1992 Nissan Pulsar N14 SSS  

o2sss

i have the vvl on a switch unfortunatly but i have a UNICHIP so seeing wat i can do with the 2 hook it up normally and more power/economical

El Pedro

Ok well let me know when you take it out. If done in the next two weeks I got $100 that says it won't run a 14.2 or better.

o2sss

probs not in 2weeks buy excdy hevy duty clutch 4 it but maybe i dunno yet

Beebs

He would be running the DE ecu with a solenoid switching device. Most likely a Greddy MSS or a couple of RPM switches.

And if you get the unichip tuned you should be able to run a high 13 providing you get a good launch.

Get some N1 cams in there + a tune and you'll enjoy it a whole lot more

o2sss

thanx mate anyidea how 2 wire it up got it out of a sr20de pulsar sooo :/ some info would be very aprshiated

02GZM

Explain how you have it running off a switch.... It's a hydraulically controlled actuator in the rocker arms. In the SR20VE ECU, as long as it detects sufficient oil pressure and temperature it'll let the solenoid engage the locking pin between the rockers. It'd also be running extremely lean on the more aggressive cam lobe as the SR20DE ECU wouldn't understand what's happening.

Are you trying to say that you manually press a button that supplies power to the pressure solenoid to lock the rocker arms? Cos that's just stupid and most likely bullshit.

o2sss

yes i am butt that is y i have the unichip i hate having it on a switch just want it 2 be normal but i am going 2 try with the unichip

Beebs

The standard DE ecu does not have inputs for the cam solenoids. So essentially the computer will drive the car on the low cam thinking that it is still a sr20de engine without the variable cams. The switches i am talking about are basically RPM activated switches.
So at the designated rpm, say 4.6 intake and 4.8 exhuast cam, the switch will trigger the solenoids which will then allow oil to pass through and into the rocker arms locking it onto the high cam. As the rpm comes back down through the revs the switch will deactivate each solenoid so that oil no longer passes through the rockers bringing back onto the low cam profile.

What kind of switch/switches are you currently running?

Jump on here for all your VVL info mate, there is a plethora of knowledge and information relating to your motor.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/

o2sss

lol off my air conditoining switch :/

Mhassar

nice pulsar, still ilegal for u to drive tho

Beebs

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/RPM/Ti...dow_Switch.aspx

Get one of these ^(MSD RPM Switch) or look around and find a Greddy Multi-Switching System. Good luck though because they no longer make them.
The issue with the MSD is that you will have to engage both cams at the same time. So essentially it will be like VTEC not VVL. With only one switch not 2. And im pretty sure a few are running with apexi Vafc but the same issue as the MSD is that you have to switch both cams together.
Use your current Unichip and get the car tuned as if it was a DE engine. Then when they tune the car they can externally (with your device) play around with the Cam solenoids to acheive better results. Alternatively you can buy a fully aftermarket standalone ecu like the EMS Stinger 4424, which is great bang for your buck and will allow the tuner to tune the car and have control over the VVL switching at the same time without having the hassle of using another device.

And as usual with any forum info, take what i said with a grain of salt.

Go on the SR20 forum (link is above) join up and start reading under the VVL sections and the DIY sections. Do your research and make decisions for yourself. I can assure you, the more you get to know about this motor the more you will enjoy it.

wheelzie1989

Needs a good tidy up!

Good engine though!

02GZM

What's the profile of the more agressive cam lobe like in comparrison to the standard lobe? Because engaging the switching solenoids through either a rpm switch or manually pressing a button is still not going to account for the increase in the volume of air. It sounds like he hasn't installed the Unichip ECU yet. So the standard ECU is going to continue fueling as if it was a standard SR20DE. Which will in turn cause it to run lean.
And if the Unichip ECU is installed and the fuel maps have been adjusted, not pressing the button at the right time (or at all) will cause the car to run excessively rich.

Piggyback ECU's are band-aid solutions. They'll mask slight irregularities or problems as they translate commands, not issue them. If you want the car to run properly and last a long time, either try and get hold of a SR20VE ECU or go the stand alone aftermarket ECU route.

sdf4lyfe

got two mates with boosted sr20dets and omg these are mean cars love the sr20ve they are ballsy cars

o2sss

ilegal how????

Beebs

Yes you are correct. And i agree with you 100%. Its pointless having a manual switch for the solenoids. Unichip + a switch thats been suggested and a tune will be fine for what you are after.
Cam Specs:

INTAKE
Low lift/low duration - 8.4mm/220 deg.
high lift/duration - 10.7/264 deg.

EXHAUST
low lift/duration - 6.6/244 deg.
High lift/duration - 10.34/268 deg.

So they are not overly huge, about the same as running Brian Crower stage 2's or a bit more than tomei poncams on a DE.
So it wouldn't be that bad on AFR's. Not ideal but still fairly safeish.

N1's are:
low intake - 8.4mm/220 deg
high intake - 12mm/288 deg

low exhaust - 7.95mm/244 deg
high exhaust - 11.9mm/288 deg

o2sss

^^^^^ good stuff^^^^^

Mhassar

ilegal in the way, yes its still sr20, but its not a factory motor that the n14 pulsar came out with, hense why a mod plate is needed. sr20de and the sr20ve are very similar motors but very different

Mhassar

to also be 100% legal with the engine conversion it also needs the breaks to be sufficant to stop the car, so ud need to upgrade the breaks, alot of people dont do this, thats to be 100% legal, whcih would involve a mode plate in itself

o2sss

looking at getting gtir brakes

Mhassar

you can avoid gettin a mod plate for it and drive it, but if a cop picks it up im sure ud get in trouble, i wouldnt know wat the fines are, anyone know?

o2sss

i have allready lost my license so yer but wasnt 4 speeding soo yer my dad and my bro just drive me around in it 4 now carnt wait 2 get it back sucks soooooooooooooo bad

Beebs

Go outside and look at your brakes now...let us know if they say ad22vf or ad18vf.
If you have 22's you already have GTiR brakes. The sss pulsars, NX-R and GTiR's all came with the 22's from factory.
These along with decent pads and rotors will provide PLENTY of stopping power.

As far as im aware only the LA code mode plate for engine modifaction* and swaps are illegal for P Platers. Brakes, seats, cages, suspension etc can be modplated and p platers can still drive the vehicle?

*Edit: modification

TwinCam16

That's actually a very valid point.

The engine code is SR20DE for the motor.

Emmissions rule aside, being that the SR20VE was not sold in this model, it actually requires a plate with the LA1 code, just for the motor alone.

Even still, illegal.

o2sss

there slotteded rotors on the front

o2sss

either way dont think they will pick up on it but if they dude then thats my problem

Mhassar

yeah im sure they're alowed most mod plates, cept for engine conversions and modifications, so the breaks and others should be ok. i was just explaining that for a correct engine conversion the breaks would need to be changed, most people would just take them off the half cut

Mhassar

still tho mate, very good starting point, the sr20ve and sr16ve are very good motors, maybe upgrade to the sr20vet when off the P's, they are just crazy engines for factory

o2sss

well yer i should really be doing brakes before wanting 2 go fast 2 make sure i can stop

TwinCam16

Correct.

The LAx codes are forbidden for p platers, brakes etc don't come under this group, thus legal.

TwinCam16

For what it's worth, the N14 calipers are shit!

Get the N15 SSS rotors and calipers (will bolt up to your hubs) they are the exact same as gtir ones.

Won't cost a whole lot and the difference is chalk and cheese.

Beebs

Check the brake 'Calipers' i should have said sorry.
The actual brakes not the rotors. It will be engraved on the back of the calipers. Either be AD22VF or AD18VF. Should be 22's being a sss.

And yes Mhassar thats correct. If it ends up actually being legal to do the conversion he would have needed to had the smaller brakes upgraded if they are 18's. Many people dont bother because they just buy a motor not a cut, then rush to finish it off and starting hooning around or going to the track only to realise they cant pull up at the other end.
As a wise man once told me, that your suspension, brake and tyre package should ALWAYS out perform the motor. If not then you will find yourself in all sorts.

Edit: As twincam said get n15 version's. Or poke around the SR20 forum in the brake section. Wilwood kits come up every now and then for pretty cheap. Plus they're strong enough to send your oculars flying out of your head just by looking at them.

o2sss

ill check in morning lol but can ashore it is a real sss says so on vin plate and i got all the standard seats and rims 2 it is a aus spec but i went through all the trouble putting in power windows and seats in :/

TwinCam16

Only the N15 SSS and gtir has the AD22VF calipers, the N14 sss had the smaller ones.

TwinCam16

BTW - it doesn't actually say on the vin if it's a SSS, Q or Ti