 167.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. If the coolant surge tank is empty, a special fill procedure is necessary. See Engine Overheating on page 290 for instructions on “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank.”

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

If your engine catches fire because

Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: • Climb a long hill on a hot day. • Stop after high-speed driving. • Idle for long periods in traffic. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in

NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest

fan speed and open the windows as necessary.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally.

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If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood, but to get service help right away.

Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan

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{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. To check the engine coolant, the vehicle should be parked on a level surface. Make sure that the air conditioning is turned off. The coolant level should be between the Minimum and Maximum marks on the coolant surge tank when the engine is cool. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not between the Minimum and Maximum marks, add a 50/50
mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 287 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

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{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and

Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.

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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly,

and remove it.

3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper

mixture to the Maximum mark on the coolant surge tank. Wait about five minutes, then check to see if the level is below the mark. If the level is below the Maximum mark, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the mark. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the Maximum mark for at least five minutes.

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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off,

start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the Maximum mark, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the mark.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. See your dealer, if necessary.

Power Steering Fluid When to Check Power Steering Fluid The power steering fluid reservoir is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for reservoir location. It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

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How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down.

The level should be between the MIN (B) and MAX (A) marks on the reservoir. If the level drops below the MIN (B) mark, add power steering fluid. Do not overfill the reservoir and remember to replace the cap tightly when you are finished and clean up any spilled fluid.

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What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276
for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer

fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.

(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in

your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your vehicle has one reservoir for both the brake and clutch hydraulic systems. It is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276
for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake or clutch system. If it is, you should have your brake/clutch system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 164.

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Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 349.

(cid:127)

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and may have rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.

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Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 395.

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for battery location.

Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 304 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

304

Ignoring these steps could result in

Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a

12-volt battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a

Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper

cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles.

Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find

the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. Your vehicle’s positive (+) terminal is located under a red tethered cap on the battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for more information on location. Flip the cap up to access the positive (+) terminal.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

305

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

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Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect

it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other

end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move.

The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery

and run the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead

battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the positive (+) terminal cap to its

original position.

Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or

Remote Negative (–) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and

Remote Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

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Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if it is difficult to see the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommend that you take the vehicle to your dealer for service. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 317. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

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Headlamps (Hatchback) To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on

page 274 for more information.

2. Remove the five screws from top of the

radiator grille.

3. Remove the radiator grille.

5. Remove the headlamp assembly. 6. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from

the rear of the bulb.

7. Remove the headlamp cap.

4. Remove the three bolts from the headlamp

assembly.

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8. Release the spring that retains the bulb by

loosing the screw.

9. Remove the old bulb. 10. Install the new bulb. 11. Install the bulb retaining spring. 12. Reverse Steps 1 through 8 to install the

headlamp assembly.

Headlamps (Sedan) To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on

page 274 for more information.

2. Remove the three bolts from the headlamp

assembly.

3. Remove the headlamp assembly. 4. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from

the rear of the bulb.

5. Remove the headlamp cap.

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Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps (Hatchback) To replace a front turn signal or parking lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the radiator grille and the headlamp

assembly. See Steps 2 through 5 under Headlamps (Hatchback) on page 310 or Headlamps (Sedan) on page 311 for instructions on how to remove the headlamp assembly.

6. Release the spring that retains the bulb. 7. Remove the old bulb. 8. Install the new bulb. 9. Install the bulb retaining spring. 10. Reverse Steps 1 through 6 to install the

headlamp assembly.

312

2. Turn the front turn signal bulb socket

counterclockwise.

3. Pull the front turn signal bulb socket out of the

lamp housing.

4. Press the bulb inward and turn it

counterclockwise to remove it from the bulb socket.

5. Install the new bulb into the socket by pressing it in and turning it clockwise.

6. Install the socket into the lamp housing by

turning it clockwise.

7. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to install the

assembly.

Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps (Sedan) To replace a front turn signal or parking lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on

page 274 for more information.

2. Remove the headlamp assembly. See Steps 2

through 4 under Headlamps (Hatchback) on page 310 or Headlamps (Sedan) on page 311
for instructions on how to remove the headlamp assembly.

3. Turn the front turn signal bulb socket

counterclockwise.

4. Pull the front turn signal bulb socket out of the

lamp housing.

5. Press the bulb inward and turn it

counterclockwise to remove it from the bulb socket.

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6. Install the new bulb into the socket by pressing it in and turning it clockwise.

7. Install the socket into the lamp housing by

turning it clockwise.

8. Reverse Steps 1 through 2 under Headlamps

(Hatchback) on page 310 or Headlamps (Sedan) on page 311 to install the assembly.

Turn Signal Lamps (Side) To replace a side turn signal bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on

page 274 for more information.

2. See Steps 2 through 5 under Headlamps (Hatchback) on page 310 or Headlamps (Sedan) on page 311 to access the side turn signal lamps.

3. Remove the side turn signal lamp assembly

by pulling it forward.

4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise.

314

5. Remove the bulb from the lamp housing by

pulling the bulb straight out of the socket.

6. Install the new bulb into the bulb socket by

pushing it in and rotating the bulb socket clockwise.

7. Push the side turn signal lamp assembly back

into its original position.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) (Sedan) To replace a CHMSL bulb on the hatchback, contact your dealer. To replace a CHMSL bulb on the sedan do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 98 for

more information.

2. Remove the two screws and the lamp

housing. Disconnect the wiring harness connector before removing the lamp housing.

3. Remove the five screws and the reflector

assembly.

4. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of

the bulb holder.

5. Install the new bulb. 6. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall.

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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To replace a taillamp, turn signal lamp, stoplamp, or back-up bulb, do the following: 1. Open the trunk or liftgate. See Trunk on

page 98 or Liftgate (Hatchback) on page 100
for more information.

Sedan

2. Remove the two screws and the lamp

assembly.

3. Remove the bulb socket by turning it

counterclockwise.

4. Remove the bulb from the socket by pressing

the bulb and turning it counterclockwise.

5. Install the appropriate bulb into the socket. 6. Replace the bulb socket into the lamp

housing. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to secure.

7. Reverse Step 2 to reinstall the lamp housing.

Hatchback

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License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs, do the following:

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Back-Up

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)

Headlamps

Front Parking/Turn Signal (Hatchback)

Front Parking/Turn Signal (Sedan)

Side Turn Signal (Hatchback)

Side Turn Signal (Sedan)

Stoplamp/Taillamps

Turn Signal Lamps

94535571

94535587

94535548

94535574

94535574

94535587

94535587

94535574

94535572

1. Remove the two screws holding each of the

license plate lamps.

2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward

through the opening.

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.

3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and

pull the bulb straight out of the socket.

4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the

license plate lamp.

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Here is how to remove the Shepherd’s Hook type:

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” under Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 389 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways.

1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the

windshield.

2. Press the retaining clip (A) and pull the wiper

blade off the arm.

3. Install a new blade by reversing

Steps 1 and 2.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same

danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 326.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.

319

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger car tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger Car Tire Example

320

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(D) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(E) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 332.

(F) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 326 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 248.

Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. See Compact Spare Tire on page 344 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 335.

321

(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. See Compact Spare Tire on page 344 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 248.

(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 326.

(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.

322

Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger car tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 70, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70% as high as it is wide.

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and the speed rating of a tire. The load range represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/ transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 326.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

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DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

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Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 326 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 248.

Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 329.

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 332.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 248.

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Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 344.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 329
and Wheel Replacement on page 333 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 374.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire