Hyundai Excel Racing Series - Track Attack - Evil things are about to happen to Hyundai Excels  

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nodrog
Post #701

This guy has some Silvia wheels for sale bluegtr2600

Here is his reply to my PM..
i think they are 15x6 maybe 6.5 2 have legal tyres 2 dont $100 for the set

Hope it helps someone.

Innuendo
Post #702

QUOTE (slow bus @ Mar 27 2010, 07:40 PM) *
That was from Tyre Zone at Capalaba, If someone asked Paul from option 1 nicely enough I sure he will do a good price for the group


Tyre Zone have got it wrong or they are costing themselves about $50 a tyre, I would suggest that price would be for a KU31 seeing as the KU36 doesn't come in that size.

wasas
Post #703

man.
THAT WAS SOO MUCH FUN! :P Circuit racing at QR today was fucking unreal. the reverse handicap start was sweet, if I didn't spin I would of been up there :P
Mixed drivers all day but QR national PB was a 1.40

PRO050
Post #704

QUOTE (wasas @ Mar 28 2010, 06:14 PM) *
man.
THAT WAS SOO MUCH FUN! :P Circuit racing at QR today was fucking unreal. the reverse handicap start was sweet, if I didn't spin I would of been up there :P
Mixed drivers all day but QR national PB was a 1.40

I was out there for the Saturday practice and had a ball, nice work getting out there and having a go.
Cheers Paul

zuboo
Post #705

i was at the sat practice as well busy morning, but came out for a look at top gear racing today, your a keen man racing a XL on your own, but when the rest come you will have a step up in experience before the rest.

gutless
Post #706

just starting my excel on its weight loss program this weekend so should be ready in about a month or so. all things going well :P

just a few questions that have come to mind

i used to race with cams and part of our safety requirements were to have a:
1 0.9kg fire extinguisher
2 proper tow points front and rear of the vehicle painted in contrast
3 blue or contrast battery triangle to mark battery position
4 battery isolator switch.

i know you guys are not running cams insurance predominantly but i would like to know if these things are recommended, required or not deemed as yet for this level of racing. thanks

also would like to say this is one of the best entry level circuit racing ideas ever. genius :bowdown:

and to all the pansies out there whinging about cost and affordability who said racing was cheap. this is as cheaper form of racing as you will find(used to spend 500 to 1000 between meets just on maintenance and upgrades and then race weekend was easily 700, and that was considered cheap). of course there will be rule changes the program is only kicking off and there is obviously quite competent people organising it so get over it. it is budget racing not centrelink sprints. at the end of the day if you cant afford to be competitive i guarantee you will still have a ball until you can afford it, and by then you will have some track time under your belt which is infinately more valuable than anything you can afford obviously :P

trackattack
Post #707

There are 3 levels of competition that we will be competing in with the Excels.

1 - Sprints
2 - Entry Level Topgear circuit racing
3 - Competitive level Qld Racing Drivers Championship

SPRINTS
For the sprints the only safety requirement is what is required in a normal road car, nothing extra.
See Here - http://www.trackattack.com.au/sprints

RACING
General requirements for racing see here -
http://www.trackattack.com.au/forms/circui...and_apparel.pdf

Scrutineering form see here -
http://www.trackattack.com.au/forms/circui...it%20racing.pdf

Topgear is aimed at having fun in a circuit racing setting.
So the safety requirements are relaxed compared to full on circuit racing.

You are required to have half roll cage with hoop above the driver
markings for tow points and battery isolator / position (which we sell for $20 a sheet)
proper race seat and harness
basic race suit (we will be importing some more soon)

QRDC is the next step up
At this level you require a full 6 point roll cage
double layer race suit
markings for tow points and battery position
etc etc etc - full racing safety requirements


At this early stage of the series we wont be running the QRDC events, but may do later if there is enough competitor interest.
We are running the full topgear series this year as well as all of the sprint rounds.

EXCEL SERIES FOR 2010

Qld Raceway Sprint Series
Lakeside Raceway Sprint Series
Carnell Raceway 1 Day Sprint Event (Easter Saturday)
Dirt Sprint Series at Willowbank Park Raceway
Topgear Racing Series at QR and LP

Cheers Jeff
Track Attack

trackattack
Post #708

QUOTE (wasas @ Mar 28 2010, 06:14 PM) *
man.
THAT WAS SOO MUCH FUN! :P Circuit racing at QR today was fucking unreal. the reverse handicap start was sweet, if I didn't spin I would of been up there :P
Mixed drivers all day but QR national PB was a 1.40


You guys did really well, and to have the hardened HQ guys coming over and showing an interest in your car really shows the level of cost is where it needs to be :P
Hopefully we can track down some video footage and photo's !

results on Natsoft - http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?28/03/2010.QR1

I reckon we might get 4 or 5 excels at the next circuit race meeting at Lakeside in May, should be a blast !

trackattack
Post #709

I am about to order in some new racewear, so now is you chance to get the colour you want in the size you want.

GLOVES - SFI – Nomex & Leather
Sizes: XS to 4XL
Price $120.00 – On Special $60.00

RACE SUITS SINGLE LAYER
SFI Fire Resistant Cotton
Price $300.00 – On Special $250.00

RACE SUITS DOUBLE LAYER
SFI Fire Resistant Cotton and Nomex
Price $500.00 – On Special $400.00

RACE SUITS SINGLE LAYER
SFI Double layer Nomex
Price $550.00 – On Special $450.00

Sizes: XS to 3XL

BOOTS - SFI – Nomex & Leather
Sizes: 36 to 47
Price $165.00 – On Special $80.00

NOMEX BALACLAVA SFI Nomex
Sizes: One Size fits All
Colours: White/Natural
Price $40.00 – On Special $35.00

NOMEX SOCKS SFI Nomex
Sizes: One Size fits All
Colours: Natural or Black
Price $40.00 – On Special $35.00

NOMEX UNDERWEAR SFI Nomex
Sizes: XS to 3XL
Colours: Natural or Black
Price $180.00 – On Special $150.00

wasas
Post #710

QUOTE (gutless @ Mar 29 2010, 02:51 AM) *
just starting my excel on its weight loss program this weekend so should be ready in about a month or so. all things going well :thumbsup:

just a few questions that have come to mind

i used to race with cams and part of our safety requirements were to have a:
1 0.9kg fire extinguisher
2 proper tow points front and rear of the vehicle painted in contrast
3 blue or contrast battery triangle to mark battery position
4 battery isolator switch.


some notes from our experience on setup, (as we had all the points listed above address..)
the tow points shouldn't be the std tie down points, you kinda need to look at proper tow points down the track.
the battery iso switch/rip cord never got a mention for us, even though its done.
the F/E was installed, kinda silly not to have one really.
our cage got some going over. thye didn't really like the idea of a 4pt, and seriously looking at it coming back home I'd wanna consider a 6pt sooner rather than later. :unsure:
secondary bonnet catch, :oopsie: still ran fine, guess they consider the stock 2 catch sufficient.



Jeff, The Old salts from QR (names illude me.. Keith + the other manager?) were talking about a tyre for a seriously good price when I had a chat to them. some yum cha brand they are importing but was <80 a corner.
might be worth a quick follow up.

Also your race gear IS FUCKING CHEAP. We just got a full kit and it was over $150 more, so its well worth it.

trackattack
Post #711

The Tyre is a "Talon" by Triangle Tyres (Nicknamed Golden Triangle)
I dont know much about them other than what the QR guys have told me.
It might be worth throwing some on a set of wheels and let a few guys run them and see how the feel.

slow bus
Post #712

QUOTE (trackattack @ Mar 29 2010, 08:04 AM) *
The Tyre is a "Talon" by Triangle Tyres (Nicknamed Golden Triangle)
I dont know much about them other than what the QR guys have told me.
It might be worth throwing some on a set of wheels and let a few guys run them and see how the feel.



What size do they come in? I have 15x7 and there is only about 6mm between the rear struts and the tyre with 195/50

trackattack
Post #713

SWAYBARS

Back onto the swaybars for a minute.
I need some idea of numbers to see if its worth doing a group buy and get whiteline to bring some more in.

Rear 18mm bar BHR45
Front 18mm bar BHR41

RRP $204.00 - GBP - $ 195 each

if nobody is interested thats cool, but i need to know if its worth pursuing on not.
cheers Jeff

NISMOgemini
Post #714

what offset are teh rims your using (the 15x7's)

QUOTE (slow bus @ Mar 29 2010, 09:23 AM) *
What size do they come in? I have 15x7 and there is only about 6mm between the rear struts and the tyre with 195/50

HRD-GTR
Post #715

I've got a set of standard S13 alloys. They're 15*6 +40 I think. $100 if anyone wants them. Have near new 205/60 tyres, but I'm sure the tyres will be too big for the Excels. You might be able to sell those on though.

trackattack
Post #716

The Excel racing is in the current Suburban Trader again ($2 at newsagents)
couple photos on the front page and a whole page story on page 29

gutless
Post #717

QUOTE (wasas @ Mar 29 2010, 07:46 AM) *
some notes from our experience on setup, (as we had all the points listed above address..)
the tow points shouldn't be the std tie down points, you kinda need to look at proper tow points down the track.
the battery iso switch/rip cord never got a mention for us, even though its done.
the F/E was installed, kinda silly not to have one really.
our cage got some going over. thye didn't really like the idea of a 4pt, and seriously looking at it coming back home I'd wanna consider a 6pt sooner rather than later. :unsure:
secondary bonnet catch, :oopsie: still ran fine, guess they consider the stock 2 catch sufficient.



Jeff, The Old salts from QR (names illude me.. Keith + the other manager?) were talking about a tyre for a seriously good price when I had a chat to them. some yum cha brand they are importing but was <80 a corner.
might be worth a quick follow up.

Also your race gear IS FUCKING CHEAP. We just got a full kit and it was over $150 more, so its well worth it.


thanks :thumbsup: was just wondering if i had to put these on the shopping list
dont really want to look like a nob just cause overlooked something.lol.

brendo12
Post #718

i am aiming to be ready for circuit racing by the beginning of may......theres a few of ya's that are obviously already setup.....what sorta numbers do we think will be ready around the late april through may stage???
im about to buy tires soon so just like the other guy said, if this season we do use a controlled tire hopefully we can sort it out in the next month or two...that way people that are building cars at the moment and in the near future will no what the go is. Either that or wait until next season, i dont really care...who is running a decent set at the moment and what are their opinions on which one is preferred??? it would be great if we were all spinning out on the same tire!!!

A fire extinguisher is a great idea, for the price of one you would be a fool to see your $1500.00 excel burn down lol

wasas
Post #719

QUOTE (brendo12 @ Mar 29 2010, 06:09 PM) *
i am aiming to be ready for circuit racing by the beginning of may......theres a few of ya's that are obviously already setup.....what sorta numbers do we think will be ready around the late april through may stage???
im about to buy tires soon so just like the other guy said, if this season we do use a controlled tire hopefully we can sort it out in the next month or two...that way people that are building cars at the moment and in the near future will no what the go is. Either that or wait until next season, i dont really care...who is running a decent set at the moment and what are their opinions on which one is preferred??? it would be great if we were all spinning out on the same tire!!!

A fire extinguisher is a great idea, for the price of one you would be a fool to see your $1500.00 excel burn down lol


if a control tyre comes in it'll be for circuit, and will be preferred for sprints. if you have rubber you can run it out first so dont hold back on buying some, the toyos jeff mentions are apparently pretty good, the KU36's are great value from option one. I was dealing with storm, make a mention its for the excel series and he should help u out a little :unsure: otherwise the achillies 123's are cheap, ratings vary. My advice, Contact Keith at QR or Jeff and try a set of the talons. they are 1/2 the price of every other bit of rubber we were looking at.

and I hate to break it to you but its no longer a $1500 excel hell car and tyres alone were more.. then you start with the cage seat springs sway... look at about 3k you have a competitive series racecar.

as for times, our first run out on lakeside was a 75. all of us had never driven the track before. I was squeeling the whole way round on the horrible 500TWR rubber. my team mate who drive smooth and has done lots of cams stuff in open wheelers ran the same time, so hes running a slightly better line but I'm pushing harder. rubber should be good for 4 seconds on lakeside. a stiffer chassis (eg a cage, bolt in for read legal, welded if your just going to tow it,) should be good for another 1. knowing the track should be good for about another 2-3. so in theory that puts us up around the 67-68 mark :thumbsup: which is where the front boys are with all of that. :oopsie:

still just go and have fun cause they are a hoot!

slow bus
Post #720

QUOTE (NISMOgemini @ Mar 29 2010, 01:20 PM) *
what offset are teh rims your using (the 15x7's)


They have 38 stamped on the back of them so assuming they are 38. It is the biggest rim you can fit under the guard of an excel, and I only paid $100 for the set, they are strainght balanced and no cracks

so using 4 of the QR "special" tyres, wheels and tyres will be under $500 :thumbsup:

I have pulled half a 20l bucket of sound deadener out already and still have the front to go, going to attack the doors and rear section with a grinder to pull out more weight, with a bit of work I think you can get them under 900kg including cage :oopsie:

MadXL
Post #721

hey all Excel Drivers, SWAY BARS
i have been in chats with jeff about the bars we can use as i already went out and got mine i have a nice new 18mm on the rear but was told by whiteline they only made a 22mm solid to replace the orig 22mm hollow front bar which they no longer make due to lack of sales(bad timing for them), and jeff is talking about staying with 18mm on the fronts as well, but i think there would not be any benifit, not that i think a supplier will make anything less than a 22mm sports bar, we need to know what others think and know about Excel front sway bar and do you want 22mm front solids or search for 18mm bars or stick with the standard.
Dave

trackattack
Post #722

i spy an excel

brendo12
Post #723

lol i was joking bout the 1500$ excel, mine owes me 3500 without cage and tyres, and doing everything myself at work....are we allowed to cut out the doors etc???a guy mentioned it before, doesnt the body have to stay original?

MadXL
Post #724

spec's are on trackattack.com.au

brendo12
Post #725

QUOTE (MadXL @ Mar 29 2010, 08:05 PM) *
spec's are on trackattack.com.au


was this answering my question?im confused, ive read the specs...body is to stay original? if this was aimed at something else, please disregard, cheers

trackattack
Post #726

At this stage the body and panels are to be unmodified.
If there is support I will look at permitting the removal of some material where a full 6 point cage with intrusion cars is installed
Its just not safe to remove metal from a car that hasn't been reinforced.

cheers Jeff

brendo12
Post #727

fair enough, keep the body's original, itl start with people cutting shit out of doors and boots etc, then people will be aloud f'glass bonnets and panels, it will never end...i hope the guy reads it before he fires his grinder up lol

wasas
Post #728

QUOTE (trackattack @ Mar 29 2010, 07:53 PM) *
i spy an excel



And a driver shitting himself as the 2 quickest cars were sideways coming onto the main straight. I swear my brand new suit smells funky.
from the drivers seat watching that v8 drift within 2 feet of the front bumper... man words escape me. I didn't know how much further out of the way way i could of gotten! :thumbsup:

MadXL
Post #729

QUOTE (wasas @ Mar 29 2010, 09:57 PM) *
And a driver shitting himself as the 2 quickest cars were sideways coming onto the main straight. I swear my brand new suit smells funky.
from the drivers seat watching that v8 drift within 2 feet of the front bumper... man words escape me. I didn't know how much further out of the way way i could of gotten! :thumbsup:



Game man, how did you compare to the field, mid field or slower? whats ya PB.
Dave

wasas
Post #730

slower.. well slower. Dougie in his EH was close, about 3 sec difference, had him in the corners but he'd just walk away on the straights.

But everything else there was out to compete. punch for punch (1500cc vs a 20b turbo/6l gen3 v8/400+ hp cosworth turbo/etc) i didn't think we went too bad. The handicap race at the end was much closer, even if I did get a 40 second head start for 3 laps....
that and we *just* made it to the servo afterwards. would of had 5km of fuel left. if there was a field of excels would there it would of been sooo much fun!

slow bus
Post #731

QUOTE (trackattack @ Mar 29 2010, 08:16 PM) *
At this stage the body and panels are to be unmodified.
If there is support I will look at permitting the removal of some material where a full 6 point cage with intrusion cars is installed
Its just not safe to remove metal from a car that hasn't been reinforced.

cheers Jeff


So the entire body is to be untouched both internal and exterior skins.

Are we making race cars or posers, 2 ways to make a race car go fast add more power or make it lighter, since we are capped on the power side of things if you want to go fast then it has to be more stripped down than Alfie Langer at the Normanby

trackattack
Post #732

I personally would like the rule to be
- that uncaged cars cant remove or modify any of the original metalwork.
- that 6 point fully caged cars with both side intrusion bars can remove non structural metalwork, but not alter the exterior panels.

Unless there is a huge backlash against this then I will probably instigate the above.
what do people think ?

wasas
Post #733

how much non structual metal work in in the body?!! I mean ours is empty...


QUOTE
- that uncaged cars cant remove or modify any of the original metalwork.
- that 6 point fully caged cars with both side intrusion bars can remove stock side intrusion bars.



I like this ^^

@SlowBus, they are never going to be that quick, but they are fun when your racing someone else while going at the same speed and hvae the same handling characteristics :thumbsup:

Marlin
Post #734

QUOTE (wasas @ Mar 30 2010, 09:10 AM) *
how much non structual metal work in in the body?!! I mean ours is empty...





I like this ^^

@SlowBus, they are never going to be that quick, but they are fun when your racing someone else while going at the same speed and hvae the same handling characteristics :thumbsup:

Gosh, I cannot agree more! Why spend heaps of time and money making them fast, or at least, faster, or, less slow :oopsie:? The aim of the series is CHEAP fun, not sub 60 Lakeside laps! Have ten of them running around together, door to door, evenly matched, THAT is the aim of the game. Get your heads around that and you'll have much more fun, not worrying about what demon tweak Billy Bloggs is doing to his between rounds.

slow bus
Post #735

Everything is always alot more fun when you are winning, and since most of the cars are running sprints it wont be door to door racing.

Removing some non essential sheet metal is not going to compromise the structural integrity of the car, I think there will be about 10kg to remove, maybe a little more if the intrusion bars are removed from the doors.

So where do we stop with weight reduction
Remove rear wiper and motor
Remove front wipers (use rainex)
Strip out non required wiring

Any other ideas?

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