2009 Chevrolet Avalanche Owners Manual

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Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear. Brake Wear This vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal ﬁrmly. { CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. 5-38 Vehicle Storage { CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-40 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This helps keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed. Battery This vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. 5-39 Jump Starting If the vehicle’s battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. { CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. 5-40 Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put the automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in Neutral before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear, not in Neutral. If you leave the radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all the lamps that are not needed. This avoids sparks and helps save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. If the vehicle has a remote positive (+) terminal, it is located under a red plastic cover at the positive battery post. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover. The remote negative (-) terminal is a stud located on the right front of the engine, where the negative battery cable attaches. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on the location of the remote positive (+) and remote negative (-) terminals. 5-41 { CAUTION: CAUTION: (Continued) An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. CAUTION: (Continued) Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. { CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5-42 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the remote negative (−) terminal, on the vehicle with the dead battery. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-43 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the bad battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover, if the vehicle has one, to its original position. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-44 Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. All axle assemblies are ﬁlled by volume of ﬂuid during production. They are not ﬁlled to reach a certain level. When checking the ﬂuid level on any axle, variations in the readings can be caused by factory ﬁll differences between the minimum and the maximum ﬂuid volume. Also, if a vehicle has just been driven before checking the ﬂuid level, it may appear lower than normal because ﬂuid has traveled out along the axle tubes and has not drained back to the sump area. Therefore, a reading taken ﬁve minutes after the vehicle has been driven will appear to have a lower ﬂuid level than a vehicle that has been stationary for an hour or two. Remember that the rear axle assembly must be supported to get a true reading. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. For 5.3L engines, the proper level is from 0.04 inch to 0.75 inch (1.0 mm to 19.0 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough ﬂuid to reach the proper level. For 6.0L engines, the proper level is from 0.6 inch to 1.6 inches (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough ﬂuid to reach the proper level. 5-45 (cid:129) (cid:129) What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak, or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. 5-46 How to Check Lubricant Active Transfer Case A. Fill Plug B. Drain Plug To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁll plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁll plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. When to Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to change the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. A: Fill Plug B: Drain Plug (cid:129) When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level from 0 (0 mm) to 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) below the ﬁller plug hole. (cid:129) When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. 5-47 What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim of the headlamps have been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in a crash, the aim of the headlamps can be affected and adjustment can be necessary. If oncoming vehicles ﬂash their high beams at you, this can mean the vertical aim of your headlamps needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be adjusted. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described. The vehicle should: (cid:129) Be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall. (cid:129) Have all four tires on a level surface which is level all the way to the wall. (cid:129) Be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall. (cid:129) Not have any snow, ice, or mud on it. (cid:129) Be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed. (cid:129) Be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver seat. (cid:129) Have tires properly inﬂated. (cid:129) Have the spare tire is in its proper location in the vehicle. 5-48 Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. To adjust the vertical aim: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-13 for more information. 2. Locate the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam headlamp. 3. Record the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low-beam headlamp. 4. At a wall measure from the ground upward (A) to the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it. 5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall or ﬂat surface the width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4. Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the ﬂat surface. 5-49 9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim. 10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite headlamp. 7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a E8 Torx® socket. 8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam. 5-50 Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-53. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer. Halogen Bulbs { CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps A. Stoplamp/Turn Signal/Taillamp B. Back-up Lamp C. Stoplamp/Turn Signal/Taillamp D. Sidemarker Lamp 5-51 To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the tailgate. See Tailgate on page 2-23 for more information. 2. Remove the two screws from the taillamp assembly. 4. Press the release tab, if the bulb socket has one, and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp assembly. 5. Pull the old bulb straight out from the bulb socket. 6. Press a new bulb into the bulb socket and insert the bulb socket into the taillamp assembly. Turn the bulb socket clockwise into the taillamp assembly until it clicks. 7. Reinstall the taillamp assembly making sure to line up the pins with the vehicle. 3. Pull the taillamp assembly rearward until you disengage the outer pins on the taillamp assembly from the vehicle. 5-52 License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Reach under the rear bumper for the bulb socket. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Back-up Lamp License Plate Lamp Rear Turn Signal Lamp, Taillamp, and Stoplamp Sidemarker Lamp 7441 168 3057 194 For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the bulb socket out of the connector. 3. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket, keeping the bulb straight as you pull it out. 4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the bulb socket. 5-53 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away from the windshield. 2. Squeeze the grooved areas on each side of the blade, and rotate the blade assembly away from the arm connector. 5-54 3. Install the new blade onto the arm connector and make sure the grooved areas are fully set in the locked position. For the proper type and size, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer. { CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:129) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much ﬂexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:129) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63. (cid:129) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them. 20-Inch Tires If your vehicle has the optional 20-inch P275/55R20 size tires, they are classiﬁed as touring tires and are designed for on road use. The low-proﬁle, wide tread design is not recommended for off-road driving. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-12, for additional information. 5-55 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire 5-56 (A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-74. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire (A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. 5-57 (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual conﬁguration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. (D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (E) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. 5-58 Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the ﬁrst two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. 5-59 (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. 5-60 GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. 5-61 UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-74. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-70. 5-62 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much ﬂexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road hazards A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the pressure of the spare tire. See Spare Tire on page 5-99 for additional information. 5-63 How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they are underinﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inﬂated to the inﬂation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inﬂation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inﬂate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inﬂation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. 5-64 Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inﬂation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will ﬂash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-66 for additional information. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation. The TPMS operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device. Changes or modiﬁcations to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment. 5-65 Tire Pressure Monitor Operation This vehicle may have a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). The TPMS is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster. At the same time a message to check the pressure in a speciﬁc tire appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inﬂated to the correct inﬂation pressure. Using the DIC, tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays (With DIC Buttons) on 5-66 page 3-46 or DIC Operation and Displays (Without DIC Buttons) on page 3-52 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-58. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is ﬁrst started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inﬂated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63. Your vehicle’s TPMS can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-69 and Tires on page 5-55. Notice: Liquid tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. Sensor damage caused by using a tire sealant is not covered by your warranty. Do not use liquid tire sealants. TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light ﬂashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: (cid:129) One of the road tires has been replaced with the spare tire. The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor. The TPMS sensor matching process was started but not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section. (cid:129) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/retailer for service. (cid:129) Replacement tires or wheels do not match your vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-71. (cid:129) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction. If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on. 5-67 (cid:129) TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identiﬁcation code. Any time you rotate your vehicle’s tires or replace one or more of the TPMS sensors, the identiﬁcation codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. If increasing the tire’s air pressure, do not exceed the maximum inﬂation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease air-pressure out of a tire you can use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key. You have two minutes to match the ﬁrst tire/wheel position, and ﬁve minutes overall to match all four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer than two minutes, to match the ﬁrst tire and wheel, or more than ﬁve minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions the matching process stops and you need to start over. The TPMS sensor matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the engine off. 3. Press the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter’s lock and unlock buttons at the same time for approximately ﬁve seconds. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode and TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays on the DIC screen. 4. Start with the driver side front tire. 5. Remove the valve cap from the valve cap stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for ﬁve seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds to sound, conﬁrms that the sensor identiﬁcation code has been matched to this tire and wheel position. 6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5. 7. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5. 5-68 8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5. The horn sounds two times to indicate the sensor identiﬁcation code has been matched to the driver side rear tire, and the TPMS sensor matching process is no longer active. The TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message on the DIC display screen goes off. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. 10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label. 11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems. Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect your vehicle’s tires, including the spare tire, for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-70 for more information. Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that your vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new. Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-70 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-76. When rotating your vehicle’s tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the spare tire in the tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34. Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-66. 5-69 When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions, inﬂuence when you need new tires. One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-116. { CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-80. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, tighten the cable. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-95. 5-70 You need new tires if any of the following statements are true: (cid:129) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. (cid:129) You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading conditions, and inﬂation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information. Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched speciﬁc tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical speciﬁcations that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall near the tire size. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-56 for additional information. 5-71 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of your vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-69 for information on proper tire rotation. { CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle might not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types could also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size, brand, and type tires on all wheels. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) Your vehicle may have a different size spare than the road tires (those originally installed on your vehicle). When new, your vehicle included a spare tire and wheel assembly with a similar overall diameter as your vehicle’s road tires and wheels, so it is all right to drive on it. Because this spare was developed for use on your vehicle, it will not affect vehicle handling. { CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on the vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on the vehicle. 5-72 If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-64. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle. Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this could affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as anti-lock brakes, rollover airbags, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected. { CAUTION: If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM speciﬁc wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certiﬁed technician. See Buying New Tires on page 5-71 and Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for additional information. 5-73 Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. 5-74 Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. { WARNING: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. { WARNING: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. 5-75 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, or Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, and TPMS sensors for your vehicle. 5-76 Used Replacement Wheels { CAUTION: Putting a used wheel on the vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. { CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-80 for more information. 5-77 If your vehicle has P265/70R17 size tires, Notice: use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your vehicle’s tires. Install them on the rear tires only. Do not use chains on the front tires. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle. Tire Chains { CAUTION: If your vehicle has P265/65R18 or P275/55R20 size tires, do not use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your vehicle’s wheels. If you do ﬁnd traction devices that will ﬁt, install them on the rear tires. 5-78 If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire creates a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. { CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for changing a ﬂat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, only use it for changing a ﬂat tire. If a tire goes ﬂat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a ﬂat tire safely. 5-79 Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on the hazard warning ﬂashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6. { CAUTION: Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put the shift lever in P (Park). CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) 3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in Neutral. 4. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised. 5. Do not allow passengers to remain in the vehicle. 6. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle. 5-80 When the vehicle has a ﬂat tire (B), use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks (A). Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jack and the wheel blocks are located under a cover near the passenger side rear seat. A. Wheel Block B. Flat Tire The following information explains how to use the jack and change a tire. Rear Seat (Passenger Side) Jack Cover 1. Remove the jack cover by turning the two wing nuts one-quarter turn counterclockwise and pulling the jack cover off. 5-81 3. Remove the wheel blocks (A) attached to the jack (E) by turning the wing nut (C) counterclockwise. Place the wheel blocks where needed as indicated in previously in this section. The tools for changing a ﬂat tire are located in the passenger’s side top-box storage unit. To remove the tools, do the following: 1. Open the top door on the passenger’s side top-box storage unit. Use the ignition/door key to unlock it if it is locked. See Top-Box Storage on page 2-92 for more information. 2. Remove the black pouch from the storage box. You now have all of the tools you will need to lower the spare tire and change a ﬂat. A. Wheel Blocks B. Jack Knob C. Wing Nut D. Retaining Hook E. Jack F. Mounting Bracket 2. Release the jack (E) from the mounting bracket (F) by turning the jack knob (B) on the jack counterclockwise to release the jack from the mounting bracket. 5-82 To access the spare tire: 1. Open the hoist shaft access cover on the bumper to access the spare tire lock (J). 2. To remove the spare tire lock, insert the ignition key, turn it clockwise and pull it straight out. A. Spare Tire (Valve Stem Pointed Down) B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire/Wheel Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of Extension Tool G. Hoist Shaft Access Hole H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle Extension(s) J. Spare Tire Lock 3. Assemble the two jack handle extensions (I) and wheel wrench (H) as shown. 5-83 4. Insert the open end of the extension (F) through the hole in the rear bumper (G) (hoist shaft access hole). 6. Use the wheel wrench hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you, to assist in reaching the spare tire. Be sure the hoist end (F) of the extension connects to the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire. Do not use the chiseled end of the wheel wrench. 5. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower. See Secondary Latch System on page 5-92 for more information. 5-84 7. Tilt the tire with slack in the cable to access the tire/wheel retainer (D). Separate the retainer from the guide pin by sliding the retainer up the pin while pressing down on the latch. When the retainer is separated from the guide pin, tilt the retainer and pull it through the center of the wheel along with the cable and guide pin. 8. Put the spare tire near the ﬂat tire. 5-85 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire Use the following pictures and instructions to remove the ﬂat tire and raise the vehicle. 2. If the vehicle has a center cap, place the chiseled end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry the cap out. If the vehicle has a bolt-on hub cap, loosen the plastic nut caps by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. The plastic nut caps will be retained in the hub cap after it is removed from the wheel. The tools needed are the jack (A), the wheel blocks (B), the jack handle (C), the jack handle extensions (D), and the wheel wrench (E). 1. Do a safety check before proceeding. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-80 for more information. 5-86 3. Use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Do not remove the wheel nuts yet. { CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. { CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. 4. Position the jack under the vehicle as shown. 5-87 Jacking Locations (Overall View) A. Front Position B. Rear Position Front Position Rear Position Front Tire Flat: If the ﬂat tire is on a front tire of the vehicle, you will need to use the jack handle and only one jack handle extension. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extension. Attach the jack handle to the jack (A). Position the jack on the frame behind the ﬂat tire near the front body mount as shown. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground. Rear Tire Flat: If the ﬂat tire is on a rear tire of the vehicle, you will need to use the jack handle and both jack handle extensions. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extensions. Attach the jack handle to the jack. Use the jacking pad provided on the rear axle. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground. 5-88 6. Take off the ﬂat tire. 5. Remove all the wheel nuts. { CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-80. 7. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces, and spare wheel. 5-89 8. Install the spare tire. { CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash. 9. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel after mounting the spare tire. 10. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the wheel wrench to tighten the wheel nuts until the wheel is held against the hub. 11. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Lower the jack completely. { CAUTION: Incorrect or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-116 for wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-116 for the wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. 5-90 12. Tighten the nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence as shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise. When you reinstall the full-size wheel and tire, you must also reinstall the either the center cap or the bolt-on hub cap, depending on what your vehicle has. If you are reinstalling a center cap, line up the tab on the center cap with the slot on the wheel. The cap only goes in one way. Place the cap on the wheel and press until it snaps into place. If you are reinstalling bolt-on hub caps, line up the plastic nut caps with the wheel nuts and tighten them clockwise by hand to get them started. Continue tightening with the wheel wrench until snug. 5-91 (cid:129) (cid:129) Secondary Latch System Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle. For the secondary latch to work, the spare must be installed with the valve stem pointing down. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-95. { CAUTION: Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed next. To release the spare tire from the secondary latch: 1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable end is visible. If the cable is not visible proceed to Step 6. 2. If it is visible, ﬁrst try to tighten the cable by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable. 3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench counterclockwise three or four turns. 4. Repeat this procedure at least two times. If the spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with Step 5 of Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-81. 5-92 5. If the spare does not lower, turn the wrench counterclockwise until approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed. 6. Stand the wheel blocks on their shortest ends, with the backs facing each other. 7. Place the bottom edge of the jack (A) on the wheel blocks (B), separating them so that the jack is balanced securely. 8. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheel wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel blocks) under the vehicle toward the front of the rear bumper. 5-93 10. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it lifts the end ﬁtting. 11. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops moving upward and is held ﬁrmly in place. The secondary latch has released and the spare tire is balancing on the jack. 12. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable. { CAUTION: Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from under the spare. 9. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the spare tire. 5-94 13. Disconnect the jack handle from the jack and carefully remove the jack. Use one hand to push against the spare while ﬁrmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire with the other hand. If the spare tire is hanging from the cable, insert the hoist end of extension, and wheel wrench into the hoist shaft hole in the bumper and turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare the rest of the way. 14. Turn the wheel wrench in the hoist shaft hole in the bumper clockwise to raise the cable back up if the cable is hanging under the vehicle. Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or ﬂat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been inspected and/or replaced. To continue changing the ﬂat tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 5-86. Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools { CAUTION: Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place. Notice: Storing an aluminum wheel with a ﬂat tire under your vehicle for an extended period of time or with the valve stem pointing up can damage the wheel. Always stow the wheel with the valve stem pointing down and have the wheel/tire repaired as soon as possible. Store the tire under the rear of the vehicle in the spare tire carrier. 5-95 1. Put the tire (A) on the ground at the rear of the vehicle with the valve stem pointed down, and to the rear. A. Spare Tire/Flat Tire F. Hoist End of (Valve Stem Pointed Down) B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire/Wheel Retainer E. Hoist Shaft Extension Tool G. Hoist Shaft Access Hole H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle Extension(s) J. Spare Tire Lock 5-96 2. Tilt the tire. Separate the tire/wheel retainer (D) from the guide pin. Pull the pin through the center of the wheel. Tilt the retainer down through the center wheel opening. 3. Assemble the two jack handle extensions (I) and wheel wrench (H) as shown. 5-97 4. Insert the open end of the extension (F) through the hole in the rear bumper (G) (hoist shaft access hole). 5. Raise the tire part way upward. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel and is centered in the wheel opening. 6. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable. 7. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull (A), and then try to turn (B) the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable. 8. Reinstall the spare tire lock. 9. Close the hoist shaft access cover. 5-98 To store the tools, follow these steps: 1. Return the tools to the tool bag and place it back in the top-box storage unit. 2. Assemble the wheel blocks and jack together with the wing nut by reversing Step 2 under Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-81 3. Replace the jack cover and tighten the jack-cover wing nuts. Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully-inﬂated spare tire. A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inﬂation pressure regularly. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-34 for information regarding proper tire inﬂation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 5-86 and Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-95. Notice: different size spare tire is installed on the vehicle, do not drive in four-wheel drive until you can have your ﬂat tire repaired and/or replaced. You could damage the vehicle, and the repair costs would not be covered by your warranty. Never use four-wheel drive when the different size spare tire is installed on the vehicle. If the vehicle has four-wheel drive and the Your vehicle may have a different size spare tire than the road tires originally installed on your vehicle. This spare tire was developed for use on your vehicle, so it is all right to drive on it. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive and the different size spare tire is installed, keep the vehicle in two-wheel drive. After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inﬂated. Have the damaged or ﬂat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, the spare tire will be available in case you need it again. Do not mix tires and wheels of different sizes, because they will not ﬁt. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. If your vehicle has a spare tire that does not match your vehicle’s original road tires and wheels in size and type, do not include the spare in the tire rotation. 5-99 Appearance Care Interior Cleaning The vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on the upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from the upholstery. It is important to keep the upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. The vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to home furnishings may also transfer color to the vehicle’s interior. When cleaning the vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners speciﬁcally designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. Notice: Using abrasive cleaners when cleaning glass surfaces on the vehicle, could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on the vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in the vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning the vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening the vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles. Products that remove odors from the vehicle’s upholstery and clean the vehicle’s glass can be obtained from your dealer/retailer. Do not clean the vehicle using: (cid:129) A knife or any other sharp object to remove a soil from any interior surface. (cid:129) A stiff brush. It can cause damage to the vehicle’s interior surfaces. (cid:129) Heavy pressure or aggressive rubbing with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage the interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal. 5-100 Laundry detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers can leave residue that streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide. Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps. Too much cleaner that saturates the upholstery. (cid:129) Organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc. that can damage the vehicle’s interior. Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on ﬂoor carpet and carpeted ﬂoor mats. For any soil, always try to remove it ﬁrst with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques: For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed. For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible and then vacuum. To clean: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with water or club soda. 2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled. 4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the cleaning cloth remains clean. 5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild

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2009 Chevrolet Avalanche Owners Manual