#1
20th May 2012 - 01:03 AM
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CAN ANYONE POST WEBSITES OR SHOPS WHICH SELL GOOD BUICK V6 PERFORMANCE MODS, LIKE STROKER KIT, ETC
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Joyrid3r
Post #4
CAN ANYONE POST WEBSITES OR SHOPS WHICH SELL GOOD BUICK V6 PERFORMANCE MODS, LIKE STROKER KIT, ETC http://www.boostcruising.com.au/forums/ind...=814967&hl= Assuming you're after parts for this car...isn't it already stroked?? Id be looking at turbo kits rather than the strocker kits, will only make 170-180rwkw max with a strocker. Or even ls1, 1/2j conversion http://www.boostcruising.com.au/forums/ind...mp;p=1288194790 |
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oovro
Post #9
As someone that knows the V6 Buick engines quite well i can answer your questions and let you know what the best approach is for your build. |
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DUDEY99
Post #10
As someone that knows the V6 Buick engines quite well i can answer your questions and let you know what the best approach is for your build. I built probably one of if not the most modified and built V6 Buick engine in Australia. And no im not blowing my own horn. If your on the Street Commodores forum you should know my old VR Calais ex-feature car with the nitrous ready 4.3L turbo'd stroker setup. On a 13pound tune using the factory Delco computer and a chip it had 344rwhp with 1200Nm of torque on what could have been a better tune. I had planned to take it to Paramount Performance in Towoomba before i sold it to get the boys to do a Kalmaker tune upping the boost to 20pound which would have seen numbers around the 450-500rwhp mark which isn't too bad for a Holden V6. Then i planned on ramming a 150 shot of giggle gas down it's throat which would have probably been an over kill. But i did built the engine to handle 20 pound and a 150 shot of gas comfortably without damaging the engine. I'll let you know right now, it won't be cheap to build a respectable HP V6 engine that will also be reliable. I put best of everything into my engine and spared no expence when building it. Im not saying thats what you have to do but it does help not to have a budget when building cars. Just to give you an idea, the conrods and pistons alone were over $4000. You don't have to ge to that extreme but the cost of the build and the parts needed will depend on what you want to achieve. You can use cheaper performance parts like spool rods and something like Wiseco or Diamond Racing Pistons which will serve your purpose in both NA and forced induction. In both apps i would use forged and ceramic or diamond coated pistons just incase you want to add a turbo or supercharger later on down the track. Building a NA V6 or V6 stroker is in my opinion a waste of time if your going for power. There's not a huge power increase in NA V6's unless you add a shot of gas to it. There are ways to get decent power figures going NA but once again the costs go up. To give you an idea this is a list of what i did and had in my engine. ENGINE MODS: 4.3L Bradey Stroker crank (balanced) JE Racing forged and ceramic coated pistons 8.0:1 compression ratio (balanced) ACL Race Series piston rings ACL Race Series big end and mains bearings ACL Race Series cam bearings Custom made Billet steel "I" beam conrods (balanced) Trend 1 peice crome molly pushrods Yella Terra roller rockers Block acid dipped, bored, decked and crack tested. Chanels shaved on the inside of engine block to allow conrods to clear the block and bore due to stroker crank. MLS headgaskets (for turbo and supercharger applications) Crowcam stage 3 cam and valve springs to match Heads decked, ported and polished and fully rebuilt Ported inlet manifold to match porting on the heads. Double row Rollmaster timing chain Bosch super6 injectors (bigger needed if adding more boost if your running a turbo) Bigger throttle body T70 turbo Turbosmart wastegate Blow off valve GFB's boost controller Custom turbo manifolds and dump pipe which were HPC'd (this was done by Reece at HPC in Brendale QLD) Intercooler pipes 600x300x76 Delta fin Intercooler Speedflow braided hoses and fittings. Custom fabricated oil catch can Polished Killkenny rocker covers 2 bar map sensor Turbo beanie Chiptorque chip and tune All balancing done to race specs or higher (this was also done by Reece from HPC who also does engine balancing) Another thing you will have to consider is the running gear. I used a 4L60E behind the engine which was built using the best parts avalable to make it as strong as it could be. There's no way that a standard auto will hold up for very long if putting power to it. The gearbox cost me around the $6000 mark to have built. There's also the diff, in my case i ran a 3.89 mini spool which did the job and it only cost $650. You will also need a decent exhaust system for it. As you can see there is alot to consider when building an engine. Parts and generally alot of money is also involved in building a strong V6 Buick engine. You don't need to go to the extreme like i did but it will still cost you a nice stack of cash even to do a cheap build with all the other things you need to add. If you want send me a PM with what your wanting to achive and what you want to spend and i'll see if i can work out what the best mods are for your V6. Regards, Troy aka 00VRO Yes I have seen you car before in street commodores, do you know what your engine puts out At the rear wheels without the turbo? I'm trying to achieve a NA v6 to be putting over 180rwkw |
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vy57ss
Post #12
I think it was around 200hp at the wheels. To get to 180kw at the wheels is going to cost you abit but it can be done. Really need boost or nos to go anywhere, pretty sure ive seen a couple in the 170rwkw region, proflow fabrications made 275rwkw on a mild standard stroke ecotec, maybe look into there kits if they make a buick version. |
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38.NOT
Post #14
after hearing oovro comments its put a dampener on my build. Ive been saving up and planning on putting a 4.3 stroker kit with a charger on my buick v6 just to be different from the amount of v8's i see daily and still have capable of holding its own against some of them. |
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vy57ss
Post #16
There's a 4.2l raptor blown vn forsale, the blue one that was featured in street commodores, it's forsale for a good price atm, buy it for the driveline n part or use the rest, or sell your car, pretty hard to justify that money spent seaming your not going to get huge gains, if you want to be different what about a 1/2j, or turbo 5L? Been done before but not super common |
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vk134
Post #19
after hearing oovro comments its put a dampener on my build. Ive been saving up and planning on putting a 4.3 stroker kit with a charger on my buick v6 just to be different from the amount of v8's i see daily and still have capable of holding its own against some of them. The stroker kit im looking at costs $7500 coming with billet crank and rods with diamond forged pistons which price wise shocked me for a v6. Also for the charger and inter cooler (under bonnet) another $4800. These seems like a lot of money to spend to get under 200kw at the wheels........ The question now is should or shouldnt i????? I guess the answer would be what would it be able to be sold for when it comes to sell it, I would be surprised if it got any more than the equivalent V8 model, a shed load of cash for " just to be different from the amount of v8's i see daily ", it come down to bang for buck, a 2jz front cut or rb 26/30 TT would be difference, but have more power and cost less. If you want performance value, you cannot beat a LS1 manual, I see them going from $2.5 to $4k nowdays, just your time with fabrication and fitment. Prices like $7500 for crank, rods and pistons is just crazy money, i'm not sure how many fanboys are out there who would have parted with that sort of $$ |
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