Will A Rb30 Non Turbo Motor Handel Big Hp?  

GTRwilson

try here mate, they would know a bit more:

http://calaisturbo.com.au

Ryan

I really like the N/A RB30s, but there's no way they'll make 400-600 hp @ the wheels. Even some old V8s struggle for that sort of power.

If for some reason they could, you would have to spend an absolute fortune whereas the turbo option would be alot cheaper, and you would see better results. The N/A RB30s are good for everyday use, and have acceptable power for a N/A 3 Litre 6, but a powerhouse they're not. IMO

wrench

This topic has been touched on here many times. I have actually converted a NA rb30 into a boosted one before and it isn't without trial and error. The major differences between the turbo and non turbo engines are as follows:
1. Na pistons are more or less flat tops, turbo ones are dished ( to lower compression ), stocko RB30ET pistons have a capacity of 13cc at TDC as compared to a NA which is 3cc.
2. Exhaust valves are different ( uses different metals to make higher temp turbo exhaust valves ).
3. Injectors aren't even close in performance, the NA ones are junk, turbo ones are good to about 18-20PSI max, ( turbo ones have brown tops, na ones are pink ).
4. RB30Et has oil injectors in the bottom end, RB30E doesn't ( local fitter machinist can put some in for you ).
5. Plenum chamber is different.
6. Computers are different but the NA computer can still run turbo injectors. ( will run a lot better with better computer though ).
7. VL turbo runs a stronger external fuel pump than the NA VL will have.
8. Both autos and manual gearboxes for VL turbo are different to the NA ones.
9. VL turbo has a far superior diff to the NA one.
Thats about all i can remember...
Building 400-600hp at the wheels though.. thats a different story. You would have to get the oil squirters put in. Forged internals, head work, cam, computer, injectors, descent turbo and manifold, descent intake and cooler and the list goes on.
Do have to remember that when the VL turbo came out it was only 150Kw ( 201hp ) at the fly, no cooler and running on 5psi.
No doubt the other guys on here will have some thoughts and ideas.

mongrel_cae71

there's nothing wrong with using a N/A rb30 to rebuild into a turbo monster, use a series 2 block though as they have the oil/water galleries tapped into the block for the turbo. Other than the compression ratio, there just as tough a turbo motor. Fit some aftermarket pistons and rods and you've solid base that should hold 400-500hp.

LOG-IN

build a 30/25 or even a 30/26 my mate built one and it is absolutely insane theres a few modifications to fit the head but its all on your side from there but you do have to back it up with gear box,diff,etc,etc.but definatly the way to go if you want insane power and nice torque.

mongrel_cae71

$100 for anybody that can give me a picture of any rb30(turbo or N/A) with factory oil squirters, I've never see one ever, so I call Bullshit.


Funny, the VL wagons have external fuel pumps, but they both(turbo and N/A) have the same part number.

09ONE

[quote name='mongrel_cae71' post='1284243016' date='Jun 24 2009, 06:15 PM']$100 for anybody that can give me a picture of any rb30(turbo or N/A) with factory oil squirters, I've never see one ever, so I call Bullshit.

They don't exsist.

Also no machinst is going to install a set of oil squirters for $100. It's almost impossible in the vast majority of RB30 blocks because of the main oil gallery where the squiters are fed from can't be tapped easily unless it was a really good cast from the factory, and in the end the oil squirters don't make that much of a difference (espically if you look at ceramic coated piston crowns etc)

mongrel_cae71

I didn't mean they can do it for $100, I was being a smart arse. I've never seen oil squirters in a RB30. It's just BS that someone started spreading on the net, so every other parrot repeats it as gospel.
But as you mentioned, fitting is difficult, the pistons have to be custom made for the skirt to clear the squirter and to deflect the oil under and across the bottom of the piston crown, and it's better to ceramic insulate the crown surface rather than cook your oil trying to cool it.

commodore87

yeah i was just askin because i have a NA motor but everything is going 2 be new there wont be an old part in it and just want 2 know about the block and the head and if it would b strong enuff for the boost i want 2 put threw it

commodore87

or would it be better for me to find a turbo motor

mongrel_cae71

definitely use the N/A and work it, there is no benefit wasting money buying a turbo engine

commodore87

ok cheers

wrench

well I have seen oil squirters in a rb30ET, a fitter machinist mate of mine said he can put them in but it is not really worth it unless you are going for over 20PSI.

commodore87

well i am looking for about 25psi ro more so yeah i might look into it

mongrel_cae71

it's a waste of time and money, I wouldn't use them at all.

Most people that build turbo charged engines for race/high hp output will remove squirters off engines that come with them from factory. In standard motors, the theory is there, but for any other application, the cons out way the pros of oil squirters, there are better ways of keeping piston crown temps down.

commodore87

yeah cheers mate