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Post #1
 9th August 2010 - 12:15 AM
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hey guys in the process of taking my turbo out (putting in a dump pipe so i though i'd have a squiz at the turbo) got everything undone except the water lines either side of the turbo they are on really tight and i can't shift them (was trying with a shifter tho cos i didn't have a 24mm spanner handy) whats the go with them? whats the best way of getting them off? and how tight should the turbo-manifold nuts be? cos mine were pretty easy to undo 
-------------------- My Cars
C34-S2 Stagea RS Four S - Factory Manual, Dayz bodykit, R34 Brakes and other stuff R31 Skyline - With Watanabe RS-8's |
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asterisk
Post #2
They dont need to be so tight you can't get them off... You obviously want them to be on tight, but not so tight you can't get them off with a socket. |
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) - 24mm sounds a bit too big too, I know mine were 14mm on my car, but obviously could be different for you. You might even be able to undo the bolt connecting the lines to the engine itself.
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iamhappy46
Post #3
24mm? Normally use a 16mm from memory. Be warned, they are common for corroding up due to the cyclic heat in that area, so they will be tight. |
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pipster11
Post #4
the dump bolts were in pretty tight so i had to use a bit of wd40/rp7 and go bit by bit (undo a bit, go back the other way, undo a bit more etc) |
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sweet_az
Post #5
QUOTE (pipster11 @ Aug 10 2010, 08:20 AM)  the dump bolts were in pretty tight so i had to use a bit of wd40/rp7 and go bit by bit (undo a bit, go back the other way, undo a bit more etc) the manifold-tubo bolts were pretty much finger tight (could have been the source of my whine under boost) the oil feed was tight but came out ok and the water lines on the side are as big as my ~250mm shifter goes too i should be able to borrow the spannar and i've wd40'd it so hopefully i have a bit more luck today how can you tell if you need to replace the gaskets? the dump gasket looks pretty much brand new but i guess the manifold one will look burnt and sooty if its been leaking? Mate i would be replacing the gaskets if its whining under boost cause normaly thats the manifold to turbo where it will whine better to do it now while its apart man and dont get cheap ones they arnt good been there done that lol. |
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the_random_hero
Post #6
Unless the gasket looks good, I'd replace it anyway (if you have some silver gasket goop you can smear a little bit of that on there and it will help an older gasket). |
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pipster11
Post #8
well i finally got it off 
off to get a new gasket and some motivation only thing is that the shaft turns smoothly but doesn't spin all that freely :/ also, how do i know if the wheels are metal or nylon or ceramic? |
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iamhappy46
Post #9
Is the compressor and turbine wheels bolted on both sides of the shaft? or is it 'bonded' on one side? |
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pipster11
Post #10
i'll have a look |
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pipster11
Post #11
looks like the turbine wheel is nylon (its black) 
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iamhappy46
Post #13
Nylex nut on the shaft, looks like a steel wheel on both sides though. I was 99% sure all R34 turbos were steel wheeled anyway QUOTE (pipster11 @ Aug 11 2010, 11:50 AM) there seems to be a good amount of oil in the front side of the turbo what would happen if it take of the front housing for a clean and try to put it back together? Mark the compressor cover location, unbolt the compressor cover from the six bolts and give it a clean. Make sure you lift the compressor cover staright up, dont wiggle it side to side! |
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Ceramic is where is actually a ceramic bonded wheel to the shaft 
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pipster11
Post #14
too late lol |
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