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E-85 fuel and may harm your fuel system. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Do not use additives with E-85 fuel. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.


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Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


Filling Your Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). It will require more effort to turn the fuel cap on the last turn as you loosen it.


5-9


{CAUTION:


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


If your vehicle is a dual fuel tank chassis cab model, and it runs out of fuel, refuel the front fuel tank first to ensure a quick restart.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-99. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it to the right (clockwise) until it clicks. It will require more effort to turn the fuel cap on the last turn as you tighten it. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-39.


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{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-39.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


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Checking Things Under the Hood


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the handle located


inside the vehicle to the lower left of the steering wheel.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


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Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding


Vehicles without Body-Side Cladding


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push left on the secondary hood release, located under the front emblem for vehicles with gray body–side cladding or above the emblem for vehicles with no body–side cladding.


3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly.


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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the VORTEC™ 5300 V8 engine, here is what you will see:


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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.


B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Cooling


System on page 5-32 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-30.


C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.


D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-17.


E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-17.


F. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-25.


G. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (If Equipped). See


Cooling System on page 5-32.


H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump


Starting on page 5-45.


I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Out of View). See


Power Steering Fluid on page 5-38.


J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-45.


K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under


Brakes on page 5-41.


L. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-109.


M. Battery. See Battery on page 5-44. N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-40.


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When you open the hood on the VORTEC™ 8100 V8 engine, here is what you will see:


5-16


A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.


B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Cooling


System on page 5-32 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-30.


C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.


D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-17.


E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-25.


F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-17.


G. Engine-Driven Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on


page 5-32.


H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump


Starting on page 5-45.


I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-45.


J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-38.


K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under


Brakes on page 5-41.


L. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-109.


M. Battery. See Battery on page 5-44. N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-40.


Engine Oil If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see CHECK OIL LEVEL under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-49. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


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Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


8.1L Engine


All Other Engines


When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-114.


Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


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(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.


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When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.


5-20


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message, see “Engine Oil Life System” under DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-46 for vehicles equipped with the DIC, or do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly


three times within five seconds. If the OIL LIFE RESET message flashes for 10 seconds, the system is resetting.


3. Turn the key to LOCK. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. If it still does not reset, see your dealer for service.


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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter and the air filter restriction indicator, if equipped.


When to Inspect If your vehicle is equipped with an air filter restriction indicator, it lets you know when the engine air cleaner/ filter needs to be replaced. On vehicles with a restriction indicator, you should inspect the air filter restriction indicator at every oil change and replace the engine air cleaner/filter when the indicator tells you to. On vehicles without an air filter restriction indicator, inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.


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How to Inspect Vehicles with an Air Filter Restriction Indicator Locate the air filter restriction indicator on the engine air cleaner/filter cover. When the indicator turns black or is in the red/orange “change” zone, replace the filter and reset the indicator. See the steps following to replace the engine air cleaner/filter and to reset the air filter restriction indicator. Vehicles without an Air Filter Restriction Indicator To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the engine air cleaner/filter from the vehicle using the steps following. When you have the engine air cleaner/filter removed, lightly shake it to release loose dust and dirt. If the engine air cleaner/filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.


Replacing the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator


1. Locate the air cleaner/filter assembly on the front


corner of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.


2. Loosen the screws on the cover of the housing and


lift up the cover.


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{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


3. Remove the engine air cleaner/filter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.


4. Clean the engine air cleaner/filter sealing surfaces


and the housing.


5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 6. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. 7. Reset the air filter restriction indicator, if equipped,


by pressing the top button on the indicator.


5-24


Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:


In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.


(cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or


delivery service.


If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


(cid:127) While pulling a trailer.


5-25


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the


engine running.


(cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


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(cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The transmission dipstick handle with this graphic is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick


and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


(cid:127) How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill. Notice: Use of automatic transmission fluid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transmission fluid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification. (cid:127) After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check,” earlier in this section.


(cid:127) When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


5-27


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower


level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


Consistency of Readings Always check the fluid level at least twice using the procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper fluid level. If inconsistent readings persist, check the transmission breather hose to be sure it is clean and unclogged. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-30. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-28


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.


(cid:127) If you use the proper coolant, you do not


If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. Checking Coolant The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark.


If your vehicle is equipped with the LOW COOLANT LEVEL message and it comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant. See “LOW COOLANT LEVEL” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-49. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.


5-29


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.


If the pressure cap is not tightly


Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-37. In addition, you will find an ENGINE COOLANT HOT, ENGINE OVERHEATED and a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) on the instrument panel. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-49.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


5-30


If your engine catches fire because you


Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant condition, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-62.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the windows as necessary.


3. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);


otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving — DRIVE (D).


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle is equipped with an engine-driven cooling fan, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you are parked. If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle is equipped with an electric engine cooling fan, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


5-31


(cid:127) (cid:127) Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-17.


5-32


Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


5300 V8 Engine


A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (If Equipped)


8100 V8 Engine


A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine-Driven Cooling Fan


{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.


5-33


Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. If there seems to be no leak and your vehicle is equipped with an electric engine cooling fan, with the engine on check to see if the cooling fan is running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. If there seems to be no leak and your vehicle is equipped with an engine-driven cooling fan, start the engine again and see if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.


When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


5-34


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


5-35


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and


remove it.


3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture,


to the FULL COLD mark.


1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure


cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one full turn.


5-36


Engine Fan Noise If your vehicle is equipped with a clutched engine cooling fan, when the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages. If your vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans, you may hear the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is required. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, or if you are operating your air conditioning system, the fans change to high speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and indicates that the cooling system is functioning properly. The fans will change to low speed when additional cooling is no longer required.


5-37


4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start


the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


Power Steering Fluid


5300 V8 engine


8100 V8 engine


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


5-38


How to Check Power Steering Fluid


Locate the cap with this symbol. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.


To check the power steering fluid, do the following:


1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment


cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on


the dipstick.


The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


5-39


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Your vehicle has a low washer fluid message that comes on when the washer fluid is low. The message is displayed for 15 seconds at the start of each ignition cycle. When the LOW WASHER FLUID message is displayed, you will need to add washer fluid to the windshield washer fluid reservoir.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow


the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.


5-40


(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.


So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


5-41


Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.


Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


Look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.


After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.


5-42


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-95.


(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.


5-43


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for battery location.


Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-45 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-102.


5-44


Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


or ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


5-45


4. Open the hood and locate the positive (+) and


negative (−) terminal locations on the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located near the engine accessory drive bracket. On some vehicles, the terminal may be covered under a red plastic cover. To access the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover.


Vortec 8100 Engine


5-46


The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the engine accessory drive bracket and is marked “GND” for all Vortec 5300 engines. It is located on the thermostat housing and marked “GND” for all Vortec 8100 engines.


Vortec 5300 Engine


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


5-47


{CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive terminal (+) if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.


6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)


terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Your vehicle’s remote negative (−) terminal is marked GND. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for awhile.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


5-48


If the jumper cables are removed in the


Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote


Negative (−) Terminal


B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote


Negative (−) Terminals


C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover, if


equipped, to its original position.


Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.


5-49


What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Four-Wheel Drive Transfer Case It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to change the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


How to Check Lubricant


1500 Series shown, 2500 Series similar


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 2500 Series is from 0 to 1/2 inch (0 to 13 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.


5-50


How to Check Lubricant


Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant


1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add new fluid until the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the transfer case. To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.


3. Reinstall the filler plug. Use care not to overtighten


the filler plug.


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.


5-51


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant: (cid:127) When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant


to raise the level from 1/2 inch (12 mm) to about 5/8 inch (18 mm) below the filler plug hole for the 1500 series, and from 1/4 inch (6 mm) to about 3/8 inch (10 mm) below the filler plug hole for 2500 series.


(cid:127) When the differential is at operating temperature


(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.


Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-60. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


5-52


Headlamps Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding 1. Remove the turn


signal/parking lamp housing by pressing the release clip on the outboard side of the housing and pulling the outboard end of the housing toward you.


2. Pull the inboard side of the housing out from


the vehicle.


3. Pull the pins away from their clips and pull them up


until they completely release from the vehicle. 4. Pull the headlamp assembly out of the vehicle.


5-53


Vehicles without Body-Side Cladding


A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. High-Beam Headlamp


5. Turn the bulb connector counterclockwise and pull it


out of the housing.


6. Unplug the electrical connector from the old bulb. 7. Plug in the electrical connector to the new bulb. Use


care not to touch the new bulb with your bare hands or anything damp or oily.


8. Place the connector with the new bulb into the


headlamp housing and turn it clockwise until it is tight.


9. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle


and reinstall the two pins.


10. Place the inboard end of the turn signal/parking


lamp housing into the pocket.


11. Push the outboard side of the housing in until the


release clip snaps into place.


5-54


1. Remove the pin on the headlamp assembly by


turning the pin up and pulling it straight out.


2. Pull the headlamp assembly out.


Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding


A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. High-Beam Headlamp


3. Unplug the electrical connector. 4. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it


from the headlamp assembly.


5. Put the new bulb into the assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight. Use care not to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands.


6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.


Install the pin and turn it into the locking feature.


A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp


5-55


1. Remove the turn


signal/parking lamp housing by pressing the release clip on the outboard side of the housing and pulling the outboard end of the housing toward you.


Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime Running Lamps Vehicles without Body-Side Cladding


2. Pull the inboard side of the housing out from


the vehicle.


3. Press the locking release lever (the sidemarker


lamp does not have a locking release lever), turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal/parking lamp housing.


4. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 5. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. 6. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing and turn it clockwise until it locks (the sidemarker lamp does not lock into place).


7. Place the inboard end of the turn signal/parking


lamp housing into the pocket.


8. Push the outboard side of the housing in until the


release clip snaps into place.


5-56


A. Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) B. Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp C. Sidemarker Lamp 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as


mentioned previously.


2. Press the retainer clip (arrow), located behind the turn signal housing, towards the outside of the vehicle.


3. Pull the turn signal housing out from the vehicle.


5-57


4. Press the locking release lever (the sidemarker


lamp does not have a locking release lever), turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal housing.


5. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 6. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. Use care not


to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands.


7. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing and turn it clockwise until it locks (the sidemarker lamps does not lock into place).


8. Put the turn signal housing back onto the vehicle placing the hook and posts on the inner side into the alignment holes first and then the outer side into the retainer bracket. Push until you hear a click.


9. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.


Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding The DRLs are located in the front fascia near the foglamps. They can be identified by their square shape. 1. Reach under the front fascia and locate the DRL housing. Be sure you are not picking the foglamp housing, which is near the DRLs.


2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove


it from the DRL housing.


3. Pull out the old bulb from the socket and put a new


bulb in.


4. Place the bulb socket back into the DRL housing


and turn it clockwise until it is tight.


5-58


Taillamps


A. Stoplamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp


2. Remove the two rear


lamp assembly screws near the tailgate latch and pull out the lamp assembly.


To replace taillamp bulb, do the following:


1. Open the tailgate. See Tailgate on page 2-22 for


more information.


3. Press the release


tab and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp housing.


4. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket.


5-59


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is


facing away from the windshield.


5. Press a new bulb into the socket and turn the socket clockwise into the taillamp housing until it clicks.


6. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly and tighten


the screws.


7. Close the tailgate.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp


Bulb Number


Back-up Lamp Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Front Parking and Turn Signal Lamp Headlamps


High-Beam Low-Beam


Rear Marker/Turn Signal Lamp, Taillamp and Stoplamp Sidemarker Lamp *Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding


3157
4114K


3157A or 3457NA


*9011 or 9005


9006


3157


194


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.


5-60


{CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact —such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your


tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


5-61


2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly


toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.


3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.


Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire


(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


5-62


(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-73. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.


specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual configuration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46. (D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (E) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.


5-63


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire


(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC


Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


5-64


(A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the first two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75% as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


(F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kiloPascal (kPa).


Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.


Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.


Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.


Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67.


Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.


DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.


GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.


GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.


GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.


Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.


KiloPascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.


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Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.


Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.


Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.


Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.


Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.


Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.


Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.


Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.


Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.


Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.


Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.


Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.


Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.


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Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-71.


UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-73.


Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.


Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.


Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.


Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:


Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading


(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door lock post (striker). This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and their recommended cold tire inflation pressures. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the spare tire. For additional information regarding the spare tire, see Spare Tire on page 5-95. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).


Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Improved Ride with Light Load (2500 Series Vehicles Only)


{CAUTION:


Do not overload your vehicle or underinflate the tires. Overloading your vehicle or underinflating the tires can cause rapid loss of pressure and cause a serious crash. Only use reduced rear tire pressure when your vehicle meets the criteria for a light load.


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If you have a 2500 Series vehicle with LT245/75R16E size tires and you are operating your vehicle under light-load conditions, you can improve ride quality by adjusting both the front and rear cold tires to the recommended pressure shown on the Improved Ride label.


An example of the Improved Ride label is shown here. This label is attached to the lower section of the driver’s door edge, for 2500 Series vehicles only.


Operating your vehicle with a light load means:


The total weight of occupants in your vehicle is less than the total seating capacity number your vehicle was designed to carry multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). The total seating capacity number is on the Tire and Loading Information label.


(cid:127) No more than 200 lbs (91 kg) of cargo, which must


be secured in the cargo area.


(cid:127) No trailer is attached to your vehicle. (cid:127) You have not added any additional equipment to


your vehicle, like a truck cap or tool box.


The vehicle load capacity and the rear axle load capacity are reduced when the tire pressure is lowered to the amount recommended for improved ride. Before operating your vehicle with passengers or cargo greater than a light-load, you must inflate the rear tires to the recommended cold tire pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information Label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.


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(cid:127) Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-71 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-74 for more information.

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