Vl Problems Anyone Now There Vl's? - fartn n carryin on  

silvervx

sounds like crank angle sensor or afm. could just about put money on one of those two.

get those checked and go from there

.

HRTGuru

x2. I would say one of these will be the culprit. My VL used to do the same thing, but when I replaced the AFM it ran beautifully, and haven't had a problem since.

ADZcalais

hay bro when r u going to send me pics?

ChristosR33

Crank angle sensor craps out on them all the time dude.......their not too expensive to replace

46RLS

if it was crank angle senser it wouldnt run would it?

carlover333

sounds like an afm.
mine did that when i swapped from pod filter to a box cause the box had an afm with it.
idle'd really high and would pretty much hit a wall at 4000

Boostn Calais

I have done the same thing bought everything new and it was still getting worse !! I finally replaced the small ingnition module that is bolted to the side of the dizzy. I left that till last as they cost @ $170.00. Ran perfectly after that was changed.

lil_miz_vl

hey guys if it was the crank it would do it continuesly, i had same prob with my vl after u do all leads n shit n found it was juz the air pipe wasnt put back on tight enough or push in properly and it was sucking air n broke up under laod?slight bit of air n they wont run properly at all. worth a shot matey g/l with it

637-PSI

check for vacuum leaks also or air entering the intake after the afm

nera

cheers evry one will try all sugestions

ohsocute69

i no shit load about vls if it was crank angle sensor it would cut out completly

afm meter wouldnt let it do that either

i had a similar problem

changed all of the above ^^^^^^

and it was the wirring harness

driving with out load it was ok

accelarate and it would splutter really bad !

i changed ecu,s

afm by 3

crank angle sensor by 3

still had the same problem at the end wirring harness was shorting out as there old and they get brittle

joe blo

its a common mod for non turbo vls to advance the timing to 20 degrees instead of the standard 15 degrees. it changes where the powerband comes in or something and makes it hamma more. that might be what the guy had done and wasnt dodgy at all. need to run 98 octane fuel when you do that. but even if your running normal unleaded i dont believe this will make it run bad. it will junst ping when you cain it.


when the crank angle sensor plays up on them sometimes it will stuff up and not work again and sometimes it will play up every now and then. i forget the specific symptoms of the cas playing up and the air flow metre playing up. think they do similar things when there no good i think. haven thad a vl for a while so forget the stuff about them.


crank angle sensor will make it not start when it starts playing up and it wil just crank and wont start. sometimes it will start eventually if you keep trying and sometimes it will be dead and finished. or you might think its dead and try it a week later and itl be good again. for a bit. you change it as soon as it starts to play up so you dont get stranded.


the afm will make it idle bad and drive crap. i think thats the different symptoms for them both

iamhappy46

They do run, the signal from the tone wheel is degraded and causes the ECU to become confused as to which cylinder to fire the injectors for
I would say the crank angle sensor is faulty from the symptoms the OP describes.
To rule out the air flow meter, disconnect the plug on the AFM which allows the ECU to ignore the AFM signal and base idle mixtures off O2 sensor voltage. If the problem still occurs, the problem is not the AFM. I would be looking at the CAS next, then also look at the fuel pressure regulator to confirm fuel pressure at flow.



That ignition module can actually be rewired to run a much cheaper SR20DE module which is much more relianle(around $70 or less from a wrecker)

nera

still tryn no luck yet. i'll get it but like usual it'll always be somethin simple. cheers for the help so far any more suggestions?

Italia_85

did you replace fully C.A.S?? Bearing? Plugs kits?
And replace A.F.M ? Plugs?

does your oxygen sensor is good ?

ohsocute69

mate wirring harness

as stated i had the exact same problem as your describing these guys can guess

air flow meter will make your car run lean or chew more fuel, if ur motor isnt running it must have fallen off !

crank angle sensor will cut out ! when its hot , then when its cool it will start

fuel pump not working , car wont run

leads u have replaced ,

even if the timing is advanced the car will run fine (may ping) on high revs

options are ecu (water may have got onto the computer) and its affected the board inside

one other option as i said from the start wirring harness gets brittle causing it to short out and not relay the information back to the computer correctly .....

rb30 are very simple its ellimanation process you have done most of it already do the ecu quick change over !

i have one if your intersted to try (takes 3 minutes if that )

if not wirring harness

reallysadvitara

There is a a downloadable pdf Diagnostic Data sheet on the VL at the obd web site, it will allow you to read any stored faults codes that the ECU is seeing. This may be of assistance to you.

iamhappy46

I would be worried... really worried if that was the problem. have you actually seen the wiring schematic for the Vl and tried to work out how that occurs???

You are right though, the ECU is also common for getting wet due to a leaking L/H lower corner of the windscreen where they rust under the windscreen rubber and leak water directly onto the ECU

I have repaired enough VL's in 14 years to know that they can have the OP's problem with a variety of problems and yet, I have never had a wiring loom problem at the starter motor cause the problem.

iamhappy46

I would just extract codes from the ECU, I would also be checking to see if the ECU has water damage or even if someone has turned the ECU potentiometer to diagnostics mode

ohsocute69

do you really no that much about vls ??

the wirring harness is not the whole car ....

it is what runs from the ecu to the motor

easy to replace ....

and will not effect the running of the car even if the code was incorrect ..

what will happen if its stuffed the car will run in limp mode so it dosnet damage anything any further...OK HERE IS THE WAY TO CHECK AND ILLIMANATE PROBLEMS FOLLOW THIS AND YOU WILL BE ON YOUR WAY





1.) Remove the screw retaining the front left side kick panel and remove the panel

2.) Turn the diagnostic mode selector carefully, located above the LED's fully anticlockwise. go this gently
3.) Turn the ingnition switch to the ON position and ensure the LED's remain lit.

4.) Carefully turn the diagnostic mode selector fully clockwise.

5.) Start the engine and allow it to idle. By starting the engine the starter signal circuit is activated and the red and green LED's may begin to flash.

To indentify the code numbers count the number of flashes of the red and green LED's. The red LED represents 10 and the green LED represents 1. For example if the red LED flashes once and then the green LED flashes once that would indicate code number 11, which is the crank angle sensor circuit. If more then one fault is present then it will diplay them in numerical order with a pause between each one.

11:- Crank Angle Circuit
12:- Air Flow Meter Circuit
13:- Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit
14:- Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit
21:- Ignition Signal Circuit
23:- Throttle Switch Circuit
24:- Neutral Switch Circuit
31:- Satifactory Operation (non air-con vehicles) OR Air-conditioner Circuit
32:- Starter Singnal Circuit
34:- Detonation Sensor Circuit (turbo models)
44:- Satisfactory Operation (air-con vehicles)

*****If the engine can not be started, operate the starter motor for at least 2 seconds. This will activate the starter signal circuit and cancel code number 32. NOW PROCEED TO OPERATION NUMBER 8. *****

6.) Drive the vehicle at a speed greater then 10km/hr. Now this will activate the speed sensor circuit and cancel code number 14.

7.) Stop the engine and turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position.

8.) Depress and release the throttle pedal. This will activate the throttle switch and cancel code number 23.

9.) Move the transmission shift lever from neutral to any other gear and back to neutral. This will activate the neutral switch circuit and cancel code number 24.

10.) On vehicles equipped with air-con turn the air-con switch from "OFF" to "ON" and then "OFF" again. This will activate the air-con switch circuit and cancel code 31.

11.) Note the code/s displayed on the control unit.
If code number 31 for vehicles not equiped with air-con , or code number 44 for vehicles is displayed this indicates the system is functioning correctly and no faults have been detected.
To complete the self diagnostic test turn the self diagnostic selector fully anticlockwise and turn the ignition to the "OFF" position.

12.) If the control unit displays codes other than numbers 31 for non air-con equipped cars or 44 for for air-con equipped cars then refer to the fault code table above as earlier mentioned. If there is more then one fault then the codes will be displayed in numerical order and there will be a gap in each series of flashes.

TO ERASE THE ENGINE MANAGEMENT COMPUTER MEMORY

1.) Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
2.) Turn the diagnostic mode selector fully clockwise and leave for at least 5 seconds.
3.) Turn the diagnostic mode selector fully anticlockwise in that position for at least 5 seconds.
4.) Turn the ignition switch to the "OFF" position.

iamhappy46

According to your statement:

You have the ECU and starter motor wiring looms confused That is what I was refering to as when the wiring loom becomes brittle for the starter motor it WILL NOT affect the driveability of the car in any way the OP described or what you stated was the problem with your car.

Check the wiring loom schematic and tell me how a momentary contact relay will affect the ECU operation if the starter motor wiring loom is brittle, it could ground to earth and the ECU would still not be affected!

ohsocute69

did i say starter loom ???

i said wirring loom which was brittle

from the ecu to be exact and yes that can cause the ops problem